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#1
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![]() Awww, going to check the mailbox...
Nope, still empty. And it's frigging -15°C outside! |
#2
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![]() I would wait for it to turn up; it is a 5 page article with 32 pictures.
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Sent from my iPad, from who knows where in the world I was building but I am not now! ![]() Build Pictures Build Thread |
#3
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![]() OK, the exact chemistry is a mystery even to specialists, here's an article about it: http://www.holzwerken.de/museum/link...lanation.phtml
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#4
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![]() There was an article some time back explaining why one should not use stainless. link (about 4 posts down)
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Regards (The mad Sarf Efriken) Last edited by Land Locked : 22nd December 2009 at 05:59 AM. |
#5
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![]() I did my sierra front and rear hubs, and have just done all four calipers - it's brilliant and will send you looking for more rusty stuff to do!
If you can, I would use a sheet of mld steel rather than strip, as you will get quicker results. The great thing is the process won't attack good metal, so bearing surfaces etc are unaffected Cheers Adrian |
#6
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![]() Cheers,
Hubs here we come !! Peter |
#7
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![]() Hi all one thought on drusting parts ,if you know any one with a saftykleen degreaser,they do a liquid derusting soloutin which we tested for them at work,i thought it was going to be a gimmick, but it was brilliant and did what it said on the tin all you do is drop the part into the solution and leave it do its stuff .
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#8
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![]() Yep, it does not etch rust and metal, it reduces rust to metal.
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#9
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![]() Has anyone got a list of things you need for electrolysis? I'm trying to find a list and a guide but i can't seem to find one.
Also does it damage rubber seals etc? Finally what parts am i allowed to do? I know not to do disc brakes or the flywheel as they could suffer from hydrogenation (i think) and become brittle and shatter ![]()
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1.8 Silvertop Zetec (ZX6R Carbs + Megajolt) + Type 9 My Build Blog: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=2736 - Last Update: 31st October 2020 Total Spent so far: Stopped counting ![]() |
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