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#1
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![]() Thank's for all the replies to my OP.
I think I knew the answer all along. I guess I was just hoping someone would dissuade me from the obvious ![]() As for the rear bracket. When I first put it together, it just seemed the right thing to do. I put on the Sierra rear bracket, and it fell right into place of RS6. So I bolted up a plate to the diff bracket, and welded it in place.
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. . David. Heaven, Warm days and Cool rides ![]() |
#2
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![]() That's a very good idea with the 3rd bracket for the diff David, it now looks much more secure and is fitted the way it was designed. We're also (some of us
![]() I'm about to upgrade to an LSD and will be adding the 3rd support during the upgrade.. AndyH
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Haynes Roadster / Saturn GRP Bodywork. Now available direct through http://www.gillhamonline.co.uk/ or contact me direct on andrew.hugill@ntlworld.com Regards..........AndyH |
#3
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![]() See, I do have some good ideas......
![]() It's a shame they get lost in all the rubbish ideas I have ![]()
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. . David. Heaven, Warm days and Cool rides ![]() |
#4
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![]() As I'm fitting a 2.9 Cosworth with ITBs and Emerald management along with a LSD Granada diff I've fitted the rear mount too. Mine is a bit different to all yours 'cos its a Locust rebuild but it seemed to make sense with the potential of around 200 ft/lbs of torque from the engine. By the time this gets to the diff it could be significantly more in the lower gears so the stronger its mounted the better in my book. Admittedly as the diff is solid mounted and this mounting has a big flexible rubber bit in it I doubt if it will make a huge difference but if one or more of the other mounting points breaks away it might just prevent total carnage at the rear.
D.
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visit my website at www.cossie.davenewell.co.uk |
#5
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![]() Chassis plates CP10's now replaced with 5mm ones.
Wasn't as bad to cut out the old ones as I thought. ![]() NOW I can start painting...........I hope. Sick to death of bl***y welding.
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. . David. Heaven, Warm days and Cool rides ![]() |
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