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#1
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#2
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![]() looking good that. what thickness plate are you going to use? i would think the top one needs to be substantially thicker with a tapered hole for the ball joint to seat into.
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#3
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![]() Looks much like I have done/planning to do. Check position of top upright link relative to the Ford one to make sure suspention geomitry is right. Also, as Ash points out, thicken up the top plate of upright.
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#4
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![]() was also thinking it may be worth putting the top bolt through from the inside to out then welding the bolt to the plate and having the nut on the outside. that way you could then box it in and have a small access hole for the bottom bolt.
bonus is that it wouldn't add much weight and it would make it a lot stronger. |
#5
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![]() something like this sorry for the crude drawing have only got ms paint on this pc
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#6
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![]() Last edited by fabrun : 5th March 2010 at 02:47 PM. |
#7
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![]() what about, 5mm for the thickness of the plate
the top one is doubled good idea ashg i will draw it |
#8
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![]() you will need to measure the depth of the taper on the ball joint but i think it is about 15mm so you will want about 15mm plate for the top bit. 5mm plate will be fine for the rest.
look at the thickness of the bit on the hub where the bottom ball joint goes for reference on thickness. i would suspect it needs to be about the same. |
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