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  #1  
Old 9th October 2010, 05:29 PM
Enoch Enoch is offline
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Doooohhh! Wish I had thought of doing that!!
I was a bit concerned about how low my pipe was, with a very tight curve it is ok but your idea is a damn fine one. Very well executed too.
Enoch
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Old 9th October 2010, 07:36 PM
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nice bit of welding that ronnie. not bad for a half blind old codger did you get one of those esab auto masks in the end?

one thing i would say is check the pivot of the push rod, as now the cylinder is angled up, it wont be travelling in a straight line which could frag the seals pretty quickly.
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Old 9th October 2010, 08:02 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Nice work Ronnie

As you have given thought to air in the system, where abouts are you putting the brake light pressure switch? only reason I ask is due to, my system got air in the pressure switch (Which gave for a lazy brake light activation) & was a bu@@er to get out, tilting it solved the problem

Its great to see your build is progressing more & more each day

cheers
andy
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Old 9th October 2010, 08:03 PM
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Cheers Ash

Yes I did buy one of those screens mate, it made a whole world of difference & has a very low minimum shade setting, Ideal for using the TIG welder

I think the biggest thing I found, was using my reading glasses whilst welding .... Stands to reason really, if I need em for reading, probably need em for welding too & hey presto, who turned the lights on

Good call with the pedal pivot point mate.
When I first fitted the cylinder ( As per book ), I had to drill another hole further up the pedal because as you say, it was snagging as the pedal was pushed in.
After my little mod, I am now able to use the original hole & the pedal now feels really smoothe.
I will check the continuity of the braking system before it is used in anger
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Old 9th October 2010, 08:14 PM
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Hi Andy

Yes I have a hydraulic brake switch & I am minded to fit it upside down as per Paul's sugestion ( If I can )

That said, I am still going to chew on the idea of fitting an electrical brake light switch .... I dare say that will involve a few days of head & ball scratching

Feels really great to be out in the workshop once more .... Long may it last
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Old 9th October 2010, 10:35 PM
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Another small thought, a couple of Nyloc nuts on the master cylinder retaining bolts might keep Mr IVA happy love the mod, im thinking of doing the same thing now myself.
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Old 10th October 2010, 08:38 AM
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The pedal box is very much a job still in progress, needing to sort out the clutch & throttle cable fittings.

Forgot to mention that the plate I made for that mod has 2 captive studs welded to the reverse side ( 8.8 set bolts )


I'll be using flat washers/nylocs throughout the build & loctite on anything captive

Now here's a little thing I personally like to do for peace of mind.

When it comes to final assembly, in particular, fixings.
Personally, I like to put a small dab of paint on any fixings that have just had it's final tighening.
I use Blue for anything that has been loctited & yellow for anything else

Silly I know but if it is done at the time of final tightening of each fixing it will give you a visual indication of any fixing that may of been overlooked
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Old 10th October 2010, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonzo View Post

Now here's a little thing I personally like to do for peace of mind.

When it comes to final assembly, in particular, fixings.
Personally, I like to put a small dab of paint on any fixings that have just had it's final tighening.
I use Blue for anything that has been loctited & yellow for anything else

Silly I know but if it is done at the time of final tightening of each fixing it will give you a visual indication of any fixing that may of been overlooked
I think this is a great idea

Coupled with Nylocs, this attention to detail I,m sure would impress Mr IVA man,

Hope you don,t mind Ronnie, but think I,ll go & buy 2 little tins of model makers paint in blue & yellow

cheers
andy
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