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#1
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![]() Doooohhh! Wish I had thought of doing that!!
I was a bit concerned about how low my pipe was, with a very tight curve it is ok but your idea is a damn fine one. Very well executed too. Enoch |
#2
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![]() nice bit of welding that ronnie. not bad for a half blind old codger
![]() one thing i would say is check the pivot of the push rod, as now the cylinder is angled up, it wont be travelling in a straight line which could frag the seals pretty quickly.
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My Roadster Is Finished NerNer....... Pigs can fly, you just have to carry them onto the plane. My Pictures http://s707.photobucket.com/user/ashgardiner/profile/ |
#3
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![]() Nice work Ronnie
![]() As you have given thought to air in the system, where abouts are you putting the brake light pressure switch? only reason I ask is due to, my system got air in the pressure switch (Which gave for a lazy brake light activation) & was a bu@@er to get out, tilting it solved the problem ![]() ![]() Its great to see your build is progressing more & more each day ![]() cheers andy |
#4
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![]() Cheers Ash
![]() Yes I did buy one of those screens mate, it made a whole world of difference & has a very low minimum shade setting, Ideal for using the TIG welder ![]() I think the biggest thing I found, was using my reading glasses whilst welding .... Stands to reason really, if I need em for reading, probably need em for welding too & hey presto, who turned the lights on ![]() Good call with the pedal pivot point mate. When I first fitted the cylinder ( As per book ), I had to drill another hole further up the pedal because as you say, it was snagging as the pedal was pushed in. After my little mod, I am now able to use the original hole & the pedal now feels really smoothe. I will check the continuity of the braking system before it is used in anger ![]()
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie ![]() www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#5
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![]() Hi Andy
Yes I have a hydraulic brake switch & I am minded to fit it upside down as per Paul's sugestion ![]() That said, I am still going to chew on the idea of fitting an electrical brake light switch .... I dare say that will involve a few days of head & ball scratching ![]() ![]() Feels really great to be out in the workshop once more .... Long may it last ![]()
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie ![]() www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#6
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![]() Another small thought, a couple of Nyloc nuts on the master cylinder retaining bolts might keep Mr IVA happy love the mod, im thinking of doing the same thing now myself.
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They say obsession will mess with my brain..... But I love the feeling of going insane.... Roadster No 2 build Cost to Date : £93 ** New Blog @ http://carlsroadster2.blogspot.com ** |
#7
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![]() The pedal box is very much a job still in progress, needing to sort out the clutch & throttle cable fittings.
Forgot to mention that the plate I made for that mod has 2 captive studs welded to the reverse side ( 8.8 set bolts ) I'll be using flat washers/nylocs throughout the build & loctite on anything captive ![]() Now here's a little thing I personally like to do for peace of mind. When it comes to final assembly, in particular, fixings. Personally, I like to put a small dab of paint on any fixings that have just had it's final tighening. I use Blue for anything that has been loctited & yellow for anything else ![]() Silly I know but if it is done at the time of final tightening of each fixing it will give you a visual indication of any fixing that may of been overlooked ![]()
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie ![]() www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#8
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![]() Quote:
![]() Coupled with Nylocs, this attention to detail I,m sure would impress Mr IVA man, Hope you don,t mind Ronnie, but think I,ll go & buy 2 little tins of model makers paint in blue & yellow ![]() cheers andy |
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