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#1
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![]() Cheers Ash
![]() Yes I did buy one of those screens mate, it made a whole world of difference & has a very low minimum shade setting, Ideal for using the TIG welder ![]() I think the biggest thing I found, was using my reading glasses whilst welding .... Stands to reason really, if I need em for reading, probably need em for welding too & hey presto, who turned the lights on ![]() Good call with the pedal pivot point mate. When I first fitted the cylinder ( As per book ), I had to drill another hole further up the pedal because as you say, it was snagging as the pedal was pushed in. After my little mod, I am now able to use the original hole & the pedal now feels really smoothe. I will check the continuity of the braking system before it is used in anger ![]()
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie ![]() www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#2
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![]() Hi Andy
Yes I have a hydraulic brake switch & I am minded to fit it upside down as per Paul's sugestion ![]() That said, I am still going to chew on the idea of fitting an electrical brake light switch .... I dare say that will involve a few days of head & ball scratching ![]() ![]() Feels really great to be out in the workshop once more .... Long may it last ![]()
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie ![]() www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#3
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![]() Another small thought, a couple of Nyloc nuts on the master cylinder retaining bolts might keep Mr IVA happy love the mod, im thinking of doing the same thing now myself.
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They say obsession will mess with my brain..... But I love the feeling of going insane.... Roadster No 2 build Cost to Date : £93 ** New Blog @ http://carlsroadster2.blogspot.com ** |
#4
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![]() The pedal box is very much a job still in progress, needing to sort out the clutch & throttle cable fittings.
Forgot to mention that the plate I made for that mod has 2 captive studs welded to the reverse side ( 8.8 set bolts ) I'll be using flat washers/nylocs throughout the build & loctite on anything captive ![]() Now here's a little thing I personally like to do for peace of mind. When it comes to final assembly, in particular, fixings. Personally, I like to put a small dab of paint on any fixings that have just had it's final tighening. I use Blue for anything that has been loctited & yellow for anything else ![]() Silly I know but if it is done at the time of final tightening of each fixing it will give you a visual indication of any fixing that may of been overlooked ![]()
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie ![]() www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#5
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![]() Quote:
![]() Coupled with Nylocs, this attention to detail I,m sure would impress Mr IVA man, Hope you don,t mind Ronnie, but think I,ll go & buy 2 little tins of model makers paint in blue & yellow ![]() cheers andy |
#6
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![]() great Ideal, i never thoguht to use to colors ive always used tippex sounds good tho
__________________
They say obsession will mess with my brain..... But I love the feeling of going insane.... Roadster No 2 build Cost to Date : £93 ** New Blog @ http://carlsroadster2.blogspot.com ** |
#7
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![]() That's a great idea Bonzo, we use the same thing in the Aerospace world. The name escapes me, but it's something like proof paint or something similar, and we put a line of it across the nut, surface and bolt, to prove that not only has the fastening been tightened (to torque usually), but also that it has not moved in use (by vibrations etc).
Definitely a good thing for piece of mind! |
#8
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![]() we use paint pens at work for marking off safety critical fixings and earth connections blue yellow white
edding paint markers ![]()
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theres a box ! im not allowed in it ! i have to think outside ! ![]() |
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