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Old 30th November 2010, 10:46 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AshG View Post
i have got a 19mm single piece shaft on mine as i didnt fancy a cut and shut job for the exact reason you mention.
Ash has gone about it slightly different from me ,

I used the available materials I had to hand to complete the job, this is just the way I did it, tho its not the "only" way .

But, i would like to say that by using a Group 4 coupling at the rack end & making use of the original part that has the original rubber coupling,( which i cut in half & placed up the top near CP16), allows me to remove the extension quite easily by unbolting just 2 bolts without the need to unbolt the group 4 coupling from the rack.

We all have our "own take" on how to achieve the task

cheers
andy
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Old 30th November 2010, 11:41 PM
Andy_B Andy_B is offline
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jeeesus that looks bloody close !!! i will order a grp4 Joint and take a few pics..i had a thought that the engine mount would be easier to re fabricate if it gets in the way of the steering shaft...so i would do the shaft first...possibly a good call !!
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Old 1st December 2010, 07:16 AM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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The photos are a little deceiving, there is quite alot of clearance as the shaft passes the engine mount & "U2".
Tho , yes it was well worth it fabricating a new engine mount rather than use the original Ford item.

cheers
andy
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Old 1st December 2010, 11:00 AM
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spud69 spud69 is offline
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It does go Andy, tis just very tight. Also make sure you weld the extension piece in nice and straight so that it doesn't turn eccentrically and hit the upright.

Andrew
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  #5  
Old 5th December 2010, 07:40 PM
Spikehaus Spikehaus is offline
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I was unhappy with the clearance against the front upright, even after maching it on the lathe, due to deflection of the shaft. I re-manufactured mine today with an additional group 4 coupling and escort splined shaft. All I need to do now is secure a rose joints to support the shaft. (Note: I used the XR4x4 steering shaft the the top coupling is larger than usual. This is a slightly more expensive option, but I think it will be worth it. (Larger photos availible on my Flicker build Diary) It may be possible to adjust the rack mounting slightly to gain an additional 1 mm.

Last edited by Spikehaus : 7th January 2012 at 08:14 AM.
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