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  #1  
Old 9th January 2011, 08:48 PM
shaun shaun is offline
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I think it's the weather, haha
we might have to set up a roadster club in the south.....
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  #2  
Old 15th January 2011, 04:22 PM
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brainbug007 brainbug007 is offline
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I'm working on this bit as well at the moment but I'm a little confused by the top part of the frame. It looks like RS7 & a should go underneath the cross rail on the seat back section but it looks like there will be a small "wedge" of space between RS7 & a and the seat back rail? Is that right or have I messed up an angle somewhere??
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Old 15th January 2011, 05:17 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainbug007 View Post
I'm working on this bit as well at the moment but I'm a little confused by the top part of the frame. It looks like RS7 & a should go underneath the cross rail on the seat back section but it looks like there will be a small "wedge" of space between RS7 & a and the seat back rail? Is that right or have I messed up an angle somewhere??
You,ve got it spot on BB, RS7 & RS7a go UNDER SB3, remembering to leave 3mm at the front face of SB3 so that when you weld on the CP2 plates its all flush with the angle of SB3 for when you come to fit the seat back panel,

You are correct, there is a small void where the end of RS7 & RS7a meet the CP2 plates, this is due to the SB3 part being canted back 17degree,s where as RS7 & RS7a are positioned horizontally, ( hope that makes sense )

Have a look at the lower sketch drawing of Fig 4.15 on page 43, you can see what I mean about the 17 degree angle of SB3 in relation to RS7 & RS7a.

cheers
andy
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Old 15th January 2011, 05:32 PM
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brainbug007 brainbug007 is offline
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Good stuff, I was well worried I'd messed that bit up properly and was going to have to redo it all!
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Old 15th January 2011, 05:39 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Good stuff, I was well worried I'd messed that bit up properly and was going to have to redo it all!
No worries

Enjoy the rest of your build

cheers
andy
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  #6  
Old 16th January 2011, 04:23 PM
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brainbug007 brainbug007 is offline
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This bit is well annoying! I've gone to fit the rs1-3 section and realised the "open" end of the assembly has ended up nearly 10mm over the 421mm it should be from inside wall to inside wall The bottom end measures up fine and the corners are 90 degrees as they should be so I guess the metal has warped at bit on me during tack welding? Should I 1) just put it on as is and adjust the measurement from the center line, 2) try and knock it with a hammer into the right size, 3) chuck it in the scrap pile and try again?
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Old 16th January 2011, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainbug007 View Post
This bit is well annoying! I've gone to fit the rs1-3 section and realised the "open" end of the assembly has ended up nearly 10mm over the 421mm it should be from inside wall to inside wall The bottom end measures up fine and the corners are 90 degrees as they should be so I guess the metal has warped at bit on me during tack welding? Should I 1) just put it on as is and adjust the measurement from the center line, 2) try and knock it with a hammer into the right size, 3) chuck it in the scrap pile and try again?
It does indeed seem that it has warped,

so I,d suggest not to do your suggestion number 1.......won,t be easy to get the centerline on chassis to the RS1 & RS2 whilst trying to keep it all in place at same time.....(only 1 pair of hands etc )

Option 2 is a possible ....

Option 3 ...... not needed

My suggestion would be to tack in a cross brace between RS1 & RS2 to keep it at the correct measurement, tack weld the assembley into postion then remove the cross brace & then do a full check on measurements from the chassis centerline,

use a similar process with the upper part of the assembley too ....basically, as you are welding some 45degree corners together its easy for the weld distortion to "PULL" outwards which has created this situation for you.

Hope that helps.

cheers
andy
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