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#1
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![]() the chassis is greasemonkey's he has told me the transmisson tunnel dropped abit see the post above. i was just lookin at what the experts had to say about it, as i've not done 1 of these before.
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#2
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![]() If it's only the trans tunnel a bit pissed you may well be ok but check corner to corner and how level the whole plot is side to side front to back. If it's welded up it's not a good idea to go cutting tubes out as that will bugger things as it will move even if you don't notice it...
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#3
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![]() the built table can sag in the middle causing the tranny tunnel to 5 mm lower, the rest of the chass corner to corner could well be nice and straight.
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#4
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![]() If you do decide to cut a part out and repair anything weld a brace over it first before cutting as the chassis will move a hell of a lot as I found out when I made the over all length of the chassis 30mm too long with the front frame,I had to use body hydraulic jacks to re-align it and it was welded on a car jig bed and it still has a very slight twist to it.
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#5
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![]() The book says to cut out the section of BR1 after welding, I wouldn't do that i I was you. Much better and safer to cut this out prior to welding as it's this section that will lead to the tunnel section being twisted.
Better still is to cut the tubes that form the tunnel opening with 45 degree angles so you don't have any open ends....doing it this way you could fully weld and dress this up before tacking it into the chassis...simples ![]() |
#6
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![]() Quote:
![]() A little typo error but its spot on advice for the tranny tunnel area ![]() cheers andy |
#7
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![]() Quote:
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