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  #1  
Old 26th February 2011, 12:39 AM
Eternal Eternal is offline
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i think i will buy the steel one anyhow just to compare them. Would also save some weight as well and alot more simple to cut down so it wont hang down as much. I Just think its a shame as the ally one is such a nice bit of kit.
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  #2  
Old 26th February 2011, 01:36 AM
minicountryman1961 minicountryman1961 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eternal View Post
I Just think its a shame as the ally one is such a nice bit of kit.
no one will ever see your sump unless you are running over them.
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  #3  
Old 26th February 2011, 05:14 AM
mikemph mikemph is offline
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I can do it for £50 plus whatever the postage cost. I will even do a dye test to make sure there are no leaks before returning it to you.
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  #4  
Old 26th February 2011, 09:29 AM
Eternal Eternal is offline
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sweet stuff i will find out how much it will cost to send. Its going to need a hell of a clean as well at some point as its full of ally dust/grit from where i have been chopping lol. Thats a job im not looking forward to do!
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  #5  
Old 26th February 2011, 10:22 PM
baz-r baz-r is offline
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you do the plugs and i could weld it in for you for a fee .
i have my 200a ac/dc tig running of a 16a plug with a 13a adapter i got from toolstation for £5 had it flat out on my tig and fuse held in ok or if your mig is big enough (250a up) and you have the right gas and wire you could mig it (4043 for cast) heat it up will help fore either way
idea if you have a lathe you could could make a bung to sweat in with some bearing retainer if its round and the fit is right it will stay in no worrys
if you have trips in the fuse board changing the class (not rating) of the trip will make it less prone to nusence tripping i think it was c class that was fitted as my 195a mig was knocking the trip out
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  #6  
Old 26th February 2011, 10:42 PM
will_08 will_08 is offline
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Your right Baz, if its the initial start up (rush current) that is tripping your MCB, putting another type in will help 'B' is the standard domestically, but you can buy 'C's or 'D's of the same current rating of course.

Will
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  #7  
Old 26th February 2011, 11:46 PM
Eternal Eternal is offline
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Well i have all the rods required and also some nice bits of ally that can be made into plugs. I will pop over to toolstation tomorrow and pick one of those adapters up. Will give it a bash myself if i can... not done any ally work yet but need to learn as i have soooooooo much to weld/fab. Sump, cam covers, waterblock, IAC valve adapter, throttle body adapter and a inlet plenum.

One thing i could really do with some help on at some point is the correct settings to use on the R-Tech welder for ally/cast ally.
http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/weldi...-Tech_Tig201WC is the fella i have atm. Also below is a pic of the front pannel.
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File Type: jpg tig settings.jpg (96.0 KB, 17 views)
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  #8  
Old 27th February 2011, 08:26 AM
TheArf TheArf is offline
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You could always buy a three pin plug to blue plug adaptor from a caravan centre or Argos for around £5 to £6 thats what I did, I doubt if you could but the bits for what they charge
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  #9  
Old 27th February 2011, 10:36 PM
Tilly819 Tilly819 is offline
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hi there

i also have the Rtech 200Amp acdc tig set, it will run on a 13 amp supply providing you dont go much above 150-160 amp welding current

the machine only needs the full 16A when you are welding up at the 170-200Amp range

This is what the R tech Tech guys told me since when i bought mine i did not have a 16A supply but do now.

hope this helps...

also a mornings work for a skilled man allowing for overheads 200 quid is about right, IIRC when i go on site the company i work for charges approximately £500 a day for my time im not trying to brag or anything just put things into perspective.

however i would just get you set out and put a 13amp plug on the end of the wire lol

tilly


EDIT: just noticed you saying you havnt done much ally welding, hope you dont mind me giving you one very important tip, make sure its spotlessly clean and that you remove ALL of the oxide layer in the welding area ally oxide melts at about 3X time temp of ally and if it isnt removed what happens is you arc up and the inside of the metal melts before the outside, the the outside melts and the whole lot just disappears.

tilly

Last edited by Tilly819 : 27th February 2011 at 10:40 PM.
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  #10  
Old 27th February 2011, 10:41 PM
mikemph mikemph is offline
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I can give it a quick once over in the sand blaster, then in the degreasing tank to get it squeeky clean!!!


Quote:
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sweet stuff i will find out how much it will cost to send. Its going to need a hell of a clean as well at some point as its full of ally dust/grit from where i have been chopping lol. Thats a job im not looking forward to do!
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