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#1
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![]() Thanks for the helpful comments
UPDATE 1 Happy with the drive shafts looks like there was no problem at all. 2 Cut a bit off the long lower sus bolts they now clear the wheel rim. 3 Dummy struts in progress 4 Just to clear up the confusion CP10 s are fully welded in place with the nearside one upside down.It will be a nightmare to grind out or it could be re drilled and the holes closed upwith weld. I reason it may be a lot easier to weld the the diff mount plates to the CPs unless there was a reason why I shouldn't. The diff mount brackets are also fully welded as per spec ![]() Cheers Adrian PS Any thoughts on welding up diff mounts as in 4? Last edited by ayjay : 1st April 2011 at 11:00 AM. Reason: Add PS |
#2
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![]() Diff now fits properly. I managed to re drill the holes without smashing the drill bit(the new holes circumferences crossed the old holes )
Donor car gone --lifted off the drive today . I got a tenner from two Irish gentlemen. None of the scrap merchants were interested . Two years ago they'd have fought over it ![]() Bolted in the pedal box , Painted rear drums and back plates and cleared up the garage ready for the grand opening ![]() |
#3
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![]() So when will the big reveal be then mate, will it be champers or a bottle of brown ale
Arfon |
#4
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![]() Cut some bits of scrap 25x25 at 5 1/2 ins and 4" and drill centers to match shock holes and that will give you a good idea of ride height unladen,long cap/allen bolts work well in the rear lower wishbone to upright, 240mm if I remember.
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
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