New Build thread

[K4KEV]

I'm using a 25 amp boost charger at the mo and it is a little overkill on the small parts I am doing, however a 50 minute session gets a good depth of ano....your average 4-6 amp charger will do it in 4-6 hrs .....easiest way to do it is trial and error,,,,although if you needed some No's just ask...and I know red does it for you Ronnie

[Ricky]

Hi everyone hi kev I just wanted to ask you on how do you do your own electro plating could you perhaps give the details on how? THANKS

[K4KEV]

Hi Ricky....all details on how I did the nickel plating here
http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showt...nickel+plating

[Ricky]

Thanks a lot kev

[Ricky]

Hi kev sorry I forgot to ask you do you do your own anodise and if so do you also have info on that or do you send your parts out for that

[K4KEV]

Hi Rick....Anodising is a lot easier... Sulphuric Acid is your electrolyte AAA always add acid to de-ionised or distilled water I used battery acid at around 15-20 percent with water ....start with lower value.... battery acid is already diluted as is
the aluminium is your anode and lead sheeting (same or more surface area as anode) as the cathode. use a largish container as your bath...I use around 2litres.... aluminium rods and wire are my hangers/conductors if it is new aluminium make sure it is very very clean (polished or not ) I use acetone as a final clean before anodising ....when finished, it will look slightly dull ...take out and clean with de ionised or distilled water then put in a dye bath (I use commercially available dye)... leave in for however long you want or whatever depth of colour you want which is a trial and error thing.... then you put in a pan of hot water on the simmer to seal the anodised layer again it is down to preference but I often use a small steam cleaner to seal. by the way you must not let the anodising bath get too hot because that will self seal before colouring stage I would say less than hand hot.... less than 50 C'.
If it is an already anodised part then you have to suspend item in a bath of caustic soda (which is fun to watch as it is vigorous and quick) to remove the original anodised layer then prep as above.....think I have covered everthing there ... google DIY anodising ....there are lots of informative sites.

[Ricky]

Thanks a lot for your help most appreciated and I shall check on the net regarding anodise once again thanks

[K4KEV]

fancied doing something different to keep up my interest so I'm embarking on the task of making my own ally fuel tank.
I have always thought the book tank was way to small so at the expense of "boot" space I have decided to make my tank in a shape that utilises the area above the diff as well.....I have also decided on 3mm aluminium which might seem overkill but I believe that in a rear end collision it is far more likely to deform rather than rupture and that in its self should create a kind of crumple zone which adds further peace of mind it will have two internal baffles to keep "slosh" down to a minimum and either a sump or swirl pot in the base to cater for fuel injection, capacity is 57.5 litres might yet add a little more to the top to bring it up to 60 not sure yet
Going to do this in my usual methodical way which to to make a cardboard mock up and when I am satisfied with that I will make a template then a sheet metal folder to initiate the construction proper....so for now here is the mock up in cardboard ...it needs a wee bit of fettling yet
if any one is interested I might be making some more but they wont be cheap due to the amount of work involved and the fact that they are 3mm thick

[d4mo]

Would the extra weight of the fuel change the handling dynamics of the car?

[robo]

Originally Posted by K4KEV

fancied doing something different to keep up my interest so I'm embarking on the task of making my own ally fuel tank.
I have always thought the book tank was way to small so at the expense of "boot" space I have decided to make my tank in a shape that utilises the area above the diff as well.....I have also decided on 3mm aluminium which might seem overkill but I believe that in a rear end collision it is far more likely to deform rather than rupture and that in its self should create a kind of crumple zone which adds further peace of mind it will have two internal baffles to keep "slosh" down to a minimum and either a sump or swirl pot in the base to cater for fuel injection, capacity is 57.5 litres might yet add a little more to the top to bring it up to 60 not sure yet
Going to do this in my usual methodical way which to to make a cardboard mock up and when I am satisfied with that I will make a template then a sheet metal folder to initiate the construction proper....so for now here is the mock up in cardboard ...it needs a wee bit of fettling yet
if any one is interested I might be making some more but they wont be cheap due to the amount of work involved and the fact that they are 3mm thick

Did you do much more on the long range tank Kev ?

Bob