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#1
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![]() I couldn't get my engine any further back and I've found my gear stick hits the tunnel tube just in front when in 1st ect
Is it worth moving the gearstick back with a remote gearlever, does it give a better and more comfortable position? Or should I chop the tunnel tube out and weld a new one in? Cheers guys. |
#2
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![]() mine.. type 9 + cvh , leaver behind bar.
TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#3
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![]() Steve is this and the trouble you had with the steering shaft alignment all related to the same problem? The engine and box may be a tad to far forward .
Bob
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#4
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![]() It possibly could be the problem but I can't get the engine any further back, I've got about 3/16in clearance between the clutch arm plastic cover and the chassis rails.
I've got the gearbox mounted as per the book I've now made a new engine mount to get past the steering column problem. ![]() ![]() Last edited by SeriesLandy : 22nd August 2011 at 01:59 PM. |
#5
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![]() I don,t understand why this problem has occured
![]() But how about removing the tube in front of the gearstick ( TT5 ) & reposition it an inch or two further forward so that its between TT9 & TT11 tho I appreciate it means cutting some new steel, If you did this I would also suggest putting an extra piece of steel behind the gearstick between the 2 TT7,s to ensure the strength of the tranny tunnel is maintained. As said ....not sure why this problem has occured but if you can,t get the engine any further back then I,d do the above suggestion. cheers andy |
#6
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![]() I would go with the remote gearlever option,this will move it back 125mm and solve the prob easily.
![]() http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WESTFIELD-...item5d2ff81f90 |
#7
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![]() Andy- that was my first thought, in the picture I was going to cut out the white hashed area and weld a tube in front of the tube.
I was really asking if the gear stick was in the optimum position or would it be better sitting further back with the remote stick?? (cheers ozzy) Last edited by SeriesLandy : 22nd August 2011 at 02:00 PM. |
#8
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![]() Quote:
If you cut the tube away in front of the gearstick then I,d remove the whole part TT5 & replace further forward across between TT9 / TT11 as when you put it into 5th gear it might catch on the bit that you haven,t removed ( as in your white hashed area ). cheers andy |
#9
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![]() Steve
That was the exact same position I ended up with on my build with the Zetec engine fitted. Didn't want to go further back as I wanted to retain the original thermostat housing & be able to remove it with the engine fitted. + I have very short legs & I found that to be the ideal gearlever position for me. Was going to cut that bit of tube out & replace it with a bit of 3mm plate with a oval hole cut out. A shallow fold where the trany tunnel rises + a 90 deg bend at either end by way of plate stiffeners. Woud also be a good fixing point for a nice gear lever surround.
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I am not a complete idiot...........Some of the parts are missing !! Ronnie ![]() www.roadster-builders.co.uk |
#10
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![]() I think I'll have a sit in the car tonight and work out what is comfortable for me. Being 6'2" it might be in the best place.
At the moment it's the bit stopping me getting on with the build when Im not doing a million and 1 other things |
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