pedal construction

[robo]

Thats more like it.

Bob

[Toyotus]

Like I said, I meant no offense, but obviously we're on the same page about the bar on the back. I'm not sure why I noticed the reason for the bar in front being that on the back would interfere with the clevis's, then immediately welded plates that will interfere with them!

Anyway as someone else stated, the way to go would be to just build them all from 3/16ths. (5mm). Hindsight......well you know.

Well I also got much better @ welding galvenized! : P



Also was nice change back to heavy plate!(I'm a heavy truck mechanic/fabricator)

All painted up with bushing installed. We'll see how paint holds up to Oregon coast, its Valspar Tractor Emplement paint.

[Johno]

Hi,
No offence taken just pointing out it was me.... ......
The problem I had with the pedals is I got the pedals laser cut before I researched here on the forum about upping the the thickness...
The reason I choose to modify the pedals instead of getting thicker ones was there a four of us building and I got four sets laser cut.....dammmmmnnnn.
I looked at a few options such as flat bar, tube and then decided to weld solid 8mm to the front of the pedals which makes them very stiff and has less impact on any other parts in that area.

Look forward to seeing some more pics of your build..Johno

http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/...1/MX5%20Build/

[Toyotus]

Here is the pedal base/box with all tabs welded on and painted. Leaving all holes undrilled until I'm ready to mount master cylinders/cable guide, ect. I had a hard time finding a sleeve for the pivot bolts. Finally found exactly what I needed in stainless, for $5.49/ft.! Luckily that did all three bushings and a castor wheel for my creeper!
I actually drilled and tapped and installed some 5/32 grease zirks too, as I still perfer the idea of the nylon riding on the bolt, instead of metal on metal, might as well just use a solid 1" (25mm) spacer drilled for the pivot bolt. Either way, I suppose this will be longer lasting this way.