led flasher resistors

[davedew]

The resistor is wired in parallel as it is there to apply the extra load that the relay needs to see to flash correctly, not drop the voltage to the led's.

The other option is to buy a dual load indicator relay. These have a fixed flash rate and will work with either led's, bulbs, or a mixture.

Something like the below. This should be suitable for use in the standard Sierra wiring setup.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-FLASHE...em5d2f4 c7b2f

[rich]

im using a 3 pin led flasher unit got off ebay for about £5, just plug it in
make sure the pin configuration is the same, some are different

[Peter-C]

Just tried one connected under the scuttle WORKS FINE !!!

Thanks lads

[robo]

Originally Posted by davedew

The resistor is wired in parallel as it is there to apply the extra load that the relay needs to see to flash correctly, not drop the voltage to the led's.

The other option is to buy a dual load indicator relay. These have a fixed flash rate and will work with either led's, bulbs, or a mixture.

Something like the below. This should be suitable for use in the standard Sierra wiring setup.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-FLASHE...em5d2f4 c7b2f

I reckon that relay is the kiddie. Its the proper job and will keep the legal 60/120 flashes per min where they belong. not saying dont use resistors but all the guess work is gone using that relay.

Bob

[Not Anumber]

Standard car flasher relays are current / thermal dependant. The rate at which they flash is determined by the wattage load of the indicators. If one of the bulbs blows (or is replaced with a LED) the thing flashes at an 'alarming' rate. Alarming being the right word because it used to be considered a useful thing to let motorists know they had a blown bulb - before the days of buld failure warning circuits.

This arrangement was of course no use for anyone towing a trailer or caravan and the fix was a simple one- to use a slightly different type of flasher relay, one that wasn't dependant on bulb load but would continue to flash away at a fixed (MOT compliant) rate however many bulbs were connected to it.

These are still available and shouldnt cost £ 14 - something like this would do the job perfectly well:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electronic...em56482 92196

Using a standard flasher relay with a parallel resistor is of course another way round but frankly not the best. The resistor will heat up quite a bit as it effectively has the whole power of the battery accross it (not something i'd want next to the wiring loom in my car, near the fuel tank etc).

Doing it the right way avoids the risk of components overheating and reduces the load on the battery and alternator.

[ayjay]

Just sent for one of those to stop my flashers going banananananas.

Worth a punt for £1.38 inc pp (well you never know do you-it may have something inside the plastic case)

Ill let you all know how I get on-and if it works.

BTW another step closer-Arf pointed out that my servo vac pipe was still unblanked causing my engine to stop after about 5secs---Ive now got a proper vroom vroom. Vid cam charging --appropriate music chosen --car will emerge on first dryish day( well I dont want it to get wet do I)

[alga]

NaN, a small correction: the resistor would need to take the power of a standard flasher bulb, not the whole battery

[Wynand]

My dash indicator repeater lights (and all other warning lights) are high intensity LED's and works fine with correct resisters fitted to LED's positive ends to keep the supply voltage 3vdc. Both std indicator relays (one for hazards) flashes at correct speed as with normal repeater globes.

[Peter-C]

Cheers lads,

I fitted two 50 watt 6.8 ohm resistors under the scuttle and its all fine now. Same rate for the hazards and the indicators.

Peter