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#1
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![]() I am partial to a rivnut. But I cant see any reason for not using the normal rivet on the underfloor. Once bonded and riveted that floor would never come off in one piece, I also cant think of a reason to ever remove it once installed anyway.
Bob
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#2
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![]() I riveted all the aluminum panels. But all my body work is held on with riv nuts. It's suprising how many times that the bodywork (particularly the scuttle) needs to be removed to gain access to stuff.
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#3
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![]() The rivnuts I use protrude by about 1mm from the rail they are inserted in. Are there ones that sit absolutely flush?
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Build Cost so far £xxx (Given up adding it up) - She Starts!! Build Thread Here: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5501 |
#4
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![]() Countersunk rivnuts .http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j0...ut-Metric-.jpg
If I did want a removable underfloor it would be a lot easier with those self tapping self drilling bolts.http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=sel...7&tx=106&ty=95 and the hole would be no bigger than the normal rivet. I picked up one of these swivel headed rivnut tools off ebay. Dead on for getting in tight spots. http://www.rivetnuttool.net/images/w...ivetsrivet.jpg Bob.
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 Last edited by robo : 19th April 2012 at 10:14 AM. |
#5
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![]() Rivnuts come in all different configerations and you possibly need thin sheet one's MikeB.
The question of weakenig the chassis is a good one,normally if something splits or cracks the fix/cure is to drill a small hole at the end of it,so I would think that unless you can drill a square hole you should have no problems and with square tube you have three other sides to support it.
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#6
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![]() Well I thought of using rivnuts underneath as then access to the prop can be gained easily. Now I think about it I can just rivet the bottom panel underneath same as everyone else, and just rivnut the inside tunnel panels and the back panel behind the seats. That might work out better.
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#7
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![]() Quote:
or fully panel in the whole bottom/underside & make the top of the tranny tunnel interior panel removeable ( this is how mine is ) as I thought getting into the prop would be easier from above rather than from below. Also worth noting.....The IVA tester "may" want to see inside the tranny tunnel come test time. cheers andy |
#8
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![]() Quote:
My floor is bonded & rivetted to the chassis with 182 rivets ( ![]() ![]() & like wylliezx9r I have done the same with the body panels. ( my rear wings are bolted to my rear tub so that the whole back end can be taken off in 1 piece ). IMHO...1 rivnut every 8 inches apart is too much, its surprising how few rivnuts you,ll need to hold everything in place, Theres, only 28 rivnuts in my whole car, & not all are secured into the chassis steel. ![]() just my opinion of course . cheers andy |
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