![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Round about £2400 --The big bits left are coilovers and IVA--probably about £650.
Built my own chassis but thought better of making sus bits -Talon did a far better job. Voucht stainless brake hose ,Kevs ally tank ,one of Ash's group buy roll bar from the year dot ,modified and widened locost body bits and an aerospace fitter living down the road{Arf) ![]() ![]() |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]() If you're good at hunting for bargains in eBay, have most of the tools, have useful friends who can help, you can hope for around 3000 quid (including IVA).
If you're buying everything at list prices it works out at around £4000+IVA, and if you go for shiny high-spec items you could hit 5000. The costliest items are bodywork (£500-ish for a 6-piece set, 900-ish for a full 10-piece), dampers (£300-400), IVA (£450), nice wheels (naught to £1000).
__________________
Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I would agree with alga, shiny (or nice black) bits cost money.
I'm on target for about £4.5-5K but that is all new apart from the donor, also with things I'm only gonna buy once like alloys. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() It's all the nuts,bolts,trim,fasteners and things that add up secretly.
My wheels were almost free, as was most of the donor parts. Must do some work on her this weekend. TT
__________________
You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]() thaks guys its just given me a rough idea thats all. i'm hoping with my old man working for a agricultural machinery fabrication company and the little bro working for freightliner in the workshop i can get the steel and nuts and bolts and fastners for either free or next to nothing. Ive had a quote for 36 metres of 25mm x 25mm box at £120 - brand new steel, delivered. the old man reckons he could get it cheaper than that so see what happens eh
cheers martin |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Raw materials don't account for much. My steel was under £100 all in, ally £150. Think about things like lighting, harnesses, bushings, seats, exhaust can, driveshaft, instruments, air filter, clutch, balljoints, tyres, battery, fuel tank, fluids.
__________________
Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() what i found on both my builds ( not on the one i did for dad though hes a real tight arse bast@rd) is that it doesnt get expensive until the end. It depends on the quality of finish you want, a nice set of dials can cost 500 quid and then theres things like fuel caps, lights, switches, nice seats etc. IVA and registration/tax/insurance is about a grand. It also depends on what time of timescale you set yourself. Its always going to cost you more if you build your car within say a year than if you build it over say, three years as you can pick your bargains at the right time. K4Kevs build is a prime example, hes been hording parts for years
![]() Best way of doing in my opinion it is to get it on the road as a basic car with basic fittings, and then upgrade it as you own it, at least that way you can have some fun driving it
__________________
A few build photos... www.photobucket.com/ntsengineering |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|