Brake Flairing Guide

[brainbug007]

Sorry to dig this thread up... Finally getting round to trying to learn to flare. Am I right in thinking that for the convex for male ends (single flair) I just use the tool with the dye in to make the 1st flair? And then to make it a concave (double flair) for female ends I just remove the dye and do it again?

[robo]

datz da one

Bob

[baz-r]

Originally Posted by brainbug007

Sorry to dig this thread up... Finally getting round to trying to learn to flare. Am I right in thinking that for the convex for male ends (single flair) I just use the tool with the dye in to make the 1st flair? And then to make it a concave (double flair) for female ends I just remove the dye and do it again?

yep the second flair is the cone shape bit on your tool and folds the front half of your first flair back to make it like a funnel.

i find the best thing to do is cut the end off all your metal pipes leaving the end with its nut etc. in the parts you take off your doner then you know the tread,length and type of swage you need when you make all your pipes up.

[brainbug007]

Cool thanks for the confirmation guys. Couple of other questions:

To gauge how much pipe to have sticking out of the clamp with the wing nuts, is using the step on the dye about right? On my tool there doesn't seem to be much difference between the size of the dyes on the step... If that's not a good idea, can anyone say how much I should have sticking out for a 3/16 pipe?

I found cutting the pipe with a pipe cutter quite hard, infact the pipe cutter broke on the 1st attempt and basically squashed the pipe. I'm thinking using a dremel to cut it is a better way to go then try to file it down as flat as possible?

[robo]

The amount of pipe to leave proud of the dies varies from tool to tool so just have a play. As for cutting use the roller cutters as that leaves it ready to swage without the need to chamfer the pipe. Dont forget to debur the inside of the pipe.

Bob