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#1
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![]() Cheers Nathan and Eternal.
I'm just making things up as I go now and if don't lke it I change it.. ![]() I just got to stop painting stuff before I'm happy with it........ ![]() Robo did you have a look at Mcgill site, they seem to do a large range of rose joints and accessories. They also do M16-M12 Rod End Joint Reducers, High Misalignment spacers. Well I welded up my new front lower wishbones Saturday and this evening I tacked in a cross tube similar to the rear lower wishbones. I've decided to do this instead of a plate between the two tubes. So what I'm asking is this a good or bad idea? This time I'm asking before I go and weld it... ![]() Whats you opinion? Photos updated http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/ Bye for now Johno |
#2
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![]() I think its a good idea, especially if you add another one crossing it going the other way. Whenever iv seen failed wishbones it has always been at the end of the plate. Must have something to do with the amount of heat the seam weld on both sides does to the steels integrity.
Ive read a while ago, something to do with wishbone tubes should not follow the exact path of any force going though them, cant remember where or what exactly, maybe a real engineer will come along and put me right or wrong. ![]()
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A few build photos... www.photobucket.com/ntsengineering |
#3
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![]() looks good johno. ive been following yours ( and skovs) build threads, even although ive been flat out with work for the past 5 months and done nothing to my car. i like the idea of your revised wishbone. im thinking of rose jointing all my wishbones and doing away with bushes etc. not sure if its a fantastic idea though?! haha
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Stew |
#4
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![]() Hey johnno did you clock the upper wishbones on the roll bar thread. Thats the sort of thing I had in mind.
![]() Bob
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#5
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![]() Ok you may want to put some shades on for this so be warned because here she is......
![]() ![]() ![]() I warned you...LOL Seriously need to tone it down somewhat with some black bits here and there I think. Very pleased with the panels just needs some more polishing in places. One bonus is the bonnet clears the engine even without a bonnet bulge and still needs to go up another 2mm for the side panels as well. ![]() I've just got to figure out a starting point to fit them from which I guess is trial and error to start with. One question, what's the best way to cut the hole in the front nosecone for the rad and oil cooler to achieve the best finish? Bye for now Johno |
#6
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![]() Quote:
Haven't seen that thread but will look. Is this what you plan to do on your front wishbones as the American Locost boys use this type of setup as well and seem to have no problems. I guess this gives you some adjustment on your caster to help with centering right? I like the idea of that especially with the ability to alter camber without removing the ball joint. I've came up with a neat (hopefully) solution similar to the photo regarding camber adjustment for IVA and was also thinking about using Heim joints for caster (after Algas thread) but is it ok to mix and match poly bushes with Heim joints as my front lowers are poly now as below..... ![]() Cya all soon Johno |
#7
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![]() Quote:
![]() Bob
__________________
When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#8
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![]() Hi Robo,
![]() I've been thinking about the design of my upper front wishbones and think I'm going down the "Rose Joint/Heim" route istead of polybushes. I believe on Algas thread you said the MX5 caster is 5 degrees. I was thinking about moving the top ball joint adjuster rearward to achieve 6 degrees with the Rose Joints at 90 degrees to the pivot bolt. I'm going to use misalignment washers and machine some spacers for the suspension brackets to take up any slack. This will give me the option to dial in a caster angle to suit the geometry for the front of the car. I plan to bend the top tubes and weld on threaded inserts onto the ends of the tube which will give a cleaner look...... The outer camber adjuster will be adjustable whilst on the car without removing the ball joint but it will not be a bought in item as I'm having some parts machined up. Like I said not finalized yet so any input from anybody will be appreciated. ![]() ![]()
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Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex... It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction. Albert Einstein http://s1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/ Johno |
#9
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![]() Quote:
Yeah I keep playing around with the wishbones until I come up with something that I'm happy with.... ![]() Check out LocostUSA forum, these guys only seem to use rose joints (heim joints over there) and seem to swear by them. So I would say if you want to go that route it would be fine..... ![]() ![]() Johno |
#10
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![]() hi johno Is that equinox body kit?
David
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Click to see my build photos on Flikr http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/ Saturn MX5 Based Chassis, Limited Slip Diff & 2.4 Quick Rack. Build cost.... seems to be spending more on tools than car bits at the moment! (they will be handy in the future though). Car iva'd and passed 15/08/2014. Finished weight 572kg. |
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