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#1
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why not just weld in two same size bits of tube to jack it up 25mm?
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#2
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You are right, I'm not going to do it now, but I will keep this as an option for later if I need.
Thank you. Quote:
Thanks anyway, could have been a solution ![]()
__________________
Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://caferacer-kawa-gpz-zx550.blogspot.com/ |
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#3
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Lower the seat.
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#4
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In fact I made the rollbar hoop 51 cm high in order for a plank put between the engine and the rollbar to clear my head by several centimetres.
__________________
Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
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#5
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As Kev says, I'm not sure 25mm will make a big difference (especially for midgets like me). I guess you made it 51cm high because you are tall. But I don't really trust the roll bar design an anyway and hope the car will never flip over. I think the best chance of survival in the Roadster is not the roll-bar, but staying on the 4 wheels
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__________________
Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://caferacer-kawa-gpz-zx550.blogspot.com/ |
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#6
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Hi,
I'm in a deep sh...t I just finished my roll bar. IMG_2751_1.JPG But I have a problem: after fully weld the cross-bar, it looks like the whole thing shrieked. When I tried to fit the roll bar fully welded, it looks like each RB1 plate moved inward of about 3mm. So I can't bolt the roll bar on the chassis, it is of course not flexible enough to match CP3/CP4 hole pattern. IMG_2747_1.JPG However, to put everything together, I made sure that: - I drilled plates RB1 at the same time as CP3/CP4, to make sure both hole patterns will be exactly the same, - I tacked the man hoop on RB1 with RB1 bolted to CP3/CP4 on the chassis to be sure they will be exactly where they should be, - I tacked the cross-bar and the back stays in the same way. But I should have fully welded the roll bar with the plates bolted to the chassis too. I didn't expect it to move so much after being tacked. What do you guys think? How can I solve the problem? I really don't want to cut RB1 plates off and weld new ones. I'm thinking about making “oval” holes on RB1 to match with CP4 hole pattern, but as the roll-bar is holding the seat belts, is this acceptable? Any opinion, advice or comment is welcome. I'm so pissed-off Thank you.
__________________
Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://caferacer-kawa-gpz-zx550.blogspot.com/ |
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#7
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Sylvain....it does not look like it is much out, I would weld up the hole, grind it back and re drill to suit or you could make the hole oval and then weld up one edge of the hole and file to fit
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