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#1
23rd July 2013, 02:45 PM
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Nightmare mate!
Have a look at my flickr page. There should be a photo of how I have solid mounted the nose of my diff with a very big bolt. On my jollies so can provide the full link. Will post some photos when I get home David
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Click to see my build photos on Flikr http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/ Saturn MX5 Based Chassis, Limited Slip Diff & 2.4 Quick Rack. Build cost.... seems to be spending more on tools than car bits at the moment! (they will be handy in the future though). Car iva'd and passed 15/08/2014. Finished weight 572kg. 
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#2
23rd July 2013, 03:20 PM
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When the wheels are being driven forward the nose of the diff will want to pull up.
This was what I have plumped for along with some solid aluminium 'bushes' in the diff ears instead of rubbers it should keep it in place and any upward force should be directed into the cross members.  I may buy a spare diff now though...  Cheers Stot
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1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP : 1.8 ATB LSD Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Still OTR June 2024
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#3
23rd July 2013, 03:38 PM
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I think it would be advisable to use copper/nickle 90/10% brake and fuel pipes with a solid mounted diff, plain copper may fatigue easily with vibration so I have read.
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#4
24th July 2013, 05:06 AM
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Quick thought, would an LSD be immune from the broken mounting arms ? I say this because with an LSD you get little or no spin at the drive wheels, meaning hell of a lot less vibration on the rear end & diff.
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#5
24th July 2013, 06:04 AM
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I think an lsd would be worse, when that lets go there will be that much more power going through it.
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#6
24th July 2013, 01:50 PM
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Looks like my propshaft is buggered too...
The UJ at the diff end can slide from side to side by half an inch or so 
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#8
24th July 2013, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
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