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  #1  
Old 11th August 2013, 07:13 PM
Short Short is offline
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Yes, but they are connected in the mazda via the ladder beam, to keep the diff from twisting. the rubber connections are where the diff/box/engine structure join the subframes, so they are isolated from the main loads on the body. Remember the gearbox mount on the mazda is not rubber, its stiff. I was thinking by using the transmission tunnel as the ladder beam (maybe with a few additional diagonals) and solid mount the drivetrain to the tunnel, it MAY act as the original ladder beam in the mazda. rubber mounting as the original car will give a little flexability.

for instance, if you hit a bump on the road with the rear left wheel, the rear left of the car would twist slightly. if the diff was solid mounted instread of bushes then this would twist the diff arm with the framework, stressing the diff arm.

On another note, can I ask why you revised the handbrake plate at the back of the tunnel a few times? im setting mine up now, and I cant see any problems. it cant be that easy can it?
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Old 11th August 2013, 09:42 PM
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skov skov is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Short View Post
On another note, can I ask why you revised the handbrake plate at the back of the tunnel a few times? im setting mine up now, and I cant see any problems. it cant be that easy can it?
I changed it because I didn't like the angle of the cables at that bracket.
With the bracket following the seat backs the cable outers point upwards into the tunnel, but the inners have to go down to the lever.
Think it took me a few attempts to get it right without the cables rubbing on the chassis, or the plate bending too much.
Probably would have been fine the way it was originally
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Old 11th August 2013, 09:59 PM
robo robo is offline
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This is my take on the problem. In the original application all is well unless silly hp is applied. If you look at the way the diff is mounted as standard it relies on the cross bar top mounting and what is effectively a tether for the nose of the diff. As mounted in the haynes as soon as you side step the clutch the diff tries to buck instead of pulling on the tether as in the original and its this that is breaking the beam. ( I think). The nearest thing I can think of that would allow the diff to be rubber mounted and effectively tether the diff nose is by using something like this http://www.torquesolution.com/v/vspf...S-MC-R56-2.jpg and not restrain the diff nose. This is the third failure of the mx5 beam and in a minute someone will get hurt by a driveshaft stabbing them in the back.

Bob
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  #4  
Old 11th August 2013, 11:06 PM
PorkChop PorkChop is offline
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Keith Tanner of Flyin Miata seems to have found no problems with his set up, which was a welded bracket.
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  #5  
Old 11th August 2013, 11:34 PM
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CTWV50 CTWV50 is offline
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Eventually someone will hit on a solution. I think the key is to prevent that drivers side arm from twisting, as others have said it's design to fail in the event of a rear impact I believe ( correct me if I'm wrong). The arm if you look at it is a H-beam which is a strong section but if it's twisted it will fail from that notch they have cut.

Only other option is to reinforce the arm.

Ugly as it is, if/when mine fails I'll be interested to see how.



These are volvo engine mounts one top and one bottom with big end bolts going through the centre to 10mm thick steel sections one on the left and one to the right. If the nose lifts enough it will then stop after 10mm (I'm guessing), which I think the rear diff mounts can accommodate, and fingers crossed that's not enough to cause a failure. Problem is will it then try to pull the rear of the diff downwards around the new centre of rotation as torque is continued to be applied and fail anyway. I think this is the scenario for failures in high powered MX5's

I think Skov is right though if you are solid mounting anywhere then it has to be all round.

Useful link...

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar...101025T09.html

Last edited by CTWV50 : 12th August 2013 at 11:05 AM.
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  #6  
Old 12th August 2013, 01:59 PM
Short Short is offline
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1 comment on that - the bolts are in shear. eventually, it will snap them if there not tough enough.

As for solid mounts all round, you need to allow SOME movement due to chassis twist. No matter how braced it is, the chassis will twist in corners and over bumps. the mild steel diff cage will twist, but the cast diff wont. To be honest, I think a stiff mounted diff is more likely to fail than a bushed diff. Think how much damage a car would get with no suspension at all?
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Old 12th August 2013, 03:39 PM
Not Anumber Not Anumber is offline
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A while back i'd read this problem could be solved in a single stroke by throwing out the MX5 diff casing and housing the diff in a simpler box that would mount up the same as a Sierra diff would.

Has that idea gone out of the window ?
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Old 12th August 2013, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Not Anumber View Post
A while back i'd read this problem could be solved in a single stroke by throwing out the MX5 diff casing and housing the diff in a simpler box that would mount up the same as a Sierra diff would.

Has that idea gone out of the window ?
Phil has posted this up before with the extra chassis parts required but he removed it so I guess its not available yet.

Other problem is that many of us already have saturn based chassis so need a solution for that.

Cheers
Stot
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  #9  
Old 12th August 2013, 03:53 PM
Short Short is offline
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Not out the window, but people who already have the MX5 diff cage cant simply install that box. It requires a whole new diffcage and changing the transmission tunnel. - Not an option for some.
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Old 12th August 2013, 03:54 PM
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beat me to it Stot..........
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