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#1
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With regard to the diff support design, I see this as one of the fun/interesting bit's of the build, something we can all throw ideas around with. I enjoy the discussion. I'd like to avoid solid mounting if I can but if that's what it takes then so be it. With regards to how solid a rubber mounting needs to be, I can jack the rear of my car up using the nose of the diff (obviously only a part built car at the time) and it does not move at all in relation to the car chassis but that might change during a hard 1st gear launch, maybe 2nd gear launches could avoid this issue completely which might not be as daft as it sounds considering the weight of the vehicle. ![]() Last edited by CTWV50 : 13th August 2013 at 07:20 PM. |
#2
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#3
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![]() Once again, hugely constructive, thanks Phil!
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#4
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![]() So I will make this my last input on this subject (well at least for tonight as the cider monster is taking hold) but Phil have you ever completed the build of a haynes because I have never seen anything posted with a completed car built by your good self if you have I appologise if not don't slagg off other peoples efforts and designs
Good night Arfon |
#5
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![]() Surley, if there was the slightest doubt in the weld, if someones got any common sense, they will get someone else to weld it. Im no welder - I will openly admit that. I employ 4 of them. I tack it/set it up, they weld it for me. There all coded and I trust them.
As for people questioning the Saturn build guide - ITS A GUIDE!!! Its not a foolproof way. Its a learning curve. That's why im building one. to 'play' and have something worthwile at the end (plus I need an excuse to leave the wife indoors with the 2 toddlers!!) Im not wishing to call anyone down, and I feel kinda guilty for Phil getting a kicking on a thread I started. Your all great engineers. You've all got guts to take a project on like this, and I admire the talent that there is. Ive got to admit, ive copied some of your ideas (not saying whos ![]() |
#6
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![]() Hi everyone I wanted to mount the diff nose on rosé joints with poly inserts,this was the idea but when I mocked up a bracket like Phil's there doesn't seem to be enough room between sb4 to be able to do anything but a solid connection, the drive axles don't come out central between sb1 and d11 they are slightly forward is this correct, I have placed the plates cp26 as per Saturn alterations to the build show with the measurements as shown but I would like to move the diff back a bit to give me room to mount the nose as I wanted to do nothing is welded yet no suspension brackets or the cp26 plates, also my chassis was built as per the book for Sierra donar so top damper mount has to be moved forward so if I could move the diff back it would save me doing that, anyone got any suggestions?.
Regards Mick. |
#7
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![]() Why would you mount the diff on rod ends? I can't see any advantage to doing it...
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#8
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![]() Maybe I've not explained properly not rod ends more like the suspension mounts like Caterham mount theirs but just two not four
Regards Mick. |
#9
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![]() Yes, that's correct. Bear in mind that if you do bring the diff back you might need to make the wishbones longer (which wouldn't be a bad thing as the rear wheels are very close to the chassis on mine).
Last edited by skov : 15th August 2013 at 11:03 PM. |
#10
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![]() I went the route of solid mounting the nose combined with poly diff bushings. I don't know how common it is on your side of the pond, but state side its pretty common to either switch to poly bushings or go with a solid aluminum bushings for the diff carrier, with the only negative side effect being increase vibrations and noise. Also doing either of these is effectively solid mounting your diff. Prior to fabricating the nose bracket I had just the poly bushings installed and was only able to move the diff nose 1mm. So solid mounting the nose would have very little effect on things.
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