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  #1  
Old 6th September 2013, 06:12 PM
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CTWV50 CTWV50 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skov View Post
Good point about it being a hobby TT. That's the way I've tended to think about it.
There's no way I could justify spending 5 grand on a toy... Spending £40 a week on a hobby isn't completely unreasonable though.
It must be this way for you to finish I think. If you want a Lotus 7 type vehicle it would be cheaper to buy a used one than build one. I view a haynes as a challenge not as a way of owning a toy, that's just a bonus. Getting the money together can be as big a challenge though! In this regard I don't think I could of got this far without being an eBay seller. I'm currently a Top Rated Power Seller after 2 years of it.
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Old 6th September 2013, 09:41 PM
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alga alga is offline
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I bought 4 8'x4' sheets of aluminium: 2 mm half-hard for the floor and tank, 3 sheets of soft 1 mm 1050 for the panels. They cost me around £150 altogether. Making ali panels is fun and easy, and even though I've made mistakes, they're not very visible. In the book Chris recommends not bending the side panel where the chassis breaks towards the nose, just letting the sheet finds its own line. I read that advice after I've already bent mine:



I was quite upset thinking I've ruined the looks of the car for good. But in fact even with the far-from-perfect side panels, and the horrid crumbling GRP the car is still turns heads and looks great generally.



Here's my cutting plan for the thin panels:



Doing your own GRP is definitely a cost saving measure. The materials account for about 20% of the price of commercially made GRP panels. To save time and money, make a one off nose without making a female mould. Laminate glass on the buck, then auto filler and paint.

You can use this plan to make a buck of the size and shape of the Triton/SSC/Gillham nose:

http://locost.lt/download/file.php?id=385

25 mm squares, the black lines correspond to 20 mm slices, the red dotted ones are 50 mm apart. I have the vector version somewhere, too. I used the cheapest polystyrene foam and some plaster putty compound on top to protect the foam from the styrene in the resin.
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Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations
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  #3  
Old 6th September 2013, 10:06 PM
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Talonmotorsport Talonmotorsport is offline
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Originally Posted by alga View Post


Is a push start required for all motor sport in Lithuania or just in hill climbs to make it more of a challenge?
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  #4  
Old 6th September 2013, 10:28 PM
jason 82 jason 82 is offline
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Thanks for your help & advice everybody, sometimes this thing can hit you like a whirl wind. Enjoying the build so far, not quite sure about the gearbox tunnel, the mx5 one is very wide at the rear, may have to avoid those full English breakfasts from now on, might get my fat ass wedged and need a hoist to tug me back out !
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Old 7th September 2013, 12:38 AM
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K4KEV K4KEV is offline
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thats the spirit Jase...gud on yer
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  #6  
Old 8th September 2013, 01:56 AM
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alga alga is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonmotorsport View Post
Is a push start required for all motor sport in Lithuania or just in hill climbs to make it more of a challenge?
Just adjusting the El Cheapo cam in the printed rollbar bracket:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:108898 :-)
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Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations
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  #7  
Old 8th September 2013, 06:35 AM
Enoch Enoch is offline
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There are 2 things missing in your photo Albert - a driver and a pair of roller skates
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  #8  
Old 9th September 2013, 03:30 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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At the end of your build remember these two things, Built not bought and I made this !
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Cost : Little as possible.
Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed.
Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!!


If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving...

No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice.
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