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#1
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![]() I have made the second attempt to get my Gillham side panels to fit today, and I have decided to throw them in the skip. I don't see why I have to cut the bottom angle off to get them to sit nicely without the side panel distorting. Well pissed off, while I am at it, I may wang the bonnet as well. The panels are not made thick enough in my opinion, they flex very very easy. Really peed off, but after getting the build looking really nice, I don't want to spoil it by putting sub standard stuff on my car. Wish that I payed a little more & got an agm kit, the quality looks amazing on Chris' car. There is a company down Plymouth direction that sell healey 3000 replica moulds that fit the haynes roadster with the use of out riggers. I love the look of it, and may make a u turn & change direction. Wish that I hadn't wasted a load of cash on sub standard stuff. On the upside, my gaz coilovers from Rally Design will be here tomorrow, amazing service, cheap as chips !
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#2
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![]() Hi Jason,
The AGM kit is nicely made, and is nice and thick and well finished. However I've had some issues with my side panels fitting with the returns aswell, it might be chassis tolerance issues and or bodywork issues.
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Build Cost so far £xxx (Given up adding it up) - She Starts!! Build Thread Here: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5501 |
#3
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![]() had to cut my bottom panels as well but still got them to fit tho
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#4
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![]() Bet that hurt !
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#5
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#6
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![]() I had the same problem with my Saturn sides. I had to cut the lip off where the chassis changes direction.
Also my first nose one fit perfectly under the bottom rail. My replacement one I had to make some brackets as the bottom lip wouldn't go under the bottom rail. |
#7
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![]() Quote:
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#8
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![]() Just for people that are reading this and getting confused over which kit this is, as there's plenty of different names being throw in. It's Equinox.
The side panels have a 2 inch return which you can trim so it perfectly matches your top rails. It also allows a bit more leverage to get side panels on, if tight. When I fitted mine they had to fit over the chassis, floor sheet (2mm Ali) and quite largish rivets. They were fairly tight but went on fine without cutting lips off ![]()
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http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13110 - Z20LET into a Roadster http://s775.photobucket.com/user/ben...?sort=6&page=1 |
#9
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![]() I will make a note of this and use countersunk rivets along the outside edge of the chassis rails when I put the floor in. Thanks for the pointers.
Bob
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#10
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![]() Quote:
Do you mean you fitted the floor first - then later on fitted the bodywork? If so - does this mean you drilled through the floor and rail to be able to rivet the body work on? And if so - what spacing of rivets did you use for the floor - and what spacing for the bodywork?
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http://meandthekitcar.wordpress.com/ |
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