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#1
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![]() Sorry for the short reply earlier, I was queuing for some food at a show. I used aluminium ones on all of my car as they are easier to set than the stainless ones.
If you look carefully along the top edge of the bulkhead you can see how many fixings I put in, they went straight into rivnuts on the scuttle lip. These rivnuts were put straight into the grp and I haven't had any problems yet (only done 100miles). I also ended up using m6 stainless hex head bolts as its much easier to get a spanner into most places than an allen key. ![]() |
#2
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![]() Quote:
![]() So this afternoon, I finished the work. I was planning to use the ally rivnuts as Paul suggested too, but I had only 5 left, so I finally used my plated steel countersunk ones. And it looks to be working pretty well. ![]() IMG_0204 par Voucht71, sur Flickr ![]() IMG_0206 par Voucht71, sur Flickr I also prefer using hex head bolts, but when they are visible, I prefer the dome head bolts because they are better looking, even if, as you say, they are much less easy to handle because of the allen key. So now, the 2 side panels are on, as well as the scuttle, bulkhead and nose cone. I hope I can finish the rear tube tomorrow, and perhaps the rear arches this week-end! Thank you very much for the help.
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Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://caferacer-kawa-gpz-zx550.blogspot.com/ |
#3
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![]() For the hex bolts I meant, scuttle to top rail, nose cone to top rail, bottom of the side panels to the chassis and inside the arches.
Any bits that would be seen like side panels to top rail I used countersunk stainless Allen bolts. |
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