Haynes Forums  

Go Back   Haynes Forums > Haynes Roadster Forums > Chassis
FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12th May 2013, 05:34 AM
thailoz thailoz is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Thailand
Posts: 140
Default fixing a steel floor

Ok I know I am ways away yet but trying to plan ahead I am going to use a steel floor

I was thinking 1 mm thick reason is mostly cost. 2mm Ali is nearly £100 a sheet here

I don't want to weld as I am worried about it looking like the ocean waves when finished ,
so I was thinking about riveting it that way I could use galvanized steel .

Would I require any special rivets ?
__________________
My build diary is at http://thailoz.wordpress.com/
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12th May 2013, 09:16 AM
twinturbo's Avatar
twinturbo twinturbo is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 4,393
Default

I just used normal rivets with my Ali floor.

But I would recommend using something like Sikaflex or Tigerseal. It would probably do the job on it's own!

TT
__________________
You only get a woosh with a dump valve

Build Thread


Man Cave Mantiques



Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle




Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12th May 2013, 10:22 AM
Talonmotorsport's Avatar
Talonmotorsport Talonmotorsport is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Southminster Essex
Posts: 1,323
Default

I would not use 1mm for the floor as by the time you have stepped on the section in front of the seats a few times you will end up with a nice bowl shape. I would go with 1.6mm and make it a one piece job with a cut out for the bellhousing as it's the only thing that ties one side of the chassis to the other.
Remember to use stainless 4mm or 5mm rivets with mild steel every 50mm -75mm, if you use ali rivets they will react with the mild when they get wet, and theres no such thing as using too much stickerflex/tigerseal.
If you can stretch to it these will make short work of of it to...


__________________
Website http://www.talonmotorfabrication.co.uk/

Direct email phil@talonmotorfabrication.co.uk

talonmotorfabrication@gmail.com

Mobile office hours 07514098334
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12th May 2013, 10:36 AM
twinturbo's Avatar
twinturbo twinturbo is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Carlisle
Posts: 4,393
Default

I used a Lazy riviter and it was easy work.

TT
__________________
You only get a woosh with a dump valve

Build Thread


Man Cave Mantiques



Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle




Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12th May 2013, 01:19 PM
Eternal Eternal is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Bournemouth, Dorset
Posts: 599
Default

I went 2mm steel floor and welded it all around in sections. It has a slight ripple but nothing too bad. Tbh i prefer to have the extra strength you can see how it dips in a little.

__________________
Build Cost: .............. lost count a while back.

Skyline Roadster
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12th May 2013, 02:38 PM
thailoz thailoz is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Thailand
Posts: 140
Default

Thanks guys good advise


Phil with regards to the Front frame

am I correct in saying you cut ff2 at 13 degrees then weld together once in the jig to keep the faces at 90 degrees
__________________
My build diary is at http://thailoz.wordpress.com/
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12th May 2013, 06:59 PM
Talonmotorsport's Avatar
Talonmotorsport Talonmotorsport is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Southminster Essex
Posts: 1,323
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thailoz View Post
Thanks guys good advise


Phil with regards to the Front frame

am I correct in saying you cut ff2 at 13 degrees then weld together once in the jig to keep the faces at 90 degrees
Yes the angles are 13' at the top of FF2 and FF3 with the outer sides 90' to the base of your jig. If you screw/weld two perfect 90' cubes to your jig then clamp FF2 + FF3 to them this will help later when you come to fit your top suspension brackets.
__________________
Website http://www.talonmotorfabrication.co.uk/

Direct email phil@talonmotorfabrication.co.uk

talonmotorfabrication@gmail.com

Mobile office hours 07514098334
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12th May 2013, 11:33 PM
thailoz thailoz is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Thailand
Posts: 140
Default

thanks again I will give the a try
__________________
My build diary is at http://thailoz.wordpress.com/
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 13th May 2013, 08:03 AM
mgglep's Avatar
mgglep mgglep is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: leicestershire
Posts: 212
Default

You may also consider using sealed rivets as these don't let water into the box section
__________________
17.07.10 "Now i know the meaning of life"
My Build pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/67605695@N04/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97412063@N08/
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:29 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.