To Pulse or not to Pulse?

[Deanno]

Currently I just happen to be welding 25mm by 2mm thick box in work for missile launcher trolleys and in certain places i have to pulse it rather than do a run.
just so i know when it come to my chassis assembly.
I know the pulse does not give you as much heat and penetration.

Just thought id ask what your preferred methods are?

Cheers
Dean

[shh120m]

What's pulsing? Sorry mate I'm a bit thick

[Talonmotorsport]

Why are you having to pulse on 2mm material what are you using MMA MIG TIG? If you have the heat/amps set correct and the correct feed rate or filler rod you should have no problems getting a run, I MIG all my chassis and they are 16gauge. The only material I pulse is 0.8-1mm car panels when I'm using MIG.

[Deanno]

I'm using Mag/Mig the only reason i was pulsing was for awkward joints.

Thanks for your input.

Pulsing is where you blip or zap the trigger so you are doing small spots not a constant run.

regards
dean

[Bonzo]

I would normally go for a single run Dean.

If trying to to fill wide gaps you don't really have any alternative to trigger blipping .... Well that is bar, trying vertical down run

You can get some decent penetration by pulsing if you up the current a fair bit ( A bit like you should for a nice hot tack weld )

Is there a particular joint that is causing you a problem ?

[Deanno]

no not started yet waiting to move into the new house with a big garage
I'm currently welding missile launcher trolleys in work and i was just wondering.

cheers for all the input

Dean

[Talonmotorsport]

If you have to fill large gaps it's either because you've blown holes in the job or the prep work is shaby, corner cutting adds to weld failure. This why all of our wishbones tubes are machine profiled with a mill not just cut on the saw and filled in.

[flyerncle]

Pulse welding is good on carbody steel for obvious reasons,thin metal.

You are not really pulse welding though as they are special and expensive mig sets that do that with tricky electronics, you can't do the same by clicking away on the trigger......that in my book is called "tacking"

[Bonzo]

Originally Posted by Talonmotorsport

If you have to fill large gaps it's either because you've blown holes in the job or the prep work is shaby, corner cutting adds to weld failure. This why all of our wishbones tubes are machine profiled with a mill not just cut on the saw and filled in.

Sorry Phil mate, I have to take exception to that statement if I may !!??

Incorrect welding procedure leads to weld failure .... Shabby fitting joints can be made good with the correct weld procedure ( Obviosly propper prep is desireable )

Your statement also seems to imply that anyone not using a milling machine to cut the compound mitres is somehow doing a shabby job, a gross insult to the folks that know how to use their tools

In my humble opinion, using a mill to cut the compound mitres is like using a sledge hammer to crack a nut

Nothing wrong with a simple hacksaw, bandsaw, compound mitre saw or even a grinder .... It's purely down to the users ability to make correct use of the tool in question !!??

Methinks you could do with a spell working in a dockyard doing some propper plate work, you'll soon learn how to cope with gap filling

BTW

Never had a ship sink yet through a weld failure