New Build thread

[K4KEV]

Hi peeps
Finally decided it is time to start my build thread....official like...now is this the right place to start one as I do not have a website or blog.
Anyways....been lurking for long enough.
Got me donor 1.6 pinto powered sierra, ....got me chassis steel,......got me welder an big gas bottle (awaiting delivery of a auto welding bone dome)
Got me ANIMAL engine that will go in after IVA a CA18DET 1.8 turbo from a nissan 200sx but need to check if it needs a crank regrind as they are well famous for the big ends going usually due to drifffffting:rolleyes:
got me 8 x 4 plywood to make table, got me workspace 1/2 a double garage and big shed (12' x 24') important bit(actually very very) the wifes blessing:eek:
and now the bestest bit .....awaiting a nice new shiny shiny traffic red and black 10 piece body kit from you know who S..A..T..U..R..N ...yaaaaaaaayy feel like a kid in a toy shop......had to sell loads of gear to save for that...and got in before price hike (cheers for that Andy) so piccys soon to follows build table to start with .....well I think that might be the best place to start;)

[Headshot]

Good luck :D

I have started the hard way..... Build table built..... few components scrounged/"aquired"

Sounds like you are well on the way :)

Cracking engine btw :D What gearbox are you using? the donor?

[K4KEV]

Good luck :D

I have started the hard way..... Build table built..... few components scrounged/"aquired"

Sounds like you are well on the way :)

Cracking engine btw :D What gearbox are you using? the donor?
re the g/box .....200sx box as well which looks similar dimension wise to the type 9 .....must check that before building trans tunnel. Engine .... yes I know, there is a huge range of tuning gear now available for it, but at 180bhp as standard I do not think I will need to up it .....perhaps NOS to eliminate any turbo lag

[twinturbo]

Oooh... Black and red, will look a bit Like Coozers motor. Not another Orange one :D

Still got to decide on my colours..

TT

[spud69]

Thats a good start Kevin - will be good to be able to read another build blog.

TK has just received a red body set too but his is all red - seems to be the second most popular colour.

AndyH

[tkpm]

Thanks to Andy, I have my red body work sitting in my workshop waiting to be fitted.
I could not make my mind up between black and red or just red, but went for just red in the end, but i'm going to put a black satin strips down the the bonnet.

Terry

[Eternal]

Fantastic another nissan nutter! i will keep an eye on your build :D love the ca18's

[Headshot]

re the g/box .....200sx box as well which looks similar dimension wise to the type 9 .....must check that before building trans tunnel. Engine .... yes I know, there is a huge range of tuning gear now available for it, but at 180bhp as standard I do not think I will need to up it .....perhaps NOS to eliminate any turbo lag


Want to shift your donor box? :D (pm'd)

[K4KEV]

Hi Chris....pm repied to

[mark]

I know you still need a few components for your engine and i was talking to a friend of a friend the other day who strips a few jap motors, anyway he has an engine and gearbox with all the ancillaries, think its got a rebuilt turbo too.

I can give you his no. if you want it, not sure how much he charges for things though, but may be worth a look as he is only in stockton too.

[K4KEV]

Hi Mark
I did give Jap City a bell but he only had s14's in, so yes please pm me his name and no....what could be better than having 2 engines liying around the garage:eek: think I might start a CA shop, seen the first few bits of body work the other the day when I popped in to settle up with Andy...I think I defo made the right choice with Traffic red & black...better calm down here I'm getting a woody:o

[mark]

I have sent you a Pm

[K4KEV]

Thanks Mark will defo be checking that out

[K4KEV]

It has taken me a while to get started but here are the very first things I have fabricated for the roadster.....a pair of quite blingy mushrooms in a rather dashing cobalt blue.....took me best part of 2 days as I really took my time and made sure of all dimensions, all to the figures of a part somewhere in the forum.....not only that I have anodised them to prevent any electrolitical corrosion (disimilar metals + current + road salt ) which I had once on a citroen bx hydro ram, I might be looking at knocking a few out for sale, but not sure of price yet ......just testing the water....really enjoyed making them, lathe work in very satisfying mentally
As well as my sierra I now have a 200sx that has been partially broken but I should glean a lot of useful parts from it for when I put the ca18det engine in.
here's the mushy's
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01139.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01143.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01142.jpg

[K4KEV]

And so the saga begins.....a couple of days ago I had a few bits of timber to hoy together, so after a lot of sawing and screwing:eek: I now have a fully flat and zeroed table....spent tonight putting the dimensions onto the board and managed to cut a couple of bits of steel....the relief of starting is immense. I hope to post regularly during the project.
K4
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0001.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0003.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0005.jpg

[twinturbo]

Nice Mushrooms

TT

[spud69]

They are very nice musshys, got a pair in here that Kevin made. Very nice anodising and well made.

Glad to see you have started Kevin, look forward to more pics.

Cheers...AndyH

[HandyAndy]

nice work Kev :cool:

your build table looks nice enough to use as a dining table after the build :D

best wishes for your build, look forward to your build updates.

cheers
andy

[K4KEV]

Ta for the compliments guys.....aint no way I am going to be posting every day but while I have the bit between my teeth here is a 24hr later update
metal bandsaws don't half rock
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0007.jpg

picking that real nasty angle on BR8/9 and using a steel rule to transfer to steel
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0009.jpg
ready to start tacking maybe tomoz
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0012.jpg

tidied up a bit
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0011.jpg
even at this early stage it is easy to say the metal bandsaw is THE tool for cutting box section and anything else come to that.
did have more piccies but I understand I am limited to 4 per post suppose I could have just posted again.
need to get a little practice on the welding front as it is some 30 yrs since I welded in anger and that was stick on steel upwards of 12mm thick and usually around 300-375 amps. I have used my mig for small bits and pieces it is only 130amps but is fan cooled and does not cut out.....need to calm down ...I am buzzin at the mo
ttfn...gonna have me a pint.

[Deanno]

I like the idea you have done with the most used tools hanging on the side of the bench. a simple idea but an effective one.

[HandyAndy]

Nice work Kev, looks like you are really enjoying yourself :D

as you are close to welding some bits together......depending on which gearbox you are fitting, keep an eye on where you place part "U7", its easy to place it in the slightly wrong place ;) :)

keep the piccies coming...when you get chance or have put the welding torch down long enough:D

cheers
andy

[alga]

Yeah, yeah, most chassis build pics I've seen had had U7 in the wrong place! Mine too!

[K4KEV]

After trying to get some practice migging in before I work on chassis I have come to the conclusion that my el cheapo regulator is not up to the job....so a quick look on fleabay tossed up a very expensive looking regulator that was due to end around 2 ish this morning....well I aint stopping up for that so I chucked a cheeky £10 bid on it....and yes you guessed it , I won......for £5.99p :eek: (£10 postage tho) so tacking up might be on hold now till next week.
Ok then do dome other stuff I think, I'm going to make another set of mushies and will be anodising in red this time to match the bodywork, can cut some steel as well, or break the doner, bloody hell where to turn next:D

[spud69]

Well done Kevin, looks like we've got another HAndy on our hands - or we're ll tight gits up north.

Them red mushies (must be magic ones) will look good in red.

All the Breast.....AndyH

[K4KEV]

Well done Kevin, looks like we've got another HAndy on our hands - or we're ll tight gits up north.

Them red mushies (must be magic ones) will look good in red.

All the Breast.....AndyH

course we're all tight gits up ere:D ....I thought that was just common knowledge:rolleyes:

[K4KEV]

the overwhelming urge to start the chassis was too much, so I nabbed an old oxy gauge I had lying around and rigged up my mig and after a little mucking around with flow rates I got what I was listening/looking for.....that familiar cackle you get when a mig set up is running right.....test piece looks like a modern sculpture
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0018.jpg
And so another roadster is being born.....so far I have not cocked up any measurements, angles are all coming out flush, everything is staying put. Up to now I am having a dream start and progressing well.... here is where I am at with the chassis so far.
Decided to use the build table itself to do the front frame
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0015.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0017.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0016.jpg

[AshG]

Looks like you need to up the amps and the gas a little more looking at those test bits. chassis is growing very nicely :D

[twinturbo]

always nice to see a chassis growing :)

TT

[K4KEV]

Yeah I know Ash....had it turned down a little just for tacking, Intend to ramp it up some for full welding of the chassis
Hi TT it's much nicer when its your own:D

[K4KEV]

Another few rails added mainly the seatback area.....finding very much like meccano without the holes, nut & bolts great fun even enjoying cutting the steel (something no one seems to enjoy)
heres another couple of pics
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0033-1.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0034-1.jpg

[K4KEV]

few more bit added......those bloody D1s and 2's are real buggers :mad: with those compound angles.....but got there in the end.
When is the best time to start fully welding the chassis ? before shifting it forwards or after.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0037.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0036.jpg

[rpjg1975]

Making progress there... I tack welded the whole chassis together including the transmission tunnel and steering support before I started fully welding as I needed to start moving the chassis around to fully weld all the little awkward to get areas :)

[K4KEV]

Okay.....lets play spot the cock up!!!!:eek: these last two pics have a glaringly obvious boo boo that I have now rectified, I,m sure one of the Andy's will spot it.
Glad I found it before it is fully welded.

[HandyAndy]

Okay.....lets play spot the cock up!!!! these last two pics have a glaringly obvious boo boo that I have now rectified, I,m sure one of the Andy's will spot it.
Glad I found it before it is fully welded.

I,ve just got my laptop back from being reconfigured :confused: whatever that means

I like a challenge so had to respond to this......

I reckon the error is that the 2 SB4,s are in the wrong place ;)

May I ask what the 2 pieces of steel in the foreground on the table are? are they parts SB5 & SB6 ? can,t quite see the compound angle in the photo :)

Nice work there Kev :cool:

cheers
andy

[K4KEV]

Well done bud....I thought if anyone would get this it would be Handy, yep its my one and only cock up thus far but like I said already rectified and sb4's moved further in to the corect 178mm apart and not 178mm to either side of C/L......yes Handy sb5 & 6 thats what they are but I have not yet completed the compound angle that goes to sb2 should be fun getting it right
I have spoken to a guy down in Blackhall Rocks who is going to supply me with 6m of 25mm and 6m of 19mm seamless tube for £40:D
hope to get a good few hrs on the chassis this week.
ttfn
K4

[HandyAndy]

Kev...

A little tip....( sorry if it sounds like teaching granma to suck eggs )

When cutting the compound angles on SB5 & SB6......totally ignore the 17degree "View B" in the cutting diagram on page 166,

the 17 degree,s is what you actually end up creating by making the compund cut 52 degree,s / 27 degree,s.

lay the tube on the table in the position as in the diagram, bottom sketch, ( as you have already cut the 52 degree angle) then turn the steel 1 flat away from you then scribe the 27 degree angle on the uppermost face( upper sketch), then turn it back 2 flats towards you, scribe the 27 degree line from top right hand point of the steel ( scribe line goes from top right down to bottom left ), then turn steel 1 flat away from you and use a steel ruler to scribe the 2 lines together.

When cutting it, cut each scribe line on 1 flat at a time, turning the steel in the vice to complete each cut......result = perfect compound angle.

Hope this helps,

The other side is in opposite hand.

cheers
andy

[K4KEV]

Update
Cheers for the tip Handy.....I have already been using an almost identical method as you describe and I agree it works very well.
Now approaching some of the CP's and as usual I search and scour the shed,loft and garage for 3mm plate and find one piece so annother hunt in the shed throws up a compressor tank that is box shaped, I check the thickness of the plate and yep it is 3mm .....champion me thinks as I know I have another one of these lying around somewhere, should be enough to get all of the 3mm components cut out. Cutting it was going to be a pain in the harris but then me thinks.......open the bandsaw and use it like a powered fretsaw.... flippin heck, what do ya know!....it works and now working my way through all the CP parts.
so heres a few more pics

new old stock compressor tank butchered for 3mm plate

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0051.jpg

using my metal bandsaw as a powered fretsaw
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0050.jpg

chassis continuing to grow
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0052.jpg

[HandyAndy]

Nice work Kev :cool:

Very "Thrifty" using the old compressor steel :D

Your chassis is looking great, its soon coming to life .....

question???? have you sat in the drivers seat area yet? :D :p

sorry if my "tip" was teaching granma to suck eggs ....

cheers
andy

[K4KEV]

I am so tempted Andy ...I don't think it will be long before I do the ritualistic sit in and brum brum it air steering wheel style.
I will always be grateful of any tips Andy..... wether I know them or not so do not let that stop you from offering advice, all advice is invaluable with a project like this and the willingness of people on this forum to share thier tips, cock ups etc will make this build much easier than it ought to be.
Think I might be "mushrooming" tomoz coz I have just recieved my red anodizing dye this morning, will post piccies when finished them.

[HandyAndy]

I am so tempted Andy ...I don't think it will be long before I do the ritualistic sit in and brum brum it air steering wheel style.




Think I might be "mushrooming" tomoz coz I have just recieved my red anodizing dye this morning, will post piccies when finished them.

The air steering wheel just "has " to be done :D

If you are "mushrooming".....for goodness sake , don,t show the photos to Ronnie :eek: he,ll end up doing himself a mischief :D

Keep up the great work, will have to pop up sometime for a cuppa & a Natter :cool:

cheers
andy

[locostkiwi]

chassis is looking real good , just a couple of questions what size mig are you using i have a 170amp single phase, and also what thickness is your 25x25 SHS,
cant wait to start my chassis im going to start mine over xmas hoildays ,i will get 2 weeks off and its Summer over here in New Zealand.
Havnt got a donor yet but will build chassis to suit a book specs.
Anyway looks great so far, keep up the good work.
cheers Tony:)

[K4KEV]

G'day Tony.....my mig is a modest 130 amp machine on a Argon/co2 mix, I think you will be more than ok with 170 amps on tap.
The bible :rolleyes: says 1.6 mm wall thickness for the shs but most people over here are using 2mm wall thickness (substantial gain in strength for not a lot of extra wieght)
I can never get my head around it being xmas over there in NZ and AU in the middle of summer, any way Tony, get started now ....its amazing how much you can get done with a 30 minute session here and there, it does not take long to eat,breath and sleep "roadster":eek:

[Bonzo]

If you are "mushrooming".....for goodness sake , don,t show the photos to Ronnie :eek: he,ll end up doing himself a mischief :D

cheers
andy

Ohhhh ..... Red Anodised Mushrooms, I have just come over all warm & fuzzy :o :D

[HandyAndy]

Ohhhh ..... Red Anodised Mushrooms, I have just come over all warm & fuzzy

Told ya :D :D
If its red, Ronnie goes all gooey eyed :D

cheers
andy

[K4KEV]

OK Ronnie.......have the tissues at the ready.....here they are my lucious red anodised mushies not a pair just some trials but perfectly usable not sure which style to go for yet, but thats the beauty of making your own, might even try gold next....well yellow actually.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0057.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSCF0055.jpg

[spud69]

Looks really good Kevin, for my preference i like the colour and style of the style on the left. The pair you made for Saturn are still looking good and are about to go on the Mazda chassis to go on show down at Stafford....Cheers

Will have to come and have a look at your progress when things settle down a bit....:confused:

Regards.....AndyH

[Bonzo]

Cracking stuff there Kev :)

Besides the practical advantages of anodizing it certainly adds that super cool, bling factor :cool:


Like Spud, I too like the Red on the left.
That said, I would not say no to a pair of those in either shade :)

Definately up for a pair of those in Red should you produce any spare sets :)

[K4KEV]

thanks for the kind comments lads,;)
Ronnie.....chances are I will be knocking out a few sets if anything to help finance my build (unemployed hence the use of any scrap I can find) and I still have 2.5 metres of 50mm ally bar lying around so just let me know when and if you would like them, Incidently they are to the specs from a drawing on here somewhere just the tops are shaped differently.
Andy...hope you have a productive weekend down at Stafford feel free to plug my mushies....and your always welcome to pop around anytime....the "new" eye is sometimes beneficial at spotting mishaps (I hope there bloody well arn't any) might need to come down and "borrow time" on your susp jigs soon.:rolleyes:

[locostkiwi]

hey K4kev those mushies look great, if i paid for some over the internet into your bank account would you be keen to make me a pair and send them over to here ( christchurch New Zealand ) ?
Think i may have soruced a pair of Sierra front uprights ( very rare over here).

[K4KEV]

No problem Tony ...sent you a PM with info

[Bonzo]

PM sent to you Kev :)

[K4KEV]

Wupeeeeee....got me stuff from 3ge, caused bit of a mental barrier waiting...I know I could have got on on with other jobs but could not get it into my head that I NEEDED the stuff I bought.
Made one of my first bones ....worst one as well, being bottom rear....was very tempted just to do it ladder style ie get rid of that diagonal, but no I persevered. Tube mitre is very good but it still requires you to 'fettle' quite a lot, as using the tube thickness in the app would render it way to thin at the edges to mig so I guess everyone else has found a "halfy halfe" remedy to satisfy the critical dimensions and yes mine distorted too when fully welded but a little "heat line treatment" (a neat trick I learned at the shipyards)
brought the tubes back in spec to the mm .....in effect it cancels out the initial weld contraction so a few pics
using the cnc'd wooden jig

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01178.jpg



more than a couple of mm out should be 206
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01179.jpg
heat line treatment (has to be cooled immediatly with water but not dipped)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01180.jpg
three of these treatments and a couple of strategically placed wedges and were right on the money no brute force used
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01184.jpg
Next stage should be interesting as I intend to nickel plate the bushes and the 1st inch or so of tube for the ultimate in corrosion resistance.

[mark]

Looks more like 205.62mm to me not 206!! :D ;)

Good work

I was gonna try heat rather than brute force when i corrected my distortion but im impatient so went with the latter!

[K4KEV]

Gonna buy you a dicky comb:D :D

[K4KEV]

Well....been away from the build for a few months trying to master the art of electroplating (see separate thread on Nickel plating) but because of the plating op turned out so well it has given me a boost so I have been back into the garage and re established the build.....so far in the last couple of days I have made up the rear tub 1" bracing since I am going to use the glass tub and today I got stuck into cutting the trans tunnel sections so will be constructing that tomorrow.....
just a couple of piccies
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01252.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01251-1.jpg

[Bonzo]

Looks like you are making some good proress there :cool:

Tis strange how easy it is to get stuck in the mindeset of " I must finish this part before I move on " :)

Been thinking about having another crack at electro plating at some point .... Got as far as basic copper plating, then got hacked off trying to find the chemicals to take things further ( Had wanted to do some chrome plating )

Well done on your progress to date :)

[K4KEV]

Cheers Ronnie....did consider chrome, but too many nasty chemicals involved to get it spot on.... nickel baths you can even put your hand in (dropped a tube in once had to fish it out) as long as you wash it straight away. Gateros plating and caswell do the best kits but as I discovered the most important ability is to be able to control the dc volts and current.

[K4KEV]

Bin a while now since my last update....(too cold for the shed) Anyways since becoming pretty good at nickel plating....I sensed it was time to put it to full use on me bones dem bones dem bones dem dry.... sorry couldn't help that.
I had made a start on them before but not with the object of completing them, so a week ago I set about finishing them off......not finished yet but here is a sneak preview....I have to confess to getting totally carried away as you can see.....final picture is of a totally completed front upper wishbone nickel plated ends only sprayed traffic red (bodywork colour) clear lacquered and polybushed up, mega satisfied with the result and now working my way through the other 7

so this is what the bones looked like at the start
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01267.jpg

now a bit of welding..grinding..welding..grinding etc etc

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC01291.jpg

extremities now nickel plated (2hrs per each session)
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC01297.jpg

painted, lacquered and bushed up and soon to be wrapped in cotton wool
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC01313.jpg

[HandyAndy]

WOW Kev......that looks stunning :cool: :cool:

Cotton wool needed indeed, the bones will look great on your Roadster , nice work mate :cool:

cheers
andy

[gingea1pom]

They look fantastic, never ceases to amaze me how different the same thing can be, if you know what I mean.

Cheers Ginge

[Bonzo]

If I were a Top Gear presenter, I would definately say that those belong in the " Sub Zero " section of the cool wall :cool: :)

Amazing what a bit of creative talent can achieve.

Well done Kev, nice to see something different, one of those things that make you think " Damn, why didn't I think of that " :)

[K4KEV]

Ta for the nice comments guys:) ...it does spur you on, been busy with the upper rears today, not quite as elaborate, but still got "the treatment" lacquer is drying as I type so piccies will go up tomoz .
Front lower wishbone should be interesting, not sure what I will come up with for that, still in me heed I think, a few days and we shall see:rolleyes:

[K4KEV]

Had a busy and pleasant day beefing up my original welds on my rear lower bones, and also fitted the poly bushes to my other completed bones so now have complete front upper and rear upper bones that now look like this :-
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01315.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01316.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01314.jpg
will post more piccies of completed items as I go

[Eternal]

Holy!.......... Sooooo when are you starting my wishbones? :D

[minicountryman1961]

Do you have a favorite resource on the Interwebs for technical advice on nickel plating?

I have a classic old bicycle that I would love to plate the headtube on. The owner of our local plating shop went to prison for environmental crimes related to the dumping of nasty chemicals., so I have been at a loss as to where to get it done.

Thanks



Cheers Ronnie....did consider chrome, but too many nasty chemicals involved to get it spot on.... nickel baths you can even put your hand in (dropped a tube in once had to fish it out) as long as you wash it straight away. Gateros plating and caswell do the best kits but as I discovered the most important ability is to be able to control the dc volts and current.

[K4KEV]

Hi Mcm Check out my other thread on nickel plating.
I found that Gateros plating on Ebay to be a very good source for the required chemicals and their kits are reasonably priced, another is caswell plating.
The most important thing as far as I was concerned was the ability to "dial in"
the voltage and current by using a "lab supply" or rectifier, it took a lot of trial and error and in retrospect wish I had gone for the "plating kit"
hope this helps you.
K4

[K4KEV]

Holy!.......... Sooooo when are you starting my wishbones? :D
Eternal.....seriously, you don't wanna know how much it would take (you'd need a effin mortgage)......enjoyable to do, but only once :D

[Eternal]

haha yeah im sticking to the epoxy mastic 121 then a coat of hammerite :D

[bertie_bas205]

I was going to buy a "ready made" chassis, now i'm thinking of making my own....

Keep up the good work...




Bertie.

[Bonzo]

Fantasic stuff there Kev :) :cool:

Just printed those pictures .... Just off with a box of tissues, I may be gone for some time :D :o

[JakeH]

those look so damn cool!

me wants some!!!!! but being a cheapskate has its drawbacks :D

[Eternal]

was thinking today of doing something the same but then realised its not worth it. These are by far the best wishbones i have ever seen for any car ever. It seems a shame to put them on a car and get dirty!

[K4KEV]

After trolling the Bay for seats, several months now, my patience has paid off when I managed to win these very clean pair of corbeau's complete with 4 point harness's and very low level runners included and as usual I did not fork out a fortune for them @ £175. They will go on my ever increasing pile of parts.
The big bonus of course is their colour......red & black same as me bodywork though I do need some black harness covers preferably with red writing.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01351.jpg


http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01352.jpg

and those very low profile runners

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01353.jpg

[CTWV50]

Inspirational thread! Like it a lot!:)

[K4KEV]

Cheers Chris....I'll bet your raring to go too, even handier now that Spud has the mx roadster just about sorted.

[CTWV50]

Yes indeed, I have a lot to do before I get started on the build so I'm up early on a weekend to get cracking!:)

[K4KEV]

rightyo...back to progress on my blingy bones.....the front bottom bones were always going to be difficult to get "looking good" or should I say looking the way I want them to look.....as before grind, weld, grind, weld, grind ..polish, I have also welded a small strip on the underside close to and over the bend line, as Spud mentioned this to be an area that MAY suffer from bending, so I'm playing safe.
Managed to acquire (via the Bay of course) a quantity of very hard dremel grindstones which have made the job 10 times easier, not finished this one yet but will post piccies as I go

The raw welded lower wishbone less shock bracket
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01322.jpg

Ground and polished and awaiting shock bracket to be fixed and welded (bracket welds will be getting "the treatment" as well)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01345.jpg

[Bonzo]

Looking forward to seeing the completed results mate :)

That is a huge coincidence, here's one I made earlier

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/100_0682.jpg

Looks like we have been working on the same job mate but there will be no prizes for guessing which ones will look the best once completed .... Your wishbones Rock :cool:

The seats were a great find, just as well I didn't spot them, we would have ended up in a bidding war :o

[K4KEV]

beauty of it is Ronnie ....they FIT albeit with 8mm worth of persuasion either side,:rolleyes: my last bid was £180 and I would not have gone over it so bidding war not
I set my target and do NOT let my heart rule my bidding.....don't care how much I want/need;)

[K4KEV]

Update on my wishbone saga.....I am now within a day or so of completing all my wishbones and although I am well well chuffed with the results, I now wish I had not "gone to town" on them as it means the rest of the car is going to have to do them credit, .....in for a penny in for a pound eh!.
This completed lower front wishbone is complete apart from fitting the bushes.
It will be nice to move back in the garage and get some work done on the chassis.....been that long I will have to check the bible to see where I got up to, I think it as chassis plates....will keep the update coming as I go
here are some pics.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01355.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01356.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01357.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01358.jpg

[Bonzo]

That is looking so funky Kev :cool:

Green with envy mate .... How can I compete with that !!

Ohh I know, I'll pop down to Cornish Goldsmiths & have mine plated in 24 ct Gold :eek: :D

Going to look fab when they are on your build, that's for sure :)

[K4KEV]

Have only just noticed the clear lacquer "runs" in the photo's.......not having any of that ...will have to wet & dry those back, I know they are not very noticeable , trouble is I know they are there, which is enough for me to want to "fix it". note : must improve my rattle can technique:D

[deezee]

How did you manage to get the 10 degree bend in the wishbone plate? Its really hard to see the bend line, is it rolled?

[K4KEV]

hi dz, they were 3ge plates so the 10 degree bend is there just not very noticeable.....its probably just the way I finished the ends of the tubes, the built up weld kind of extends past the point of the bend line

[K4KEV]

Yo peeps....just a wee update....finally can say my Wishbones are complete and will be put to one side now while I try to get back to fitting some cp components to the chassis and try to head towards the fully welding stage.
here are the finished items

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/bones006.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/bones008.jpg


http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/bones007.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01357.jpg

[Eternal]

Those are stunning! Amazing work. Sooooo the big question is are you going to do the same kind of thing with the chassis? heh

[K4KEV]

Not quite:( ......however I do have a few ideas in general that will probably raise a few eyebrows tacky things like a clear cover for the cam sprocket cover along with a nice set of red verniers..... I do believe there was one on driftworks that would have fitted your RB I'll have to make mine as I don't think they did the CA18DET I do have a very interesting side pipe dating from the seventies and the exhaust will be unusual as well:rolleyes:

[Eternal]

Cool i know the ones. http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists/Greddy/rb26clearcover.jpg

Nice to see another Driftworks guy here. Been on that forum for ages now think i first started posting in 2006 lol then did a username change as my car changed.

[K4KEV]

Reached an important milestone yesterday.....after fully welding everything that was weldable while the chassis was clamped to the table. The big moment came ......releasing the clamps....would it twang, bong, jump, jiggle:( .......big fat NOWT.....not a bluddy thing....bit of an anti climax....but a nice one, so I now have a nice straight chassis just a few cp plates to go yet and welding up the suspension brackets ....nearly forgot Handy.....I still have not done the air steering yet.....will sort it out just for you mate:rolleyes:

[K4KEV]

Been a bit of a go slow lately.....this time of year I have to dabble with my other passion....my garden, but just recently I decided it was time to start getting some of the refurb work done, so I started with the hubs (easiest thing to get off the sierra first.
So we start with this
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01393-1.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01392-1.jpg
Having checked for ANY play in the bearings both on and off the car, I concluded that the bearings were fine and would leave alone, so the dust cap stayed in place until the de-rust was complete. I had bought some washing soda to do the electrolysis doofa .....but on having a good inspection of the hubs the rust was in its first stages of flaking so I decided to go at it with a hammer and old screwdriver and it came off very easily....about an hour saw the heavy stuff, off now out came the 3 dremels with different grindstones in them to get in all the nooks and crannies, another hour later and it looks something like this
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01396-1.jpg
Prising the dust cap off the insides look as new as the first day they were made, the dust caps were totally fubard so I made my own replacements (see thread in another article for that)
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01419.jpg

[K4KEV]

(This hub refurb starts on page 9)
So now the hubs were ready for a lick of hammerite smooth in silver more on those later.
Now turned my attention to the discs, they werre well within the wear limit indicated by two flats(vented discs) on the outside edge of the discs job for the lathe I deem so here is the before
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01395.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01394.jpg
This time the rust was not so deep so all I need to do was to to skim them, got a good reading with the dti then proceeded to shave them just back to good metal...now apart from the edge which will be blasted they look as good as new
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01397-1.jpg
Going back to the hub carrier I mixed up 50/50 hammerite smooth with celly thinners and gave it a good 4-5 thickish coats(old dust caps lightly pressed in to keep the paint out) I will be giving them a coat of clear lacquer when all back together .....so now here is the before and after shot
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01460.jpg

[K4KEV]

(This hub refurb starts on page 9)
Another little one of my gimmecky tweeks as follows.....home made dust caps worked a treat but I fancied something different so out came a small piece of 1mm aluminium and cut it the same dia as the dust caps I made and utilising my hardwood "bowl" again
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01465.jpg
Working my way down to the bottom of the bowl and nearly finished (not)

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01466.jpg
That side done now time to turn it over and use an old duff mushroom and and the back of an old wire brush as a slapper, I gently peen the ally over the edge of the mushroom to create a false dust cap
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01467.jpg
Why I hear you ask!!!....if you have followed the making of my wishbones you will realise I have foolishly (and I mean that) set a standard I need to uphold and although it will be time consuming it is MY stamp that I am putting on it and I don't care how long it takes. Anyway heres is a piccy of said false dustcap which has been polished up.....the next time you see it ,it will be anodised a fiery red along with my anodised mushies
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01459.jpg

[Bonzo]

Just caught up with this thread Kev

The standard of your work is awesome :)

If only I had the patience to refurb stuff to such a high standard.

Have the tools & skill but tend to take the easy route by buying new stuff :o :o

Guess that is why my build is way off budget, well that & me keep changing my mind :D

[K4KEV]

Thanks for the compliment Ronnie....I wish I could be that meticulous about keeping my shed and garage tidy ...I am totally mega untidy.
Anyway I am now finished one hub completely and here is the result
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01479.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01478.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01480.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01477.jpg
needless to say I am very happy with the result especially when you consider how they looked when I first took them off the donor.....with a bit luck I will have the other one finished tomorrow, I do find it much easier when you can take a smallish part off, refurb it and put it to one side till it is ready to put to its intended use

[robo]

What a cracking job! Its attention to detail like this we should all follow, it improves the breed.

Bob

[Bonzo]

I am absolutely blown away with the high standard of that work Kev :)

Just had me Sunday lunch and to be honest, I would be proud to eat my dinner off of that hub assembly :D

If you keep up this high standard I can see me doing Roadster re-build number 3 before I have even had the IVA test :o

Very much looking forward to seeing your chassis all dressed up :cool:

[K4KEV]

[QUOTE=Bonzo;61317]

Just had me Sunday lunch and to be honest, I would be proud to eat my dinner off of that hub assembly :D



I might let you LICK it of my hubs ....but sorry no knives or forks as it would scratch the paintwork.....oh and no onion gravy....the skins are murder to wash off:p :p

[Bonzo]

[QUOTE=Bonzo;61317]

Just had me Sunday lunch and to be honest, I would be proud to eat my dinner off of that hub assembly :D



I might let you LICK it of my hubs ....but sorry no knives or forks as it would scratch the paintwork.....oh and no onion gravy....the skins are murder to wash off:p :p





Not even plastic knives & forks :D

Seriously, I really must have another go at electro plating sometime.

That anodise certainly adds the bling factor ..... Hmmm wonder how many amps it would take to anodise a swirl pot or catch tank ??

Great work Kev

[K4KEV]

I'm using a 25 amp boost charger at the mo and it is a little overkill on the small parts I am doing, however a 50 minute session gets a good depth of ano....your average 4-6 amp charger will do it in 4-6 hrs .....easiest way to do it is trial and error,,,,although if you needed some No's just ask...and I know red does it for you Ronnie;) ;)

[Ricky]

Hi everyone hi kev I just wanted to ask you on how do you do your own electro plating could you perhaps give the details on how? THANKS

[K4KEV]

Hi Ricky....all details on how I did the nickel plating here
http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5785&highlight=nickel+plating

[Ricky]

Thanks a lot kev

[Ricky]

Hi kev sorry I forgot to ask you do you do your own anodise and if so do you also have info on that or do you send your parts out for that

[K4KEV]

Hi Rick....Anodising is a lot easier... Sulphuric Acid is your electrolyte AAA always add acid to de-ionised or distilled water I used battery acid at around 15-20 percent with water ....start with lower value.... battery acid is already diluted as is
the aluminium is your anode and lead sheeting (same or more surface area as anode) as the cathode. use a largish container as your bath...I use around 2litres.... aluminium rods and wire are my hangers/conductors if it is new aluminium make sure it is very very clean (polished or not ) I use acetone as a final clean before anodising ....when finished, it will look slightly dull ...take out and clean with de ionised or distilled water then put in a dye bath (I use commercially available dye)... leave in for however long you want or whatever depth of colour you want which is a trial and error thing.... then you put in a pan of hot water on the simmer to seal the anodised layer again it is down to preference but I often use a small steam cleaner to seal. by the way you must not let the anodising bath get too hot because that will self seal before colouring stage I would say less than hand hot.... less than 50 C'.
If it is an already anodised part then you have to suspend item in a bath of caustic soda (which is fun to watch as it is vigorous and quick) to remove the original anodised layer then prep as above.....think I have covered everthing there ... google DIY anodising ....there are lots of informative sites.

[Ricky]

Thanks a lot for your help most appreciated and I shall check on the net regarding anodise once again thanks

[K4KEV]

fancied doing something different to keep up my interest so I'm embarking on the task of making my own ally fuel tank.
I have always thought the book tank was way to small so at the expense of "boot" space I have decided to make my tank in a shape that utilises the area above the diff as well.....I have also decided on 3mm aluminium which might seem overkill but I believe that in a rear end collision it is far more likely to deform rather than rupture and that in its self should create a kind of crumple zone which adds further peace of mind it will have two internal baffles to keep "slosh" down to a minimum and either a sump or swirl pot in the base to cater for fuel injection, capacity is 57.5 litres might yet add a little more to the top to bring it up to 60 not sure yet
Going to do this in my usual methodical way which to to make a cardboard mock up and when I am satisfied with that I will make a template then a sheet metal folder to initiate the construction proper....so for now here is the mock up in cardboard ...it needs a wee bit of fettling yet
if any one is interested I might be making some more but they wont be cheap due to the amount of work involved and the fact that they are 3mm thick
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01482.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01484.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01483.jpg

[d4mo]

Would the extra weight of the fuel change the handling dynamics of the car?

[deezee]

I know people don't always consider this, but with your fuel tank (regardless of its effects on handling) is going to make maintenance on the back of the car an utter swine. Also I think someone put a fuel tank above the diff and after one drive in it, changed it back (may have been AshG) It slooshes like mad.

[K4KEV]

well the way I look at it is....I don't have to fill it up full but if I was going out on a jolly I don't want to be gauge watching after 100miles and I'm not too worried about the weight issue as I'm a FB at nearly 19 stone (and yes I do still fit) and if it is really that bad.... well I just make another one... but I really do not think it will be an issue...just have to wait and see

[K4KEV]

Managed to construct a suitable sheetmetal folder to help fabricate my hefty fuel tank.....as usual I scavenge my garden,trailer,loft for bits to use....5mm angle iron came from the top of my old trailer, clamp from an old defunkt piece of t shape metal from a auto garage door closer and the handle is from a triple gang mower (one of the gang hangers) so after I put it all together to represent a folder and have now started with my tank although I will have to wait a bit now till I decide how to incorporate a sender unit to measure the vertical drop in the deepest part of the tank along with baffles.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00002.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00004.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00005.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00006.jpg

[ozzy1]

Looks good,cant wait to see it finished.:)
Just a thought; if you build a small swirl pot into the bottom you wouldnt need to baffle it.

[K4KEV]

Hi oz...putting a swirlpot /sump in anyway as my engines a turbo... the baffles will be to reduce slosh and help keep the centre of gravity of the tank from large deflections to the left or right helping to reduce the chances of the back end wanting to let loose

[spud69]

Hi oz...putting a swirlpot /sump in anyway as my engines a turbo... the baffles will be to reduce slosh and help keep the centre of gravity of the tank from large deflections to the left or right helping to reduce the chances of the back end wanting to let loose

That's looking real good Kevin, just what the roadster needs.

Shall have to come through for a butchers when i get chance.

Andrew

[K4KEV]

yep..you know your'e always welcome for a biccy & a cuppa

[sven8t4]

Wow Kev that looks brilliant.....what sort of capacity is it?

Sven

[K4KEV]

Hi Sven after a rehash of the exact shape I wanted it comes in at 54.5 litres or a smidge over 12 gallons so it will have pretty good range I guess in the region of 400 miles

[Bonzo]

Blooming heck Kev

You don't hang about when you are on a mission :)

That is going to be a serious long range fuel tank :cool:

My old bones would fall apart before that tank is empty :o :D

[K4KEV]

Thing is Ronnie I will love bombing around the dales and north york moors so I don't want to be watching the fuel gauge and wondering if I will make to the next fuel station and thats if its open.....funny shape for a fuel tank I know but it was the only way to increase capacity without raising the centre of gravity of the whole tank significantly.

[robo]

Thats looking good. just a question though , can it be got out of the car without removing the bodywork?

Bob

[K4KEV]

Don't know yet Bob.... probably not so any diff maintainance will have to be from underneath....either that or have the rear tub removable humm one to look for when I come to it.

[robo]

Dont want to muscle in on your design BUUUUUUUUUUUUt how about knocking up the mock as two tanks with a link pipe. That way it would still only need one filler/vent, may also help with the fuel sloshing about.That would be a minimum amount to loose capacity wise but might just be able to wiggle out for access. Whatever its the way to go and will keep my beady eyes on this development.

Bob

[K4KEV]

Actually when I think about it, the diff is probably the only item you would need to maintain and how often does that happen.
Thanks for that suggestion Bob I had considered it along with smaller sub tanks to the bottom right and left connected by pipes,but then I thought I am over complicating things hence one tank shape means one set of welds, and one fitment.

[K4KEV]

Had to slow up a bit on the build due to other commitments, but as usual I always keep one eye on the bay and came up trumps again with this little package below ...it is a charge cooler set up.... leccy pump.. purpose built radiator
and charge cooler itself.....this will help no end because now I don't have to worry about a big air/air intercooler for the turbo..... £52 posted.... pump is part alloy so it will be getting the Ano treatment in red of course....must get on with that tank as well
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00012.jpg

[K4KEV]

Now that I have seen that time may be limited towards an easyish very "ish" IVA re the office closures.....I thought it was time to get my fingers oot.
here is my intended speedometer cluster that has come all the way from Indonesia......to make life easier I won't be fitting it until after my IVA.
here is a wee clip of it firing up and the colours. It has fantastic capabilities
here is a few thing it does.......it also has all the usual lights as well
http://youtu.be/TTlkoRIaIIM
Speedometer/tachometer digital
Odometer trip meter
Volt Meter
Fuel Meter
Thermometer
Digital Clock
Shift & Pre Shift Light
A/F Ratio
Oil Maintenance Mileage
Over Temp Warning Light
Max Record
8 interchangeable display light
obviously the A/F ratio will require a lambda sensor but a uni one will do.

[K4KEV]

Well...after a longish break of doing stuff for other peeps I thought it was time to get stuck back in to my build.
After I found out about the news of the dvla offices shutting down in 2013 I have decided to simplify my build to get it to up to quick IVA status so the ca18det engine IS still getting prepped but for a later engine transplant but it goes right against the grain but I am not going to get my soap box out.
So my build is going to be 1.6 pinto powered for a brief period only.
I managed to get my chassis off the build table and it now sits on some trestles which makes it a lot easier to spin over to get at all the un-welded bits done and no matter how hard you look there is always one that you find later and then some after that too.
Now for the update....been ebaying again and came up with an old stock polo rad for £26 delivered, have also put together my rear uprights and welded those up, have put steering rack mounts on and seatbelt harness mounts, will soon be doing my megatank.
Today is going to be spent grinding the welds back where bodywork/aluminium sits
Quick question.....when the rear uprights are fabricated and ready to weld, has everyone welded up the inside of the 5" pipe where there is a small thin ledge between RU7 and RU8?.....bugger to get to but easily done
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00096.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00097.jpg

[CTWV50]

Nice Work. Funnily enough I decided to get stuck in once again today! :)

[MarkB]

Fully weld the uprights but you may have to flash the welds down a bit to clear the drive shafts, not flat just take top of weld off to allow clearance.

[K4KEV]

cheers Mark ....that confirms what I first thought.....if its a fixed joint .....weld it
I am hoping to do a bit work on the steering column today and get it trial fitted so I'd better get a move on.:D :D

[K4KEV]

Have made a start on refurbing the rear drum backplates......what a effin nightmare.....did a little bit last night and ended up as manky as a coal dude, rust and iron filings in VIRTUALLY every offrice ...I wish I could say I am getting rid of ALL the rust but it is nigh on impossible.
I have nearly finished the grinding on the chassis where all the ally and glass panels offer up to the chassis frame.....that too is a manky job, you end up wreaking of iron....takes me back to my shipyard days on the wear.....ok enough I am off to get manky again.:D
drum plates.....a work in progress
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0002.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0001.jpg

[ozzy1]

Sandblast them kev,worth every penny :D

[K4KEV]

Yeah....I know Oz....would'nt care, I have a blast cabinet, might dig it out.
I have also been working on making the pedal box, again using metal from an old compressor tank (nearly all of the 3mm plate has come from these tanks).....will be assembling it to weld tomoz......really got the bit between my teeth at the mo and loving it.
pedal box parts
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0003.jpg

[K4KEV]

I hope this is the only time I ever see the chassis in this attitude (pic 1)
been busy with bandsaw and angry grinder again.....just have to make the pedals now.....and fortunately for me I had an old set of he-man dual controls from my days of being a driving instructor so I already have a clutch and brake pedal to modify.....will be doing those today....I am still finding joints that need welding ....it makes you wonder how many cars out there that might have "dry" joints.
Here are the obligatory piccies ....this time it is the pedal box that went together without a hitch, but needed a little "fettle" of the welds to get it nice and plumb.....possibly engine mount next.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0006.jpg
pedal box
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0004.jpg
pedal box in situ
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0005.jpg

[HandyAndy]

:cool: Nice work there Kev.

Just a thought......are you intending to "slot" the holes where the handbrake cable passes thru the bracket between the SB4,s ? I found that it helps when fitting the cable & also means you only need to shorten it at 1 end ;)

cheers
andy

[K4KEV]

never thought about it Andy....but now that you mention it.... yep I most probably will....hey good luck on your forthcoming IVA I'm assuming it will be Beverly your going to.
Well the weather outside is dictating my next course of action .....whipping out the pinto/box from the sierra, thought it might have been another month or two but it is around 15-16c so I is gonna do it while I can.

[K4KEV]

With the last few days being pleasant enough to work outside, I thought I would have a go at taking out the pinto/box from the sierra .....don't you just love rusted,crudded up bolts, neck ache, back ache and that is with an engine crane
even so ...out she came
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0007.jpg

pedal box is nearing completion as well here are my pedals all bushed up, I have used an old set of dual controls for brake and clutch

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0008.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0009.jpg

[K4KEV]

Hi all ....well the refurb of the drum backplate continues....I got real tired of wire brush, grindstones, well you know the score ....so I decided it was time to revive my DIY blast cabinet.....I gave up on this a while ago because you need a REAL BIIIIIIIG compressor for these hungry media blasters so it was time to get my hands on a petrol powered hydrovane compressor the dogs..... all bells and whistles water trap, air cooler 150psi, so after some setting up I gave it a shot but I only had silver sand to try out .....yeah I know, its a big no no silicosis and so on ...anyways way too dusty so a quick mooch on www I discover a few peeps starting recommend crushed glass....cheap and no dust (my ars) so ordered some of the bay to give it a try. couple of days later and after 15-20 mins blasting I have a finished backplate....great and no dust.
Next day I refill the blast bucket and get to work on the other backplate and the first signs of dust appear....bo**ocks I thought...well plod on , now on doing my differential and I can hardly see the thing in the blast cabinet and before any one asks yes I do have a vacuum and vent running ...so I won't be buying any more of that crap. I have now ordered some steel shot that IS re usable up to 3000 times and hahaha no dust (believe when see)
anyway the stuff I have done so far is coming up clean and ready to prime
so here are some piccies the diff aint finished yet but soon will.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0001.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0002.jpg
this one is the encrusted one on the right after a blast and paint.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0019.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0016.jpg

[K4KEV]

Not quite finished the diff yet but it is coming along here is what it looks like at the mo.....also started to make up the roll bar (one of ashg's) will put up some pics of that work soon.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0020.jpg

[K4KEV]

made a start on my roll bar, not much as yet just the end plates and welded them up....keep tinkering with different bits... that way I find I am not getting miffed at any one thing
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0002-1.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0001-1.jpg

[K4KEV]

Been making some great progress of late....nearly finished cleaning/painting gearbox.....rear hub carriers now painted and Diff is now painted have used hammerite and 2k and must admit the 2k paint has a far superior attributes than celly especially in this weather (warm)will be moving on to degreasing the pinto soon and look ahead to mounting the drive train anyway here are the obligatory pictures
backplates now in grey 2 pack after a few coats of acrylic grey primer
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0003-1.jpg
rear hub carriers again done with 2 coats of acrylic gre primer followed by grey 2 pack
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0004-1.jpg
gearbox done with silver smooth hammerite bell housing to be done in black
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0006-1.jpg
differential turned out great ,,,,again silver hammerite
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0005-1.jpg

[K4KEV]

Now moved onto a job I was dreading.....de-rusting the rear drums..... patience, patience, patience oh and a bit more patience.....trouble is tho I another to start :(
D I S A S T E R...... THE RED CALIPER PAINT monster jumped out of the tin and got me drums... GUTTED ...he got them when my back was turned derusting one of my driveshafts

derusted
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0007-1.jpg

the crime scene after the THE RED CALIPER PAINT monster attack
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0008-1.jpg

[SeriesLandy]

Looking good Kev, be carefull when you weld in the cross bar on the roll bar. When the welds cool the metal will contract and pull the top plate holes out of line.

I welded a piece of angle to the top plates to hold them in situ.

[K4KEV]

Hi Steve....dont know whether I would have thought of that, cheers, so will be leaving it in situ or putting a bracing bar across the bottom or a little hot/cold stress relief on the outside, opposite the lower portion of weld.....sortable either way....thanks for the heads up on that one.
kev

[K4KEV]

At last I am starting to reach the stage of putting stuff back together and will be looking at trial fitting the diff and rear suspension components.
Rear uprights are now prepped and ready to assemble.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0009-1.jpg

[HandyAndy]

Very clean n tidy :cool:

Its a nice feeling when you start putting things "together" instead of stripping it all apart :cool:

Nice progress .

cheers
andy

[K4KEV]

Very clean n tidy

Its a nice feeling when you start putting things "together" instead of stripping it all apart :cool:

Nice progress .

cheers
andy

your'e not kidding Andy....you can feel your chest inflate as you do up and torque off bolts then rattle off a rendition of "Land of Hope and Glory":o well....Green day's 'Holiday' actually:D :D

[K4KEV]

Started to refurb the drive shafts today.....rusty as hell, so as usual out with angry grinder to get the thick off and small hammer and screwdriver to get in to hard to reach bits. then rotary wire brush then small grinder in dremmel and the sandblasted.
even got one painted up...now for the other, also started brake calipers too, again well encrusted will be blasting then tomoz
driveshaft after prep work
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0010.jpg
same driveshaft painted
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0012.jpg
not looking forward to doing these
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0011.jpg

[ozzy1]

Looking good Kev.Can highly recommend biggred to do your calipers if you get bored.
If you do get bored you can come and do a bit of work on mine :D

[K4KEV]

Looking good Kev.Can highly recommend biggred to do your calipers if you get bored.
If you do get bored you can come and do a bit of work on mine :D

no probs Oz...as long as you come and pick me up :p
last few days have been busy with rest of roll bar
here are rear stays bottom mounts via 8mm bolt
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0017-1.jpg
and fishmouth to roll bar due to be welded
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0018-1.jpg
doing cross brace tomoz and incorporating rear harness anchorage points into it

[K4KEV]

have finished roll bar now and welded it up in situ so that it will stay put
my solution for the harness mounting points was similar to others, but I have used 12mm nuts that I placed and tightened up on a bolt (4 at a time) popped the bolt into the lathe and turned the corners off the nuts then placed those in situ on/in the cross brace and welded them up....made sure the vertical height was ok for IVA.
I have just dug out a strimmer shaft made of steel tube that will make me a nice extension for the steering column (bulkhead to rack) so that is the next one on the agenda
pics off the roll bar
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0019-1.jpghttp://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0020-1.jpg

[voucht]

pedal box is nearing completion as well here are my pedals all bushed up, I have used an old set of dual controls for brake and clutch


Hi Kev, sorry to pollute your build thread with my questions, but I have hard time sourcing Teflon or Acetal bushed for the pedal articulation, what do you mean by "dual controls" exactly please ?

[K4KEV]

Ha Ha Sylvain:p .....these were the type of controls a driving instructor uses, which are a brake pedal and a clutch pedal that are used from the passenger seat I have used the actual pedals themselves from a set.
As for acetal or delrin have a look on ebay there are usually loads even if it means getting it from over here.
An alternative I have used before is wheely bin plastic as it is very waxy.....cut out several "washers" with a small hole saw join them together on a bolt ....bolt in lathe or drill "turn down" to bush Dia hey presto plastic bushes

[voucht]

Ok, I got it now thanks! And thank you for the other tips :)

[K4KEV]

Started work on my steering extension ....was going to use an old strimmer shaft but decided its wall was too thin, so then decided to use some of the left over seamless tube from making the wishbones....19mm thick walled....perfect for the job also decided to use the original uj's as there was nothing wrong with them, no perishing in the rubber one and no play in the upper one. Cut the awfull triangular thing off the upper bottom part and turned it down to fit inside the extension tube, and ground down the triangle on the upper one to fit the tube then welded the bottom one up but left the upper one as I need to sort out the bearing support I intend to make.
heres the piccies
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0004-2.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0005-2.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0006-2.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0007-2.jpg

[K4KEV]

Now on with the bearing at the bulkhead area....my solution was to fit the bearing inside piece of thick walled ally tube then cut away the excess inside the chassis the bearing inner dimension matched the plastic triangular part from the original column so it was utilized again all this was then slid back onto the triangular part of the lower shaft, then trial fitting the st column, the bearing/ally tube sit perfectly in the fabricated "wedge that is made for the exit of the st column into the engine bay. This will have a cover that will both bolt and secure that assembly in place.......right where's me engine/box:D
piiiccceeeeeeeee's
custom made alloy bearing carrier
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0008-2.jpg

same item in situ looking from pedal box area
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0009-2.jpg

now looking from above....this is wher I will be using a bolt on plate to secure
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0010-1.jpg

[K4KEV]

Continuing where I left off, I needed to secure the bearing at the bulkhead, so it was a simple case of make a plate to go on top and have a bolt through the plate then through the ally bearing holder and nut on the inside....job done and it holds it perfectly rigid....gonna move on to seat mountings tomoz, am really enjoying the build at the mo:D
this is from the engine bay side
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0011-1.jpg

and this is from the drivers footwell side...you can just see the nut at the top underside of the bearing carrier.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0012-1.jpg

[K4KEV]

Have now moved on to sussing the engine and gearbox mountings, got the engine up and more or less in situ on the crane and decided to "pull" the gearbox up from below with a couple of slings.....after getting the alignment for the diff and splined shaft of the gearbox somewhere near I decided to mate the gearbox up .....much cussing then some more and an hour later the geabox makes that luuuuurrvely noise "clunk" as it mates up with the spigot bearing, good job as well the gearbox was going to get a right thrashing with a broom handle:mad:
will be double checking alignment tomoz and then drilling attaching mounts for good....then of course engine oot again

engine and gearbox in situ.....and the wooden engine mount IS temporary
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0016-1.jpghttp://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0015-1.jpghttp://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0014-1.jpg

[K4KEV]

Made a huge decision today after deliberating hard and long re the pinto/type9 engine combo and have decided not to go that route due to the routing of exhaust pipe (opposing sides) and the cutting of a hole in the bonnet for the pinto air filter, so I am going back to my original plan and using the nissan 200sx engine from the word go ....so if anyone is interested in a 1.6 pinto with g/box and all ancillaries and 66k miles drop me a line.

[K4KEV]

feel a lot happier now I know which direction I am going, had a little hiccup when it came to fitting the gearbox........at the prop end there were two large nuts sticking out that stopped the gearbox from going into the trans tunnel, found out these housed the springs that allows left to right springed movement of the gear lever .....so I removed 3mm of alloy gearbox on either side and then it would fit into the tunnel then replacing the aforementioned springs and nuts but these will need to be removed each time I wish to remove/refit the gearbox.....small price to pay, because of this I have been able to get the gearbox a good way back allowing the gear lever to be level with the steering wheel.....land rover engine mounts have been utilized in the gearbox mounting
just the engine mounts to do now

gearbox mounting points
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0017-2.jpg
gearbox anti vibe mounts
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0018-2.jpg
gear lever position
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0019-2.jpg

[CTWV50]

That's going to be one seriously quick roadster!:cool:

[K4KEV]

yup:D it will be Chris.....especially when I have finished the engine upgrades (stage 2)....gonna have to be very clever with my left foot that's for sure:p

[K4KEV]

I have managed to get the ca18det engine in and up to now there are no conflicts and the amount of space I have is amazing.....tho I think the bonnet is going to require a small power bulge to accept the plenum and the obligatory sump chop to help with ground clearance.....even offered up some body parts.

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0001-3.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0020-2.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0002-4.jpg

[motomaniac]

nissan??.. what engine u using???

[K4KEV]

Its the ca18det from the nissan 200sx s13 which is a 1.8 turbo kicking out 170bhp in standard form but I have several tuning mods to do, maybe after the IVA:D

[motomaniac]

hmmm, nice...

[K4KEV]

I've decided to use the land rover engine mounts again ....if they are strong enough for a V8 then they will be ok for my engine, after a rummage around my loft I came across a real beefy tow bar mount so I cut it in half on the bandsaw
I then took a small strip of ally and bent it to the angles required for the nissans engine mounts then off down to shed to drill 10mm holes and use the oxy gear to put some heat into the point of bends (remembering to add the thickness onto the dimensions) took some heat and a big shifty spanner to bend it, but it did work out fine. All I need now is the mounts which are on there way to me, when I get those on I can finalize the last pair of small gearbox mount near the back end of the box and then soon after that and a few small bit and pieces I will be ready to paint the chassis....only one piccy today
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0003-2.jpg

[Johno]

Cool.....:cool:
Looks a nice lump in there and with bags of room....
Cars going to look stunning with your wishbones and red bodykit.
What do you plan to do with regards to the plenum chamber, I know you said a power buldge but you going to make one or buy one?
The 1.6 MX5 has a similar problem with this even with the large NTS bonnet scoop but the 1.8 seems to be ok...:confused:
Look forward to more piccy's....

Johno

[K4KEV]

Hi Johno...jury is out on that one, might even be a bit different and vac form a teardrop bulge from lexan or acetate and I have not ruled out a cut and shut on the plenum or manifold tubes, since it is a bit down the line I may worry about it then:rolleyes:

[K4KEV]

Got my landy mounts yesterday and was able to finalize exact engine alignment/fitment and have to say it is very solid now that the mounts are all fixed, I think I might employ a vibration dampener at some upper part of the engine. Another good thing is I was able to measure the exact distance between rear diff flange and g/box output seal and is 537mm....that's a bloody short propshaft so will defo be putting in a few extra bits in to act as a prop catcher should things go bang in that area
main mounts now in
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0005-3.jpg

two small supplemental gearbox mounts....it all helps
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0004-3.jpg

[K4KEV]

Not got much done lately as been busy in the garden....did however get around to mounting the radiators and acquiring an electric fan for a tenner off ebay also been adding some extra reinforcing with 20mm box section any where that I have ground back the welds to accept fibreglass panels and also around the engine bay area will get some piccies of that later.
here is the rad mounting my charge cooler rad is going in front of this with the fan sandwiched in between them.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0015-2.jpg

[voucht]

Got your PM from this morning, will reply soon.
Regarding your radiator, it looks like you are going to install a blower fan in front of the radiator. My advice would be, if you still can change, to rather install the fan as a puller, behind the radiator. It is much more efficient. A blower fan (installed in front of the radiator) is a big obstruction to the natural airflow. As a general rule, a blower fan should be installed only if there is not enough room between the engine and the radiator to install a puller.
Just my opinion though, and I guess you certainly have good reasons to install your radiator this way :)

[K4KEV]

I think you may have a valid point there Sylvain ....looks like I will be making a shroud to convert it into a puller:(

[K4KEV]

Just when you think you are ready to paint the chassis you find another job to do....this time it was the headlamp mounts....so here is a set I made up yesterday and will be fitting today and hopefully final prep of the chassis to prime.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0020-3.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0001-4.jpg

[Johno]

Hi Kev,
They look very nice indeed :cool:
Looks like the old grinding and polishing gears been hard at it again.
Have you got your lights yet? If so what type. I was looking at some on SVC's website like the type on the Caterhams but bloody expensive though.. but they do look nice..:)

Johno

[Oscar]

Wow! :eek:

Very profesional finish on those brackets, are they reamed out bar or tube with a welded on end?

Also, how long did it take you to get your welds smoothed out that much?
Makes my build look like something done by an ameteur in a cramped shed with poor quality tools. "Cough, cough, ahem..."

[K4KEV]

Hi Kev,
They look very nice indeed :cool:
Looks like the old grinding and polishing gears been hard at it again.
Have you got your lights yet? If so what type. I was looking at some on SVC's website like the type on the Caterhams but bloody expensive though.. but they do look nice..:)

Johno

Hi Johno....got some 4" dominators from ebay last year for 43 notes and here is one insitu
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0002-5.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0003-3.jpg

Hi Oscar....if you look closely you will see a thin yellow line which is where I have silver soldered both the caps and the oval tube (actually a bit squashed round tube done with a vice)....they are on show so I wanted them to look good.

[K4KEV]

Started on the worst job to date.......chassis prep for paint....am I hacked off....what a manky job that is ...I know this, if I thought about building another it will be in bright steel....I have 2 angry grinders one with flap disc one with wire brush and interspersed with grinding disc too .....black and decker powerfille....hand wire brush black and decker drill with rotary wire brush and detail sander......and I have had to use them all:eek: ....hope to complete the job tomoz......az effin wrecked:(

[K4KEV]

got the headlamp brackets fitted and welded and very happy with end result.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0004-4.jpg
Been doing a LOT of chassis preparation and still finding bits to weld and I have been beefing up the chassis hopefully to help it cope with the extra power of the CA18DET engine ....will get some piccies of that very soon.

[K4KEV]

here are a few shots of my extra bracing that I have put here and there and also two small stubs in each cockpit to assist getting out of the car....I remember when Spud took me out , how difficult it was to get out of the car.....so this is why they are there to put a heel onto them to push yourself up and out of the car.....as to whether they are any good then time will tell when I fit the floor and seats.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0006-3.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0007-3.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0008-3.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0005-4.jpg

[will_08]

Looking good Kev,

I like the idea of additional bracing, i think it was Enochs build thread i seen he used plate as webbing. i think i will add some too!

[K4KEV]

Any extra bracing will give a little extra peace of mind especially if you intend to upgrade to a more powerful engine and it is at the cost of a couple of kilograms of extra steel ....I would say it is a win win situation.

[martinl]

The stubs to assist in getting out of the car is an excellent idea, especially if its a bit damp out, and you have a bare ally floor. I think i will incorporate this in mine when i eventually get everything and start it

[K4KEV]

Made a trip down to Stockton yesterday and within 1/2 hr I came away with my chassis number:D .....just needed proof of id so on the way back I nipped into machine mart and got some letter stamps and the result is below ....obviously I am not showing the whole number for security reasons, but after a few practice attempts the actual one I did first time worked out well so this will be the final thing that I weld onto the chassis before painting.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0009-3.jpg

[K4KEV]

At last....once I have welded the above plate on.... my chassis will be ready to paint....feels like a milestone in the build, must have gone over it about 4-5 times and always finding something else that should or needed to be done, so this is the last time you will see it in this colour.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0010-3.jpg

[vmax1974]

Nice one kev what did you have to take with you to get your chassis number

[K4KEV]

Hi Dave ....I took along my sierra's log book which is in my name, but I think anything with your name and address on it like your drivers licence or a utility bill
I think the womans name was Julia or Jullietta she is the only one there that seems to know what to do.....at first I was told I had to build the car then present it.....but I TOLD THEM:eek: that this was incorrect and that other persons had been to this office and came away with a vin number so do not take no for an answer even if you have to wait.

[vmax1974]

Think I will go get one on monday when am off

Have run out of jobs to do on the car till I can get the materials I need so will give me a sense of moving forward with it lol

[Davidbolam]

I sent them a letter using the template on the forum and got one in 2 days from the Newcastle office. I didn't give any ID or vehicle details


David

[K4KEV]

I suppose some dvla centres are good and some bad
Still not painting yet as I discovered yet another job I had not done, mind you I am pleased I am finding them now rather than after painting, the job was a prop catcher ....kept it very simple with 25mm box...now I might get some paint on it tomoz
simple prop catcher
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0011.jpg

[twinturbo]

Looks good,

Are you going to weld in the pedal box?

Like the aditional items..

TT

[K4KEV]

Hi TT...just going with book method of nuts and bolts and will then see how it looks and "feels"....would probably try a bolt up stiffener if there are any flexing issues

[robo]

[QUOTE=K4KEV;75637]I suppose some dvla centres are good and some bad
Still not painting yet as I discovered yet another job I had not done, mind you I am pleased I am finding them now rather than after painting, the job was a prop catcher ....kept it very simple with 25mm box...now I might get some paint on it tomoz
simple prop catcher

Your nearly there:cool: . Nothing worse than spending time painting a chassis and getting into the build to find yourself buffing of the paint to add a kin bracket. A dry build is probably the only way to avoid it:( but its all time and thats hard to come by.

Bob

[K4KEV]

sure thing Bob....any brackets after paint will be riveted or bolted on eg flexy brake lines which are going to be anodized anyway.....starting to get excited again like I did when I put the first piece of steel on the table.:D

[Bonzo]

Looking good Kev :)

Glad you had an easy ride with your local DVLA, some of the offices don't seem to have a clue.
Guess it shows that it is probably best to go in person if at all possible. ;)

Where do all those little welding jobs come from ?

Must have flipped my chassis at least 3 times & kept finding missed welds, mind you, I am as blind as a bat without my reading glasses. :D :D

[K4KEV]

Queer thing is Ronnie, you tell yourself you are going along one length of tube to the other then on to the next one and before you know it you have digressed to the other side of the chassis and missed out all the ones you intended to check:mad: but the obvious worst is finding one after paint ....do you weld it or not:eek:

[K4KEV]

Well everything is prepped and ready to paint ...well in primer first of course so here is a piccy of my roll bar (upside down in my shed this will be the first item to get the rattle can primer then it will be sprayed jet black to match my arches
at some point tomoz it will be in primer will post when that is done
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0015-3.jpg

[K4KEV]

well I have managed to get a few coats of primer onto my roll bar ....I am using grey and white primer ...that way you can see what you have covered will soon start on the chassis.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0016-2.jpg

[Bonzo]

May I please have your roll bar Kev :D

I am liking the look of that very much. :cool:

Why not set up a big tank so as you can Chrome plate it. :cool: :D

[Johno]

That's looking very nice indeed....:cool:
I like the addition of the two horizontal braces.
I must say you really do liking polishing stuff, there's gonna be no rust bleeding through that roll bar....:D

Nice work Kev...:cool:

Johno

[Oscar]

+1 for the Roll bar appreciation, may have steal steal... I mean take into consideration, the idea of the additional bracing!

[K4KEV]

Cheers for all the nice comments guys....it does help push me to keep the level I started when I did my w/bones.....the 2 extra braces are there for a reason which I will divulge post IVA but I also thought it was a bit different, have just finished with the jet black on the RB but was knackered and I did not have my phone on me so no pic until tomoz....ready for a couple of cans now:D

[The V8 Files]

Looking forward to some more pics Kev, I do like reading your build :D

[K4KEV]

Here you go then DoS
checked my roll bar this morning and I am a little disappointed as its got a little bit of orange peel about it.....nothing that a little wet and dry won't fix ....just more work
Started on the chassis tonight..yyaaaaaayyyy its first coat of grey....moving on to white fairly soon.....here sum piccies
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0017.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0018.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0019.jpg

[robo]

That is more than just a coat of paint its a milestone. I am gobsmacked by the amount of effort thats gone into the cleaning up of all the build parts in this project, I dont have the enthusiasm so its sand blasting for me:o . Anyway paints nearly done so its spanner time soon :cool:

Bob

[K4KEV]

That is more than just a coat of paint its a milestone. I am gobsmacked by the amount of effort thats gone into the cleaning up of all the build parts in this project, I dont have the enthusiasm so its sand blasting for me:o . Anyway paints nearly done so its spanner time soon

Bob

milestone or millstone:confused: ....ha...there are deeper reasons behind the way I have attacked this project ...maybe I will divulge them one day...the nice thing is Bob...
most of the other stuff is done and it will be nice to start to bolt things on in the knowledge they are there to stay.....to see paint on the chassis is defo a milestone as it feels "final".. I suspect the same feeling when the last snagging point is done and the iva is booked.....having said that I have forgotten about first engine start and rolling ......well I have those to look forward too also:D :D

[The V8 Files]

Must feel good getting to that stage :) I'm definitely looking forward to seeing your final build progress and seeing it all come together.

[K4KEV]

Now it is in White....which will make coverage much easier to see when I do the 2k grey top coat...which I have found if you get just right looks like powder coating....one of the other bonus's I will have is the Sikaflex I will be using to bond stuff is nigh on a perfect colour match
so here it is in white primer.
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0020.jpg

[robo]

Kev what are you spraying the chassis with,is it a full size gun or an airbrush?

Bob

[K4KEV]

Rob.....all the priming has been done with rattle cans ..simply because they were
litre for litre cheaper than buying primer and thinners (£2.45 400ml can) but not only that they are acrylic which ties in with the 2k acrylic top coat that I have, celly would not have liked that:mad: .....the other spraying I have been doing has been done with a cheap and cheerfull ebay mini spraygun like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spray-Gun-Sprayer-Air-Brush-Airbrush-Paint-Tool-Spanner-/180690192199?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item2a11f98747#ht_1675wt_1063
it has the bonus of not needing to set pressure as it has both fluid and air control screws.....a little patience and it does reward you with a credible finish.

[robo]

Thats the nuts that gun it would save its price in the paint saving let alone the kin mess and grief of overspray on everything. I going to get one:) Kev can you stand the roll bar up the right way its making me nervous looking at it:eek:

Bob

[Oscar]

Hey Kev,

Was just re-reading the bit about the headlight supports (a link in another thread sent me there, I noticed my name and got curious :D ) and only just realised what you said:

Oval bar made by squashing round bar?!?! :eek:

Why didn't I think of that? Was starting to plan buying oval justfor that bit!!!

Did you need to apply any heat during the process or just take it carefully?

[K4KEV]

hi Oscar..... tube wall needs to be a minimum of 2mm and you will need a hefty vice and an extension bar to increase pressure on vice toggle/handle then it is just steady pressure until it deforms into an oval but take care not to use too much pressure or it will start to deform into a figure of 8.....the ideal vice jaws would need to be around 1" x 5" no heat was used.

[K4KEV]

Thats the nuts that gun it would save its price in the paint saving let alone the kin mess and grief of overspray on everything. I going to get one:) Kev can you stand the roll bar up the right way its making me nervous looking at it:eek:

Bob

don't worry it is well fastened:p ......yep at that price it is a steal even if you chuck it away when done....the other thing I forgot to mention was its spray pattern which you already touched on...it is about 1"circle at 6-8" so yep there is very little overspray which in turn leads to far less mess and dust everywhere, if I were panel spraying I would think twice as a "fan" pattern would be more efficient.
I have used it many many times now as an airbrush on steriods and my bigger guns are and have been collecting dust for the last 2 years so yes I would recommend this little gem for intricate touch up or chassis spraying.

[flyerncle]

I agree that little gun is a cracker after seeing the outcome of it last night,cheers for the fan Kev and it was good to catch up with you again.

Citroen sorted ?

[Johno]

Once again looking very nice indeed...:cool:
It's a nice sight to see the chassis in some colour. It's a shame to think most of it will be covered in...
Looking forward to seeing more photos along the way...:)

Johno

[K4KEV]

Well, just my pedal box to paint now......got the painting of the chassis complete today and chuffed with the outcome as it is the first time I have used 2k paint and I was well impressed with the finish (see shine in photo's)....now I just need a good wesh .....(wash in mackemspeak).....wowser to think I can start putting bits on in a few days time ooooo oooo now Kev calm down calm down......gonna hammerite the g/box next
photy's now
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0002.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0001.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0004.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/ABCD0003.jpg

[robo]

And chuffed you should be:) I see what you mean about the small gun , it hasn`t gagged a ton of paint on there has it .Its now ready for a spanner attack :cool:

Bob

[Oscar]

Fantastic paint job! But did you forget to put your drill battery somewhere safe? :D

Carefull not scratch it as you bolt all those bits on!

Will definately be trying the squished tube trick, will let you know when I mess it up...

[HandyAndy]

:eek: Stunning work Kev .......as per usual from you :cool:

I really like that chassis , the extra bracing & all the "little" touches etc, obviously a well thought out build from start to finish :cool:

Can,t wait to see the finished car, its gonna be a cracker :cool:

cheers
andy

[Johno]

Hi Kev,
Looks like you've got the painting bug now...:D Where's it all gonna end.:eek:
Superb paint job there matey.:cool:

Johno

[alga]

Johno ir right! Now when it comes to interior trim I would not be surprised if you mastered the leatherwork on a sewing machine!

[K4KEV]

Johno ir right! Now when it comes to interior trim I would not be surprised if you mastered the leatherwork on a sewing machine!

It just so happens!!!!!:p ...nah...had not even thought of interior yet Albert....but hey you never know
Again thanks for all the positive comments guys.....am hoping to take out the wiring loom out of the sierra soon and sort out the stuff I do not want also would like to get the floor on so keep watching there will be an update/piccies soon

[voucht]

I haven't been on the forum for almost a week (travelling in France), and I really want to congratulate you for the chassis, it looks really good... I wish mine could look as good :eek:
Good job mate :cool:

[K4KEV]

aaaaaarrrrrrrrrgggghhhh

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0005-5.jpg

AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRGGGGHHHH:mad:

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0006-4.jpg

PHEW....TFFT

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0007-4.jpg

[vmax1974]

Would it be spaghetti time kev

[robo]

Yuk. I hate electrickery. All those supposed wires are really just lots of tubes filled with smoke ready to leak at the first opportunity:eek: :eek: good luck with that lot Kev

Bob:p

[robo]

fancied doing something different to keep up my interest so I'm embarking on the task of making my own ally fuel tank.
I have always thought the book tank was way to small so at the expense of "boot" space I have decided to make my tank in a shape that utilises the area above the diff as well.....I have also decided on 3mm aluminium which might seem overkill but I believe that in a rear end collision it is far more likely to deform rather than rupture and that in its self should create a kind of crumple zone which adds further peace of mind it will have two internal baffles to keep "slosh" down to a minimum and either a sump or swirl pot in the base to cater for fuel injection, capacity is 57.5 litres might yet add a little more to the top to bring it up to 60 not sure yet
Going to do this in my usual methodical way which to to make a cardboard mock up and when I am satisfied with that I will make a template then a sheet metal folder to initiate the construction proper....so for now here is the mock up in cardboard ...it needs a wee bit of fettling yet
if any one is interested I might be making some more but they wont be cheap due to the amount of work involved and the fact that they are 3mm thick
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01482.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01484.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC01483.jpg

Did you do much more on the long range tank Kev ?

Bob

[K4KEV]

not yet Bob....want to sort the wiring out....sierra loom now half the weight that it was, but I have just been to look at the 200sx's engine loom/ecu....sh*t it looks like a sierra loom untouched ...gonna spend tomoz taking that engine out and into the shed with it. then I will be able to get to all the loom need g/box end of prop shaft anyway .....not got a lot done lately due to nice gardening weather (my other passion)
I will get around to completing the tank pretty soon I hope as the other thing I need is the fuel sender from the 200sx .

[K4KEV]

crikey ...long time since I posted on my build, currently at the stage of routing wiring loom also trying to splice in the ca18det engine/ecu loom which is a bit of a nightmare.... so many sensors etc....anyway will soon be time for me to lift off the loom to start floors and fitting mechanicals. It will come together very quickly then, as most of the other stuff I have already made, so expect a hive of activity over the next few weeks....as ever a few photo's
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0003-4.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0002-6.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/ABCD0001-5.jpg

[K4KEV]

been busy prepping and cutting the floors and now at the stage of drilling and countersinking, then I am hoping tomorrow will see me with sikaflex and rivet gun
decided on 3mm ally sheet fixed at 2.5" spacing with 4mm countersunk sealed rivets
temp fixed and waiting to be marked for rivets
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/mountingthefloors.jpg
drilling holes
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/drillingforfloor.jpg
now countersinking the holes to allow a totally flush fit with coiuntersunk rivets
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/cskrivetholes.jpg

[K4KEV]

managed to get the offside floor sealed and riveted on.....I'm pleased I chose csk rivets because a quick check of my side panels inner dimension top to bottom leaves no room to spare.....had I used plain rivets it would have been a "force on" issue or remove a lip....phew.
drilled up the nearside floor, so will be mounting that proper tomoz
here come the piccies
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00054.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00056.jpg
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00058.jpg

[spud69]

Looks nice Kevin but you may need to clear some room to work in there ;)

It's only when people fit 2mm chequer plate to the floor it becomes a tight fit.

Andy

[robo]

Would the lower outer chassis rail going forward of the floorpan now need a 3mm strip put on to maintain the same line when the side panels go on.?


bob

[spud69]

No there is enough give for the lip to pull in to the lower chassis rail, or if in doubt you can use a washer to space it out a little bit.

Cheers........Andy

[K4KEV]

Rob....yep, am going to put a full 1" strip all the way along to give them total rigidity.
Andy....as above really did think about a packing piece or washers but then thought for rigidity and no allowance for movement would reduce the possibiltity of stress fractures, not only that .....I'm bluddy fussy:cool:

[robo]

I like the idea of the 3mm ali floor, its probably rigid enough to bolt the seat runners too without the need for any extra supports.:cool: I have been a believer in a decent floor since a local lad left the road in a car and ended up with a fencing stake between his legs:eek: that was very close to being an enema:eek: :eek:

Bob

[Davidbolam]

I think I used a 3mm floor with normal rivets. Will the side panels fit over these? (saturn ones)

David.

p.s sorry for the thread hijack

[spud69]

I think I used a 3mm floor with normal rivets. Will the side panels fit over these? (saturn ones)

David.

p.s sorry for the thread hijack

Hi david,

I've got no problem casting a 15cm strip of the relevant bit out of the side panel mold if you want to give it a try. Should be fine, fabby did make them a tight fit though, but best to be sure.

Regards.....Andy

[K4KEV]

hi Dave ....you could always countersink or drill the inside of the bottom of the panels where the pop rivets touch

[K4KEV]

Bob....the 3mm stuff was left over from the soon to be finished tank , seemed a shame not to use it for the floor....I came to the conclusion that 3mm for the tanks is/was overkill so my tank will remain the only one in 3mm ally.
Busy bending my 8mm copper fuel pipes at the mo and have decided it will be a lot easier to 'P' clip everything down one side of the tunnel this way I will only need 10 fasteners to hold petrol pipes (feed and return) and brake pipe in the trans tunnel area.....how you might say ...well watch this space.

[spud69]

Don't forget Kevin that there is a minimum spacing for clipping of pipes along the tranny tunnel, sure it's every 6" but check this first (don't have my IVA manual on this computer and my brain is not working)

Also dont post again, you're on 666 posts - Cool

Andy

[mgglep]

I did exactly the same thing I used 3 mm Ali for floor and tank I used 3/16 rivets and sika I used countersunk rivets on the edge where the side panels go I am hoping the panels will go over

[K4KEV]

Queer thing is Andy my current Ebay feedback is 999 ....me thinks something devilish is going on:D :D
mg you should be ok as long all the dimensions are correct but it will be close, which is what you want anyway:D

[K4KEV]

Started on pipework today and got some p clipped inside the trans tunnel
the ally I'm using to mount p clips to is a corner strengthener that plasterers use
I cut along the apex to give me two flat bits.
I purposely left the nearside floor off to make fitting the pipes easier
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC00061-1.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC00062.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC00063.jpg

[Oscar]

This is what I love about this forum, the ingenuity!

Will have to have a word with my cousin (a master plasterer) about getting some of that, the greatest form of flattery is imitation! ;)

[K4KEV]

good progress today....have just about completed the petrol and brake pipe mounting throughout the trans tunnel, got a bit busy on that side so decided to mount the loom clips on the other side....will be getting the other floor on later today
I did manage to do the trans tunnel with just 10 fixings
from the engine bay
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC00069.jpg

complicated bending near the diff mount
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC00068.jpg

one of Sylvains flexy lines was easy to hop over the fuel feed/return
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC00071.jpg

[robo]

This is what I love about this forum, the ingenuity!

Will have to have a word with my cousin (a master plasterer) about getting some of that, the greatest form of flattery is imitation! ;)

I reckon Chapman would have been proud of that one Kev:)

Bob

[voucht]

Very neat installation Kev, it is brilliant (and looks good :) )
Just a question: why the central brake line has to cross the fuel lines? Why haven't you routed the fuel lines all the way on top of the brake line, which would have been routed all the way on the lowest part of your ally strip? It would also have allowed a larger curve-radius on the bend of the brake line to turn around CP14 and connect to the tee-piece.
But I'm sure there is a reason ;)

[The V8 Files]

Liking the progress Kev

[K4KEV]

Mmmm....might try to swap those around Sylvain or at least top one for bottom one.....got the diff area all p clipped off
rob....I will list everything that I have used as a part off at the end of my build and the list will be quite comprehensive

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC00066.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC00065.jpg

plastic clips pop riveted on to hold loom in place
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/DSC00072.jpg

[K4KEV]

I have had a little rethink regarding my pipework down the trans tunnel.....not having the diff or handbrake cable mounted meant my guesswork regarding them was way out, so I have reworked them to clear the above items, one pipe I had to feed through the diff bracket which worked out quite well and I have moved the brake pipe down to the bottom to stop from crossing over as Sylvain pointed out, so here are the new trans tunnel pipework photo's

From the engine bay
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00084.jpg

to the tank (feed & return) with homemade olives soldered on
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00082.jpg

getting around the diff with out fouling
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00081.jpg

another angle
http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr12/gfowa/Haynes%20Roadster%20build/DSC00080.jpg