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#1
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![]() Only problem with those is MX5 hubs have studs rather than bolts. For 20mm you are going to want hubcentric with longer studs in the hubs.
Cheers Stot
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1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP : 1.8 ATB LSD Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Still OTR June 2024 |
#2
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![]() "Hubcentric", that's the word! Thanks, I'm learning almost every day out here
![]() Yes, they are very expensive, and sometimes, it is cheaper to find other wheels with the right ET...
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Sylvain Pictures of my completed Roadster https://www.flickr.com/photos/994983...7646799525542/ Build blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/ https://caferacer-kawa-gpz-zx550.blogspot.com/ |
#3
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![]() Well, these wheel were £190 for a brand new set of 4 so even if I buy hubs I'll still have saved a bit. I can atleast spacer the wheels to be flush with the rear arches.
Stanced! ![]() |
#4
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![]() I only went with ET15 so the rears filled the arches but then I decided it wouldn't hurt to go ET 15 on the front for clearance just incase. Can you not send the wheels back and have them send you a different ET set. I tried spacers with the original mx5 wheels and it just made me feel uneasy when fitted. edit: ET15 on the front with 13" wheels just about allowed use of full escort rack steering lock btw.
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#5
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![]() what width "13s are you running?
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#6
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![]() I'l sourced some good quality spacer which if the rear arch drawins are accurate should result a good looking fitment.
13x7 Rosco although a 13x8 would likely be possible on the rear if desired. |
#7
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#8
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![]() OUT
![]() I've gotten use to my car and it's performance so time for a change, I finally took the plunge and removed the engine while the sun was still out! And I finally own an engine crane! ![]() This 1.6 engine did a full 360 miles in my car, I'm so glad I didn't spend loads of money on it. ![]() |
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