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  #1  
Old 8th April 2010, 12:09 PM
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geeman geeman is offline
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Originally Posted by twinturbo View Post
Is the leaver free from obstructions?

Sounds like the release bearing may be stuck on the input shaft.

TT
ok, had a better look with a torch, the lever isnt hitting anything, so its free from any obstuctrions, heres a pic i just took:

The bit circled in red can move on the shaft aboud 2-3 cm easily

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Old 8th April 2010, 12:32 PM
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ok, had a better look with a torch, the lever isnt hitting anything, so its free from any obstuctrions, heres a pic i just took:

The bit circled in red can move on the shaft aboud 2-3 cm easily

i should say i dont know much about how clutches work, so not too sure id know were to begin to find out what the problem was.
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Old 8th April 2010, 12:49 PM
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http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch1.htm
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Old 8th April 2010, 01:32 PM
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ok, is there any reason a clutch release bearing would freeze up after no use? ill split the box/ and engine some time soon and see what the problem is?
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Old 9th April 2010, 11:55 AM
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ok, engine and box are split, clutch is out, but.. i have no idea what could be wrong.. here are the pictures. The clutch arm is able to move freely in the bellhousing, whats wrong.. and what do i need to fix it.





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Old 9th April 2010, 12:08 PM
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Its obviously hard to tell just looking at photos. My clutch has no play in it when its setup, all the slack is taken out. When your clutch fork stops / jams. How much space is left in the opening on the bellhousing.
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Old 9th April 2010, 12:34 PM
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Its obviously hard to tell just looking at photos. My clutch has no play in it when its setup, all the slack is taken out. When your clutch fork stops / jams. How much space is left in the opening on the bellhousing.
the fork goes about 1/4 of the way before it jams, but the 1/4 of the way it is free to move about.

i know this is a stupid question, but when to move the fork to operate the clutch, it is pushing the springy bit in the second pic in my previous post?
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Old 9th April 2010, 12:44 PM
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It may sound obviuos but have you double checked the clutch pedal end of things ??

With the cable engaged in the pedal but not to the gearbox, it may be worth checking that the pedal & inner cable are free to move enough to give you the desired amount of travel

Also worth checking the cable routing .... If you have a very sharp kink in it, it'll be very difficult to depress the pedal .... The cable will be wanting to fold in half, rather than pulling the inner cable through the outer sleve

As said very difficut to diagnose the problem without seeing things in person.
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Old 9th April 2010, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bonzo View Post
It may sound obviuos but have you double checked the clutch pedal end of things ??

With the cable engaged in the pedal but not to the gearbox, it may be worth checking that the pedal & inner cable are free to move enough to give you the desired amount of travel

Also worth checking the cable routing .... If you have a very sharp kink in it, it'll be very difficult to depress the pedal .... The cable will be wanting to fold in half, rather than pulling the inner cable through the outer sleve

As said very difficut to diagnose the problem without seeing things in person.
the clutch cable moves freely ans has enough travel, so that isnt a problem(its not bent sharply either)

i wonder, when the fork moves forward, what happens, as i dont see how the clutch is meant to work.

also i remembered this cable from somewhere.. is it for anything...:



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Old 9th April 2010, 01:57 PM
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That cable your speedo drive cable from the gearbox.

With regards to the clutch operation. The clutch fork pushes the clutch release bearing into the clutch cover plate (AKA the springy bit ) The depressed cover plate then takes the pressure off the clutch friction plate, so now the engine is no longer connected to the gearbox and both are free to rotate at independent speeds.
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