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#1
5th July 2010, 10:55 AM
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 basicaly the length of the green line measured from the inside of u1 and u2. Sorry about this but its kinda important i get this right for the wishbones lol 
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#2
5th July 2010, 10:57 AM
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see my post above this picture
  its no problem, ask for any help , thats what this forum is all about  cheers andy
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#3
5th July 2010, 11:08 AM
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Nice. thanks a load got the bits cut right now with the right distance between them. Only buggerance is the fact that they dont sit inside the chassis lol. Damn extended chassis! was really hoping i would get away with not messing with the suspension uprights. Any ideas?
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#4
5th July 2010, 11:18 AM
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its difficult to comment as you are altering the dimensions but how about "fettling" U1 & U2 to make them fit correctly on the underside of TR1 & TR2,
then make your suspension bracket jig as per the instruction in the book, place it into position on the chassis & you,ll then see how much "gap" is created by you altering the dimensions of the chassis, then maybe welding an additional section of box tube to the outer faces of U1 & U2 so that the suspension bracket jig meets the required positioning......just an idea  cheers andy
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#5
5th July 2010, 11:20 AM
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Not that I've started building yet, but also considering extending wheelbase so am following your build closely!
Can't you 'just' cut the uprights U1/U2 to fit, then modify the wishbone bracket postion(s) to match original spec/jig. If you've extended the engine bay, and used standard front frame then won't the width between the side rails (TR1/2) be WIDER than book, thus U1/2 sitting inside the top rails (rather than outside as per your last pic?) Also what affect do you imagine an increased wheelbase will have on steering geometry (ackerman etc) or will it be minimal & enough to ignore? EDIT: Doh! Just beaten to it by Andy Last edited by TQ_uk : 5th July 2010 at 11:26 AM.
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#6
5th July 2010, 11:56 AM
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 green is original area. Its hard to explane... yes you could change just the firewall forward but then the Top rail tr1/tr2 would not match the same angle as BR3 and BR4 so what i did was bring out br3/4 to the same angle that tr1 would be. this gave me a little bit more space in BR10. best way i can explane the way it sticks out is by getting this kinda shows you why its out more. red shows original, blue shows my one green shows the length of U1/2 and why its sticking out. It now sticks out 7mm lol, ok i have a idea i can do a front frame type thing and take a wedge out sould not be too hard to work out Last edited by Eternal : 5th July 2010 at 12:41 PM.
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#7
5th July 2010, 02:12 PM
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and as if my magic problem solved! wooo.
 Thanks for the help lads
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#8
5th July 2010, 02:42 PM
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what a neat solution to the problem
but may I ask..........as its not easy to see from the angle of the photo, will the suspension bracket on U2 now be in the correct place when you use the standard suspension bracket jig? if so..........well done on solving the problem cheers andy
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