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  #1  
Old 12th September 2010, 08:37 PM
gaz05 gaz05 is offline
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Cheers lads. Anyone know if I need the gearbox sandwich plate or clutch? It's a 1.8 diesel turbo. Obviously the engine is going in the bin.
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Old 12th September 2010, 08:58 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaz05 View Post
Anyone know if I need the gearbox sandwich plate
Hi Mate,

If you mean the thin dust cover thingy...then yes, keep hold of it
Also keep the gearbox mount, the big bit with rivets holding it together that also has a thick rubber insert inside the housing, you,ll be able to use it for the Roadster, once you.ve cut away the big housing part of it.

cheers
andy
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Old 12th September 2010, 09:41 PM
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Tip.

Prop-shaft bolts.


Sharp Chisels + Hammer

- Rear Seat

Seat Floor Pan + Big Hole = Happy Bunny.
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  #4  
Old 12th September 2010, 10:09 PM
gaz05 gaz05 is offline
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Cheers TT. I was actually surprised how easy the prop shaft bolts came off. Had to take an angle grinder to the exhaust though Because it was in my way. Shame cos it was in excellent condition. Angle grinders rock!!
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Old 13th September 2010, 09:12 AM
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Default why should the rear heb nuts be taken off ?

I'm about to slaughter my 4th Sierra, 65000miles Pinto 2litre automatic. The engine will be used withoout electronics. So very much old school. Fits with the owner I guess.

A question though:
"One huge tip, remember to slacken the rear hub nuts while the car is still on it's wheels you'll come to regret it later on if you don't"

But for what reason ?

The shaft can be taken out of the hub carrier without loosening the nuts.
So I don't see the point. Won't you mess up the bearings ??
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  #6  
Old 13th September 2010, 10:34 AM
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Hi Eddy

Fair point & yes the driveshaft will come away from the subframe without removing the hub nut ( Although any ABS may have something to say about that )

My point is, we are dealing with a donor car that is 20-25 year's old & potentialy 150,000 miles on the clock.

Let's say that you take the easy route and remove the shafts/hubs as a single unit ..... Great idea right up to the point you notice any of the following .... Rough/worn hub bearing, play in a CV joint or split CV boots

You are then left with the task of trying to udo the rear hub nut .... You'll then be in the not very exclusive club of the many folk who have uttered the words " If only I had loosened those nuts before I removed it from the car "

Take it from me, slacken those hub nuts off half a turn before you strip the donor & no, you will not dammage the bearings !!??

I can think of a dozen reasons to slacken the hub nuts & none for not doing so
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Old 13th September 2010, 11:18 AM
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Drum Brake cars can be withdrawn through the arm
Disk Brake cars can not be withdrawn through the arm.

TT
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  #8  
Old 20th September 2010, 12:17 AM
jonte jonte is offline
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Default Donor Prices

Having enjoyed a browse of gaz 05s blog I couldn't help noticing his remark about the prices commanded by donor cars these days as vendors are aware of their values to locost types.

Just wondering, does anybody know if it might be cheaper to source the parts individually?

Regards,

Jonte
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Old 20th September 2010, 06:42 AM
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Sourcing the parts individually may sound the cheaper optionbut you will not have all those clips and plugs, alternator, distributor, senders etc.
If you are dedicated enough you can get money back for doors and trim, then weigh in the shell etc. You could make a couple of hundred back.
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Old 20th September 2010, 10:30 AM
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Only 1.6 but with a set of bike carbs/bodies shoudl do well.

TT
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