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  #1  
Old 13th December 2011, 10:09 AM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Nice progress there Stew , you,ll soon have it into a 3D chassis, its a nice feeling when the chassis starts growing in height

A little tip.....watch out when positioning "U7", its easy to place it incorrectly .

Enjoy your build.

cheers
Andy
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Old 13th December 2011, 08:13 PM
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Cheers Andy, will watch out for it! Not doing anything tonight as its blowing a gale outside!
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Old 1st January 2012, 06:14 PM
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Hi Stew,
Another one added to the MX5 build...
What plans are you using in conjunction with the book or are you making it up as you go along?
There are a few of us now building MX5 Roadsters so any help is just a post away.
Good luck with the build Johno....
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Old 1st January 2012, 09:39 PM
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hi johno, im using the SSC mx5 additions to the book. im just about finished the second stage of the chassis, will post up more pics this week. thanks for the support, cheers.
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Old 7th January 2012, 05:00 PM
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So, ive been pretty quiet recently, to be honest I forgot the last point I updated this thread. The past two weeks ive been off work on holiday, so before christmas the chassis progressed a fair bit.





I then got to the point that I then needed some 3mm plate to finish the rear framework. I decided that as I was almost finished the chassis, I would start welding it, but thankfully just before I did that, I realised that TR5 was not required. It seems like this may be a common thing!!!!!!



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Old 7th January 2012, 05:12 PM
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More welding pics,









I then used a 80grit flap disc on my 4 1/2" grinder, and buffed the outside welds where they needed to sit flat with pannels fitted. I then went over every face of every joint and lightly removed any balls of spatter, and generally gave the surfaces a light polish. Was a good way of checking all the welds too! Very happy with the way it has come together so far. All welds done with a Murex 191 MIG, approx 20-21volts, 380ipm WFS.
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Old 7th January 2012, 05:24 PM
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I then cut some 3mm plate for 2x CP1 and 2x CP2, and welded them on. I then cut some 2mm plate to use for the 8 blank ends for the exposed RHS ends. Thought id post up a little tip (or maybe its ovbious!) that was shown to me a good few years ago, but saves loosing the cut end piece inside the tube. Ive also done this with bolts in the past (although a bit wastefull!). Normally at work im capping 50x50x2.5mm RHS, which is easier.



Tack-weld a welding rod to the cap, and offer it up to the end of the box section.



Tack weld the capping plate to the box section.



Then snap off the welding rod, weld up the seams.



Then buff flat, and jobs a good 'un!
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