Chris's new build of an MX5 based car

[CTWV50]

Its great news that 13`s fit Chris, all the decent track day slicks come in 13`s:cool:

Bob.

Set of R888 in the garage awaiting the wheels arrival. ;)

[CTWV50]

Well the wheels arrived today and I just test fitted them and they easily clear everything, I even had a set of 1.8 brakes there so I tried them and they clear well too so all in all nothing to worry about. I don't know for sure about other 13" wheels or offsets but with these wheels everything has 10mm clearance but difficult to measure accurately.:D

[skov]

Nice one Chris, didn't doubt they'd fit for a second :D

[CTWV50]

Car with new wheels. :D

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3763/9050571863_0acccb13fc_b.jpg

Took loads of photos which you can see in my photostream, some are of clearance etc. I can just push my fingers up inside between the rear arch and wheels. 1.6 brakes look tiny behind even these 13" wheels.

I've now started stripping the car down. :mad: Which is a bit depressing.

[CTWV50]

One more....:D

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7321/9050747671_3c1b77d300_b.jpg

[skov]

Nice wheels Chris!
Those tyres look suitibly sticky too :cool:

[ayjay]

I've now started stripping the car down. :mad: Which is a bit depressing.

Looks very nice. I found that the next stage was the most enjoyable once the chassis was painted -putting stuff together that was staying together;)

[CTWV50]

Looks very nice. I found that the next stage was the most enjoyable once the chassis was painted -putting stuff together that was staying together;)

Thanks for that encouragement ayjay, stripped the car down today after reattaching my winch to the garage cross beam. It kind of let go just as I started to hoist the engine yesterday! :eek: Bit of an "oh shit" moment!

sorted out the steering stops. I just welded in some spare hex and box section to stop the rack as required! :D

[Davidbolam]

Thanks for that encouragement ayjay, stripped the car down today after reattaching my winch to the garage cross beam. It kind of let go just as I started to hoist the engine yesterday! :eek: Bit of an "oh shit" moment!

sorted out the steering stops. I just welded in some spare hex and box section to stop the rack as required! :D

Can you show us a picture of you steering stop arrangement please?

David

[CTWV50]

Meant to put up image last night but forgot.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5523/9064350227_c9d2837124_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7432/9064353663_0cee5f8c81_b.jpg

I would of used hex tube on the other side as well but I didn't have anymore of that old tool left :D , I pinched the tubing in the vice giving it a tight fit and then just gave them each three tiny welds to secure them in place. Quick and dirty but reversible and it does the job.

[thailoz]

that looks like a good solution .the wheels look great to:)

[CTWV50]

that looks like a good solution .the wheels look great to:)

Cheers. How is it going in Thailand? Had a little look through your blog. What's your donor to be?

[CTWV50]

So I've got my pedal box/support sorted and clearing everything what a PITA. Lots of seam welding and grinding, probably more work making them fit than making the standard haynes pedal box but it was cheap I suppose. Pedals are like a rock when pressed to the max which should please mr IVA man.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2892/9186052949_fcd0beb933.jpg

[thailoz]

Cheers. How is it going in Thailand? Had a little look through your blog. What's your donor to be?

not good at the moment the woman selling the donor was pulling a fast one and tried to sell a car that was not hers to sell .

so back to the hunt for something suitable may be a mix up of donor parts ive seen a merc 220 rear axle but its expensive .....over 300 quid. I am also looking into a hybrid of Haynes and locost i.e live axle .

but not giving up on the build and any suggestions are appreciated.

loz

[CTWV50]

not good at the moment the woman selling the donor was pulling a fast one and tried to sell a car that was not hers to sell .

so back to the hunt for something suitable may be a mix up of donor parts ive seen a merc 220 rear axle but its expensive .....over 300 quid. I am also looking into a hybrid of Haynes and locost i.e live axle .

but not giving up on the build and any suggestions are appreciated.

loz

Sorry to hear that, what about a BMW E3, any of them about cheap?

[Numplumb]

Pedal box looks good, I'm using mx5 pedals in mine too I have mocked it up and got the steering column over the rail and I'm using the bearing as NTS Saturn design, did you alter the loud pedal?.
I bent mine the other way and I think I will have to make it longer to clear the top of the servo, with it as Mazda made it I would not be able to get it to clear the side of the bonnet, I'm going to make a plate 280mm wide x 200mm high out of 3 plate and a frame of 20mm angle iron each side back to the steering column support and 30m x 3mm flat iron across to bolt the back of the pedals to and then make the top and sides in Ali back to the bulk head/fire wall when I make it.

[CTWV50]

Pedal box looks good, I'm using mx5 pedals in mine too I have mocked it up and got the steering column over the rail and I'm using the bearing as NTS Saturn design, did you alter the loud pedal?.

Nice to see someone else using the mx5 pedals, I was feeling all alone!:D I didn't do too much to the accelerator pedal. I maybe shortened the length inside the car as it may of been a bit long.


I bent mine the other way and I think I will have to make it longer to clear the top of the servo, with it as Mazda made it I would not be able to get it to clear the side of the bonnet.

What I did if I can remember as it was well over 12 months ago. I cut out the part of the engine bay from the donor that all the pedals mount to and then I chopped the clutch mounting from the the rest and moved it over closer to the brake, so much so that the nut for mounting the clutch cylinder on that side is inaccessible without removing the brake servo first. This means you can keep the accelerator as it is and you just need to bend and adjust the pedals to suit your feet. I did away with the clutch pedal stop and used a piece of 4mm plate welded to the tunnel tube. Hope that helps. :)


I'm going to make a plate 280mm wide x 200mm high out of 3 plate and a frame of 20mm angle iron each side back to the steering column support and 30m x 3mm flat iron across to bolt the back of the pedals to and then make the top and sides in Ali back to the bulk head/fire wall when I make it.

Sounds like it will be good and strong I'm using ali just for the removable top access cover.

[thailoz]

Sorry to hear that, what about a BMW E3, any of them about cheap?


Unfortunately not any import car here however old it is goes for silly money eg I saw a mk 3 Cortina advertised for over £10,000 yes that is ten thousand .

so I have to just get on the search .

[Numplumb]

Thanks for the reply, I don't have the donor to cut any bulk head from but I will look into the rest of your suggestions when I'm ready to make that part, but when I mocked it up with the steering column in place it all seemed to fit except for the top of the loud pedal being to far over to miss the bonnet, I ground off the pedal pad and welded it back on straight
Regards Mick.

[CTWV50]

No pictures but I'm slowing finishing off the chassis, loads of final welding and grinding to do. steering column UJ is sorted now and column bearing and plate, pedal box needs a bit more to finish which I shall do tonight when it's cooler.

Then I need to get the drivers floor welded up. Passenger floor needs some welding from underneath to finish. Then it's just the backend to sort out but I think it's just brackets that need fully welding and maybe redo the underside welding on the strut towers as I wasn't happy with them last time.

Think I'm going to go for a fibre glass kit from AGM as I really can't be arsed doing the sides and back in ali I just don't have the space, tools, patience or skills, binning my custom rear end as it's still not finished, nosecone brackets will go, heater matrix and brackets are being deleted, it was leaking, and moving the waterbottle to the front of the car. No more steel to be attached to this car not even going to do the round bits near the seats, just going to leave that to the fibreglass side panels. All Ali tunnel in 0.9mm with foot rest, thin I know but cheap and easy to cut/bend.

Done some measuring and the AGM kit should fit fine, worse case is a bonnet bulge.

Got my paint, paint brushes, seam sealer, brake pipe, clips, unions, still to sort roll bar but think I'll just buy that one off ebay as I give up trying to get a CDS item made for reasonable money, but I will be cross bracing it and doing the supports with CDS.

Looking forward to having a finished chassis all painted and getting on with putting things back on for the final time! :D

[CTWV50]

Bodywork now for sale....

http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12782

[vmax1974]

Unfortunately not any import car here however old it is goes for silly money eg I saw a mk 3 Cortina advertised for over £10,000 yes that is ten thousand .

so I have to just get on the search .

Is there any way to smuggle parts into the country as a government that greedy deserves to be ripped off

[thailoz]

I wish I could smuggle stuff in but also shipping is expensive so I am just gonna have to use what I can find here :(

[CTWV50]

Bloody hell when will this bit be over, it's killing me! "just a few brackets to weld" my arse!! Even the welder had to have a 10 minute break to cool down yesterday. Neighbours must love me, sat in there gardens listening to me grinding on this baby for over an hour continuously with the garage door open. Sounded like some epic battle between me and some giant steel dragon.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7362/9289163651_d0149460ba.jpg

I really don't know how any of us manage to put these chassis together and build these cars it's a herculean task of gargantuan proportions! We should all be supremely proud of ourselves! :D

[CTWV50]

Car's slowly coming back together. Whilst it's upside down I thought I'd get the brakes done and drill the rivet holes on the underside for the side panels.

Also managed to catch a cold at the weekend hanging around in a wet n windy garage.

I'm enjoying this part now that the welding, grinding and painting is over.:D

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7348/9778343694_070a698d18_c.jpg

[Davidbolam]

Car's slowly coming back together. Whilst it's upside down I thought I'd get the brakes done and drill the rivet holes on the underside for the side panels.

Also managed to catch a cold at the weekend hanging around in a wet n windy garage.

I'm enjoying this part now that the welding, grinding and painting is over.:D

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7348/9778343694_070a698d18_c.jpg

It is more fun doing these type of bits. I was worried about cutting the Grp but its much nicer to work with than I was expecting.

David

[CTWV50]

It is more fun doing these type of bits. I was worried about cutting the Grp but its much nicer to work with than I was expecting.

David

Same here, took me a week to get on with chopping up the side panels.:o

[CTWV50]

This little bit of warm weather has spurred me on some what, car's now the right way up, pedals are in, diffs in, tanks on, pipes are nearly done for fuel and brakes. Wheels suspension and steering next. I'll get the back end finalised and then start on the front.


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/9904435985_ea72a82d10_z.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3690/9904536944_80f0c9b1f9_z.jpg

Decided to move the fuel filter down lower, wasn't happy with the original routing. The return pipe now comes up in the diff cage area where that pipe does a 180˚ turn. Sorry about the mess!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7345/9904790424_6d2941e146_z.jpg

Pedal's still fit, just, after fully welding and painting the chassis. Top of the brake fluid reservoir clears the bonnet by a fingers width. Phew! I was going to paint the the flash rusted pedal supports but then I remembered, I couldn't be arsed!

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5449/9904895953_b80c8c30fe_z.jpg

[CTWV50]

Haven't really done much this week, but today I got in the garage and took the diff back out and replaced the rubber mounts with poly mounts. I wasn't happy with the standard rubber and tired plate washer rubber thingies that go underneath. I could just see the nose being held still while the standard mounts jiggled about under load and between gears etc. Forgot to take any pictures but the old ones were a **** to remove, had to use every stone age brutality I could think of to get them out.:D

[jason 82]

That chassis looks spot on, glad to hear that the mx5 pedal box is fitting good, that's what I am going to do now. I have been following your build thread with interest, just to see how the mx5 pedal box planned out. :D

[CTWV50]

That chassis looks spot on, glad to hear that the mx5 pedal box is fitting good, that's what I am going to do now. I have been following your build thread with interest, just to see how the mx5 pedal box planned out. :D

Thanks Jason, it's a lot of fun getting the mx5 pedal box to fit, one of my favourite parts of the build so far. Cheap to do too!

[CTWV50]

Been busy since the day after Christmas, thought I'd share!

http://youtu.be/LP_PXkcquyw

[Davidbolam]

Been busy since the day after Christmas, thought I'd share!

http://youtu.be/LP_PXkcquyw

It's good to see you have been putting our build back together.

When are you going to start putting all the red bits on?

David

[CTWV50]

Need to do some more tinkering but I've tried the nose cone and managed to get the bonnet to clear the engine, just. Going to just tinker with it for a coupe of weeks, I'm moving offices at work which will require a lot of time over the next couple of months. I have to say it's a huge relief to actually use it and have it work even in a confined space. Nice to have it back in nearly one piece again!:)

Very direct acceleration, feels like the loud pedal is directly connected to the back wheels. Really fun!:D

[TheArf]

Looking awesome, there was some serious grin factor going on in that video

Arfon

[skov]

Nice one Chris :D
There was me thinking you were in hibernation again!

[CTWV50]

Nice one Chris :D
There was me thinking you were in hibernation again!

I got bored!:)

[CTWV50]

Took some pictures today as the light was good...

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3684/12618532485_9ec53ddc8f_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/12618642303_2d6a937bf3_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3766/12618618423_a62cc04894_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/12618610073_3f96a82cc9_c.jpg

[CTWV50]

Even managed to make a foot rest in the tunnel out of the old mx5 ashtray! Waste not want not!


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/12618539935_08c687eac3_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/12618899914_b0914c56bb_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/12618584203_cdd1af1bf6_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7289/12618456795_72c96c196b_c.jpg

[jason 82]

How is the mx5 pedal box working out for you ? It looks a little tight. Nice job , you will have the bodykit all on and buttoned up by lunch tomorrow then ?:eek:

[jason 82]

Just noticed the diaganol running under the master cylinder, nice touch.

[CTWV50]

How is the mx5 pedal box working out for you ? It looks a little tight. Nice job , you will have the bodykit all on and buttoned up by lunch tomorrow then ?:eek:

I actually hadn't put any thought into how the pedals felt, it just feels like your using a standard cars pedals. It is tight though getting it fitted but the biggest issue was getting the steering column between the clutch and brake pedal. Basically there is a lot of titting about getting it sorted and I couldn't recommend to anyone to actually do it, as it's probably easier to make the book pedal box but, the end result works just fine and the brake bleed was dead easy. You also have to have the engine in and position it right or it could catch the master cylinder. As for pedal spacing, I've only driven it in my steel toe capped size elevens and haven't hit another pedal as yet by accident.

Body on and all be finished by by 11:30am tomorrow me thinks!;)

[CTWV50]

Just noticed the diaganol running under the master cylinder, nice touch.

Yeah someone on the forum cnc'ed the chassis number in to it for me, I forget his forum name now, he doesn't come on here much anymore I don't think.

[TalonMotorFabrication]

You might be thinking of AdrianH for CNC chassis plates?

[CTWV50]

Oh yes that's the man, good bloke!

[CTWV50]

Finished my cycle wing mounts.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/13038194125_2a15aee61c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3230/13038467613_282c0e9270.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3580/13038331685_f70984ec52.jpg

[CTWV50]

Got the car up on the ramps for the oil changes. Took some pictures while i was under there.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3533/13038564564_aa809bb7b2.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7370/13038350615_0565c20b9a.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7376/13038358575_bfd2d498b9.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7327/13038373695_fb671a21e7.jpg

[skov]

Looking good Chris :cool:

If you want I'll be happy to borrow those wheels and tyres for the summer and bed them in for you :)

[CTWV50]

Looking good Chris :cool:

If you want I'll be happy to borrow those wheels and tyres for the summer and bed them in for you :)

😁 your going to need something sticky when that turbo is finally attached!

[CTWV50]

I was under the car again this evening, tightening bolts, clearancing the handbrake cable amongst some other small jobs. While I was under there I took some more pictures of the speedo cable adapter which I got from a forum member in Australia, wish I new what it was off, works really well with my lowered floor and fluid pipe routing.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3485/13066830554_8753c6b69d.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7334/13066837914_be331a7049.jpg

[jason 82]

Isn't that the Toyota carolla AE86 adaptor that people were talking about on here about a year ago ? If it is, they are really bloody hard to get hold of a second hand one. My local Toyota dealership wants £96 for it !:eek:

[CTWV50]

WOW! I forget what I paid for it. I think mx5 mk2 clocks and the digital speedo drive is the way to go for future builds. It must be a cheaper option.

This is it before fitting.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8282/7589105192_105d8481b8_c.jpg

[Davidbolam]

Isn't that the Toyota carolla AE86 adaptor that people were talking about on here about a year ago ? If it is, they are really bloody hard to get hold of a second hand one. My local Toyota dealership wants £96 for it !:eek:

Mine was £18 delivered. I will try and dig out the suppliers details

David

[CTWV50]

The other night I made sure the handbrake cables don't touch. I shortened the brackets angled them down and bent them over in the vice a bit more and now they don't touch.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/13112558735_9771e4a310.jpg (http://flic.kr/p/kYHhST)

Made a dodgy aluminium bracket and attached a couple of p-clips to hold the cables away from the back rail.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7364/13112651853_db3e6f52f3.jpg (http://flic.kr/p/kYHLyn)

[CTWV50]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7426/13113334313_b46000baaf.jpg (http://flic.kr/p/kYMgqV)

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/13113240965_09810eee0b.jpg (http://flic.kr/p/kYLMFt)

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3688/13113609524_247d994526.jpg (http://flic.kr/p/kYNFeW)

[CTWV50]

Shot of the brake line routing using the mx5 rear splitter.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2608/13113250665_a4773b2005.jpg (http://flic.kr/p/kYLQyH)

Fuel pipe routing, just clears the lower diff mount nut!

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3827/13113380483_3fa1068489.jpg (http://flic.kr/p/kYMv9X)

[CTWV50]

Started work on my roll bar today, didn't quite have enough to do the last part of the cross, but i need to order more for the backstays anyway. Went quite well I expected it to be a lot harder to get the ends shaped to fit.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7055/13170490794_050290a827.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/m4Qd4u)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3698/13178512134_b610e38e04.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/m5xjws)

Also yesterday I fitted a 2.4 quick rack now that I've managed to sort out the front suspension so I don't need to use rack stops to prevent the track rod extensions contacting the wishbones on full lock and full droop, I wanted a quick rack in the first place but didn't have the cash at the time.

[CTWV50]

Not a particularly productive day today, only adjusted the position of the handbrake lever to allow the fitting of the original cover, bent the lever over slightly too. I had to replace the existing cable as well as the old ones plastic covering was cracking off and I didn't want mr IVA to question its usability. Started to think about the centre cover and bent a small piece of ali then got bored and fed up and went in the house for a Sunday afternoon sleep! zzzZZZZZ!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7079/13194737155_d5e24e3343.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/m6YtEc)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/13194873373_ae1723c727.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/m6Zb9M)

[CTWV50]

I’ve been asked by a couple of people about why I’ve gone for 13” shocks on the front so I thought I might as well give an explanation on my build thread.

I have been working on the issue of the steering contacting wishbones on full droop. I thought I had resolved this by welding in rack limiters as you can see previously in my build thread. This seemed a good solution to prevent the steering on full lock contacting the front of the wishbones but after driving the car in a space large enough to complete a full turning circle it quickly became apparent that the amount of limiting done to resolve the contact issue was too much. I had something like a 19 metre turning circle which I estimated my using google earth lol! I also couldn’t make left turns without going into the opposite lane of traffic, a bit like a bus. So something had to be done.

I know others have used 14” open shocks and rack limiters and have been happy with the results so I maybe just a one off due to my particular Saturn wishbones and the fact I was using Gaz 14” open shocks and not 13” with a 1” top hat. I don’t know, but my turning circle was unacceptable to me.

As I was so far down the line with build and pretty much committed to using MX5 uprights and saturn wishbones (which I actually can’t see how you could improve for clearance without bending) I decided the issue was droop and I needed to limit that droop. Although I didn’t need to change the shocks to limit droop it seemed daft to keep them and not use their full travel. So as a quick test I fitted the 12” rear dampers but they weren’t able to give a correct ride height without a lot of preload and were giving me next to no droop at all and very little actual suspension. So I bought a set of 13” dampers to see were they would put me.

The 13” dampers worked well I could achieve a good ride height without spring preload and also level wishbones, which I’d not been able to achieve with the 14” dampers and 400lb springs (without them being loose on full droop) I also had plenty of droop and active suspension but I was getting contact again at the very end of the steering lock at full droop. So the options were limit the steering lock again but only by a small amount this time or move the shock bracket on the wishbone to again limit droop a small amount and prevent contact.

Limiting the steering was the easy solution but because I’d gone to all this effort I decided I might as well go the whole way and see were I ended up so off came the wishbone brackets and after a lot of careful measuring and estimation of ride height and droop I got them both tacked back on in the right position. It took three attempts to get the 2nd bracket in the correct location to get matching ride height and no wishbone contact.

By moving the brackets outwards slightly I had changed the ride height the cars front frame bottom rail, it was only 85mm off the ground with no spring preload. I could of put preload into the spring but I thought this would be excessive so I ordered some 450lb springs, which seems like a lot but changing the angle of the shock had increased the leverage on the spring.

I fitted the springs last night and with only hand tightening preload the car sits at a static ride height of 105mm. The springs can still be turned by hand when unloaded from the cars weight and the shock length with the cars weight on them is around 12” in length giving 1” of shock droop. Droop at the wheel though is around 1.5-2". The ride is supple yet firm, obviously I haven’t used the car in the real world so I shall keep hold of the 400lb springs for the time being just incase the ride is too firm at the front.

If you can get away with rack limiting with the wishbones you're using and you're happy with it then that’s the solution. As I’ve said mine was just stupid so I had to do something.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7110/13242330215_41b2e19d45.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mbbpqc)

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https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7268/13242344065_8f07a5d40f.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mbbtwZ)

[CTWV50]

How the car sits now.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3770/13242542623_a28b4b2dbf.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mbcuyp)

edit: sorry got my images mixed up. this shot shows the drivers side done and the passenger side not done. doh. note the difference in angle of the dampers.

[CTWV50]

Oh also I forgot to mention I used this website to work out spring rates. Very useful! I worked out sprung and unsprung weight using our weight watchers glass bathroom scales! And they didn't break! Not the most accurate way to work out unsprung weight but it must be close.

http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/#.UymYXNwwgfp

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3687/13265567084_344bb9b30d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mdeuVS)

I also rechecked the brake lines on full lock for clearance etc.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/13265569694_b3bd4b0e77.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mdevGS)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7345/13265572344_92238ef2d6.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mdewuy)

These mazda 323 brake lines with the brackets I've bodged together have worked out really well with the 1.8 brake carriers and the 13" wheels.

I took the car down the neighbours driveway again this morning to check out the suspension difference. It was a limited test but it's not the most level of roads and there is one big bump in the road which I went over with the drivers side wheels fairly fast and I didn't really feel anything through my seat or steering wheel which was surprising. As I say only a limited test but promising. I also tested for steering self centring and it was completely AWOL guess I've lost the negative camber at the new ride height, I'll dial that back in at the weekend.

Quick shot of the car in front of the neighbours greenhouses.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2837/13265191703_85fe188988.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mdczkM)

I went as fast as I could in the limited space and stamped on the brakes, slightly locking up the pass side front wheel, but no horrible sensation through the steering wheel or pulling.

I think I can now move on to the 100mm ball test and get the front finished off mechanically.

Is the 100mm ball test only with the wheels in the straight ahead position or do they do the test with full lock on as well? Anyone know?

[skov]

Oh also I forgot to mention I used this website to work out spring rates. Very useful! I worked out sprung and unsprung weight using our weight watchers glass bathroom scales! And they didn't break! Not the most accurate weigh to work out unsprung weight but it must be close.

http://www.hypercoils.com/spring-rate-calculator/#.UymYXNwwgfp

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3687/13265567084_344bb9b30d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mdeuVS)



I've looked at that calculator before and didn't much like it to be quite honest.
Ideally you want to be calculating spring rate based on wheel rate, then adjusting ride height with pre-load and/or spring length.
That calculator seems to do it ar5e about face and calculates spring rate based on ride height, then tells you what wheel rate you'll happen to end up with.
Converting those figures to wheel frequency you'll have 135 cpm by my calculations.
As a guide:
60 – 80 cpm Comfortable road car
80 – 100 cpm Sports road car
100 – 125 cpm Racing cars without wings
200 – 350 cpm Current racing cars with downforce

[CTWV50]

I don't really know enough about it to comment John. So if your using 250lb springs on the front, how much preload in mm have you put into the spring?

[CTWV50]

I'm sure your right John, I just threw some numbers at this calculator and got these results.....

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/13268716715_f26851c8de.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mdvDcR)

I noticed it didn't take into account damper angle though.

http://www.racingaspirations.com/apps/wheel-frequency-calculator

This is fairly confusing!:confused:

[skov]

So if your using 250lb springs on the front, how much preload in mm have you put into the spring?

I think I've got 325lbs on the front at the moment, and only have a tiny bit of preload.
With 250 springs I needed lots and lots of preload!




I noticed it didn't take into account damper angle though.



It can, but not directly. You have to take account of the damper angle in the leverage ratio. Can't remember how to do that off the top of my head though!

[CTWV50]

I think I've got 325lbs on the front at the moment, and only have a tiny bit of preload.
With 250 springs I needed lots and lots of preload!




It can, but not directly. You have to take account of the damper angle in the leverage ratio. Can't remember how to do that off the top of my head though!

Hmmm, I don't know. It feels ok but only had very limited testing really. Also I'm using the centre of the wheel for the A-B dimension, and using ET15 not standard mx5 ET38 wheels and I've moved the shock wishbone mount out around 20mm, so there really is a lot more leverage on the spring. Also I've only got 1" of shock travel for droop due to the 13" shocks but it gives me 1.5-2" droop at the wheel. I guess like you I'll have to see how it behaves on the road and take it from there.

If I suffer understeer due to the front spring rate, I had the mad idea today of making a rear ARB. But I'm going to forget about that for now, sounds like trouble!:) I can always try a lower spring rate and try preloading them.

[CTWV50]

OK I've had a bit more of a play with these calculators and as one of them gives me a "motion ratio" of 0.411. see below..

MOTION RATIO
Motion Ratio = (Dimension A / Dimension B) * sin(Spring Angle)

The motion ratio is the mechanical advantage (lever ratio) that the wheel has over the spring in compressing it.

I converted this for the Staniforth calculator to 2.43:1 and then my cpm dropped to 100.74cpm.

I wasn't sure if this was correct but looking at the wheel rate the numbers are very similar. but one is described as "effective wheel rate" so I'm not sure what the difference is there.

WHEEL RATE

Effective Wheel Rate = Spring Rate * (Motion Ratio)2

Wheel Rate is the effective spring rate at the wheel, due to the leverage advantage the wheel has with respect to the spring on the control arm.


Staniforth gives a wheel rate of 76.25lb/in whereas hypercoils gives an effective wheel rate of 72.55lb/in.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3714/13272558324_21af6a7993_b.jpg

Does that look about right? I have no idea!:)

[CTWV50]

Staniforth gives a wheel rate of 76.25lb/in whereas hypercoils gives an effective wheel rate of 72.55lb/in.


OK this is because I told one calculator what springs I was using (450lb/in) and one calculator was telling me what springs I should use (430lb/in).

If I put 430lb/in into the Staniforth calculator i get 72.285lb/in. Same as hypercoils pretty much!

[skov]

Hmmm, you've got me doubting my calculations now.
I had been using the eibach equations here:
http://eibach.com/america/en/motorsport/products/suspension-worksheet
However they seem to correct for shock angle slightly differently to others which seems to give very different results :confused:

[CTWV50]

Well, I've had a couple of glasses of wine but, I'll have a look at that tomorrow!:confused: :D

[CTWV50]

Yes they are working wheel rate out by squaring MR before they have accounted for spring angle whereas hyper coil are accounting for spring angle for MR and then squaring MR.

http://eibach.com/sites/devperformance-suspension.eibach.com/files/motorsport/suspension_worksheet/susp-worksheet_6.gif

So my CPM would come out at 163cpm using that method. If I reduce distance D2 by not using the centre of the tire but the lower ball joint to 15" say I get a cpm of 182cpm!

It certainly doesn't feel like I'm driving a modern day ground effect or downforce racing car! lol

There must be more too this we aren't aware of.

[CTWV50]

Found this, It's a discussion about exactly this with some seemingly knowledgable people trying to get to the bottom of the Staniforth correction factor for angle. I'm not sure I'm able to apply it but I'll give it a go.

http://www.ten-tenths.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126399

There is this as well, but to me this is as clear as mud. I assume this is from Staniforth's book.

http://enderw88.wordpress.com/automotive-theory/spring-rate-theory/

[flyerncle]

An observation and hope I am wrong,I don't think the IVA tester will like the fact that the locking nut for top suspension joint holds the flexy pipe bracket as well.

[CTWV50]

An observation and hope I am wrong,I don't think the IVA tester will like the fact that the locking nut for top suspension joint holds the flexy pipe bracket as well.

Yes I have questioned that myself, I may get hold of a 2nd pair of drag link lock nuts or maybe weld the bracket to the upper wishbone. Thanks for the observation.:)

[CTWV50]

Last night I made some spacers for the rack just to make sure mr IVA man didn't fail me due to the rack boots touching the wishbones. I'll probably remove them after the IVA as the contact is only very slight. I'm using 12.9 strength M8 hex head bolts with washers and flanged nylock nuts.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2842/13307705164_b628558ed7_b.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3703/13307499013_929c8b65ff_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

I've decided to give making my own fuel tank a go. The one I was using had a few small leaks but the main issue was keeping the steel flanges from the mazda tank attached to the ali tank. In an effort to resolve this I decided I'd make a steel tank. I wanted to originally but never thought I'd be able to. So never one to shy away from a challenge I made some tank end plates and a sump and tested them with fuel and they didn't leak! I took the end plates to a local fabing place and had them bend some sheet steel to fit by end plates.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3681/13404414495_37b982b927_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mqv8qK)

They did a good job and it was something I'd never be able to get even close with but there were a few gaps to deal with.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/13404230735_7ab742840c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mqubNt)

It was made in two sections as it wasn't possible even for them to bend it in one piece, but it made it really accessible to install the baffle and sump in the right place.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7371/13404240115_c7348511ef.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mqueAc)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7363/13404609804_f4a4d3fede.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mqw8u9)

[CTWV50]

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7095/13404279215_b7c5e80bb2.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mqurdk)

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2854/13404642074_5d5febe974.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mqwi5w)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/13404270315_146173e362.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mquoyT)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3680/13404299155_6a59be712d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mqux98)

It's still not finished as I did have a few small leaks but it's getting there. To be honest I'm surprised it's gone as well as it has.

[CTWV50]

I was getting a lot of leaks around the pump/sender flange. Fuel was creeping around and under the old flange behind my welding (I think). I've now managed to come up with a technique to fill this gap with plumbers solder.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3667/13447714624_db386024f8.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/muk43G)

Needs finishing off. :)

[CTWV50]

Finished all the brazing needed and made a new rubber gasket from some rather expensive Viton rubber, I’m using studs with nylock nuts and washers rather than the mx5 crappy screws which after being fitted and removed 100 times are pretty useless now. These studs are doing the job but they too are starting to show there excessive use so I’ve ordered some M4 12.9 strength allen bolts off ebay for a couple of quid to turn into new studs as I have already broke one of these softer ones and don’t want to be drilling and tapping if another one breaks.

I ground back the welding around all the flanges too to tidy it up a bit, I was also getting contact between some high parts of the welds and the sender unit cover.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2837/13452593994_95d4ccd9bd.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/muL4vL)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3753/13452353103_f06efc020d.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/muJPUt)

I put a couple of gallons of petrol in it last night and had the tank upside down and shook it about this morning after leaving it overnight. No leaks! Woohoo! Just a little chuffed with myself!

No Goo, no JB Weld, no tank sealer or anything just metal rubber and the mazda donor parts. Mission accomplished! Just need to sort out a tethered fuel cap, weld an earth stud on, sort the vapour drain routing, do a little more tidying up and then paint it with the same paint I used on the chassis.

Got the steel delivered the other day as well so I can finish the roll bar this weekend and then I’ll paint that too. :-)

[skov]

Nice work :cool:

[CTWV50]

I think I'll name it Tankenstien!:D

[CTWV50]

Got my tethered cap mount installed, my 2012 Honda Civic now has a Mazda MX5 fuel cap! ;)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/13519179604_28ae5fd63c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mADk6w)

Started welding on various mounts, this one holds the non return valve in place.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/13518945903_e2423c108e.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mAC8Cc)

I did weld all sorts of brackets on as I decided to do away with the tank straps but I forgot to take any more pictures.

Didn't get to paint anything this weekend even though the weather was perfect. Just took ages to get the last part of that roll bar cross in place so it didn't look odd. Only remembered to take a pic after I'd put everything away and it's a pretty bad one that makes it look wonky but here it is anyway.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3745/13518865885_1c8b169b7a.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mABHQz)

As a treat for the missus on Mothers' Day I got here to hold the roll bar in place on the car while I tacked the mounting plates on.

[Oscar]

That's some impressive work, giving me the itch to try making my own tank now...

The fact I can access leak testing equipment and TIG welding through work will probably help me too!

[CTWV50]

That's some impressive work, giving me the itch to try making my own tank now...

The fact I can access leak testing equipment and TIG welding through work will probably help me too!

Thanks, that will definitely be a big advantage if you plan on having a go.:)

[CTWV50]

Better Image of the roll bar all cleaned up.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3775/13544779034_513f8876ab.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mCUwV1)

And my proposed rear stay positions on the car.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3697/13544480525_ce0c32a2b5.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mCT1bi)

Got a quote for powder coating it of £40 but I need to make sure it's nice and clean so it doesn't need media blasting.

[CTWV50]

Finished the tank. Paint job is pretty awful, looks like someone poured the paint on and spread it around with a stick but that epoxy mastic paint is fairly difficult to get even when you have all sorts of nooks and crannies to deal with, but it should help seal it up just incase I missed any longterm tiny leaks.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3690/13579036694_d437ecfcb0.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mFW7wj)

I now have no tank straps, it simply bolts on to the chassis, all the pipe clip brackets are now welded directly to the tank including the drain. I also attached a couple of handles as I intend to take it to a petrol station and brim it and the handles will make it easy to lift it into place on the car.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2913/13578727203_ea8b58a597.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mFUwwg)

Left it testing today, inverted with 4 litres of fuel in it. It better not show any leaks when I get home.:rolleyes:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5205/13578730693_730d237116.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mFUxyr)

[CTWV50]

Just realised it was my build threads 3rd birthday on Monday!

[CTWV50]

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2815/13586105933_7d1e76b517.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mGykXK)

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2817/13586441874_fc983a9031.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mGA4PQ)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7143/13586449804_dd7db8b9dc.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mGA7by)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7233/13586616604_af41662006.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mGAXLq)

Tank doesn't move with the new brackets, absolutely brimmed it at the garage, no leaks and my car still starts. Thank goodness for that, I was beginning to really miss starting it up and having my little tootle arounds. 8 gallon capacity almost on the nose by my reckoning.

[CTWV50]

Finished by roll bar and supports. Took a while to do but I'm really very happy with it and would quite happily be the crash test dummy that tested it! But let's hope it never needs to be tested.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5037/13606643805_8e20d0dbae.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mJnB9Z)

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2892/13607028824_a08c083aae.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mJpzBf)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3782/13606710123_161ae1b178.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mJnWSp)

It's all CDS btw there's a guy called tom (tube bender) iirc on ebay selling the stuff fairly reasonably priced. The 45mm hoop itself cost me £60 and 5 metres of 38mm cost around another £70 I think all delivered foc. I had some crazy quotes from some companies who are just taking the p**s with their prices.

[Davidbolam]

Finished by roll bar and supports. Took a while to do but I'm really very happy with it and would quite happily be the crash test dummy that tested it! But let's hope it never needs to be tested.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5037/13606643805_8e20d0dbae.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mJnB9Z)

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2892/13607028824_a08c083aae.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mJpzBf)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3782/13606710123_161ae1b178.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mJnWSp)

It's all CDS btw there's a guy called tom (tube bender) iirc on ebay selling the stuff fairly reasonably priced. The 45mm hoop itself cost me £60 and 5 metres of 38mm cost around another £70 I think all delivered foc. I had some crazy quotes from some companies who are just taking the p**s with their prices.

The roll bar is looking very good. It looks very caterham with the way it tilts forward. You seem to be cracking on with the build nicely.

Keep posting the photos

David

[CTWV50]

The roll bar is looking very good. It looks very caterham with the way it tilts forward.

Well it was based on that design with the excuse that it gave more protection if needed. But basally I just liked the way they looked. I'm surprised how welll it's come out tbh.

You seem to be cracking on with the build nicely.

I've had a good run for the last 3 months. I'm using the forum posts as a source of motivation, and hope it spurs someone else on too. I can now see the finish line now all the problems I had have been solved.

Keep posting the photos

David

I will, but this weekend I'm under orders to sort the bathroom out, not a job you can start and not finish. And come Monday I'm moving the the business to new premises so no new updates for a while probably.

Yesterday though I did take it for a spin up the neighbours driveway. No one was home so I did my first ever donut by their green houses, felt great and surprisingly controllable. Can't wait to get it on the road.:D

[CTWV50]

As promised, nothing done this weekend. Only body lights and interior to finish! Honest!
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3753/13678436965_f3477d79f3.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mQHyL6)

[Davidbolam]

Last night I made some spacers for the rack just to make sure mr IVA man didn't fail me due to the rack boots touching the wishbones. I'll probably remove them after the IVA as the contact is only very slight. I'm using 12.9 strength M8 hex head bolts with washers and flanged nylock nuts.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2842/13307705164_b628558ed7_b.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3703/13307499013_929c8b65ff_b.jpg

Hi there. What thickness of aluminium did you use for your spacers

I've just realised I've got a problem there as well! My car now looks like it has been taken to bits. I most likely going to have to move my radiator upwards.


Cheers

David

[CTWV50]

Hi there. What thickness of aluminium did you use for your spacers

I've just realised I've got a problem there as well! My car now looks like it has been taken to bits. I most likely going to have to move my radiator upwards.


Cheers

David

THIS IS THE BAR I USED BUT YOU COULD PROBABLY GET AWAY (oops caps) with less thickness than 15mm. Why will you need to move your rad?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151080230038

30mm x 15mm x 250mm

[Davidbolam]

THIS IS THE BAR I USED BUT YOU COULD PROBABLY GET AWAY (oops caps) with less thickness than 15mm. Why will you need to move your rad?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151080230038

30mm x 15mm x 250mm

I've mounted my radiator fairly low and the bottom hose will now rub on the steering rack.

All part of the fun of building a car. I kind of hoped my car was nearly finished but now it's in lots bits in the garage.

Thanks for the link

David

[CTWV50]

I've mounted my radiator fairly low and the bottom hose will now rub on the steering rack.

All part of the fun of building a car. I kind of hoped my car was nearly finished but now it's in lots bits in the garage.

Thanks for the link

David

You could reroute the hose, I used the mazda metal bend to get it up higher out the way.

[CTWV50]

Actually I think I have enough aluminium bar and a spare mazda bend somewhere if you want them.

[CTWV50]

Well that's the backend sorted, black matt/satin powder coated the roll bar. Refitted it immediately. It looks to tall in all these pictures but looks fine in person. Can't figure out why?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/13778006004_c6997acaa2.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mZvTaE)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3789/13778010564_a5b85e82be.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mZvUwh)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3727/13777665843_a8146580d2.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mZu93P)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3803/13777671193_e668a9c8ae.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mZuaD4)

[Davidbolam]

Actually I think I have enough aluminium bar and a spare mazda bend somewhere if you want them.

The aluminium would be handy. Drop me a pm with a price and payment details and I will get it to you. I don't need the bend as I'm going to lift the whole radiator. My radiator isn't as far forward as yours so it wouldn't fit.

Ps the roll bar looks very good.

David

[CTWV50]

The aluminium would be handy. Drop me a pm with a price and payment details and I will get it to you. I don't need the bend as I'm going to lift the whole radiator. My radiator isn't as far forward as yours so it wouldn't fit.

Ps the roll bar looks very good.

David

Send me your address and I'll get it out to you no charge. :)

[CTWV50]

My face very, very early this morning!

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/13816746993_3405bb81f3.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/n3WrvK)

[skov]

My face very, very early this morning!



Have you been out doing doughnuts again? :D

[PorkChop]

Have you been out doing doughnuts again? :D

That's what I look like when I see doughnuts, lovely, lovely sweet doughnuts covered in sugar.... :D

Oh, sorry, wrong kind of doughnuts. My bad.

[CTWV50]

Have you been out doing doughnuts again? :D

Absolutely not, I have no idea what you're talking about?

[CTWV50]

Fitted a 3mm steel sump guard this morning....

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3822/13827611153_32f609948c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/n4U83R)

More of a rock (speed bump) slider. Got the car on a very level surface today sump guard clearance is 60mm:eek: , FF bottom rail is 108mm.

Then I spent the rest of the day playing with the backend bodywork and discovered my tank drain was in the way so I'll be moving that.:rolleyes:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7084/13827518605_084e51c1c1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/n4TDxc)

Red body work looks great with the black everything else.

[ayjay]

My face very, very early this morning!

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/13816746993_3405bb81f3.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/n3WrvK)

TOMMY COOPER:D :D :D

[CTWV50]

Just like that!

http://www.independent.co.uk/migration_catalog/article5242507.ece/ALTERNATES/w620/cooper.jpeg

[flyerncle]

Tommy's clean shaven.....:p

[CTWV50]

No progress on the car, but I have now got all my lights and mounting equipment. Excited!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5232/13896096726_1b0deed036.jpg

Ordered the from Caterham in the end, they are a bit more expensive than other suppliers but after a very bad experience with the quality of other suppliers I went direct to Caterham, and as I'm trying to emulate the look of a Red Caterham R300 I splashed out a little.:D

The quality of these Caterham parts are outstanding I'll post pics as soon as I can.

In other news I've used my new found metal working skills to secure the rear entrance of my new premises, all in 3 and 2mm steel with half inch bars behind the window. Looks a bit like a prison cell!:eek:

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/13919268023_f1bc9f6ccf.jpg

[Davidbolam]

No progress on the car, but I have now got all my lights and mounting equipment. Excited!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5232/13896096726_1b0deed036.jpg

Ordered the from Caterham in the end, they are a bit more expensive than other suppliers but after a very bad experience with the quality of other suppliers I went direct to Caterham, and as I'm trying to emulate the look of a Red Caterham R300 I splashed out a little.:D

The quality of these Caterham parts are outstanding I'll post pics as soon as I can.

In other news I've used my new found metal working skills to secure the rear entrance of my new premises, all in 3 and 2mm steel with half inch bars behind the window. Looks a bit like a prison cell!:eek:

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/13919268023_f1bc9f6ccf.jpg


What are you doing in your new premises? Is this for work or to store you car in?

David

[CTWV50]

Just business premises, opening a shop front for our I.T. repair business. Hard Work. No Easter for me. :)

[CTWV50]

Managed to get a few hours outside with my car this Sunday. Played around with the body work to see if these mirrors I bought would work. They do but only just so I'll probably fit a pair of 'e' marked ones that came off one of my old mans mobility scooters lol. Got a bit carried away taking pictures of it.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7452/14058898653_f225d860f6_o.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7444/14015776186_a770df1f64_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5325/14039366974_4054b735c9_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5203/14058925943_568d9fb88c_o.jpg

Had to cut the scuttle around my peddle box, tricky bit of work that so I made an mdf template first and with a few adjustments it went on ok and I could pin down it's final position. I'll be able to use the original mx5 column shroud with no big gap between it and the dash which was handy.

[CTWV50]

Got carried away with the body panels, fitting them long before I should be. Thank god I resisted the urge to get the rivet gun and drill out.:roll eyes:

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2911/14069781944_a450efb839_o.jpg

[dubzter]

Just read this entire thread, some great work, car is looking fantastic. Really makes me want to get cracking with a build of my own.

[flyerncle]

Too many pictures are never enough. :p

[CTWV50]

Just read this entire thread, some great work, car is looking fantastic. Really makes me want to get cracking with a build of my own.

Glad it's inspired you, we all need as much motivation as possible to finish these cars I think.

Too many pictures are never enough. :p

Agreed!:D

[CTWV50]

EYES?

TaDa!

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/13920685268_f808af6f31_o.jpg

There's loads more pictures on the stream.

To fit lights i had to do this to a brand new 21mm spanner!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/14127285233_34923b6a60_o.jpg

As you can see I've moved the light up and forward to get the indicators in a IVA legal position, mimicking Caterham's design.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/14107808834_b0bbd92672_o.jpg

[CTWV50]

I am doing the wiring.................the end! :|

[CTWV50]

After 25 hours in the garage my horn now works, well one of them anyway!;)

Tomorrow night I should have the headlights and front indicators wired up and the fuse box and relays finalised.

Leaving the dash wiring and the rear light wiring until the body work and tunnel is fitted although it will all be tested beforehand.

All the steering column is wired up along with the mx5 brake switch and instrument cluster.

I've made the wiring loom so that is can be unplugged from the engine loom for when I fit another engine. I've also used the mx5 wiring diagrams so that I can easily, lol, find faults in the future.

[Wgroove]

Nice work !!!
I also bought the caterham style indicators and headlights. Now i've got a very good example how to do it.(nice pics in your photostream)
Thanks,

Wim.

[CTWV50]

Nice work !!!
I also bought the caterham style indicators and headlights. Now i've got a very good example how to do it.(nice pics in your photostream)
Thanks,

Wim.

No problem. I used chopped up front mx5 brake calliper pistons and 12mm mild steel round bar, big washers and chopped up coach bolts to mount to the old mounting points.

Wiring update.

After getting the fuse box all sorted and neat and all the wires needed to the front of the car, I discovered I had a popped 20Amp fuse in the (ad) fan location, I stupidly assumed this was the rad fan being tired at around 10:30pm and spent an hour looking for the problem. Couldn't find the issue and went to bed. Spent another hour in the morning looking at it again and then realised it wasn't the cooling fan fuse at all! Just some f***ng random fuse that doesn't appear anywhere in the wiring diagrams and is for the fan if you have Aircon. WTF the car never came with aircon why did they fit a fuse that's some how now pops whenever it's replaced. Bit p***d off about that.

Anyway I ended up checking all my wiring out sort of and couldn't find a single problem which I suppose is good.

Tonight I never got into the garage till 9pm, two hours later i had fully functioning head lamps !

So I guess this little modification worked

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7409/14129851711_31807086d8_o.jpg

Clocks at night

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7367/14192370872_6da6d5107a_o.jpg

Main Beam

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5511/14192373022_f00f85e193_o.jpg

side lights in the garage

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2935/14194916415_de9bbcbbf0_o.jpg

[Wgroove]

EYES?

TaDa!

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/13920685268_f808af6f31_o.jpg

There's loads more pictures on the stream.

To fit lights i had to do this to a brand new 21mm spanner!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/14127285233_34923b6a60_o.jpg

As you can see I've moved the light up and forward to get the indicators in a IVA legal position, mimicking Caterham's design.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/14107808834_b0bbd92672_o.jpg

I'm a bit confused about the position of the front indicators. Can you explain the 80° rule for IVA ?

Regards,

Wim.

[CTWV50]

I'm a bit confused about the position of the front indicators. Can you explain the 80° rule for IVA ?

Regards,

Wim.

Well you have to be able to see 50% of the indicator reflector lens at 80˚ from the direction of travel of the car on the indicators' side and 20˚ to the opposite side.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2905/14201732136_8bb985da2a_o.jpg

All light wiring for me is now done. One trunk of 16mm split conduit takes the wiring from the steering column to the fuse box and then back out to the front, back and clocks. Worked out quite neat but have had to order more 16mm p-clips, some ballast resistors for the led side repeaters and some 6mm split conduit to finish it off. I put the pump wiring into this conduit to the rear. When the bodywork is on I'll finish the wiring at the rear. I'll take some photos of the wiring when it's finished.

As it stands currently, flattened the battery leaving the ignition on!

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14038281458_7b22829cf1_o.jpg

I've made a start on the side panels for the tunnel and ordered some foam and black vinyl. I also have some carbon fibre look ABS plastic for the dash. Can't really get my head around the fact I'm thinking about interior trim! Weird! Am I really that far along? I must of missed something out!:rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

Started tunnelling but first the back panel vinyl glueing.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2909/14089915068_340d9dbeeb_o.jpg

Quite like the rivets showing through.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3750/14296763193_09c10d4164_o.jpg

Did the drivers side too but never got round to take pictures. I will definitely fix it all in place this week after I've convince myself I won't need to go in there again soon.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2907/14276120564_390e689468_o.jpg

[Davidbolam]

Your build is coming along really nicely,

Have you decided on a suitable aeroscreen yet?

I was waiting for AGM to develop his but its all gone a bit quiet..


David

[CTWV50]

Your build is coming along really nicely,

Have you decided on a suitable aeroscreen yet?

I was waiting for AGM to develop his but its all gone a bit quiet..


David

Cheers, still got the saturn one but it doesn't fit. Might chop the ends off so it does unless I can come up with an alternative.

[CTWV50]

Got the interior tunnel sides buttoned up.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3794/14313320933_ede52b5991_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5595/14270011146_4d929a5477_o.jpg

Wiring to rear is secured and got carried away fitting the drivers 4 point harness

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3683/14106489338_44f7bba2c7_o.jpg

Today I removed the light and wing brackets and painted them. Starting to get difficult to put off fitting the side panels and rear tub. Weird! :confused:

[CTWV50]

Tidied up the tank removing the old drain route brackets. Nervous work with a full tank of fuel!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5538/14117413498_dc7d18d15e_o.jpg

New drain route.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/14117380799_a7fb600c10_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5563/14117443480_9f67594131_o.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2923/14117533627_c36301c6e2_o.jpg

[CTWV50]

Tank wiring route finalised.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3696/14117382239_f0419bff90_o.jpg

Seat trim. Might spray the seat backs as they look a bit crap.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3682/14303496484_6e7021b785_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5535/14324251293_2faa27388b_o.jpg

[CTWV50]

Oh yes a picture of the front. Painted the rad fins, wing stays, light mounts, horns etc. matt black.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2935/14300987701_eb8844263d_o.jpg

black, black, black I say! Like the Japanese hair, I'm hiding in

[jason 82]

Hi Chris, making really good progress now fella ! Did you need to cut the prop after ? Or is it a perfect fit without modification ?:D

[CTWV50]

Hi Chris, making really good progress now fella ! Did you need to cut the prop after ? Or is it a perfect fit without modification ?:D

Yeah you need have the prop shortened leaving about an inch of movement in it. Costs about £60.

[jason 82]

Yeah you need have the prop shortened leaving about an inch of movement in it. Costs about £60.

Cheers for that. Who do you recommend ?:cool:

[CTWV50]

You'd really need to have everything in it's final position and measure the distance between, bugger to get right otherwise. I can measure mine is you like. Oh who, sorry. I used A1 propshafts in Liverpool, did it for £60 mostly does things like bus and lorry props i think, turned it around in a week all balanced, lovely welding.

[CTWV50]

Sunday! I should of stayed in bed. Opened the garage door and one of the cables let go. Tried to fix it as I have done in the past, made it worse and lost all the spring tension, having fixed it before about 8 times in the last 3 years I said "no more" and spent the next hour finding a replacement to buy on the internet. Guess what I'll be doing next weekend!

Anyway, calmed down enough to have a go at the tunnel cover. I'm doing it in sections as I can't get my head around doing it all in one go. This was the first attempt, too much foam and a bit weak on top but I gave it to the wife hoping she'd be able to do a good job covering it in vinyl! Sorry luv it was crap!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5501/14332299854_cedf02fb2c_o.jpg

At this point I almost gave up for the day but I decided to simplify it and strengthen it and try again.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3896/14333021835_70137032a3_o.jpg

Recognise the the button fixing? oh yes Mazda genuine items.:cool:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14353220943_0e66a3bdaa_o.jpg

It's very comfortable, just the right height. Used 1/4" high density foam and just covered the top in the end.

Doing around the hand brake is going to be a t**t of a job, me and my great ideas hey.

edit: Oh yeah, edged the seats too for the very sensitive IVA ( it's a bit rough for me, I want it nice and smooth like a babes bottom) man. I have to say I hate the IVA man!!!!!

[CTWV50]

The things you find yourself buying at 1am. Mr IVA man and his big balls (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rosewood-Mega-Mashers-Ball-Dog-Toy-/151219429786?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Kitchen_Steamers_Co okers_PP&var=&hash=item233561619a):eek:

[CTWV50]

Oh the other day I was after some rubber edged trim (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC2.A0.H0. Xrubber+edge+trim&_nkw=rubber+edge+trim&_sacat=0&_from=R40). Scroll down a bit!:eek:

[CTWV50]

So it appears a good read and clear interpretation of the IVA manual regarding the interior projections is time well spent. I thought I'd be messing around with the pedals, steering column, and making all sorts of awkward cover panels in this area but it appears they mostly fall within the exempt zone of the steering wheel or are in fact exempt themselves.

"Visually check (using the measuring equipment as necessary) the vehicle interior surfaces, fittings and design features to ensure that contactable edges have an acceptable radius or have “Blunted edges” as required. Note the following are “exempted items” the surface of a window, seat controls, seat runners, seat belt locking mechanisms and the vehicle control pedals."

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2923/14328161726_4ecaf3b134_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5235/14351299295_9825ee019a_o.jpg

Have a feeling on my car the rear seatbelt fixings are also within the exempt zone.

Will I dare to test the theory though. I recon If I can get my switches, fog and hazard and the exempt zone I only really have to worry about the dash fixings and lower edge on the passenger side. :cool:

[skov]

May I direct you to Section 16 - Exterior Projections.
It reads:

Where a vehicle is not fitted with a roof the areas referred to in section
12 Annex 1 shall be assessed to the requirements of this section. The
exempted areas detailed in annex 1 of section 12 still apply to roofless
vehicles if a windscreen is fitted.

Which I believe means that those areas are not exempt on a roofless windscreenless car, but tested against the exterior projection rules :o

[CTWV50]

May I direct you to Section 16 - Exterior Projections.
It reads:

Where a vehicle is not fitted with a roof the areas referred to in section
12 Annex 1 shall be assessed to the requirements of this section. The
exempted areas detailed in annex 1 of section 12 still apply to roofless
vehicles if a windscreen is fitted.

Which I believe means that those areas are not exempt on a roofless windscreenless car, but tested against the exterior projection rules :o

LOL Bloody Hell! :rolleyes: I really hate the IVA man!!!

[skov]

Ha ha, I thought you'd like that one :p

I love how they sneak these little snippets into the manual where you'd least expect them :D

[CTWV50]

So all the car has too comp to exterior 100mm ball test and requirements. No 165mm ball test at all.

If any pedestrian I knock over finds his knee under my side of the dash then I doubt he'll be particularly concerned about his friggin knee! I'll be bloody concerned because he'll be sitting in my bloody lap! If his heads down then there then that's really worrying!:eek:

[CTWV50]

This ball is becoming quite a problem for me.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5569/14439519635_e57aac993e_o.jpg

Not anymore...

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3893/14252894609_6770db866f_o.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5570/14252909609_da36ed193c_o.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14416456776_740ab05b64_o.jpg

Not my best work but who's going to see it down there. And if the MAN wants to wave his balls around my undercarriage he's going to be disappointed. Obviously I have to do a bit more finishing off. This job is NOT my favourite bit!

[CTWV50]

Classic bodging!;)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3925/14439586655_12fbb872b3_o.jpg

[CTWV50]

Arrived this morning.....

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2927/14439245171_5a6d829280_z.jpg

So my vehicle should follow the flow diagram path, yes, yes, no. Assuming it fails the BET test, which is likely.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5542/14462802163_d60c633977_z.jpg

Any haynes built using an engine from a vehicle manufactured during 1995, before or after July 1995, will have an Engine manufacture 'Effective Date" of 1st January 1995 if you can prove the engines date of manufacture as the letter above does. Useful to know for other builders as older mx5 cars get rarer, which will probably happen soon I think the way the sills rust through.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5501/14442653955_6abdde77ef_z.jpg

[skov]

No CAT for you :D

[CTWV50]

I've kind of got carried away after having to replace the garage door. I'm now replacing the rotten window and have already rewired the garage, fitted an alarm and it's now brighter than the sun in there when you turn on the lights. Oh and a tool board with shelving. I thought I'd make the garage more usable now I've nearly finished building this car! :rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

Piccy. Someone gave me some MDF and it was taking up space in the garage making it smaller so I reversed it into making the garage bigger! Needs more tool hangers (small screws) .

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14310108437_b37f2ac056_z.jpg

[CTWV50]

So I'm in the process of attaching lots of little bits of rubber and plastic to my car in a most unenthusiastic way. Not enjoying this bit at all.https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2935/14581311543_9e500ef198_z.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3842/14560379722_745dcd8438_z.jpghttps://farm3.staticflickr.com/2940/14374625499_3b3c54d932_z.jpg

Decided to do a compression test on the engine. Probably out of pure boredom but it's good to know where you stand with an engine before you put it back on the road after 5+ years without any regular miles.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3924/14559580594_1767ecc38d_z.jpg

Happy with that. Couldn't get my head round the high numbers as 9.0 CR x 14.7 is around 130 odd psi

bit of digging.....

Compression Tests

1.6 Miata has a compression ratio of 9.4 to 1. So 14.7 psi times 9.4 equals 138 psi. But the Shop Manual lists 192 psi due to heat raise from dynamic compression. Cam timing also affects the pressure reached on the gauge. The longer duration the cam, the less the pressure.

From 1992 Mazda workshop manual (1.6L).
Compression ratio: 9.4:1 (manual), 9.0:1 (auto).
Compression pressure for both;
Standard; 192 psi,
Minimum; 135 psi,
Maximum difference between each cylinder; 28 psi.

From 1995 Mazda workshop manual (1.8L)
Compression ratio; 9.0:1 (manual and auto)
Compression pressure;
Standard; 182 psi,
Minimum; 128 psi,
Maximum difference between each cylinder; 28 psi.

in Mk2 1.8 209 is standard, 146 is minimum, max difference between cylinders 28 PSI.

Explains a lot....

[CTWV50]

In other news I've spoken to the new wizkid at work and he things this is doable..

Lukasz, here's the schematic:

http://i.imgur.com/8R3ifn9.png

You can use Arduino Uno or whatever to test, but then to embed something smaller like Nano or Pro Mini is more convenient.

If you look at the source, https://github.com/alga/shiftlight/blob/master/shiftlight.ino , you'll see that the pin numbers of the input and outputs, as well as RPMs for each led and for the blinking warning are spelled out in the constant definitions.

In order to set the switchover RPMs on a button press you'll need to add a button that grounds one of the free input pins, set the mode for that pin to INPUT_PULLUP, and in the loop check if the pin is LOW, and if it is, fill in the thresholds array with the new values based on current RPM. You'll need to delete the const specifier from the variable definition in order to be able to modify the array. Piece of cake.

So I have someone to hold my hand if/when I have a go at this. I did, rather impulsively buy this (http://www.digital-speedos.co.uk/4-level-race-shift-light-129-p.asp) at the weekend and hooked it up tonight. Works well. Instructions for setting it up are a bit rubbish but it's straight forward really. If I can make my own I'd use that instead and integrate it into the dash somehow.

[CTWV50]

Well I have finally bitten the bullet and started attaching the body panels. Still can't fully commit as I know I'll have to take them off again for some reason or other so I've decided to use rivnuts wherever possible.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2906/14412947530_a4753ca1f7_z.jpg

I'm using stainless steel M4 6mm dia. flat head nuts with 12.9 high strength M4 hex head bolts 20mm long. The reason is because a small allen key will be ideal to get into tight areas if ever panels need to come off and you alway have the option of gripping them with a pair of pliers if the hex head rounds out.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2910/14576569766_785d458bce_z.jpg

I'm using some small washers to spread the load and tight as I am I did buy the memfast.co.uk rivnut tool as I am a big believer that the right tools make a job much more enjoyable and quicker. I can always sell it in the future but I think it's a keeper.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14412986498_82f9075fe8_z.jpg

I was struggling to figure out where the chassis rails where before drilling a 4.5mm hole through the fibreglass but then had the bright idea using my pyjamed assistant to shine torchlight through the back of the panel and as it was almost dark this worked brilliantly in getting the holes in the right place.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3906/14619668663_3c17c37d37_z.jpg

I then removed the panels and drilled a 6mm hole in the same position for the rivnut. Rivnut tool is great you can hold everything steady while you hand tighten the bolt. Only needed forearm strength for M4 stainless rivnuts to spread enough.

cont......

[CTWV50]

I'm looking forward to doing the rest as it went so well!

Bad shot.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5575/14576574846_cf027b3822_z.jpg

[CTWV50]

Done the other side, it's coming together now. :)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5531/14607802305_66f9b33a50_z.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3849/14607805585_dd8b6a5352_z.jpg

Might get it on the ramps next and do the underneath rivnuts.:rolleyes:

[skov]

Looking good Chris :cool:

[CTWV50]

Arches.......
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2936/14435892760_2e70eeac40_z.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3841/14642495433_fd663a13b7_z.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2923/14620485364_caf5648b7d_z.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3851/14599581276_211913fc52_z.jpg

[CTWV50]

I used these collapsing rivnuts. Really easy to install hopefully they will hold.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3921/14436217317_0e96197b7e_z.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2910/14599616096_5b090f8a74_z.jpg

[CTWV50]

Coming together, now the weather has decided what to do!:rolleyes:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5537/14647229355_da3cc8a9fa_b.jpg

Honestly, it looks better in person. It's a bit of shock when you step out the house and look up, not expecting it to be there, or look so red!:) I can feel the end.....

[voucht]

Hi Chris,

First, I think the car looks very good. Very red indeed, but it is not shocking to me, I really like it :) You're almost done, congratulations!

I fitted my rear arches this week-end too, and I was wondering: what kind of trim/piping did you use between the arches and the side panels/rear tube? I can see a black lining there on your pictures, and I often saw that on finished cars, but I don't know what it is, and I'd like to put some on my car too to seal this part.

Could you please let me know?

Thanks.

[flyerncle]

"P" Trim Sylvain.;)

[skov]

That is looking very red and very cool :cool:

[CTWV50]

Hi Chris,

First, I think the car looks very good. Very red indeed, but it is not shocking to me, I really like it :) You're almost done, congratulations!

I fitted my rear arches this week-end too, and I was wondering: what kind of trim/piping did you use between the arches and the side panels/rear tube? I can see a black lining there on your pictures, and I often saw that on finished cars, but I don't know what it is, and I'd like to put some on my car too to seal this part.

Could you please let me know?

Thanks.

Hi Sylvian, Thanks for the comments. If you do an ebay search for "wing piping" there are some people shipping internationally. Or try this link it was cheaper for me than ebay.

http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=2547

That is looking very red and very cool :cool:

Cheers John. Any sign of your new body work from Gillhams?

[skov]

Cheers John. Any sign of your new body work from Gillhams?

No, not yet, but it's only been 11 weeks since I placed the order :rolleyes:

[voucht]

Hi Sylvian, Thanks for the comments. If you do an ebay search for "wing piping" there are some people shipping internationally. Or try this link it was cheaper for me than ebay.

http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=2547



Cheers John. Any sign of your new body work from Gillhams?

OK, now that I see it, I understand better. I think I'm going to order some from Kitspares with other stuffs I need.
Thanks for the help :)

[CTWV50]

Last night I dug out the Saturn/NTS/Gillham Aero thingumajig to see if it fit's, and it kind of does. There is a small gap but a bit of foam strip should do. Took loads of pictures which you can look at in my photo stream.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3859/14481082410_bf610ddb33_b.jpg

So if you can live with the gap this seems a good solution to the AGM body for an aero screen.

[Stot]

Looks virtually complete now. Nice.

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

Thanks, nearly there yes, but still lots to do! Now that some idiot has built a car in my garage I can only do stuff car related in the garage when it's sunny! Doh! Time for a car port!:D or a big tent! Aiming to be applying for the IVA around October time. Should be on the road for Christmas! Useful!!!:rolleyes:

Bought a Dremel this week and did this with it.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/14679917284_dfce50642b.jpg

[CTWV50]

Some images of my front end before I button it up I've added more p-clips to the front brake pipe that travels around the front of the engine bay and decided not to run side repeaters on the cycle wings, they looked crap and now I've had to have one cycle wing repaired. I've managed to get three accessible fixings for the nose on either side as well.https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5561/14573067399_9f13daa983.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/14756545161_c977d088f4.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3840/14573092498_8e49598410.jpghttps://farm6.staticflickr.com/5559/14756546971_1bcf495b86.jpg

[CTWV50]

I also got to fixing the bottom of the nose but decided to make a fixing plate come skid plate to protect the nose incase I hit an awkward camber or something. Roads around here can be quite shocking.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3926/14573289548_89c2a79e54_c.jpg

Also started fixing the lower part of the side panels.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5559/14757574784_937d5304e9_c.jpg

[CTWV50]

So I'm spitting my dummy out about this side repeater nonsense. The IVA manual needs rewriting here as it's fairly ambiguous, but aparently they should be able to be seen between 5˚ and 60˚ from the direction of travel from the rear but also vertically between 5˚ below and 15˚ above. All of this isn't really a problem apart from the 5˚ below which in a car as low as ours is damn right dumb and causes a problem due to the rear wing unless your happy to fit a side repeater to your front or rear arch.

Whomever needs to see my side repeater from 5˚ below a car no higher than 750mm is a dead man as he's almost lying on the floor in the middle of the road. Unless we now have to take into consideration dogs and toddlers.

But anyway I think I found a suitable yet unusual position. Call me mad but you can see the corner of the scuttle/dash from this viewpoint.

5˚ out and below
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3904/14584387468_d9d0470588_c.jpg

Proposed position
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2935/14584557907_ec614e5de1_c.jpg

60˚ out
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2907/14771042395_ebc4a24a24_c.jpg

If anyone knows of any reason why this is a nono location please let me know.

[Ste W]

I would be fitting a more bulbous side repeater onto the side of the scuttle panel rather than at the rear. Obviously can be changed in the future.

something like this

http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/e/9/5/f/e95fdb6e1fcec221787928cde8db8456325974a1/PRC4562-RANGE-ROVER-CLASSIC-SIDE-REPEATER-LAMP.jpg

will look better in the long run and will fulfill the iva requirements

[CTWV50]

I would be fitting a more bulbous side repeater onto the side of the scuttle panel rather than at the rear. Obviously can be changed in the future.

something like this

http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/e/9/5/f/e95fdb6e1fcec221787928cde8db8456325974a1/PRC4562-RANGE-ROVER-CLASSIC-SIDE-REPEATER-LAMP.jpg

will look better in the long run and will fulfill the iva requirements

Your right, I was thinking I'd fit them in the dash panel in this location and then later fit them were I want them on the side of the car after the IVA and use a small grommet to fill in the old hole in the dash. Or not even bother and just delete them entirely. I like the way my car looks I don't want anything else on the side of it. :mad:

I hate the IVA man!!!:)

[SeriesLandy]

Are you sure that you can see the side repeater from the rear. I managed to see it 5deg to the side but not 5deg down. The arch was in the way. Even though you would see the rear indicator.
I put mine in the rear arch (the small led ones from bolt on bits) I tapped it into the rear lights.
If you do this it must be a max of 2600mm from the front.

[Stot]

I would be fitting a more bulbous side repeater onto the side of the scuttle panel rather than at the rear. Obviously can be changed in the future.

something like this

http://www.lrseries.com/resources/user/e/9/5/f/e95fdb6e1fcec221787928cde8db8456325974a1/PRC4562-RANGE-ROVER-CLASSIC-SIDE-REPEATER-LAMP.jpg

will look better in the long run and will fulfill the iva requirements

You need to double check the edges on these indicators. They are what I had and failed the 2.5mm radius, I ended up filing them down and polishing them to get through the IVA.

I mentioned when I was there that many OEMs have items on their cars that would never pass the IVA and he pointed out that although thats true they will test their cars to destruction and 'prove' that the item wont cause harm. Not sure I want to do that with my one off. :eek:

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

Has anyone who has been through an IVA actually seen the IVA man test, with measuring equipment, this 5deg behind and below rule for a side repeater? I know that Ajay and spikehaus have passed with side repeaters mounted on the side of the scuttle.

[CTWV50]

Are you sure that you can see the side repeater from the rear. I managed to see it 5deg to the side but not 5deg down. The arch was in the way. Even though you would see the rear indicator.
I put mine in the rear arch (the small led ones from bolt on bits) I tapped it into the rear lights.
If you do this it must be a max of 2600mm from the front.

Yep tested it with string, an iPhone inclinometer and a bit of trigonometry , remember you only need to be able to see 50% mind. I'll test it again though!

[skov]

Has anyone who has been through an IVA actually seen the IVA man test, with measuring equipment, this 5deg behind and below rule for a side repeater? I know that Ajay and spikehaus have passed with side repeaters mounted on the side of the scuttle.

My IVA man didn't measure it explicitly, but he did squat down at the rear of the car to look at them from approximately 5deg out / 5deg down.
I suspect he would have got some equipment out if he was in any doubt.
He also said he commonly fails people for putting them on the scuttle.

I personally wouldn't risk mounting it somewhere you know it would fail - you'd be kicking yourself if that was the only thing you failed on!

[SeriesLandy]

My iva man didn't measure but did have a good look.
To start with I didn't like the idea of having them in the arches but I think I prefer them now. They are unobtrusive and keeps the scuttle looking clean.

I used these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390833492409) without the rubber grommet. They are a tight fit but also held in with tiger seal and then in split conduit stuck to the inside of the arch lip.

I also used a pair of superseal (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321418356615) connectors so I can take the arch off if I need to.

[CTWV50]

MMmmm. OK, one last try before I give in and put those micro led ones on the rear arches.

Going to see how these will look on the front cycle wings.

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/stick-on-amber-led-indicator-pair-leda9

Can't understand why they made a micro led side repeater that needs a 20mm hole to be fitted? :confused:

[CTWV50]

Glued in the grill with some tiger seal. Messy job. I used a bit of MDF and a broken paving slab to hold it down as it was a bit springy being stainless steel.https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2917/14625633370_a9e3dde55e_c.jpg

Done.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5563/14625635850_6193b0a7ec_c.jpg

Mmm not sure about the shiny look.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/14625685749_b1c6d09258_c.jpg
Got a grill badge made and painted it to highlight the the number 7 and the superman surround. It didn't look right with the grill I thought.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5583/14832166853_68a3a5b9f3_c.jpg

[CTWV50]

Fully masked the nose and then two coats of primer from all angles.https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3885/14809245421_4eb2388c33_c.jpg

Then three coats of halfords best smooth black paint.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3910/14789345556_bf85c9ff36_c.jpg

That looked much better I thought.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3853/14832202103_6f4e438b94_c.jpg

Used a little zip tie to hold it in place, think I'll leave it off until after the IVA just incase they don't like it for some reason.

[CTWV50]

Fitted my stick on bendy side repeaters.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3840/14625725399_4d5891e61b_c.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2907/14625751398_8e8f03e6dc_c.jpg

That will do. They may fall off though!;) Only had to drill a 4mm hole to fit and a block resistor in parallel.

[K4KEV]

Hi Chris.....I hope I am wrong about this....BUT I am not so sure the angles look right for a repeater "pass" is that really 5 degrees out from the repeater ? but not only that from the rear the angles of "e" (from the iva diagram) it would certainly not be visible due to the rear arches, maybe some one can clarify this or am I reading it totally wrong:(

[CTWV50]

Hi Chris.....I hope I am wrong about this....BUT I am not so sure the angles look right for a repeater "pass" is that really 5 degrees out from the repeater ? but not only that from the rear the angles of "e" (from the iva diagram) it would certainly not be visible due to the rear arches, maybe some one can clarify this or am I reading it totally wrong:(

Hi Kev, that image was taken probably less than 5˚, I wasn't really trying to show the viewable angles in that shot but there's no way that side repeater is not visible from 5˚ at any possible height. I found this thread (http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/29/viewthread.php?tid=180358) recently and he passed no issue on his build. I hope that clarifies things. :)

[K4KEV]

Thank god for that;) ....looking really good by the way, shut lines around the bonnet look very neat without the usual edging, I would be very surprised if you don't get a first time pass with the meticulous manner with which you have went about your build

[CTWV50]

Thank god for that;) ....looking really good by the way, shut lines around the bonnet look very neat without the usual edging, I would be very surprised if you don't get a first time pass with the meticulous manner with which you have went about your build

Thanks, I think you have to aim for a first time pass in the hope you only get a few small fails that can be sorted out quickly. I was dreading nose, bonnet, scuttle alinement issues but I got lucky I think.

[CTWV50]

Reached a small milestone this week. I have now completed the from the tip of the nose to the to the start of the bonnet including side repeaters and ballast resistors wired in parallel, lights, self centring, IVA exterior projections and grill.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5554/14850172055_df931ffba0_c.jpg

Took a little celebration picture. :) To motivate me to do the rest soon.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5586/14870066673_63152db653_b.jpg

Next is side panels secured, exhaust hole surround, bonnet catches and everything else that need finishing off under the bonnet.

[skov]

Looking awsome mate, all coming together very nicely indeed!

[Davidbolam]

That looks very nice. Shouldn't be long now until it's all done!

[CTWV50]

Looking awsome mate, all coming together very nicely indeed!

That looks very nice. Shouldn't be long now until it's all done!


Thanks, still enjoying it. Not rushing just taking my time when the weathers nice. Be a bit sad to finish it tbh. I ordered these bonnet spring catches off ebay, and they've worked out well. Initially I thought they'd be an exterior projections nightmare but I found some rubber covers in my little junkyard that have done the trick.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/14858921661_12df8f8c66_n.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3899/14839013366_80b57ec276_n.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3906/14881873923_ce1fefaa49_n.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/14675382298_3c5c4c49a9_n.jpg

[CTWV50]

Here are those covers. Fit like a glove.:cool:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3891/14858923641_68ece37898_n.jpg

Side are also all buttoned up too now.

[CTWV50]

Got the rear bonnet catches done the other day.They come with IVA covers from caterham and are reasonably priced they hold the bonnet down really tight.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/14957689832_2b2cbd0d1a_n.jpghttps://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/14771441398_5e90b3aa18_n.jpg

Also got my pedal removable cover sorted out with a nice little hole for the speedo cable

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3891/14935048546_95e590df70_n.jpghttps://farm6.staticflickr.com/5582/14957692022_7a4ea14ede_n.jpg

[CTWV50]

ECU is now solidly mounted to the inside of the scuttle. I'm starting to sort out under the dash.I've put it off long enough.:rolleyes: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3881/14771365029_fc9f8e6e38_n.jpg

[onedayTM]

hi chris just been looking at your build, really great job but I noticed that you lowered your floor which is something I am looking at doing as I'm quite tall and would like to sit abit lower in the car. Can you tell me how much you lowered by and what thickness steel you used.
cheers
tony

[TalonMotorFabrication]

You could just swap BR1-12 and the bottom of the front frame for 50x25mm ERW, then just build as usual to keep every thing easy to work out. Obviously you'd be looking at custom side panels and you'd need to rework the bottom of the nose.

[CTWV50]

As the engine needed dropping 40mm below the bottom rails, I decided to drop the floor 40mm as well as I felt like I was sitting on top of the car. I used 3mm thick 50mm x 50mm angle iron stitch welded to the bottom rail, this added 12.75kg to the weight. The angle was welded to the inside of all the bottom rails of the drivers side but to the outer rails of the drivers side tunnel so I could run brake and fuel lines along it. A 2mm steel floor was used. On the pass side I just wanted the seat height to match. So I just lowered where the seat bolted in.

If I was doing it again. I would buy 2mm steel sheet, mark out where I wanted it bent and have the local steel yard bend it as this would save some weight, but not much. And it would be a better job I might imagine.

Seats bolt straight to the floor.

Hope that helps.:)

[onedayTM]

ok thanks chris.

[CTWV50]

A Little job but very satisfying and motivating.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5553/14814953018_5bfe633910.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3899/15001558825_c4c0f74fd2.jpg

Thank you very much David. Love the Mazda IVA cover. Wheel feels great in your hands and there's more cockpit space now for my knees. I can still see my clocks and, as an added bonus, I can get in like getting in the bath rather than getting in to a sewer pipe, like before.:D

[CTWV50]

Let this be a lesson to all of you!

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3905/14848254698_c9fddb5e67.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3894/14848216170_967eef8599.jpg

PLAN YOUR WIRING/PANELING CAREFULLY. Took me all day that did!:roll eyes:

edit: used an old filing cabinet. Hence the brown.

[K4KEV]

nice job Chris....neater than mine:(

[CTWV50]

nice job Chris....neater than mine:(

Wiring is neatish, I suppose. Panelling on the other hand is.....interesting!:D

[rpjg1975]

Let this be a lesson to all of you!

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3905/14848254698_c9fddb5e67.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3894/14848216170_967eef8599.jpg

PLAN YOUR WIRING/PANELING CAREFULLY. Took me all day that did!:roll eyes:

edit: used an old filing cabinet. Hence the brown.

Sounds familiar.....my filing cabinet was grey!!!! :D

[CTWV50]

Sounds familiar.....my filing cabinet was grey!!!! :D

Good strong, yet thin steel!:)

update.

After getting the fuse box all sorted and neat and all the wires needed to the front of the car, I discovered I had a popped 20Amp fuse in the (ad) fan location, I stupidly assumed this was the rad fan being tired at around 10:30pm and spent an hour looking for the problem. Couldn't find the issue and went to bed. Spent another hour in the morning looking at it again and then realised it wasn't the cooling fan fuse at all! Just some f***ng random fuse that doesn't appear anywhere in the wiring diagrams and is for the fan if you have Aircon. WTF the car never came with aircon why did they fit a fuse that's some how now pops whenever it's replaced. Bit p***d off about that.

Anyway I ended up checking all my wiring out sort of and couldn't find a single problem which I suppose is good.

Tonight I never got into the garage till 9pm, two hours later i had fully functioning head lamps !

Remember this? No. Well I did. Yesterday I found the problem. Hidden in a wiring rubber boot I found a connector with nothing to plug it into?!? Seems there is a little black wire with little silver bands that comes from the main engine loom. It's just an earth. But it fits perfectly into an unused hole in the fuse box and will quiet neatly earth the unused AD FAN fuse.:mad: Confused as to why everything still worked fine without this earth connected up to the front loom section as it should, I discovered that it is just an earth loop in the wiring diagrams. Odd! Anyway at least I know why that fuse was popping.:rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

Ordered a CBS dash blank in black GRP, I received a GRP dash blank in various shades/finishes inc scratched, dull and flaky. What the hell is wrong with these companies!!!!

Anyway, I couldn't be arsed sending it back at this late stage so I'll cover or paint it. Sick of these companies I really am.

Good news is it's strong and I don't have to worry about damaging it's perfect finish, and I managed to get it half way fitted fairly easily.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/14859160760_f6c987d34d.jpghttps://farm6.staticflickr.com/5558/14859101279_1a048bf392.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5583/15042760451_d9d039bc0d.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/14859274407_c50a05a37f.jpg

[CTWV50]

Thought it was worth a moan....

"Hello CBS,

I received this item today, on time and well packed. Thank you. Unfortunately the items finish is really bad and is unusable as a finished item with the quality and finish of the gel coat. I was most disappointed. Not wanting to go to the effort of returning it, with it being a large item, but unhappy to accept it in it's current condition. I would consider a partial refund to go towards having it painted or covered by some means. I would accept a £25 partial refund even though this would not fully cover painting it gloss black.

Best Regards"

Reply.....

"Hi Chris, sorry about that. I'm not happy about charging you for that either. Not sure why it was sent not polished, the warehouse guys must be packing with their eyes shut!!!!. Please keep it with my apologies, I have refunded you in full. If you would rather a replacement please let me know.

Matt"

:D CBS are OK! Like a good company does, they accept their mistakes and rectify them quickly.

[thailoz]

Thats good to hear I am happy it got sorted and CBS are a good company as i will be ordering from them soon

[dubzter]

Thought it was worth a moan....

"Hello CBS,

I received this item today, on time and well packed. Thank you. Unfortunately the items finish is really bad and is unusable as a finished item with the quality and finish of the gel coat. I was most disappointed. Not wanting to go to the effort of returning it, with it being a large item, but unhappy to accept it in it's current condition. I would consider a partial refund to go towards having it painted or covered by some means. I would accept a £25 partial refund even though this would not fully cover painting it gloss black.

Best Regards"

Reply.....

"Hi Chris, sorry about that. I'm not happy about charging you for that either. Not sure why it was sent not polished, the warehouse guys must be packing with their eyes shut!!!!. Please keep it with my apologies, I have refunded you in full. If you would rather a replacement please let me know.

Matt"

:D CBS are OK! Like a good company does, they accept their mistakes and rectify them quickly.

Good customer service.

[CTWV50]

Bit more done....now I can see my dials. Ordered some perspex and some fittings for dash today. Might move on to the rear lights this weekend.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3841/15063211745_53df10653f.jpghttps://farm6.staticflickr.com/5586/14876636368_7e67da2197.jpg

Oh and I ordered some 3D carbon wrap!:D

[CTWV50]

This weekend I spent the time I had with the car out the garage sorting out the rear wheel geometry, then replacing all the nuts with nylock nuts. I also discovered a problem with both rear callipers. Both weren't allowing the piston to return to the fully retracted position after disengaging the handbrake. One of these callipers I had refurbed but the handbrake pin was really stiff so I replaced the calliper with a good used one I had from the 1.8 mx5 I stripped. This one was worse as there just wasn't enough adjustment or space for the new pads and discs.:confused:

So I removed this one and made some space with a metal file. :D The other one on the right side appeared to have a weak return spring. I dug out a better one from my brake spares box and that one now works ok. After a bit of research I discovered all the rear callipers I have had (four) are all chinese copies. If I experience any more issues I might just have to buy some genuine mazda ones. I hope I don't have to.

I also got the dash screwed in place, I'm just waiting for some new hazard/fog switches and some perspex to turn up and then I can wrap it and do the rubber edge trim.

Re reading the IVA manual I can't be sure my upper harness mounts will pass, as once again the manual is ambiguous and fails to specify what is considered "thick" walled tube. My 7/16 UNF upper harness mount nuts are welded inside a length of 2mm walled 25x25mm box which is fully welded onto the top of the rear backrest top rail. I may order some unf bushes and weld them to the side of a piece of 40x40x3mm SHS and make a harness bar and bolt it into place instead of the roll bar I have made.:rolleyes:

[Davidbolam]

This weekend I spent the time I had with the car out the garage sorting out the rear wheel geometry, then replacing all the nuts with nylock nuts. I also discovered a problem with both rear callipers. Both weren't allowing the piston to return to the fully retracted position after disengaging the handbrake. One of these callipers I had refurbed but the handbrake pin was really stiff so I replaced the calliper with a good used one I had from the 1.8 mx5 I stripped. This one was worse as there just wasn't enough adjustment or space for the new pads and discs.:confused:

So I removed this one and made some space with a metal file. :D The other one on the right side appeared to have a weak return spring. I dug out a better one from my brake spares box and that one now works ok. After a bit of research I discovered all the rear callipers I have had (four) are all chinese copies. If I experience any more issues I might just have to buy some genuine mazda ones. I hope I don't have to.

I also got the dash screwed in place, I'm just waiting for some new hazard/fog switches and some perspex to turn up and then I can wrap it and do the rubber edge trim.

Re reading the IVA manual I can't be sure my upper harness mounts will pass, as once again the manual is ambiguous and fails to specify what is considered "thick" walled tube. My 7/16 UNF upper harness mount nuts are welded inside a length of 2mm walled 25x25mm box which is fully welded onto the top of the rear backrest top rail. I may order some unf bushes and weld them to the side of a piece of 40x40x3mm SHS and make a harness bar and bolt it into place instead of the roll bar I have made.:rolleyes:

The handbrake on the mx5 has a bolt on the side (about 14mm) which you need to remove and then use a 4mm allen key to retract/adjust the piston when you replace the pads etc.

I bought a new set as I thought my old ones were bust but then i worked out how to adjust them

David

[CTWV50]

The handbrake on the mx5 has a bolt on the side (about 14mm) which you need to remove and then use a 4mm allen key to retract/adjust the piston when you replace the pads etc.

I bought a new set as I thought my old ones were bust but then i worked out how to adjust them

David

Thanks Dave but no this calliper just wouldn't retract the piston far enough using the adjuster behind the 14mm bolt.

[CTWV50]

Still slogging away......
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3894/14972331710_9ed71ecf82.jpghttps://farm6.staticflickr.com/5586/15156025911_013a745022.jpg
Finally started buttoning up the tunnel
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3841/14972275659_e9b5f1a1da.jpg
And I've started on the potentially unnecessary harness bar for the lovely IVA mans benefit.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/14972430938_ba8c407376.jpg

[CTWV50]

Good light today more pics of dash and buttons...
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/14984971377_86609b19d2.jpghttps://farm6.staticflickr.com/5580/14984976588_e7c9812e1e.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3921/15171560315_5233af3186.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3921/15148534036_b104c7958b.jpg

[CTWV50]

Finally done the centre (laugh) console.... https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5560/14984989428_d00464fc8f.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3889/14984915800_20c982e88a.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3897/15171241272_fd712243d7.jpg

A bit DIY looking but I couldn't figure out a better way to do it.:)

[CTWV50]

The IVA mans harness bar is finished. Lets hope he likes it!
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5566/15027814550_da74847418.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/15211442131_02abfa6bde.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3890/15214116812_3178f9c1b6.jpg

[flyerncle]

Need is the mother of invention ;)

Not DIY, MIY made it ya self .

[CTWV50]

Finally got the dash all buttoned up with access covers under the dash etc. Got the IVA mans mirrors in position, lets hope he like them.

These switches for rear fog and hazard ended up being a real pita to get working so be aware. The switches were £22 from caterhamparts but then i discovered they were only momentary switches and they needed little actuator blocks to actually do anything useful. The two spade contacts that come with it are just for the switch LED. I thought these blocks would do the latching so the hazards would stay on but no they did not. Bit of research and I discovered I'd need latching relays costing £22 each!! Sod that, these switches are getting really expensive. Any how I discovered you could get a latching version of this switch for £6.50 each but I'd need to swap over all the shiny stuff and LEDs and modify the end of the switch to be able to make it function but finally got it all working. Phew! Bloody things cost be around £35 each, unbelievable.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5554/15233204302_6ba4fb9f3b.jpghttps://farm6.staticflickr.com/5574/15210553376_7562d3842a.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3873/15233220492_00b155b329.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3916/15046913030_23ef6e3ce5.jpg

edit: wish I'd got those allen bolt straight and even. I'll have colour them black of something.

[CTWV50]

Did a brake test on some concrete, fronts appeared to lock up evenly first.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5557/15210555626_de4317a576.jpghttps://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/15047016258_24c976b664.jpg

Harness bar is on and I've routed the wires for the rear lights.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3913/15233216892_9a51812bbd.jpg

Just the back end to do really.:D

[SeriesLandy]

This company (http://www.gwr-fasteners.co.uk/gwr-colourfast-stainless-steel-socket-button-head-machine-screws-620-c.asp) sell black stainless Allen head bolts but they cost about £1 each.
They are good quality but I only used a few as they are so expensive.

[CTWV50]

This company (http://www.gwr-fasteners.co.uk/gwr-colourfast-stainless-steel-socket-button-head-machine-screws-620-c.asp) sell black stainless Allen head bolts but they cost about £1 each.
They are good quality but I only used a few as they are so expensive.

Thanks I'll keep that in mind but might just get the spray paint out. :)

Finished my rear lights, need to try and figure out if the fog light is the correct angle. Not easy to do on unlevel ground. Any tips?

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/15300769336_78050840e5.jpg

So just temporary rear cover, seat belts and seats to finish. Got a few nut covers, bolts and odds and sods still to order but I think it's getting close. Do you have to pay as soon as you apply for the IVA or does it happen later on?

In this shot I hadn't wired all the lights but tonight I finished them.

[SeriesLandy]

Thanks I'll keep that in mind but might just get the spray paint out. :)

Finished my rear lights, need to try and figure out if the fog light is the correct angle. Not easy to do on unlevel ground. Any tips?

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/15300769336_78050840e5.jpg

So just temporary rear cover, seat belts and seats to finish. Got a few nut covers, bolts and odds and sods still to order but I think it's getting close. Do you have to pay as soon as you apply for the IVA or does it happen later on?

In this shot I hadn't wired all the lights but tonight I finished them.

I sent my docs on the 1st may and paid on the 8th and got a date on the 22nd for the following month. On 6th june

[CTWV50]

I sent my docs on the 1st may and paid on the 8th and got a date on the 22nd for the following month. On 6th june

Oh thanks, did you pay by card on the phone. Form asks for card details but that doesn't seem sensible to put them on a form and send them through the post.

[CTWV50]

The IVA mans car is ready. I'm just £250 short of the cost of the test.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3936/14958532723_fe80e456d4.jpg

Can't say I'm going to be overly impressed if he finds something to fail it on that can't be fixed on the day. Just need some pictures printing before applying.:)

Uploaded 30 finish/IVA test pictures (https://www.flickr.com/photos/93882345@N04/with/14958532723/), please take a look and see if you can spot any issues. Thanks

[Davidbolam]

The IVA mans car is ready. I'm just £250 short of the cost of the test.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3936/14958532723_fe80e456d4.jpg

Can't say I'm going to be overly impressed if he finds something to fail it on that can't be fixed on the day. Just need some pictures printing before applying.:)

Uploaded 30 finish/IVA test pictures (https://www.flickr.com/photos/93882345@N04/with/14958532723/), please take a look and see if you can spot any issues. Thanks

Hi Chris that car is looking really good. The only thing that I can see is I wouldn't put the 7 logo on the front until after the test unless it has the correct radius on the edges

Can't see anything else though. Remember to take plenty of tools and trim.

David

[SeriesLandy]

I can't see anything wrong with the car, hopefully you will get a first time pass.

What is the steering boss that you've used as I need one but I don't like the collapsible ones?

[CTWV50]

Hi Chris that car is looking really good. The only thing that I can see is I wouldn't put the 7 logo on the front until after the test unless it has the correct radius on the edges

Can't see anything else though. Remember to take plenty of tools and trim.

David

Cheers David, yes I left the logo on as it's a pain to refit, if they don't like it I can just take it off as it's only zip tied on. :)

I can't see anything wrong with the car, hopefully you will get a first time pass.

What is the steering boss that you've used as I need one but I don't like the collapsible ones?

Thanks, fingers crossed. Only thing I'm still slightly concerned about is handbrake effort, but hopefully I can adjust it if need be.

Boss came from David. It is collapsable but was missing the cover so I used some drainpipe and some sticky foam to cover it up for IVA purposes. I'm going to fit a quick release boss after the IVA.

[Davidbolam]

Cheers David, yes I left the logo on as it's a pain to refit, if they don't like it I can just take it off as it's only zip tied on. :)



Thanks, fingers crossed. Only thing I'm still slightly concerned about is handbrake effort, but hopefully I can adjust it if need be.

Boss came from David. It is collapsable but was missing the cover so I used some drainpipe and some sticky foam to cover it up for IVA purposes. I'm going to fit a quick release boss after the IVA.

I adjusted the handbrake so that there was plenty of adjustment left at the handbrake end. I then tighten ended it up during the test with a screwdriver.

The iva man liked the collapsibility of the boss

David

[SeriesLandy]

Thanks, fingers crossed. Only thing I'm still slightly concerned about is handbrake effort, but hopefully I can adjust it if need be.

Boss came from David. It is collapsable but was missing the cover so I used some drainpipe and some sticky foam to cover it up for IVA purposes. I'm going to fit a quick release boss after the IVA.
Are you going for a weld on QR after IVA?

[voucht]

I can't say for IVA, but I've watched your pictures, and I can say that I think it is a very nice build, very tidy, in all the details. I like it :)

Congratulations Chris! I wish you the best of luck for IVA!

[CTWV50]

I adjusted the handbrake so that there was plenty of adjustment left at the handbrake end. I then tighten ended it up during the test with a screwdriver.

The iva man liked the collapsibility of the boss

David

Cheers David I may have a little play with it before the IVA. Thanks for the tip.

Are you going for a weld on QR after IVA?

Quick Release? Err not sure yet I haven't done too much research yet but like the idea of being able to take the steering wheel off in carparks and to aid exit and entry.

I can't say for IVA, but I've watched your pictures, and I can say that I think it is a very nice build, very tidy, in all the details. I like it :)

Congratulations Chris! I wish you the best of luck for IVA!

Thanks Sylvian very kind words. :)

[TheArf]

Good luck with the test, looking at your pictures, I noticed you might want to consider some trim around the plastic moulding for the rear light mounts, I remember reading somewhere of someone failing on the lack of radius.

its' just a thought


Arfon

[SeriesLandy]

Quick Release? Err not sure yet I haven't done too much research yet but like the idea of being able to take the steering wheel off in carparks and to aid exit and entry.


Yup, I thought the same as I haven't left my car anywhere yet for that reason.

[Davidbolam]

Good luck with the test, looking at your pictures, I noticed you might want to consider some trim around the plastic moulding for the rear light mounts, I remember reading somewhere of someone failing on the lack of radius.

its' just a thought


Arfon

In the back of the car builder solutions catalogue there is a good description of how to cut and stick the trim to these lights. Very easy to do and looks good

If you need any photos of mine give me a shout

David

[twinturbo]

I have a snap-off wheel on my sapphire that will probably go on the roadster.

TT

[CTWV50]

Good luck with the test, looking at your pictures, I noticed you might want to consider some trim around the plastic moulding for the rear light mounts, I remember reading somewhere of someone failing on the lack of radius.

its' just a thought


Arfon

Thanks Arfon yes I've done that but forgot to take a picture.

[CTWV50]

These are the photos I'm going to have printed for the IVA submission.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/93882345@N04/sets/72157648934350682/

Any suggestions? Thanks.

[CTWV50]

Finally come up with the cash for the IVA!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5605/15826775051_62314ea277.jpg

[Rosco]

Finally come up with the cash for the IVA!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5605/15826775051_62314ea277.jpg


Haha looks about right!

[voucht]

Cool that you can pay in US $ :D

[CTWV50]

Application sent 1pm 25th November 2014, :)
Money taken from account 9:31am 26th November 2014, :(

They're not messing around, are they!:eek:

[skov]

Nice one Chris.
They only mess around after they've taken your money...

[Davidbolam]

Nice one Chris.
They only mess around after they've taken your money...

I didn't get a call from the test centre. I had to call them to book my test so I would recommend giving them a call. It will save you a couple of weeks

David

[CTWV50]

I didn't get a call from the test centre. I had to call them to book my test so I would recommend giving them a call. It will save you a couple of weeks

David

Oh ok thanks David, I thought you couldn't call the test centres. I'll have to try and dig out the Chadderton test centre number.

[Davidbolam]

Oh ok thanks David, I thought you couldn't call the test centres. I'll have to try and dig out the Chadderton test centre number.

It you phone the central number they will put you through. The one thingy tester said is he thought very few people phoned to ask questions prior to the test. (Most likely as there is no direct dial for them).

[CTWV50]

Cheers David, I just got through to Chadderton but no one available to answer questions. I'll wait till the middle of next week and call again. I asked whether they would contact me to book the appointment but she said I would have to keep calling to get my appointment booked. So thanks for the tip I would of been waiting for weeks if I hadn't of known.:)

[CTWV50]

OK I'm officially out of hibernation. Didn't start the car for 2 months and been putting off the IVA x2. Just because weather was crap and I had no interest in the car. Usual kind of thing for me over the winter months. Always end up doing hundreds of miles on my mountain bike when the days get this short and cold. Weird I know but there it is.

Anyway got that out of my system now so I've ended up shortening the handbrake cable 30mm as I had no adjustment and low brake effort. T**t to refit as I 'd shortened it more than I meant to. Relocated that bodged fuse so no worries there. Oh I fixed my bouncing idle and loss of cold start fast idle. I knew it was something I'd done on refitting the engine and shortening the loom but could not figure out what so I was ignoring it. Last night I figured out what it was. I'd left the TEN - GND jumper in the diags port and the diagnostics LED because I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE USEFUL FOR DIAGNOSTICS PURPOSES, how ironic! I had not realised that this had effectively disabled the ecu for ambient idle purposes. Lots of googling and the penny finally dropped. So reset the ambient idle and for good measure as I'd probably knackered the O2 sensor with all the rich idling I swapped it out for a known good one from the 1.8 engine I have. Rock solid idle now.

Oh and I made a coolant bottle to fuse box splash guard out of a tupaware box. just incase I ever overheat and short out my fuses.

Got a car cover on order and thinking of ringing the DVLA to get my date brought forward if possible.

The End.

edit oh and thread locked all the relevant threads that need it.

[skov]

Glad to see you're still alive and well Chris!
IVA x2? Does that mean you've already had IVA x1?

[CTWV50]

Glad to see you're still alive and well Chris!
IVA x2? Does that mean you've already had IVA x1?

No I haven't been yet, had a date for early Jan which I moved to end of Jan and then I moved that one to end of Feb. Paranoid if I got it legal before spring I'd be to tempted to drive it on damp roads and crash it having never driven a lightweight rear wheel drive car before.

[CTWV50]

So while I'm waiting for the test date the car bug has bit me again so I'm in the middle of a little upgrade project "off" the car. I managed to acquire a rather cheap ashcroft LSD Torsen type differential. Made a cheeky offer on ebay which was accepted.

http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=102482

I did not really know what I'd let myself in for and I've had a rather steep learning curve and had to buy some new tools to do the job but I had a late mk1 1.8 differential in the shed so I've started stripping it down to clean, paint and replace all the seals. I will be replacing the the side differential bearings but leaving the pinion shaft bearings alone and just replacing the crush tube so I can setup the drag torque once the nose seal is replaced.

I know I could of bought a second hand mx5 Torsen diff off ebay but where's the fun in that and the diff was so cheap it was rude not to buy it.

Here'a a very useful video I found on youtube.


http://youtu.be/dAqAqODmcj4

[K4KEV]

Whoooof the vids a bit heavy tho:D

[CTWV50]

Whoooof the vids a bit heavy tho:D

Oh I know. He's not the most interesting person. zzzZZZZ!