Chris's new build of an MX5 based car

[Stot]

So while I'm waiting for the test date the car bug has bit me again so I'm in the middle of a little upgrade project "off" the car. I managed to acquire a rather cheap ashcroft LSD Torsen type differential. Made a cheeky offer on ebay which was accepted.

I did the same. Its an ATB identical to a Quaife rather than a torsen, stronger in theory. Bought a diff for it to go in and still ended up cheaper than a used 20 yr old torsen!

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

I did the same. Its an ATB identical to a Quaife rather than a torsen, stronger in theory. Bought a diff for it to go in and still ended up cheaper than a used 20 yr old torsen!

Cheers
Stot


Oh right i didnt know you'd done one too. How do you find it drives?

[Stot]

Oh right i didnt know you'd done one too. How do you find it drives?

Oh I havent fitted it yet so theres nothing on my thread. I just figured 200whp would overcome my 1.6 diff in short order so I better get all the 1.8 bits for the exchange. :D

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

I just figured 200whp would overcome my 1.6 diff in short order so I better get all the 1.8 bits for the exchange.

Cheers
Stot

I just wanted a bit more predictability and traction.

So here are the casing parts and flange all cleaned and painted ready for rebuilding.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/16324391008_4d2a0837a8_c.jpg

I cleaned off the calcification on the aluminium case by immersing it in 18 litres of Tesco "cheapo diabetes rot you teeth coke" (£4.95) and used a fish tank water heater in the hope of aiding the process along.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7332/16324688080_a48484a405_c.jpg

I could of had it bead blasted but I was interested to see if this worked. :D Took the best part of a week but didn't have to scrub at it at all.

I cleaned up the cast iron with electrolysis which as always worked brilliantly. Just a jet wash and blow dry and it was ready for paint.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8610/16324713150_72e82a4e27_c.jpg

I bought a external 7-8" micrometer off ebay and I have calibrated it with a 12" digital micrometer today. I'm following this guide for setup of the new diff side bearings.

http://www.miata.net/garage/diff_rr.html

[CTWV50]

Domestic Science for me this afternoon.

Take one diff and place in freezer. Unwrap new bearings and rewrap in tinfoil. Place bearings on top shelf of a preheated oven and heat for 1 hour at 250˚C. Remove diff from freezer and drop bearings on to each end using liberal amounts WD40.


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[CTWV50]

Try not to burn the table. Oops

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/15898006524_3ebc80ea7c_c.jpghttps://farm8.staticflickr.com/7409/16334300819_589df9613f_c.jpg

[dubzter]

nice work, good to see someone putting the grey matter to good use

[CTWV50]

nice work, good to see someone putting the grey matter to good use

Cheers, just keeping my brain entertained.

[CTWV50]

Forecast weather for my IVA day, snow and gale force winds! WTF!:mad:

[Davidbolam]

Forecast weather for my IVA day, snow and gail force winds! WTF!:mad:

You won't notice the bad weather. You will be paying too much attention to every noise squeak and rattle in case something is going to fall off.

Remember to take loads of cable ties etc and electricians tape for the test
Good luck.

[CTWV50]

You won't notice the bad weather. You will be paying too much attention to every noise squeak and rattle in case something is going to fall off.

Remember to take loads of cable ties etc and electricians tape for the test
Good luck.

I'm trailering it and I'm taking the contents of my garage with me.:cool:

[dubzter]

good luck, when is the big day?

[CTWV50]

Got one of these booked for collection on Sunday. Just as the winds and snow are due!

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8612/16551742632_2ffb831dc1_n.jpg

[CTWV50]

Weather could be difficult on the day.

[dubzter]

Monday. Got one of these booked for collection on Sunday. Just as the winds and snow are due!

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8612/16551742632_2ffb831dc1_n.jpg

Hope you are talking about the transporter and not the chrysler :D

[skov]

I hope you drilled some holes in floor, not sure they do IVA's on bathtubs :D
Best of luck mate, not that you'll need it!

[CTWV50]

I hope you drilled some holes in floor, not sure they do IVA's on bathtubs :D

Oh yes good point! :o

Best of luck mate, not that you'll need it!

Cheers. Just waiting on some new hub nuts as mine are reused messes.:rolleyes:

[flyerncle]

And they do read forums like this to see what goes on...........:eek:


One tester confirmed this in a conversation about IVA.

[CTWV50]

edited........:D

[CTWV50]

OMG I hope XCweather is wrong!:eek:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8578/15949330803_d0c16e3ef9.jpg

In other news a glued a bit of trim back on that had become detached. And I torqued all the diff ring gear bolts to 80nm with loctite.

edit: At best heavy rain and wind here and at test station, at worst heavy snow and wind. Bollocks to that, I've just phone the IVA station and got my date moved to the 17th March. :mad:

[flyerncle]

Noted :eek: .

[CTWV50]

Finally got all the bits needed to rebuild the diff. I was waiting on a new crush tube and nylock nut from the local mazda dealer, parts kid there is useless but fortunately my good friend works there and sorted out the correct parts for me. I did attempt to reuse the old crush tube by compressing it in a vice and I did lengthen it by 0.5mm which would probably been ok but as it was only £10 and available I got a replacement.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7335/16402415740_d7bb0b6a23_z.jpghttps://farm8.staticflickr.com/7363/16402213838_4585a5a223_z.jpg

So last night I set about reinstalling the pinion shaft with the new seal. You have to torque up the nylock nut until it starts to actually crush down on the crush tube, unsurprisingly. I made a diff nose holder out of some left over 50mmx3mm angle and some bolts and set to work.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/16563360336_19b2e5791b_z.jpghttps://farm8.staticflickr.com/7384/16589355875_0b821312cd_z.jpg

continued......

[CTWV50]

Because I was reusing the the old bearings I had to put plenty of effort in to crush down the new tube being careful not to go too far by doing 1/8th of an inch turns and then checking the drag torque.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8674/16588697192_3b358e499c_z.jpg

10 inch lbs was enough for me on used bearings, the guy in this thread did 12 in/lbs on new bearings but 10-15 in/lbs is within a general range apparently.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/index.php/t-171048.html

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8669/16402328120_81a6c5cf32_z.jpg

Job done!

Next the actual LSD install. :D

[Stot]

Was there a reason you pulled the pinion out? If you leave it in and just swap the ring gear onto the new diff you don't need to worry about shimming it. You may need to re-shim it now you have that new crush tube in there which will be a right pain getting it all together measuring everything, and if new shims are needed stripping it all back again, new shim, rinse repeat. :eek:

Cheers
Stot.

[CTWV50]

Was there a reason you pulled the pinion out? If you leave it in and just swap the ring gear onto the new diff you don't need to worry about shimming it. You may need to re-shim it now you have that new crush tube in there which will be a right pain getting it all together measuring everything, and if new shims are needed stripping it all back again, new shim, rinse repeat. :eek:

Cheers
Stot.

I've actually just finished putting it all back together, I'll post pictures later. I wanted to replace the pinion seal and do a complete strip down and rebuild. There's is no need to shim, the mx5 diff uses a crush tube instead of shims. Fortunately the pinion bearings were fine so I was just able to rebuild without replacing them. I only replaced the diff side bearings because I thought it would be too much effort to get the old ones off.

Pictures later.:)

[CTWV50]

The hardest part was getting this dial gauge in just the right place. I ended up taking the magnetic base off and bolting through one of the diff flange bolt holes.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7398/15973110863_58a2c8a883_z.jpg

Once I had set the backlash and checked it at 12,3,6,9 o'clock I set the preload which was a little more difficult as very small turns of the bearing adjusters made a big difference. I then rechecked and repeated process until I was happy and then fixed to ring locks in place. I did a paint test on the teeth and was happy with the patterning. I used new 12.9 strength allen bolts to reattach the case with spring washers.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7305/15970696034_a24e608373_z.jpg

I've also had made these stainless steel crush tubes for when it gets bolted into the car. The last diff fitted was just bodged in with whatever I had lying around.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8603/16405878840_67354b5e97_z.jpg

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8566/15970734394_2f8f600047_z.jpg

[CTWV50]

Having some inspirational thoughts about my possible failures and potential solutions.....

1. Something to do with the handbrake or rear brakes that I can't sort on the day.

Can't fix this as it is not broken. So put this down to paranoia.

2. I have protected well but not grommeted the wiring coming through the bulk head.

Going to cut the scuttle slightly larger around this wire with a dremel and glue fit rubber trim!:D


3. Front indicators are too far from the widest part of the car.

If this is an issue I will remove the indicators and fit stalk indicators the the side of the indicator pods! :D


4. They don't like the radius edges of the modified caterham hazard and fog switches when in use.

I measured the hole and the projections and it only needs to be blunt not radiused which they are.:D


5. They don't like the stick on side repeaters on they aren't bright enough or too low down.

I've ordered some others that should be IVA OK which I will fit on the day if need be.:D

[CTWV50]

2. I have protected well but not grommeted the wiring coming through the bulk head.

Going to cut the scuttle slightly larger around this wire with a dremel and glue fit rubber trim!:D


DoNe!!!

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8574/16604608055_f97472a0c2_z.jpghttps://farm9.staticflickr.com/8589/15984843433_8af30c4be4_z.jpg

[CTWV50]

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8641/16438898878_71aeca6f11_z.jpg

Fixed...:(

[CTWV50]

Apparently you need a side light tell tale. IVA manual mentions a side marker lamp tell tale for long vehicles but I just found this thread and I'm not risking it. I'll reinstate the binnacle illumination on headlight usage later.

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/29/viewthread.php?tid=146174

[Stot]

You need a tell tale or the instruments to light up with side light, most do. IVA Manual refers to them as Front and Rear Position Lamps in section 22.

The tell tale must operate with the operation of the position lamp switch, it may be the illumination of the instruments or a separate lamp of any colour (providing it is not likely to confuse the driver) clearly identified in either a pictogram (see section 33) or in a word format.

Cheers
Stot

[SeriesLandy]

I did this with my front indicators, mainly to cover the visibility issues.
I didn't have any problems with them being too far inboard.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3795/11105702056_b3d2d14662_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/hVnCiE)Iva indicator extension (https://flic.kr/p/hVnCiE) by Series1Landy (https://www.flickr.com/people/65963068@N05/), on Flickr

[CTWV50]

You need a tell tale or the instruments to light up with side light, most do. IVA Manual refers to them as Front and Rear Position Lamps in section 22.



Cheers
Stot

Yes it's a bit ambiguous, as they aren't position lamps and they refer to a position lamp switch. But anyway I have now reinstated the binnacle illumination. I had switched the binnacle to illuminate on ignition. I also properly sorted out all the wiring for the shift light install post IVA and made a better job of the wiring protection/neatness while I was in there.

I did this with my front indicators, mainly to cover the visibility issues.
I didn't have any problems with them being too far inboard.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3795/11105702056_b3d2d14662_s.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/hVnCiE)Iva indicator extension (https://flic.kr/p/hVnCiE) by Series1Landy (https://www.flickr.com/people/65963068@N05/), on Flickr

I see, my only concern now is that they are only 10w not 20w, but if people are using tiny led stork front indicators I think they will be fine.

[CTWV50]

Bollocks, just realised why these e11 marked indicators are so dim. Those indicators are off my fathers old mobilty scooter. It runs two 12v batteries in series, the bulbs in them are 24v 10w. Doh.:rolleyes:

Just ordered some 12v 20w halogen replacements which will fit. OMG I'm going to be admitting myself to Ashworth hospital (5 miles away) for mental health care by the time this IVA date comes round.:o

[CTWV50]

Oh here we go! Here's another fail! Fog light warning/indicator should be amber not blue. Two options, remove the bulb and rely on the binnacle but i think they like the indicator to be as close to the switch as possible, or, fit an amber bulb! Guess what I just ordered!

Ten little ducks went swimming one day over the hill and far away , mummy duck said quack quack quack quack, but only nine little ducks came back.......

Oh my centre caps have a sharp edge too.....


https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8670/16455846310_f931f728c4.jpg

[Stot]

remove the bulb and rely on the binnacle but i think they like the indicator to be as close to the switch as possible.

My fog switch is behind the steering wheel with no bulb in it ( just see it under the wheel spoke in the pic) and tell tale is centre dashboard. No problem.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Zu5fQHp7rkI/U5DJTSjkJVI/AAAAAAAAKCw/oSq9SrJ-HEU/w600/IVABooked8.JPG

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

Bulb arrived today so it's fitted anyway.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8648/16655482465_48099d13fb.jpg

Got paranoid about my crossed over handbrake cables. I did this to reduce the curvature but tonight I thought they might not like them touching each other. So I got creative with 4x 10mm pipe clips.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8601/16655483055_6bf1cc7fec.jpghttps://farm9.staticflickr.com/8681/16469319459_343d00ed4b.jpghttps://farm9.staticflickr.com/8675/16469320299_88f1504605.jpg

Dash is all back in now with black stainless round headed allen bolts.

[CTWV50]

Redone the fuel tank vent as I had no proof that the hoses I had used where fuel compliant. They were from the donor vehicle but I've figured out another way to make the unusual arrangement work. Originally I was going to vent to the rear of the fuel tank but realised once the bodywork was fitted i had no space to do so.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3948/15612168791_1bc4530e6b.jpg

Now it uses standard 6mm I.D. fuel hose.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8624/16697950695_9c254ff599.jpghttps://farm9.staticflickr.com/8668/16510584000_4c45d2a6b7.jpg

Also I adjusted the height of the side repeaters so they are above the 350mm possible minimum height.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8589/16075637804_3070a3a7fc.jpg

I just rotated the mud guards forwards, they still meet the wheel coverage requirements.

New brighter front indicator bulbs are fitted, not much left to do, I think?!?

[CTWV50]

I made a mess of my original brake fluid warning sticker so I ordered another from DAX, smoothed off the reservoir lid and made a much neater job of it.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8589/16722843305_ca6edafd4b.jpghttps://farm9.staticflickr.com/8682/16102892013_8e75a954b1.jpg

[CTWV50]

PASS!!!!! Just about, had to use my words alot!

[Stot]

Well done Chris, great timing for Spring.

Cheers
Stot

[skov]

Woooooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!

Nice one Chris!!! :D:D:D

[dubzter]

PASS!!!!! Just about, had to use my words alot!

Brilliant, well done.

[K4KEV]

Thats great news Chris ....well done bud now get your skates on and get through the paperwork side of things and you will be sorted for summer, then the smiles and grins only get bigger when you go out in it

[vmax1974]

Well done must be a great feeling

[metal matt]

Well done bet you cant wait to give it a good thrashing now

[Ianr]

That's incredible. well done!!!!! - and thank you for all your posts, I've learnt so much from them I hope to do the same

[voucht]

Well done Chris, congratulations! :)

[Davidbolam]

Well done Chris. Good luck with the paperwork! Let me know if you need any help with how you fill it out.

You need to send it off now so that it will be back ASAP and you can then realise how much fun they are

David

[CTWV50]

Thanks everyone. I was amazed, after the possible fails that were discussed, that I passed. I will write a full report for everyone as soon as I can as it was a very interesting day! Just got back after dropping off the transporter (420 M62 miles in 24 hours with 3 hrs sleep) Having a celebration glass and a bite to eat atm. Felt great getting the pass though, been on high ever since. :D

[garyt]

Well done good lick with the paperwork just in time for the better eeather

[SeriesLandy]

Congrats with the pass. Have fun with the dvla and then driving it.

[CTWV50]

Here we go then. On Monday the 16th I went to work in the morning and then discovered I had to leave early as a delivery of young lylandii arrived that needed planting asap. Not ideal having to do gardening just before my test day but I left work at 2pm and got that done and out the way. Next I needed to pick up my wife from work and then the kids from school. We are a one car family so this had to be done before I went off to Bradford to pick up the car transporter. I left at about 3:30pm with my eldest son (11) for company.

The drive was ok it was 80 miles, but most of it was M62. It’s the highest motorway in England so you get a lot of traffic speed variation due to the climbs and descent. I bloody hate it and have driven it lots as I used to go to Leeds Uni and travelled it back and forth a lot by car between there and Liverpool way. Bradford traffic was just gridlock between the M606 and the transporter location, but TomTom got us there at around 5:30pm.


Pali was the owner of the transporter and we quickly did the paperwork and loaded up my car onto the back of it. He showed me the ropes, literally, told me a few do’s and don’ts and we were off back to the motorway. Hire cost was £105 with a £250 excess on the insurance, I also left a deposit of £100 just incase the fuel was low on return.

Return journey was uneventful apart from my son introducing me to KFC at the services. We chatted most the way home in the slow lane doing about 50mph. Everytime we went over a bump my son couldn’t help but keep checking the car was still there. I felt like I was being really badly tailgated by own car. The handbrake on this thing had about 2ft of travel and the gear stick, I noticed, was the perfect replica of horses erect penis!


So home we arrived about 8:00pm I think. Eventually I got it reversed in outside the house on our unusually wide driveway. Unloading went smoothly with an audience of my family out the kitchen window. With the family car now out the way it was time to empty the garage! I had gone through everything I might need or even ,wouldn’t ever possibly need but you never know, and had organised it into boxes. I even took the CO2 fire extinguisher, the original steering wheel from the MX5, my soldering iron, a bottle of butane, literally every tool I had used in building the car apart from the welder. Which I probably would of took too, if I could of. So all of this fitted on the passenger seats and floor and I could still about change gear and use the handbrake.

Now it was time to load up my pride and joy. I asked the missus to help me get it lined up but it was getting close to her bedtime (8:30pm). Loading went smoothly the sump just cleared and it was on. Apply handbrake, drop clutch, put it in first, engine off. Make sure the handbrake is on good and tight. SNAP! WTF I just snapped my handbrake cable. M*****************R!!!!!! To much adrenaline pumping through my system and I’d managed to break the cable that goes from the handbrake to the cables for each of the rear wheels. Now I had a long history with this handbrake setup, I was never happy with it. I’d positioned the handbrake so that I wouldn’t need to shorten any cables, or I thought I had. The plate that positions the two rear caliper cables could of done with being 20mm further back because although the handbrake worked I had no adjustment left at the handbrake end I had to just wind the caliper pistons in very close the the discs. Not ideal! i had a lot of travel in the lever itself and I wasn’t happy with it or the potential for drag in the off position. So I read up and decided to shorten the cable I did this at the HB (handbrake) end as the other end required a lot more work. This was not a good idea I’d cut the cable slotted the thingy and welded the cable into the slot. This is were it had failed due to fatigue, there’s a reason they don’t come from the factory welded, I know that now! So I’m up s***t creek, but I might just have a paddle! Me being me I ordered a brand new HB cable and left it in the bag for resale if I didn’t need it. Even though I was probably, in my mind, now going to now fail on the HB, I needed to get the car there for the test and needed the HB to load it on the transporter! So 9:30pm at night I’m outside in the dark, thank good I sorted out the outside lights, fitting a new cable and adjusting the brakes. 10:30pm I’m reloading on my own this time.

All strapped down and all the kit back in the cab it was time to put the rain cover on, as of course I wasn’t going to get away with a rain free 24hrs. Took ages but by 11:30pm I was all locked up and the family car was guarding the driveway entrance and I was in the house making sandwiches and having a beer to switch off my racing mind. I went to bed at 1:30pm but was going to have to be up early.

To Be Continued ………………….. (just like Top Gear Haha)

[flyerncle]

With rear discs and handbrake its sometimes better to have a little more than usual travel as the levers in the calipers need to move a fair amount to give good clamping force.;)

[CTWV50]

;) With rear discs and handbrake its sometimes better to have a little more than usual travel as the levers in the calipers need to move a fair amount to give good clamping force.;)

That would of been a good excuse! :)

Just out of interest I assume there was is no DVLA INSPECTION and I can start making some small changes! ;)

[CTWV50]

WAR AND PEACE PART 2

My Alarm was set for 5am, I decided to change the default sound to something more gentle on my phone, and then in no time I was fast asleep, OK I had three beers. 5am rolls around and the alarm scares the s**t out of me and the wife as we both had no idea what it was. Doh. Up at 5:15am, large bowl of Muesli, shower and a cup of tea and I’m out the door by 6:15am and on my way, waving goodbye to my the entire family. Ahhhhh.

So you’d think you’d be able to travel 50 miles on a motorway at 6:30am in relative peace and tranquility and get there within the estimated time of 56 minutes wouldn’t you. Wrong the M62 was absolutely rammed. I couldn’t believe it, I was shouting at all these weirdos going to work at this ridiculous hour. I’m not a morning person can you tell? Anyway I got there with 5 minutes to spare, parked up and went into reception. I then remembered I’d left the booking number in the truck but as I was out there a yellow coated inspector asked me if I was the 8am and told me to unload and drive round the back.

Unloading went smoothly. Nothing to report here and I was round the back parked up with the engine running. I was asked by a younger inspector to leave it running and remove the bonnet. He was nice, seemed interested in the car and ask if it was all my own work. I proudly said “yes, apart from the bodywork and wishbones.” they seemed impressed and then he recognised it as a haynes roadster so they are obviously aware of the marque.

At this point my inspector for the day came out the office, he had a look around asked for the V5 for the donor of the engine. I thought this was odd but explained I had a letter to prove engine age. He seemed happy with this and then asked for my paperwork. I wasn’t sure what he meant and he asked if I’d checked in at reception. I explained I was going to but then someone told me to unload and get it round the back before I could. Mmmm he didn’t seem to happy and said “Were not getting of to a good start are we?” I wasn’t sure if he was annoyed or just jesting, it was too early for me. So he went of to the office and got the necessaries.

Next I was asked to get in the car and hold it at between 2-3k, he was starting the emissions test I gathered. Insp. “Is it warm he asked”, Me “yeah it should be” Insp. “MMM it’s at 0.8 needs to be down at 0.2” At this point I was running through possible issues as the car had always stunk of fumes at home and then I noticed it said BET on the screen, I was sure that wasn’t the right test for this engine but it was early, I hadn’t had much sleep so I said nothing. He then asked me to rev it more and get it really warm. I did this and we tried again. Same. At this point I asked if the was a CAT test or a NON-CAT test. He said “CAT” I said “Errr it doesn’t have CAT, it will fail a CAT test without a CAT” I then went on to explain the letter was there to prove the engine was made prior to August 1995 so it could be tested using the NON-CAT test. He agreed but said the machine kept coming back with the CAT test when he entered the information. I was thinking “WTF” but good enough he said we’d have a look at it later and if it still does it we will ignore it, “Nice one!” I thought.

Up next was a weigh in on some new scales they’d recently purchased. I think they had arrived that day and they were keen to test them out. Not sure what figures they had as I was too busy jumping in and out of the car and remaining still etc.

On to the lift, this was were they did the light tests etc standard stuff but he seemed to have a special order in which to find any earth of other faults with the wiring. He asked for sidelights then asked for the rear fog. I duly obliged he then said “ have you got your fog on, are we having problems?” I said “no, it is on. Do you want me to turn the dip beam on?” Maybe it was a bit early for him too.” or we had a little communication breakdown. For those that don’t know reading this. If your fog works with your side lights, that’s a fail. It should only work with dip and main beam.

Next were going up in the world and I’m asked to do a few things. Then I’m asked to pump the brakes and yank on the handbrake repeatedly. I stop after 5 but he asks me to continue. Thank god that cable snapped at home. Although I would of had the replacement with me if it had. :-) At this point he starts to have look under the front of the car and I’m asked for steering lock each way. He then asks about the steering uj bolts and if the UJ itself is a threaded type or not. I couldn’t remember and he informed me that the nylock nut used was no where near fully threaded up. And he was absolutely right I’d stuck a bolt in and thrown a nylock on but the nylon was not on any threads. He said If I had a longer bolt I could fix that later. ok cool. At this point I’m thinking we could be good here.

Next thing is he pops his head out and announces that my column is far to straight and will be like a spear in an accident. Uh oh, WTF I’m in trouble here. I say “really? I have two u-joints and have retained all the collapsible features on the mx5 column. He said it doesn’t matter in a front end collision it will come up right through you. Bollocks!!!

Back down on the ground and we’re checking the headlight aim. They’re both a bit low so he lets me quickly adjust them and on we go to the traditional weighing roller thingies. They compared them to the other scales and there 1-2kg out.

Next the rear cover came off and he was checking out the tank breather which I had actually redone a 4th time in 6mm copper tube. The young inspector asked if I’d made the tank myself to which I proudly admitted to, I hastened to add that it was all metal, there was no sealer or bog in there. My inspector said “Yep that’s spot on!” He then informed me that during the brake/indicator test on the rear clusters that there was bleed from the indicators into the brake section slightly. I asked what would cause that and he said usually a bad earth design or the separator was absent. I explained that there was 3 separate earths at the rear and the clusters were from caterham. He didn’t say anything and we moved on to the brake test.

I’m pretty dejected by this point the last thing I thought I’d be had on was the column extension. I was running through how I could get round this and redesign it but I had no chance of fixing this without major dismantling and redesigning. And he had a point it was kind of looking like it might kill me. Hmmmm!

I then overheard him speak to another inspector, he was sat in the car looking around. “It’s simple but effective isn’t it, purposeful.” I think what he was saying that there was almost nothing to test interior wise. It was so basic in there that there was no need to get out the inspectors “big balls”!

Brake test wasn’t looking good either, he was making negative noises about the power of the brakes, on went the foot pressure thing and he said “That servo is not working!”, OMG! He went through the rest of the test and I was trying to get some answers about the servo issue. We had a chat, he said if a car has a servo it must work just like the horn, and then I came up with the idea that it could be the vacuum hose. It has a little oneway valve inside and I remember all those years ago when I modified it and refitted it I couldn’t or didn’t figure out which way round it should go so I just guessed. It was something I think that bothered me at the time but it must of been lost from my mind over time. In fact I distinctly remember looking over my shoulder at the car and eyeing the servo hose but I couldn’t put my finger on why it was bothering me, weird, E.S.P. ? Anyway I asked if I could check it and fix it to redo the test, but he said it might pass I’ll have to enter the results into the spread sheet. I don’t think he seemed keen on redoing the test, not sure.

Anyway it was morning break time I had 15 minutes to remove all the suspension nut covers and check that hose. Well blow me on very close inspection of the vacuum hose I found a very faint yellow arrow with the letters ENG on the end of the arrow and it was pointing in the wrong direction! Haha a victory! I then got onto that UJ nut but didn’t have time to sort it before he was back. I told him I had sorted the servo and he seemed happy with that. He then mentions another not fully home nylock nut on the front suspension, the lower ball joint one that comes up through the bottom of the wishbone. I agreed but also let him know that bolt went through threads in the joint itself and that they had loctite on them. The nut was just so I could fit a cover! He was happy, then mentioned a couple of others that were close. At this point I asked if I could speak to him about help and advise on my column extension issue and how to fix it. I offered to remove the pedal cover so we could see the rest of the column and UJ. I ran through the all the safety features of the upper column and explained that I had put serious thought into making it safe. He asked me to turn the steering back and forth while he looked at the UJs. I mentioned that the angle of deviation from the centre line should be 10˚ according to the manual “shouldn’t it” I said. I was trying to say in as un-confrontational way that I believed the angle was 10˚, if pushed I might of asked him to measure the angle, so I new what I needed to do to get it to pass! At this point he looked like he was possibly reconsidering his previous judgement but he gave nothing away and disappeared off into the office. When he came back he jumped in to take it for a blast and to check the mirrors and said he’d see me around the back for a noise test. I told him to enjoy himself, but not too much. He laughed!

At this point I’m completely in the dark about a pass or a fail.

[CTWV50]

WAR AND PEACE PART 3
He arrives at the rear and tells me “You’re going to have some fun in it but you'll need to wear goggles due to stones flying up”. I said I’d be wearing a bike helmet and lied that maybe I’d fit mud flaps on the front. He sets up the noise test and it is a doddle 4600rpm 92db! “Easy” I said! I told him I had made an exhaust before that one and that it was a complete abomination that made me laugh every time I looked at it but it sounded great. He smiled and then he was gone again.

I still haven’t fixed that UJ bolt, he comes back and tells me I can load up, “oh right I was just fixing that UJ bolt” I say. I’m shocked that it is done and over it was only 10:30am, so I’m emptying the the truck cab trying to find a good solution and then it hits me. As my inspector seemed to have such a hard-on for locktite I’d just use a thinner nut with some blue stuff. Job done!!

I’m all done when the inspector returns, he has a piece of coloured paper rolled up in his hands he asking if I used a spring washer on the bolt and I say “no loctite”, bollocks doesn’t he like loctite anymore??

"Well" he says “I’m pleased to say you’ve passed!” “Ahh yes, You Beauty! Thank you very much” I say! “Although you would be better to fit another joint in the column it should be fine and will pass over your shoulder in the event of an accident.” he advised me. “You’ve obviously put in a lot of effort and it shows so, well done, not many get a first time pass you know.”

Don’t I bloody know it.

The Inspectors there on the day were friendly pleasant with an air of authority but they weren’t lording it about like you might imagine. They were fair but stringent on the requirements and I now have much better brakes, and a safe steering column and will feel much better about hooning it about on the road.

Thanks Gary (VOSA Inspector)

I hope these posts have been informative for anyone else heading for an IVA. This is also a very good read. http://www.autobionics.co.uk/IVA.html

[K4KEV]

Now thats what I call Jammy.....great write up Chris, like a bluddy roller coaster ride.

[CTWV50]

Jammy is right at one point I felt like I was facing Gandolf the Grey......

CLICK ME (https://youtu.be/32kN5r-YZFY?t=28s)

[flyerncle]

Nice one !

[dubzter]

great write up but puts the fear of death in me. It's going to be quite a while before I have to face the IVA but it's good to hear others experiences.

[Ianr]

Hopefully this time next year Gary the Insp will have moved to my part of the country. A very nerve wracking experience I'm sure. A first time pass justifies all the hard work and effort you have put into the car.
Well done!
Ian

[CTWV50]

great write up but puts the fear of death in me. It's going to be quite a while before I have to face the IVA but it's good to hear others experiences.

Hopefully this time next year Gary the Insp will have moved to my part of the country. A very nerve wracking experience I'm sure. A first time pass justifies all the hard work and effort you have put into the car.
Well done!
Ian

Fore warned is fore armed! I had it on good advise that he was one of the keenest inspectors at Chadderton. So I doubt you will have as tough a time. To fear the test is good it will help you to get through my being more critical of what you build. I was dreading it, mainly because I don't deal with criticism well. :D I blame my father and teachers for that. :rolleyes: The word conscientious was used every year on my school report but attainment scores were always lower than my effort scores. ;)

[CTWV50]

Oh I'm insured now. £145 from Blackford Bloor & Co http://www.kitcar-insurance.co.uk. :)

[Numplumb]

Well done Chris just read you book :D ,did you have any comments about your side repeaters?
Did you have to show any photo's ?.
What was mentioned about your pedal area, you used the MX5 pedals like I have

Regards Mick.

[CTWV50]

Well done Chris just read you book :D ,did you have any comments about your side repeaters?
Did you have to show any photo's ?.
What was mentioned about your pedal area, you used the MX5 pedals like I have

Regards Mick.

Thanks, nothing was said about the side repeaters, he checked for grommets but I'D USED SILICONE (oops) sealant so it was fine. No pictures were asked for but I did remove the pedal cover, not that I was asked so, but so I could persuade (demonstate to) him on my steering rack angle. Yep nothing was said about the pedals at all they were just concerned with steering angle and that the servo didn't work.

I'll be selling those side repeaters soon with the resistor blocks if your interested.

[Ianr]

Hi Chris - If Numplumb , Mick, does not want the repeaters can I have 2nd dibs please as they are what I fancy for my car. Sorry to but in.
Ian

[Numplumb]

Thanks for the offer Chris but I have already done mine Ianr wants them, what do you mean by grommets?
I have built mine into the wing and fibre glassed them in being Led's they are sealed so in theory they last forever:D I didn't like them on the surface so cutting them in from behind allowed me to bring as much as I wanted through and although it was hard cutting the exact size hole in a finished surface they turned out okay.

Regards Mick.

[CTWV50]

Hi Chris - If Numplumb , Mick, does not want the repeaters can I have 2nd dibs please as they are what I fancy for my car. Sorry to but in.
Ian

Thanks for the offer Chris but I have already done mine Ianr wants them, what do you mean by grommets?
I have built mine into the wing and fibre glassed them in being Led's they are sealed so in theory they last forever:D I didn't like them on the surface so cutting them in from behind allowed me to bring as much as I wanted through and although it was hard cutting the exact size hole in a finished surface they turned out okay.

Regards Mick.

OK £10 plus postage ok Ian?

So my application is sent. Thanks stot for your excellent guide. I'll add a few other bits to it when I get chance.

Sent it all first class recorded. Just have to sit and wait, well not sit, but wait. I have a lot to do on the car now, as there are a few more touches to the dash and the appearance I want to make. No pictures now till it's finished. :D

[CTWV50]

I'm still waiting for the DVLA, only been a week but I'm keeping busy with stuff I wanted to do but wasn't a priority. I'm putting together some stuff to make a small boot and rear arch stone guards. Meanwhile I have been installing an early oil sender and gauge from a JDM binnacle, measures in kg/cm2 rather than psi, kg/cm2 coverts nicely to bar.

Later cars come with a dummy gauge hooked up to a switch and no warning!:eek: So I've also added an adjustable pressure switch which lights up a big LED light on the dash and sounds a 90db reversing buzzer. Lol! I've also added an overheating LED which is triggered by the rad fan coming on but no alarm, as if I'm stationary it would be very annoying.

My shift light is in also and sits in the flat of the aero screen so it is easily viewable and I've started installing illuminating dash switches for the horn, indicators, brake test, side, dip, main, etc, which match my hazard and fog switches. Once my dash is finished I'll be getting a weld on QR steering boss.

So I have plenty to be getting on with over the long weekend.

Still enjoying the build! :D

[CTWV50]

Just Rang the DVLA,
posted on the Mon 23th March 2015
delivered on Tue 24th March 2015 (make sure you send your app recorded!!)
Got to correct department Wed 25th
Thur 26th (day 1)
Fri 27th (day 2)
Mon 30th (day 3)
Tue 31st (day 4)
Wed 1st (day 5)
Thur 2nd (day 6) So today they've had it 6 working days and tomorrow is good Friday:rolleyes: So.....
Tues 7th next week will be the 7th working day

They best have it done by Fri Next week which is the 10th working day!:( 10 days is the maximum time it should take! "Up to 10 days." they keep saying.

edit: just realised it was my building 4th birthday 2 days ago. My first post was 31th March 2011. I thought it took me longer to build it.

[Davidbolam]

Just Rang the DVLA,
posted on the Mon 23th March 2015
delivered on Tue 24th March 2015 (make sure you send your app recorded!!)
Got to correct department Wed 25th
Thur 26th (day 1)
Fri 27th (day 2)
Mon 30th (day 3)
Tue 31st (day 4)
Wed 1st (day 5)
Thur 2nd (day 6) So today they've had it 6 working days and tomorrow is good Friday:rolleyes: So.....
Tues 7th next week will be the 7th working day

They best have it done by Fri Next week which is the 10th working day!:( 10 days is the maximum time it should take! "Up to 10 days." they keep saying.

edit: just realised it was my building 4th birthday 2 days ago. My first post was 31th March 2011. I thought it took me longer to build it.

I sent my paperwork special delivery and Royal Mail signed for it in Swansea not the dvla.

It's worth searching for the direct line that was posted on the forum as you get through to the person direct who does the registrations

David

[CTWV50]

I sent my paperwork special delivery and Royal Mail signed for it in Swansea not the dvla.

It's worth searching for the direct line that was posted on the forum as you get through to the person direct who does the registrations

David

Yeah they have it and I have the direct number but I think I'll ring them Wed. See if I can make sure it gets done within the 10 days so I can get out in it next weekend.

[davedew]

I chased mine every 2-3 days. Think they were fed up hearing from me :D
Took them 3 weeks from when they received it to me getting the paperwork to get the plates made.

The bank holidays will just slow them up unfortunately.

[CTWV50]

I chased mine every 2-3 days. Think they were fed up hearing from me :D
Took them 3 weeks from when they received it to me getting the paperwork to get the plates made.

The bank holidays will just slow them up unfortunately.

OK thanks for the info. I'll ring them Tuesday.

[CTWV50]

So I've been wiring again and I have managed to get everything that I needed on the column working on the new dash buttons. Took some doing mind and I popped a fair few fuses in the process.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7585/16401931444_2ce0d05b49_o.jpg

Here is a video to demonstrate their operation/function.

https://youtu.be/5q4hkk56BGA

I do have an issue with the fog staying on when the side light switch is off as I demonstrate but I just need to introduce a relay. As for all the current operations of the various buttons I haven't used any relays. The apem switch blocks i used are rated for 6 amps at 12v which was more than enough.

I have also made a few other changes too.;)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7614/16401935184_1a6b016a2d_o.jpg

[CTWV50]

Spoke to Emma in kits and rebuilds today at 4pm, there was a query about the letter regarding the engine manufacture date. I sent it not really thinking as there was no need to prove the engine age to delve only to vosa. Anyway it had confused them and I told the to disregard it which they seemed happy to do. She said to call back tomorrow around the same time and gave me her desk number. Might be getting somewhere here me thinks! :D

Finished my stone guards. They look pretty good but the ABS plastic I used was too thick so I'll have to change them at some point unless the hot summer sun helps them mould better to the arches. But apart from the black nose badge white stripes, decals and a rear vinyl cover it's finished.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7684/16882787770_8549221cef_o.jpg

[CTWV50]

Amber warning light for overheating.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7596/17070421735_2af0e3b5ba_o.jpg

Drivers side stone guard.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7678/17068965012_01d89e1e00_o.jpg

[CTWV50]

Other side.....

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7726/16883509448_f7ff934360_o.jpg

:D

[Davidbolam]

That is looking very nice. I'm looking forward to seeing the white stripes on the bonnet.

When you add the stripes to the nose cone you need to make them part slightly at the front as the shape of the nose come makes them look like they are getting closer together

David

[CTWV50]

That is looking very nice. I'm looking forward to seeing the white stripes on the bonnet.

When you add the stripes to the nose cone you need to make them part slightly at the front as the shape of the nose come makes them look like they are getting closer together

David

Thanks David, and thanks for the tip, hopefully the stripes will look as good as yours. I've been checking the tax status on the dlva site regularly and it's always reported it as SORN and given me the last MOT date for the car.

https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-tax

Just now it returned this......

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8766/16889344028_f5e0f8a3a8_o.jpg

:D :D :D

[Davidbolam]

Sounds like you will be in the road in next to no time!

Have you done your coolant re route?

What we were talking about before seems to have worked for my car. I had it out twice on Monday for fairly long "progressive" trips.

David

[CTWV50]

ok rant time! WHAT THE **** IS "N.O.V.A"? I HAVE TO CONTACT CUSTOMS AND EXCISE TO GET A LETTER TO SAY I HAVEN'T IMPORTED THE VEHICLE! WTF!! WHY? :mad: :mad: :mad:

FINALLY GOT PAST THE IRRITATING COMPUTERISED VOICE RECOGNITION SYRI TYPE B****H AND AM NOW ON HOLD!!!!!!:mad:

Breath, Chris, BREATH, deep breaths in, out, in, out, in, out!

N.O.V.A Notification Of Vehicle Arrivals

Apparently this is standard procedure, what? I've never heard anyone mention this before. They have the registration numbers and chassis number of both donor vehicles why do I need to do this?

[SeriesLandy]

It looks like that they have got it wrong. I searched locost builders and it seems someone on here had the same problem and I've heard it before.
I never seemed to have a problem, I must of been really lucky.

[CTWV50]

Right spoke to customs, Their words "It's complete madness, we can only send you a form to complete for notification of vehicle arrival which your going to struggle to fill in as the vehicle hasn't."

Kit and rebuilds say "We've been told by our line manager that we 100% have to have proof the vehicle hasn't been imported...... it's a procedure that has always been there but never enforced but now we've been told we have to have this!"

I'm really annoyed, can you tell!

[CTWV50]

First line of the NOVA Form

"Use this form if you are bringing a land vehicle into the UK for permanent use. You will need to do this before you can register and licence your land vehicle with the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Authority (DVLA) or Driver and Vehicle Agency (DVA) in Northern Ireland. "

:confused:

[K4KEV]

I got the same but I spoke to a very nice lady at dvla who "dealt with kit cars" and got it sorted but if they are now following to the letter what do you have to do to prove it is not an import.....surely the vosa iva test does that, what did they say Chris re getting proof?

[CTWV50]

I can't find any info on this using google regarding "kits and rebuilds" and NOVA forms. Why Me! :mad:

I'm off to join my 2 kids for an absolute paddy tantrum and then to sulk and suck my thumb!:(

[CTWV50]

I got the same but I spoke to a very nice lady at dvla who "dealt with kit cars" and got it sorted but if they are now following to the letter what do you have to do to prove it is not an import.....surely the vosa iva test does that, what did they say Chris re getting proof?

They said I had to have a letter from NOVA stating that they didn't need anything from them regarding the registration of the vehicle! Nonsense!

Customs (NOVA) said we can't provide that we can only send you the form to fill in that is for use when you are importing a vehicle which you will struggle to fill. It's absolutely ridiculous.

Some overpaid selfimportant F***WIT at the DVLA has got it badly wrong as this makes no sense what-so-ever. What percentage of vehicle used on the road are kits and rebuilds. I bet this is down to a new bloody EU regulation!!

Other stupid EU rules

http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2011/11/25/top-5-crazy-eu-demands_n_1112685.html

[K4KEV]

here is my thread with the same NOVA issue....the ladys name who need to speak/correspond with is Donna Kennet
http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13201

[CTWV50]

"Dear Sir or Madam,

I am making an application to the DVLA regarding the registration of a kit car type vehicle I have built and they have sent me the attached letter asking me to contact your department. I spoke to your advise line and was advised that this had happened before and that it didn’t make much sense as I can only really contact your department by filling in a NOVA application which isn’t applicable to the vehicle I am registering. Even though DVLA Kits and Rebuilds Department agree that this process doesn’t make much sense and it is clear to them that the car hasn’t been imported, they have said that I need to fill in the form as best I can, which is impossible, and have your government department send me a letter in response to this letter and unfilled application stating the vehicle chassis number doesn’t appear on your database (and why would it, they gave me the chassis number and it’s a new one at that) and indeed hasn’t been imported and that filling in the form or making an application for the import of the vehicle is not applicable and unnecessary even though this fact is quite clear to them anyway. Go figure. So could you please place this application form in the bin and be so kind as to send me a letter stating the above so that I can then send it to DVLA Kits and Rebuilds Department and then they can tick a box and we can all move on with our lives.
The chassis no of the vehicle is SABTVR

Sincerely,"

[K4KEV]

Chris ...I would advise against sending a letter with any cynical remarks, it will only put their backs up and possibly scupper your chances of getting sorted out sooner rather than later ....try getting in touch with Donna Kennet as she came across as knowing what the score was, persevere but in a nice manner and let fly on here mate.

[K4KEV]

oops sorry.. bud just seen other post

[CTWV50]

Thanks Kev, Don't worry I'm just letting off steam. I won't be sending the letter in that format. I'll let you know how I get on with this anyway.

[Ianr]

Chris ...I would advise against sending a letter with any cynical remarks, it will only put their backs up and possibly scupper your chances of getting sorted out sooner rather than later ....try getting in touch with Donna Kennet as she came across as knowing what the score was, persevere but in a nice manner and let fly on here mate.


I agree with Kev on this one but you have got me worried about my application. I hope it gets resolved quickly for you

[CTWV50]

I agree with Kev on this one but you have got me worried about my application. I hope it gets resolved quickly for you

Don't worry hopefully things will be clearer once I've got through this nonsense.

[CTWV50]

They keep saying fill in the form as best you can. Well that's interesting, the NOVA Form Notification Of Vehicle Arrival. Which part do I fill in and sign?

http://www.lambretta.co.uk/downloads/nova-form.pdf

Take a look.....

"Vehicle notification system for vehicles
brought into the UK from abroad
Use this form if you are bringing a land vehicle into the UK
for permanent use. "

"Part 1 Notifier details
Only complete this section if you are notifying on behalf of the purchaser of the vehicle"

"Part 2 Supplier details
Complete this section if you (or the purchaser) are making a purchase from within the EU. See Note 4 for a list of
countries that are within the EU."

"Part 3 Vehicle type and specification
Complete this section if you (or the purchaser) purchased the vehicle inside or outside of the EU."

"Part 4 Leasing arrangements by VAT registered businesses
Complete this part of the form if the vehicle is leased from an EU supplier by a UK VAT registered business."

"Part 5 Additional vehicle questions for EU purchases
Complete this section if the vehicle was purchased in the EU. If the vehicle was purchased outside the EU go to Part 7.
If you answered ‘No’ to the question in Part 4, you do not need to answer questions 33 to 40."

"Part 6 Specific vehicle questions for VAT registered businesses
Answer both of the following questions if the vehicle was purchased from an EU supplier by a UK VAT registered
business. "

"Part 7 Additional vehicle questions for purchases outside the EU
Complete this section if you (or the purchaser) are making a purchase from outside the EU. See Note 11.
To prevent possible delays in dealing with your notification, please check that you have used the correct commodity
code and import entry details for the vehicle."

Discussion here too

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=197406&page=1#pid1657345

[CTWV50]

I spoke to one lady to ask which vehicle vin number I was to enquire about the main donor, or the car I had built. She couldn't even answer me clearly on that.... pffft!

[K4KEV]

They keep saying fill in the form as best you can. Well that's interesting, the NOVA Form Notification Of Vehicle Arrival. Which part do I fill in and sign?

http://www.lambretta.co.uk/downloads/nova-form.pdf

Take a look.....

"Vehicle notification system for vehicles
brought into the UK from abroad
Use this form if you are bringing a land vehicle into the UK
for permanent use. "

"Part 1 Notifier details
Only complete this section if you are notifying on behalf of the purchaser of the vehicle"

"Part 2 Supplier details
Complete this section if you (or the purchaser) are making a purchase from within the EU. See Note 4 for a list of
countries that are within the EU."

"Part 3 Vehicle type and specification
Complete this section if you (or the purchaser) purchased the vehicle inside or outside of the EU."

"Part 4 Leasing arrangements by VAT registered businesses
Complete this part of the form if the vehicle is leased from an EU supplier by a UK VAT registered business."

"Part 5 Additional vehicle questions for EU purchases
Complete this section if the vehicle was purchased in the EU. If the vehicle was purchased outside the EU go to Part 7.
If you answered ‘No’ to the question in Part 4, you do not need to answer questions 33 to 40."

"Part 6 Specific vehicle questions for VAT registered businesses
Answer both of the following questions if the vehicle was purchased from an EU supplier by a UK VAT registered
business. "

"Part 7 Additional vehicle questions for purchases outside the EU
Complete this section if you (or the purchaser) are making a purchase from outside the EU. See Note 11.
To prevent possible delays in dealing with your notification, please check that you have used the correct commodity
code and import entry details for the vehicle."

Discussion here too

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?
tid=197406&page=1#pid1657345

As far as I can see
1. no
2. yes
3. yes
4. no
5. yes
6. no
7. no
I wish it were that simple.... I now have doubts on a possible future build No 2

[CTWV50]

Even though the DVLA know that a search on the chassis number that they gave me will return nothing by HMRC they want me to write to HMRC and ask them for a letter confirming this. Wow bureaucracy gone mad. I tied the manager up in knots with my arguement that there was quite clearly large amounts of evidence to suggest that there was no chance this car was imported and that HMRC would have no data or oustanding duty on the chassis number that the DVLA gave me. But she said "In this case we need a letter from HMRC."

[CTWV50]

Sounds like you will be in the road in next to no time!

Have you done your coolant re route?

What we were talking about before seems to have worked for my car. I had it out twice on Monday for fairly long "progressive" trips.

David

I'm glad it resolved the issue for you, I haven't done it yet but I might spend some time doing it now I have a week or two to wait for HMRC and DVLA.

[CTWV50]

I'm still going on about this over here


http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/viewthread.php?tid=197406

[CTWV50]

Looks like the system is going to be reviewed to deal with this madness.

[CTWV50]

Looks like the system is going to be reviewed to deal with this madness.

How naive of me the madness will continue! I think the NOVA document section on restored or rebuilt cars has been badly written and is now being applied to vehicles like mine but I have persevered with the NOVA/HMRC/PTU/WHATEVER and although my car isn't an import (ok don't get me started) it is now on the NOVA database for the DVLA to check and see that there is indeed no import tax or duty due on my car. :confused: Just waiting now of the DVLA. :D

[CTWV50]

Girl dealing with my application is off sick so nothing's happenedsince I last rang. Donna said she would take it over and she would get it upstairs as soon as possible.

Meanwhile I have a stinker of a cold, probably from sitting outside on the drive cleaning and painting engine parts to keep me busy.:( Bits of engine look good though! :)

[CTWV50]

Got this in the post today.....

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7610/17066392900_f41b29f9cc_o.jpg

What a surprise! No VAT due!

[CTWV50]

Even this letter is not accurate.

"(4)Regulations under this paragraph may make provision in relation to cases where—

(a)any goods which are subject to a duty of excise or consist in a new means of transport are acquired in the United Kingdom from another member State by any person;

(b)the acquisition of the goods is a taxable acquisition and is not in pursuance of a taxable supply; and

(c)that person is not a taxable person at the time of the acquisition,

for requiring the person who acquires the goods to give to the Commissioners such notification of the acquisition, and for requiring any VAT on the acquisition to be paid, at such time and in such form or manner as may be specified in the regulations.
(5)Regulations under this paragraph may provide for a notification required by virtue of sub-paragraph (4) above—

(a)to contain such particulars relating to the notified acquisition and any VAT chargeable thereon as may be specified in the regulations; and

(b)to be given, in prescribed cases, by the personal representative, trustee in bankruptcy, interim or permanent trustee, receiver, liquidator or person otherwise acting in a representative capacity in relation to the person who makes that acquisition."

There is no paragraph 2 (5D) or (5C) for that matter!:rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

Here is a section from the NOVA document that again doesn't apply to me!

"How will component parts brought in from either insider or outside of the EU for incorporation into a restoration project be treated?

If a business or private individual buys new or used component parts (from suppliers outside of the EU or from another Member state of the EU) and these parts are incorporated in to a restoration project vehicle which will eventually be licensed and registered by the DVLA, a NOVA declaration will not be required.

Component parts that are imported from a country outside of the EU will be liable to import VAT and customs duty and should be correctly classified at the time of importation.

Component parts imported into the UK from a another member state of the EU may be subject to acquisition tax but this will depend on the tax status of the goods at the time of supply and whether the supply is to a VAT registered business or a business not VAT registered or a private individual.

Where a chassis (or frame) with sufficient major components are imported from outside the EU or from another Member State in the same consignment (as discussed above) they will not be regarded as component parts for NOVA purposes.

Kit Cars
If the components within the kit would be sufficient to constitute a complete vehicle if already assemble (see above) the Kit car must be notified into NOVA by a VAT registered business. If the Kit is imported from a country outside of the EU by a private individual Customs duty and import VAT will be payable and HMRC will make the NOVA notification on your behalf from the import declaration."

[CTWV50]

This is the only bit that could possibly apply to me but (1) it isn't a restoration, (2) There is no evidence it came from outside the UK!!! I still don't get it!:confused:

"How do I make a NOVA notification for a restoration project vehicle?

If a complete vehicle or component parts with the essential characteristics of a vehicle are imported from outside of the EU, a VAT registered business must make a NOVA notification. However, the HMRC NCH will make the notification on behalf of private individuals or non-VAT registered businesses.

If a complete vehicle or component parts with the essential characteristics of a complete vehicle are brought to the UK from another member state of the EU the NOVA notification must be made irrespective of whether the vehicle is brought in by a VAT registered business, non-VAT registered business or private individual.

In some instances a VAT registered business or non-VAT registered business/private individual (where required) may have insufficient information to make an electronic notification into NOVA, because the restoration project may have commenced before the introduction of NOVA or the vehicle was purchased in the UK partially restored and they do not know the origin of the imported vehicle and were not given any documentation showing the vehicle has been already notified into NOVA. In such circumstances a paper NOVA 1 form should be submitted, completed as fully as possible with the information available. Copies of the receipts for parts you have purchased should be included to prove that the vehicle is a restoration project."

[CTWV50]

Good news, I have been given my new AGE RELATED PLATE number, just waiting for a call back with the V5 ref and I'll be off to the local ford dealer to have plates made. Then just need to wait for an emailed updated cover note with the reg on and I can go for a drive! Can't quite believe it! :D Weather permitting!

[K4KEV]

I hope something better comes of all the red tape you have had to endure Chris, cos your story would no doubt put some peeps off having a go at an incredibly satisfying project "building your own car" hopefully peeps can see through all this waffle and still have a go .....good on yer for plodding on mate

[CTWV50]

I am aware of the negativity but all I can say is keep your receipts, take pictures, lots of pictures, keep records of dates and ask for help on here. It's still possible to get registered there's just a few more hoops to jump through at the end. I'm now in a position to advise if anyone has to go through the HMRC malarky.

Edit: An important date is the year you complete the chassis, seemed to be a sticking point with HMRC.

[CTWV50]

Got the cover note! :D

[Ianr]

Glad you've got through the mire Chris, must say it makes me a bit worried as mine is someone elses failed project and he kept none of the original receipts. As mine stands there is not a single component on the chassis that hasn't been replaced and even the chassis has been altered so I can cover all that but not purchase of original metal etc
Fingers crossed

[CTWV50]

Glad you've got through the mire Chris, must say it makes me a bit worried as mine is someone elses failed project and he kept none of the original receipts. As mine stands there is not a single component on the chassis that hasn't been replaced and even the chassis has been altered so I can cover all that but not purchase of original metal etc
Fingers crossed

You might have to get creative with your receipts, worse case is a Q Plate I'd imagine. You have the receipt for the kit car from the previous owner which should be fine for HMRC with regards to VAT. Which is all they're after really.

OK I'm done with DVLA swell now V5 is in the post. Going to see if any friendly garages will make me some reg plates tomorrow based on the cover note! :D

[Ianr]

You might have to get creative with your receipts, worse case is a Q Plate I'd imagine. You have the receipt for the kit car from the previous owner which should be fine for HMRC with regards to VAT. Which is all they're after really.

OK I'm done with DVLA swell now V5 is in the post. Going to see if any friendly garages will make me some reg plates tomorrow based on the cover note! :D

Thanks for that advice Chris - hope it works.
Number plates - ask for some 'show' plates, then you can get anything you want!
Also - are you/and maybe the car/ going to the Nat Kitcar show? Be nice to put a face to a name
Ian

[Stot]

Glad you've got through the mire Chris, must say it makes me a bit worried as mine is someone elses failed project and he kept none of the original receipts. As mine stands there is not a single component on the chassis that hasn't been replaced and even the chassis has been altered so I can cover all that but not purchase of original metal etc
Fingers crossed

For what its worth, my reciept for the steel to make the chassis was just a printed out email.. could have been from anyone..

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

Thanks for that advice Chris - hope it works.
Number plates - ask for some 'show' plates, then you can get anything you want!
Also - are you/and maybe the car/ going to the Nat Kitcar show? Be nice to put a face to a name
Ian

I doubt I'll make it to Stoneleigh this year but do want to go one year. I'm just getting over a bad clod/flu.

I've asked a friend of friend who owns a garage with plate making ability so I should be on the road tomorrow. Only concern is the council tax cheque hasn't crashed yet. :rolleyes:

[SeriesLandy]

Well done on finally getting past the dvla.
My tax disc turned up 4 days before the cheque was cashed.

[CTWV50]

Well done on finally getting past the dvla.
My tax disc turned up 4 days before the cheque was cashed.

Thanks for that Steve, Looks like I'm good to go then! :D

Benn meaning to ask, what did you use to make the pattern for your covers. That's my next job! Cheers

[CTWV50]

For what its worth, my reciept for the steel to make the chassis was just a printed out email.. could have been from anyone..

Cheers
Stot

Agree with this, they just see pieces of paper and tick boxes.

[SeriesLandy]

I ended up making 2 templates. The first was made of lining wall paper and was a failure. The second, I used a piece of clear polyethylene. I used the straight edge behind the seats as a starting point. Made a template for the headrests, cutout and then selotaped the sheet to the rear of the car. I pulled the sheet tight at the front and then marked with a sharpie
I got my mum to sew it up after transferring it to the fabric. She ended up using her old hand powered singer machine as her electric one wasn't stong enough.
Along with a centre zip.
Template picture (https://m.flickr.com/photos/serieslandy/15684062919/)

[CTWV50]

Time for a drive! :D

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8715/16699769344_6646a55e84_o.jpg

[K4KEV]

Enjoy mate you've long deserved it and you are a jammy burger ....thats a nice plate and probably worth money

[CTWV50]

Cheers Kev, don't worry there are a couple of extra numbers that I've removed but I do still like the reg. Making sure you have an invoice that says NEW chassis goes a long way to getting you an age related plate. Had a couple of blasts in it, used about a 1/4 of a tank. Scared the missus, got told off, scared my best mate who was trying to look cool in a fluffy hat and just waiting to take the kids out.

First off the speedo wasn't working and my sunnies and hat where trying to go AWOL and during the initial first 10 minutes the engine was struggling to rev past 5000rpm, then it had a bit of a episode, I just kept driving it returned home, sorted the speedo and then went back out. Stopped in a car park and rev the bollocks off of it. and then it seemed to sort itself. Might change the fuel filter just incase but it seems ok now. It's great on the twisty stuff keeping it in 2nd and 3rd above 4500rpm, runs out of puff on the straights though so I think I will fit this 1.8 engine sooner rather than later.

Since I've had nothing better to do I've spent the last 5 weeks doing this!:D

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7696/17115552957_c4a2301990_o.jpg
Will fit a lightened flywheel to it and a drilled sump (for the turbo) :D

So LSD and 1.8 is next on the cards, once the stripes and the wheel alignment are sorted.:

[CTWV50]

Shot when we were cruising waiting for the traffic ahead to clear the bends we were coming to.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8866/16700827194_916b946b7e_o.jpg

Shift light is really good, really helps to know when to change gear, I love it!

[Ianr]

Thanks Chris and Stot for the advice - Chris - looks absolutely brilliant - I like the disguise - and the car - er and the new engine, definitely jealous :)

[CTWV50]

The full face mask is ace, really keeps the cold out. I'm basically wearing my winter mountain biking gear with a retro helmet and goggles. Cosy!

Well last night after I took the kids out for a blast, which they both loved, I parked the car in the garage, when I got out there was a nice trail of oil on the floor! :eek:

I don't remember hitting the sump or anything, did I not tighten the sump plug properly! :rolleyes:

Nope the T adapter for my oil sender and oil warning light had failed! Lost about 100ml of oil, I think most of it was on the garage floor. The adapter was made of aluminium, I know I know, but it was the only one I could find at the time that was male 1/8BSPT to female 1/8NPT and 1/8BSPT female.

As a temporary fix this morning I managed to get a loctited self tapper from one of the spark plug wire brackets in there. And later on I drove over to screw fix to pickup a set of stud extractors with Gabe (8). Pretty boring drive in the school run traffic but got plenty of stares and beeps, one kid couldn't quite believe his eyes I don't think, he just stood staring at us with his mouth open at the lights. Made me laugh, maybe he thought he was looking at some undiscovered superheros!

Mate came round later and we had a quick blast, he couldn't believe the acceleration, "kicked football" I think he described it as!

And last but not least my V5 turned up "WATSON SUPER 7" it says! :D That did make me laugh!

So I'll be back in the garage tomorrow fixing it! Good times!:D

[CTWV50]

I ended up making 2 templates. The first was made of lining wall paper and was a failure. The second, I used a piece of clear polyethylene. I used the straight edge behind the seats as a starting point. Made a template for the headrests, cutout and then selotaped the sheet to the rear of the car. I pulled the sheet tight at the front and then marked with a sharpie
I got my mum to sew it up after transferring it to the fabric. She ended up using her old hand powered singer machine as her electric one wasn't stong enough.
Along with a centre zip.
Template picture (https://m.flickr.com/photos/serieslandy/15684062919/)

Think I'll attempt this this long weekend, going to be a bit rainy so this will keep me busy. Thanks for the tips.

[CTWV50]

Went to Stoneleigh yesterday, I was only there for three hours. Spoke to an Ultima owner who was selling his car or his miss was, he didn't seem to happy, £45k. Then into hall A-E quick run round there, popped my head into the cars for sale hall, not much there.

Quick watch of the Westy's being ragged around then finally found show halls 1 and 2, spoke to a guy who built a roaster back in 2012 and had since built 3 other more expensive cars and was now doing key turn builds for MEV's Aston Martin replica which looks ace.

I was then stopped dead in my tracks by this......

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7776/16741806884_8936b335c0_o.jpg

After staring and drooling for 20 minutes I finally dragged myself away spoke to westfield about the s2000 car and dimensions and then had a long chat with Canems ECU's and the Road Runner Racing guys. Some clever mx5 engine tricks going on there and the SR2 chassis design is on another level better than caterham or westfield in my opinion. Bought a QR boss from rally design quick look at the show stopping Supercharged Ultima, more drooling and then I was heading back to the car.

So many 7 types it was a bit overwhelming. There are some M3 donor 7's there but with the enormous wheels, look like you could go off road with the ground clearance. A lot of haynes roadster look a like chassis there too.

Think I'm going to concentrate on more power with my car over the next year start the double garage build at the bottom of the garden and then "maybe" start thinking about creating an uprated fully triangulated round tube roadster chassis. LOL I can't believe I've just typed that. :rolleyes:

Oh btw on the way back from screw fix the other day, about half a mile from home we heard a chirping noise, weird. When I sorted the oil sender issue I noticed I was missing something......

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8843/17157063327_5070987fc2_o.jpg

Couldn't get one on Saturday but should be able to pick one up today hopefully. Bought that belt 4 years ago when the original donor spat it's one off, only lasted 50 miles!:rolleyes:

[twinturbo]

Last time I lost a belt was in 1991! About a week after my driving test in my dads Lada Riva 1600SLX.

Did the classic old fix of a pair of a pair of tights to keep the alternator and water pump running till we could get it to the mechanic for a new belt.

TT

[CTWV50]

Last time I lost a belt was in 1991! About a week after my driving test in my dads Lada Riva 1600SLX.

Did the classic old fix of a pair of a pair of tights to keep the alternator and water pump running till we could get it to the mechanic for a new belt.

TT

I waited for a belt from EuroCarParts which I got and fitted today. Oil leak fixed, drive belt fixed, sorted the rack centering and got one of the front wheels pointing back in the right direction it was 3 turns out!:eek:

Going to try a bit more tire pressure maybe 20psi rather than 15psi.

Anyway went out for a hoon about felt better round the corners now the wheels are pointing in the right direction. BUT, the 5000prm stuttering returned. Checked all the plugs and they all look a little lean on mixture, got to be the fuel pump, filter or FPR. I'll fit the filter as soon as it arrives and see. Got some redex too. Nearly used a full tank in only 70 miles! Got a about a gallon left. 10 miles per gallon then!:D I have been foot flat to the floor 90% of the time though. :D

[CTWV50]

Fuel filter arrived today, I wasted no time in fitting it and then after contemplating a wet bottom I saw a gap in the weather at about 8:30pm and decided to risk it to the local BP garage to fill it up. Only needed 5-6 gallons so I must of still had 2 gallon left from the original tank. Anyway it revved fine to 6k plus on the way there. All filled up and walking back to my car, "er, oops" I hadn't button down the bonnet catches, not a one of them, how the hell the bonnet stayed on at 70mph is beyond me. Note to self do not fit bonnet without using latches ever again.:rolleyes:

Anyway I blasted up and down the bypass a few times taking it to the rev limit in the first four gears and it didn't miss a beat, I will check the plugs in the morning. Also I filled it up with BP Ultimate 97 ron and when I got home I chucked some redex in too, just in case.

Very pleased with it, feels planted at speed but the wind was trying to rip my helmet and goggles off!

Need to modify the wing stays, see if I can't get them rock solid.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8806/17371129491_f27543313a_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

Took the kids to school yesterday morning, great response from people. :D Last night I managed to dial in some negative camber on the front wheels, only 1 deg though using the lower wishbone as a reference. I then spent 4 hours strengthening the drivers side wheel arch support. Took it for a bast late and it seems to of worked. Needs tidying up and replanting now and then I'll do the other side. Still enjoying the build. it's great to be able to make changes and then immediately test them.

[CTWV50]

Love it or hate it, I love it! I don't know why I didn't do it earlier!:D

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7682/17572585481_f7282e6456_b.jpg

[skov]

Love it or hate it, I love it! I don't know why I didn't do it earlier!:D


Took me a while to figure out what you were on about. Have to say... Love it! :D

[CTWV50]

Took me a while to figure out what you were on about. Have to say... Love it! :D

Thanks John, my mate who's a bit of a traditionalist doesn't like it, he likes to keep things stock standard, although he has got a huge exhaust on his mk2 golf atm. If you did this to your daily driver I imagine people might think you're a cock! Lol :D

It's very 80's Trans Am.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/2c/82/94/2c82942333745bdb8c3a0018db8d8c31.jpg

[K4KEV]

lol me too.... but yep why the hell not:) ( re love it or hate it)

[K4KEV]

Ad be a knob all day in one of those ne probs:o

[CTWV50]

Ad be a knob all day in one of those ne probs:o

Me too! Until I couldn't afford any more petrol!:D

[CTWV50]

Great day today, youngest off spring's birthday and we were all off to the "Climbing Hanger" 8 miles away with some school friends. We were a seat short in the two cars that were taking everyone, so I thought I'd take the birthday boy in my contraption as the weather was excellent, no chance of rain. Nice slow leisurely drive though busy roads, got lots of attention and swarmed my teenagers at one point asking lots of questions. Just need to sort the creaky suspension and a rear cover. Suspension, a job for tomorrow, I've got some lithium grease somewhere. :D

[CTWV50]

One of the first jobs I did when I started building the car was to push in the bushes on the suspension. I did it without grease, I can't remember what my thinking was.

So I greased up the rear suspension yesterday morning using some teflon grease I had, I use it on my mountain bike as it's waterproof (you'd think all greases were waterproof, they aren't, apparently). Took it out a spin and OMG the difference. The rear end is completely silent and silky smooth over bumps, around corners the rear really hangs in there but without oversteer. Before it was good but felt skittish going from under to over steer in the corners. I'm very pleased with it but i think I could do with 300lb springs in the rear rather than 250b. With me and my 11 year old in the car I felt us going onto the bump stops occasionally.

Still got that stuttering at 5000rpm, it's occasional and manages to get over it in 1st, 2nd and 3rd but after 15 minutes driving it will not go past 5000rpm in 4th gear. I think this suggests a fuel shortage or pressure issue but have a feeling it's coil pack related. Might hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and see.

[wylliezx9r]

One of the first jobs I did when I started building the car was to push in the bushes on the suspension. I did it without grease, I can't remember what my thinking was.

So I greased up the rear suspension yesterday morning using some teflon grease I had, I use it on my mountain bike as it's waterproof (you'd think all greases were waterproof, they aren't, apparently). Took it out a spin and OMG the difference. The rear end is completely silent and silky smooth over bumps, around corners the rear really hangs in there but without oversteer. Before it was good but felt skittish going from under to over steer in the corners. I'm very pleased with it but i think I could do with 300lb springs in the rear rather than 250b. With me and my 11 year old in the car I felt us going onto the bump stops occasionally.

Still got that stuttering at 5000rpm, it's occasional and manages to get over it in 1st, 2nd and 3rd but after 15 minutes driving it will not go past 5000rpm in 4th gear. I think this suggests a fuel shortage or pressure issue but have a feeling it's coil pack related. Might hook up a pressure gauge to the fuel rail and see.

I'm thinking of going to 300 lb springs on the back too (highlighted on a recent trackday). Alternatively I have been thinking about adding an ARB. Some people say you shouldn't need them but certain Caterhams come with them as standard. I'm probably going to try the springs first and if the ride is too harsh go back to 250 lb springs and add an ARB.

[CTWV50]

I'm thinking of going to 300 lb springs on the back too (highlighted on a recent trackday). Alternatively I have been thinking about adding an ARB. Some people say you shouldn't need them but certain Caterhams come with them as standard. I'm probably going to try the springs first and if the ride is too harsh go back to 250 lb springs and add an ARB.

It's not really a corning issue for me I'm just a bit heavier than your average bloke I think. Helps with traction though! :D (16 stone)

[flyerncle]

Believe it or not grease is composed of soap,so not waterproof,does clean your hands though.

[CTWV50]

Believe it or not grease is composed of soap,so not waterproof,does clean your hands though.

You learn something new........!:)

[CTWV50]

As I am still at a loss as to the lack of power occasionally over 5000rpm I thought I'd hook up a gauge to measure the fuel pressure.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8807/17830960835_0da87ec741_z.jpghttps://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7759/17828149272_32ff52b4fb_z.jpghttps://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8841/17830979185_b787b31332_z.jpg

Went out to test it and low and behold the power stutter returned after 10 minutes of driving. Fuel pressure remain solidly at 40psi (3bar), after a little thinking as I was driving I thought this must be coil pack related then but then thought what happens if i turn the lights off during a stutter ( I have been driving around with the lights on for safety/visability). Well the car took off like a rocket when I turned off the lights and when I turned them back on the car started struggling again. Now is this coils, the alternator, or could the tiny battery be the issue. I'm pretty sure the battery does nothing really when driving other than charge, car always starts first time so does that rule out the alternator. SO coils then?!?!:confused:

[Ianr]

Any idea what your voltages are Chris, I know this may sound daft but it seems to me you have a voltage drop, perhaps a faulty earth somewhere????
Ian

[CTWV50]

Any idea what your voltages are Chris, I know this may sound daft but it seems to me you have a voltage drop, perhaps a faulty earth somewhere????
Ian

yeah I think there is a drop in voltage might try a few tests tomorrow. But with the time delay of around 10-15mins I think the lower voltage is highlighting a weak coil pack when it gets warm. But could be a faulty alternator or regulator. hmmm

[TheArf]

It's all down to that electrickery stuff it don't play fair, unlike mechanical trickery, it hides out of sight.

arfon

[CTWV50]

So this morning I had a look at the coil packs and they seemed fine no bad connections or anything, removed the fuel pressure gauge and then fired it up, then I turn it off and put the spark leads in the correct order! :D Measured the voltage at the battery 14.4v turned on the lights 13.5v, rear fog and main beam and I was dipping into 12v territory. Thanks for the tips everyone my finger was hovering over the "buy it now" button for some coil packs last night, I did check the earths, but I was paranoid about good earths when wiring up the engine and the earths were solid.

Going to take the 1.8 alternator off the 1.8, change the pulley on the alt or the 1.6 engine pulleys and see how I get on. No money spent and a easyish solution.

[CTWV50]

Stripped down the front of the engine, nose off, etc. No sheared bolts fortunately, but the crank ribbed pulley is chemically welded to the toothed crank pulley behind. I've t*****d it lots but have given up for the evening and left it soaking in WD40. If it still stubborn in the morning I'll be using fire. Oh and I've caused a leak from the water pump inlet so I'll have to fix that too!:rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

All fixed, managed to get the crank pulley off this morning and fit the 1.8 pulleys, this evening I got the 1.8 alternator in and everything back in the engine bay including fixing that coolant leak from the rotted 6mm pipe I disturbed, it was going to go eventually anyway.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7740/17909242665_781e2b0f10_z.jpg

I now have a steady 14.4v with the lights on or off which is much better than before. 1.8 alt is bigger and needs a larger ring connector which fortunately I had. :D ribbed belt is a better design too so it solves the v-belt 1.6 issue aswell.

Nose on in the morning and then fit the 300lb springs and take it for a drive I guess! :cool:

[TheArf]

Better to have found the perished hose at home rather than on the side of the road

Arfon

[Ianr]

All fixed,

Nose on in the morning and then fit the 300lb springs and take it for a drive I guess! :cool:

I'll be interested in your feelings about the 300lb springs, I've eaten a few more pies than you and have 250lb fitted
Ian

[wylliezx9r]

I'll be interested in your feelings about the 300lb springs, I've eaten a few more pies than you and have 250lb fitted
Ian

Yes let us know what the ride is like, it's not so much a weight issue with me it's the way the back end rolled on a recent track day.

[CTWV50]

Got it all back together, engine issue is resolved Rev cleanly all the way 7k every time now. Springs have reduced sag yet maintained grip in the corners. Walking as I type so excuse any errors. :D I did manage to clip my number plate though and rattle a wheel arch loose! The list continues ! :D

[CTWV50]

BLOODY CATS EYES! lol

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8862/17780011100_eb63ab8eb8_z.jpg

Went too fast between two single lane speed bumps, cleared the speed bumps fine but when the suspension squatted down at the front I must of caught the reg on a cats eye or something! Haha how ironic! lol

Got it all back together, engine issue is resolved Rev cleanly all the way 7k every time now. Springs have reduced sag yet maintained grip in the corners. Walking as I type so excuse any errors. :D I did manage to clip my number plate though and rattle a wheel arch loose! The list continues ! :D

Just to expand on this I can go quicker on bumpy surfaces especially big dips in the road and small hump back bridges. I haven't lost the balance when cornering etc. Understeer is gone and oversteer is available through aggressive steering input! I like it! Geometry needs sorting though I just can't get it right. Going to have it professionally done soon.

Other things of note, I've changed my wing mirrors for lifeline single seater race mirrors, I still haven't made a rear cover. I still haven't strengthened the pass side wheel arch support, I have reinstated the the indicator stalk as the buttons are not convenient for fast road driving. :rolleyes: I have fitted a weld-on steering boss from rally design to a 2nd column I had and removed it immediately to be sent back to rally design, too much play in the splines, probably the last thing I ever buy from them there unbranded products are utter s***e. I'm not bothering with a removable steering wheel I've bought a gear/handbrake lock instead. I haven't done the stripes yet either!

[CTWV50]

1.8 alt and pulleys on a 1.6 engine! :)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8770/17941770436_0d2b2d4149_z.jpg

[norton]

Hi,

I've read through your thread (great read and very useful) but, an I probably missed it but what brand bodywork did you use?

Cheers
Gav

[CTWV50]

Hi,

I've read through your thread (great read and very useful) but, an I probably missed it but what brand bodywork did you use?

Cheers
Gav

Hi Gav,

AGM! http://www.agmsportscars.co.uk

I recommend the bodywork but as with most it's not perfect. My only real complaint is looking at the rear arches, one side is slightly different to the other, hardly noticeable but it did bug me for a couple of weeks. There was an old timer called Alan Whitehead making the panels and the gelcoat was almost flawless but he's retired now and sold on the moulds and the websites not responding at the moment. The colour I ordered is Ayres red 503 (Masons paint colour). HTH

Certainly recommend the nose, bonnet and scuttle they fit really well with some patience.

[CTWV50]

Found some info on who is making the panels now. Seems like a professional bloke. I wanted to find him in case I need replacements.

http://www.totalkitcar.com/2014/07/17/new-home-for-agms-hayneslocost-panels/

"All change at AGM Sportscars, with the company’s kit projects finding new homes. The very capable WLR is now under the control of Adrian Beale, the man who debuted a brand new Cobra replica at Stoneleigh this year.

Meanwhile, AGM’s Alan Whitehead is a gifted GRP laminator and also offered a range of panels to suit Locost and Haynes Roadster kits, gaining a great reputation for the quality of glassfibre.

That side of the business is now known as Al’s Locost Body Shop run by engineer, Ian Armitage, a close neighbour of AGM, located on the same industrial estate. The plan is to continue offering the panels, available either as a full package or as individual parts, but also to add extras to the pricelist, the sort of stuff that Locost and Haynes Roadster builders would find attractive.

Because of Ian’s engineering background and skill with metal, it’s no surprise to learn that a chassis package is under development as are wishbones. More information on this one soon.

Prices for GRP panel kits are very keen, with Locost bodykit at £620 and Haynes Roadster 10-piece ensemble at £750.

Don’t forget the place and the date you read this news item. First again…

A new website is under development but in the meantime you can find more information via the www.agmsportscars.co.uk or 07752 194 200 ENDS."

Oh here we go!
http://alsbodyshop.co.uk

[CTWV50]

Took a trip out in it today on my own to visit an old friend and take him for a spin. He was suitably shook up after our little excursion. :D Got a nice pic of his mk2 8v and my car on his driveway.:cool:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8823/18052515415_b3c91d0558_c.jpg

[norton]

Great stuff, appreciate the link thank you.

[CTWV50]

LOL! :D

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7777/17454228424_5a3fc4d6a5_z.jpg

Car coded axle stands, I was a bit bored!:)

[alga]

AGM! http://www.agmsportscars.co.uk

I recommend the bodywork but as with most it's not perfect. My only real complaint is looking at the rear arches, one side is slightly different to the other, hardly noticeable but it did bug me for a couple of weeks.

After smashing NTS's flawed rear arches, I ordered AGM's. The price was very good and the wings looked sweet when they arrived. However, they were very light (just over 1 kg each!), made out of single layer of 600g matting with thicker edges, and didn't take another traffic cone impact too well. Also, the rear surface of the arches is not strictly cylindrical, so the Caterham Britax rear light does not sit very well on it.

[rpjg1975]

After smashing NTS's flawed rear arches, I ordered AGM's. The price was very good and the wings looked sweet when they arrived. However, they were very light (just over 1 kg each!), made out of single layer of 600g matting with thicker edges, and didn't take another traffic cone impact too well. Also, the rear surface of the arches is not strictly cylindrical, so the Caterham Britax rear light does not sit very well on it.

Stop hitting things Albert! :D

[CTWV50]

Also, the rear surface of the arches is not strictly cylindrical, so the Caterham Britax rear light does not sit very well on it.

Agree with this also, maybe avoid the rear arches when ordering the body kit, also alga you should try harder to avoid those traffic cones! :) :p

[Stot]

In contrast I recon I could jack up my car by the Equinox arches.... :p

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

Beefed up the pass side wheel arch support. Not as much as the drivers side, but I thought I'd see how this version faired. It's made from baby-dam-baby-den-bars! :D

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8855/18385660720_642331955e_z.jpg

In other news I've ordered the 1.8 a 4.5kg flywheel! :D Oh and just bought a MX5 mk2 1.8 to break and keep the engine, possibly.

[Davidbolam]

Beefed up the pass side wheel arch support. Not as much as the drivers side, but I thought I'd see how this version faired. It's made from baby-dam-baby-den-bars! :D

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8855/18385660720_642331955e_z.jpg

In other news I've ordered the 1.8 a 4.5kg flywheel! :D Oh and just bought a MX5 mk2 1.8 to break and keep the engine, possibly.

I went for the easy option and westfield sell them powder coated for 35 each

Have you been out much in your car? Mine has now done 400 miles!

[CTWV50]

I went for the easy option and westfield sell them powder coated for 35 each

Have you been out much in your car? Mine has now done 400 miles!

250 miles atm I only seem to drive it to test improvements, repairs or just for a blast. Soon I'll be driving it to test engine upgrades etc, it's a lot of fun I doubt I'll tire of it, but I built it to see if I could, and now I'm going to enjoy changing and upgrading it I've no room to build another one. Today I stripped dawn the 1.8 loom of all the unecessaries ready for fitting.

[Davidbolam]

Did you fit a shift light to your car? If so which wire was for the tacho?

David

[CTWV50]

Did you fit a shift light to your car? If so which wire was for the tacho?

David

Yes, Black with a white strip.

[Davidbolam]

Yes, Black with a white strip.

Did you wire it at the back of the dash , ecu or coil

Thanks

David

[CTWV50]

Did you wire it at the back of the dash , ecu or coil

Thanks

David

Behind the click cluster, yes.

[CTWV50]

Got myself a new toy, 10lb XTD flywheel. Knocked the pilot bearing in the other day. Few other bits still to get before I fit this 1.8 engine.

Went out for a good blast yesterday too, lovely warm weather so I just wore a t-shirt. Still surprises me how quick it is with this little 1.6 engine and only 90bhp. Does make me LOL! What's a 133bhp going to be like!

I did hit two big ripples/bumps in the road going into a corner fast, probably too fast, it really unsettled the cars balance under braking, whole car seemed to jump in the air and skip to the outside with a little screech of the rear tires, bit of a brown trouser moment, also managed to get the fan to kick in going flat out, definatley need to sort out better cooling especially in this hot weather.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5536/18702846470_7098a61bcc_z.jpghttps://c1.staticflickr.com/1/540/18702838268_650a35742d_z.jpghttps://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3730/18268008044_533b331bbc_z.jpghttps://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5563/18269905513_0aeb49750c_z.jpg

Oh also there's a 1999 Mk2 MX5 sitting on the driveway already in bits. Engines done a good few miles but it still goes like stink, it's the next version of the 1.8 before the VVT it has solid lifter camshafts and a Variable Inlet Manifold, feels like a much bigger engine with the torque delivery. I think I'll rebuild it with forged rods and turbo that engine, can't make up my mind. I'm becoming a bit of a serial MX5 killer!

[CTWV50]

Not much happening at the mo, just stripping this mx5 mk2 for ebay parts to get my money back and make a few extra quid. In preparation for the mk1 1.8 (1997) engine I have decided to redesign the layout in the engine bay. So on Saturday I took a drive to Demon Tweaks and got myself a tiny battery bike and cage and have fitted it on top of pedal box. I now have more space for centrally mounted alloy header tank when I fit the 1.8 and will move the fuse box near to the other one.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3685/19188704138_acd35c8c1d_z.jpg

[CTWV50]

I noticed a bit of endfloat on the mk1 and mk2 1.8 engines and thought I'd check it out while they were easy to access.the mk1 1.8 had 120,000 on the clock and was o.oo6" which is the new spec! I knew this engine had been well looked after. The mk2 had 170,000 on the clock and it measured o.oo8", Wow still within the wear limits too!I was impressed!https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3722/19370207322_c129647ba8_z.jpghttps://c1.staticflickr.com/1/373/19190167569_c66b92d6d8_z.jpg

http://www.miata.net/solo/99miatathrustbearingfailure.html

[RichardH]

did you come up with a solution for the sump yet? just fitted my engine and i dont like how low the sump is to make the engine clear

[CTWV50]

did you come up with a solution for the sump yet? just fitted my engine and i dont like how low the sump is to make the engine clear

Hmmm, I thought the same and had a 3mm piece of steel bent to be used as a sump guard, it wasn't a great solution and would pickup stones from my drive and actually come into contact with a lot more stuff. So I took it off. I have actually only grounded my sump out in use on those really short carpark speed bumps, the ones you literally have to go over stupid slow, if I come across these I just carefully push the sump over them :eek: , I mainly just avoid them. The sump has never made contact with any road surface during use and some of the roads round here are pretty bad. Obviously you don't want to let a narrow hump in the road go under the middle of your car but then you are acutely aware of the road surface you are on purely due to the nature of the car.

I thought about shortening the sump but I'm not sure it's needed and the gained clearance is minimal due to the gearbox. What I did do though is fit an oil pressure gauge, warning light and buzzer just incase.

My car has a lowered floor too which means I have to be careful anyway as I'll damage the floor of the car even if a shortened sump clears. I think part of the reason it hasn't been a issue for me is because I spent a lot of time figuring out the front suspension setup so I could retain the full steering travel lock to lock of the the escort rack, a side affect of this was fitting 450lb springs at the front so my car doesn't tend to dive at the front under breaking. I've also fitted 300lb springs at the rear which is a little more than the norm.

HTH

Chris

[RichardH]

thanks for that, i havent bought coilovers yet so i guess that will be the next hing to watch. some of the race cars i deal with have a sump protector bar rather than a sump gaurd that is another idea, the bar is the same height as the sump just four inches further forward so that hits before the sump does, almost sacrificial if you like

[CTWV50]

This is the post about the front suspension all explained best I can.

I’ve been asked by a couple of people about why I’ve gone for 13” shocks on the front so I thought I might as well give an explanation on my build thread.

I have been working on the issue of the steering contacting wishbones on full droop. I thought I had resolved this by welding in rack limiters as you can see previously in my build thread. This seemed a good solution to prevent the steering on full lock contacting the front of the wishbones but after driving the car in a space large enough to complete a full turning circle it quickly became apparent that the amount of limiting done to resolve the contact issue was too much. I had something like a 19 metre turning circle which I estimated my using google earth lol! I also couldn’t make left turns without going into the opposite lane of traffic, a bit like a bus. So something had to be done.

I know others have used 14” open shocks and rack limiters and have been happy with the results so I maybe just a one off due to my particular Saturn wishbones and the fact I was using Gaz 14” open shocks and not 13” with a 1” top hat. I don’t know, but my turning circle was unacceptable to me.

As I was so far down the line with build and pretty much committed to using MX5 uprights and saturn wishbones (which I actually can’t see how you could improve for clearance without bending) I decided the issue was droop and I needed to limit that droop. Although I didn’t need to change the shocks to limit droop it seemed daft to keep them and not use their full travel. So as a quick test I fitted the 12” rear dampers but they weren’t able to give a correct ride height without a lot of preload and were giving me next to no droop at all and very little actual suspension. So I bought a set of 13” dampers to see were they would put me.

The 13” dampers worked well I could achieve a good ride height without spring preload and also level wishbones, which I’d not been able to achieve with the 14” dampers and 400lb springs (without them being loose on full droop) I also had plenty of droop and active suspension but I was getting contact again at the very end of the steering lock at full droop. So the options were limit the steering lock again but only by a small amount this time or move the shock bracket on the wishbone to again limit droop a small amount and prevent contact.

Limiting the steering was the easy solution but because I’d gone to all this effort I decided I might as well go the whole way and see were I ended up so off came the wishbone brackets and after a lot of careful measuring and estimation of ride height and droop I got them both tacked back on in the right position. It took three attempts to get the 2nd bracket in the correct location to get matching ride height and no wishbone contact.

By moving the brackets outwards slightly I had changed the ride height the cars front frame bottom rail, it was only 85mm off the ground with no spring preload. I could of put preload into the spring but I thought this would be excessive so I ordered some 450lb springs, which seems like a lot but changing the angle of the shock had increased the leverage on the spring.

I fitted the springs last night and with only hand tightening preload the car sits at a static ride height of 105mm. The springs can still be turned by hand when unloaded from the cars weight and the shock length with the cars weight on them is around 12” in length giving 1” of shock droop. Droop at the wheel though is around 1.5-2". The ride is supple yet firm, obviously I haven’t used the car in the real world so I shall keep hold of the 400lb springs for the time being just incase the ride is too firm at the front.

If you can get away with rack limiting with the wishbones you're using and you're happy with it then that’s the solution. As I’ve said mine was just stupid so I had to do something.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7110/13242330215_41b2e19d45.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mbbpqc)

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2865/13242336945_ed62ca9f8b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mbbrqe)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7118/13242378805_b67f3a31a0.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mbbDRX)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7268/13242344065_8f07a5d40f.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mbbtwZ)

[CTWV50]

Made it out to a local Charity Classic Car Show at the weekend with some friends. All sorts there so I didn't feel out of place, met a Robin Hood owner who has a Haynes chassis in the garage, he's planing a bike engined build so we should see him on here soon. :)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/388/18878180113_c911a7ea15_z.jpg

[norton]

Hi, Could I ask please how you managed to get your handbrake cables to clear the chassis at the caliper end?

I have these calipers.

http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/images/prod_thumbs/NA01-26-61XCsml.jpg

The bracket holding the outer cable is shaped such that the cable has to turn a very tight turn to clear the chassis. and thats with the car sat at a normal ride height so the problem will get worse under compression.

I'm baffled!

[CTWV50]

You need to remove the bracket and bend it a little more in a vice, then shorten the bracket and redrill the mounting hole to bolt it to the calipers. Hope that makes sense. Oh and when you go for your IVA wind the spring collors up on the dampers to make sure they don't touch on the day, skovs, and stots thread have more details.

[norton]

Ah fantastic, thank you!

[CTWV50]

Not done much of late, had the car out a few times but have been distracted by the purchase of my holiday hire bike (cheap, comfy and fast) and the weather. Doing more miles on that than in the car, training for my first Audax event (long distance cycling).

I have been collecting parts for the 1.8 engine fitment. I currently have the new alloy 3 core rad and alloy header tank, need some waterless coolant, some plumbing bits, and a few other bits n bobs but probably going to be a winter project.

[norton]

I think pictures of engine and radiator porn are required...

[CTWV50]

I think pictures of engine and radiator porn are required...

LOL, Voyeur like tendencies will be satisfied in due course. :D

[norton]

Hi Chris, did you have any issues with your back wheels touching the upper arm at all?

[CTWV50]

Hi Chris, did you have any issues with your back wheels touching the upper arm at all?

Mmm no, unless I just didn't notice have you any pictures? My wheels are 13" but ET38 iirc. edit: make that ET15 doh! They are 20mm further out than stock mx5 wheels offset.

[norton]

Ah et15! That explains it, I need some spacers as mine are et30something.

[voucht]

Norton, I'm pretty sure you know, but just to make sure, for 20mm-ish, choose "double bolts" spacers like this one (sorry, French website, but you will find them in the UK for sure)
http://www.bps-racing.com/elargisseurs-porsche-vw-5x130-diametre-71-5-epais-12mm-m3a.html

...or at least some with offset centre bore like these ones.
http://www.bps-racing.com/elargisseurs-porsche-vw-5x130-diametre-71-5-epais-20mm-m3a.html

[norton]

Hubcentric ones, yes thats my plan. I'm negotiating with an ebay seller at the moment trying to get the price down as they're :eek: expensive!

[Stot]

Only problem with those is MX5 hubs have studs rather than bolts. For 20mm you are going to want hubcentric with longer studs in the hubs.

Cheers
Stot

[voucht]

"Hubcentric", that's the word! Thanks, I'm learning almost every day out here :)

Yes, they are very expensive, and sometimes, it is cheaper to find other wheels with the right ET...

[norton]

Well, these wheel were £190 for a brand new set of 4 so even if I buy hubs I'll still have saved a bit. I can atleast spacer the wheels to be flush with the rear arches.

Stanced! :rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

Well, these wheel were £190 for a brand new set of 4 so even if I buy hubs I'll still have saved a bit. I can atleast spacer the wheels to be flush with the rear arches.

Stanced! :rolleyes:

I only went with ET15 so the rears filled the arches but then I decided it wouldn't hurt to go ET 15 on the front for clearance just incase. Can you not send the wheels back and have them send you a different ET set. I tried spacers with the original mx5 wheels and it just made me feel uneasy when fitted. edit: ET15 on the front with 13" wheels just about allowed use of full escort rack steering lock btw.

[Rosco]

what width "13s are you running?

[norton]

I'l sourced some good quality spacer which if the rear arch drawins are accurate should result a good looking fitment.

13x7 Rosco although a 13x8 would likely be possible on the rear if desired.

[CTWV50]

what width "13s are you running?

7" 185 front 205 rear

[CTWV50]

OUT

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/669/21176462268_37a8e2d936_c.jpg

I've gotten use to my car and it's performance so time for a change, I finally took the plunge and removed the engine while the sun was still out! And I finally own an engine crane!:)

This 1.6 engine did a full 360 miles in my car, I'm so glad I didn't spend loads of money on it.:D I might even reuse the filter and the oil out of it! lol!

[norton]

What are have you done to the 1800?

[CTWV50]

What are have you done to the 1800?

Lighter flywheel (4.5kg), 70mm 3 core radiator and a Mocal oil cooler for now. Oh and a coolant reroute.

[CTWV50]

Engine went in and the bonnet fitted fine. I was shocked I didn't have to do more to clear the bonnet. Had to tit-about quite a bit getting the gearbox and engine together! Then the rope let go of the engine and it dropped all of 5mm on to the steering column extension! :eek: EEK!! No damage done but I need to get a chain or something for next time.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/687/21194054264_581e39ce98_c.jpg

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5732/21195712613_b8b314edc3_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/778/21816824885_22d2d3677d_c.jpg

I'm using the 1.6 1995 throttle body hose for connection to the ISV and AFM. Handy.

[Ianr]

That looks good Chris, did you have to do anything with the engine mounts to suit the 1.8 engine? I nearly bought a 1.8 car a few days ago with the intention of doing exactly what you are :) :) :) nearly - I was outbid by a Belgian bidder

[CTWV50]

Bloody Belgians! Coming over here! Buying our donor cars! Lol!

The engine just dropped straight in, excuse the pun! Had to weld in a lambda boss to the downpipe and weld up the EGR port on the manifold but the exhaust itself bolted straight up, which was nice!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/717/21643628530_ef2fd9b8c6_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/617/21643821258_a86d90bd2e_c.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/662/21841317121_91aa18ef39_c.jpg

Got the AFM mounted with a new Universal K&N Cone Filter. Which matched the body work. Which again was nice!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/678/21643646250_98bac29549_c.jpg

Horns now mounted out the way to make way for the BIG rad!

[CTWV50]

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/773/21851067692_8299ae95c0_c.jpg

I've fitted a Mocal thermostatic oil cooler, yes I did use the the old engines oil and filter! Lol

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5816/21851086522_bac82ceefe_c.jpg

Pipes I bought were equal length so they took an interesting natural route to the cooler itself. Self supporting themselves on the bottom rails.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/742/21241947213_0b990a36d3_c.jpg

The cooler itself is fixed behind the the radiator, supported top and bottom with nylock nuts and m6 threaded bar.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/740/21674984900_374b3f6905_c.jpg

I know the oil cooler would be best fitted up against the front of the radiator but this suited my current installation better for now and it is in a high airflow location anyway so should be fine.

[CTWV50]

I've mounted the new BIG rad in the same position for now but I have worked out I can fit it a' la' Stot in the future. I've decided to skip the coolant reroute for now to see how the car and temps behave.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5623/21905469831_fcda3dd76b_c.jpg

Got my header tank mounted high and central as possible, all shiny and new.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/633/21707991578_3ddba56535_c.jpg

And finally got all the plumbing sorted, I've run the filler to the front hose to prevent any air locks and the pressure relief hose runs down with the speedo cable to under the gearbox. So if I ever do overheat no water will enter or go near the electrics which was an issue with the vw polo header tank.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/687/21895848755_0e03c39eb7_c.jpg

[metal matt]

Up grade looking good there Chris. But I must ask, are you going to brave the colder weather to give it a test run and I have been tempted to upgrade my RAD to a nice shine alloy one.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124541083@N02/

[CTWV50]

Up grade looking good there Chris. But I must ask, are you going to brave the colder weather to give it a test run and I have been tempted to upgrade my RAD to a nice shine alloy one.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/124541083@N02/

The last few post have been retrospective, I already have, and it's been quite warm and pleasant for September.

But I tell you what I nearly locked up the garage and let it be for 6 months when the wiring looked like this!!!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/745/21905934821_2feb7732f8_c.jpg

[CTWV50]

So I got it all sorted out. Wiring got a little bit much and I nearly made a possibly fatal error by wiring the B/W tacho wire to the B/W engine fuse wire, luckily I realised my error before connecting up the battery. Also mixed up the wires on my oil alarm so it went off as soon as you turned on the ignition. I'd wired it to the L/R ignition wire rather than the L/R fuel pump wire from the fuel pump relay. doh! Also my oil pressure gauge didn't work when I first turned it over. Couldn't figure out why but then I realised I'd earthed the body of the sender when I'd repositioned it. Ha! Soldered a wire to earth from the body of the sender which solved that issue.


https://farm1.staticflickr.com/584/21776295940_31d71acb8a_c.jpg

It wouldn't start initially but it was struggling to turn over. I hooked up a 2nd battery and to my surprise it fired up about 9pm on a Saturday. Sounded terrible though due to the lack of oil in the hydraulic tappets. Turned it off a few times thinking I didn't have oil pressure but no, it was just sticking tappets. Let it warm up and then revved it a bit and it was fine.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5693/21343290953_22119e91e9_c.jpg

I still had loads of wires to shorten but before I got stuck in I decided to look for error codes using the LED trick. This got quite interesting as I was getting three error codes, 11, 14, 22. Two of these didn't exist in the two digit error list which was confusing. I found someone else on the internet with the same three errors. 14 is an ecu internal barometric sensor error.

http://www.mazdamenders.net/index.php/faqs-a-how-to/112-problems/124-mk1-diagnostic-fault-codes.html

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5651/21343293493_173b28975d_c.jpg

The dot/dash combination was -.-....--.. then a long pause. I knew that later cars had ODBII but this car had no OBDII port so assumed it was not OBDII.

Any how after a while I thought I'd look up some OBDII codes and discovered that a faulty coolant temp sensor should be P0115.

http://engine-codes.com/p0115_mazda.html

So then I pulled the rear green engine coolant sensor. I got the same previous error but also got another set of three digits

21,11,15 or --.-.-.....

so there was plenty of ones and fives in there but also these tens and a twenty. Eventually I figures out a dash - wasn't ten but was intact a separator so...

-- was two separators with no digit in the middle so that would be zero so I was actually getting -0-1-1-5 which was the correct code for the coolant temp sensor. I then looked up P1402 or -1-4-0-2 and found it was an erg issue.

http://engine-codes.com/p1402_mazda.html

I'd had the EGR device plugged into the loom to prevent any errors but it appeared removing the sensor from the alloy body had allowed the plunger to fully extend causing the error.

So 3 hours later I'd resolved the fault codes and could then carry on shortening the wires happy that all the wiring was OK.

What a palaver! :)

[SteveH1]

Nice build.
Where did you get the header tank from
Thanks
Stephen

[Rosco]

looks really neat! i love how clean it all looks!

[Ianr]

Its very interesting to see how your engine fitting compares with mine Chris. I don't know where you got the room for the battery where it is. As always brilliantly put together. Are you still using the same ECU or is it another for the 1.8 (I ask co I may be doing the same sometime)? :)

[CTWV50]

Nice build.
Where did you get the header tank from
Thanks
Stephen

From a company called compbrake (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Horizontal-Round-Header-Tank-Rally-Race-Performance-Track-4x4-1-Ltr-CMB1577-/271818083482?hash=item3f499ecc9a). Fairly expensive but clean and neat and of high quality. Any over pressure is dealt with by the cap which has an 8mm spout you can direct away from the electrics and engine bay. The polo one would just spit it out the back.

looks really neat! i love how clean it all looks!

Cheers, it's amazing what you can do when you have time on your hands. I did most of it whilst waiting for the DVLA. It's probably the cleanest engine I've ever had inside and out. I used simonz silver alloy wheel paint from halfards to paint most of the parts and a hightemp silver paint for the exhaust which seems to be holding up well.

Its very interesting to see how your engine fitting compares with mine Chris. I don't know where you got the room for the battery where it is. As always brilliantly put together. Are you still using the same ECU or is it another for the 1.8 (I ask co I may be doing the same sometime)? :)

No I had to wire in the 1.8 donors ECU, just a case of routing and shortening wires and trying to figure out which wires go to the back and to the fuse box. Every year of MX5 seems to be different and god know why they use same colour and stripe wires for different things like the engine fuse B/W and tach wire or the L/R ignition live but also fuel pump relay to pump wire. Took a week of every spare hour to get it all wired up neat.

The battery is a quality bike battery I think it's a varley (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/batteries/varley-red-top-20-battery) redtop 20 or 25 I forget. Very compact and just there to start the engine really. It wasn't that expensive at the time but still a lot for a battery. Thanks for the compliments guys. Nice to know someones still reading my thread.:)

Sorry what am I saying!!! It's an Odyssey Extreme Racing 25 Battery - PC680 (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/batteries/odyssey-extreme-racing-25-battery-pc680) , I think i was just looking at the varleys at the time!! Doh!

[norton]

Has the lighter flywheel made it rev up more snappily?

[CTWV50]

Has the lighter flywheel made it rev up more snappily?

It's hard to say as I didn't drive this car with this engine without it but I can say that it feels more in balance with the weight of the car. When you come of the throttle there is definitely more engine braking due to the lower rotating mass. No downsides to it really. Initial off then line acceleration is more brutal and dramatic I'd say with this engine and in corners you can't just plant your foot down without some opposite lock action. Which makes the car more exciting to drive.

My friend was around at the weekend and we went for a quick blast. I asked his opinion on the speed of the thing and asked what it compared to. He's a car nut and has experience of lots of different cars and also works for Mazda. He described it as being a similar experience to, well here is the text.....,

"Trying to think of something to compare the off the mark acceleration to your car.
Came up with the time i was on the back of a Kawasaki gsr 1100.
; ) "

So although I judge the increase in speed and excitement as fairly mild compared to the previous engine. Others would say otherwise.

[norton]

A solid result then, well done!

But, what next...

[CTWV50]

A solid result then, well done!

But, what next...


Mmmm, I've got that LSD to fit but I want the car to need the LSD so I'm not sure where to go with it yet! Turbo, mk2 engine, mk2 enigine then turbo, supercharger. S2000 engine and gearbox? I'm not sure. :confused: Might have a play with microsquirt next.:)

[norton]

If you can afford it the surely the s2000 engine is a no brainer.

The 2.0 engine fitted to the newer mx5 is the same as a ford duratec. The mx5 they come in has a 5 speed gearbox which I believe is the same as ours asides from the bell housing which means it should fit our cars. That means a duratec is potentially a less complicated swap. 200bhp with itb's and decent exhaust. 220bhp is then a cam away.

[CTWV50]

If you can afford it the surely the s2000 engine is a no brainer.

The 2.0 engine fitted to the newer mx5 is the same as a ford duratec. The mx5 they come in has a 5 speed gearbox which I believe is the same as ours asides from the bell housing which means it should fit our cars. That means a duratec is potentially a less complicated swap. 200bhp with itb's and decent exhaust. 220bhp is then a cam away.

Yep, the options are pretty broad but my wallet isn't!! :D

[norton]

Well, for the record I've seen the 5 speed boxes go for as little as £100 and good 2.0 Duratecs between £100 - £200. I'm not sure about rwd sump, flywheel, clutch parts but it's certainly do -able on a budget. Inlet/exhaust/management might double the cost though...

[CTWV50]

Not much to report, other than scaring my brother-in-law half to death. Not difficult! Hahaha! :D

[CTWV50]

So out of curiosity/boredom, I stripped down my old 1.6 engine and discovered two things I hadn't realised before. No.1, it didn't have a water to oil cooler, don't know why I didn't notice this before. And No.2 although it's a 88/90bhp 1.6 9:1CR engine, post 1995, rumoured to not have piston oil squirters, well it does!

There's so much false information on mx5 engines out there.:rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

I'm still alive after the worst of the winter gloom, doing some pedal bike miles and bike upgrades/repairs. 1.6 engine is still in bits on the garage floor untouched as per my usual winter garage/car lull. Went to the Local Honda Dealer today to pick out the latest box on wheels. We got chatting about my surname amongst other things and I mention that the DVLA now have a vehicle make called Watson registered with them. I was then prompted by the missus to show the guy a picture of it. Well, the man was visibly shocked and amazed, he couldn't seem to comprehend that I'd made a car and got it registered as a Watson Super 7. Haha! Funny! Walked out that dealership a few inches taller. :D

[skov]

Ha, nice one Chris :)
Good to see you're still alive! I started mine up for the first time in months yesterday :eek:

[CTWV50]

Ha, nice one Chris :)
Good to see you're still alive! I started mine up for the first time in months yesterday :eek:

Good, you're not selling then! Found any inspiration for the spring?

[skov]

Good, you're not selling then! Found any inspiration for the spring?

Only because there was no one interested in buying it!

Not sure what to do with her to be honest. I can't see me driving it again any time soon and it does take up a lot of space, but I don't really want to let her go :(

[CTWV50]

Went out for a blast last week, bit damp, nearly died! :eek: Put it back in the garage till the summer!:D

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1616/24901600176_8794da50b5_b.jpg

[SeriesLandy]

Lol. Mines been in bed since September! I'll prob get it out in May.

[garyout]

Not a great lover of red but I got to say I really like that :) is that equinox body work??


Roll on the summer

Gary :D

[CTWV50]

Not a great lover of red but I got to say I really like that :) is that equinox body work??


Roll on the summer

Gary :D

Me neither but with the black wheels etc it works. No it's another supplier but I forget the name now.

[CTWV50]

Oh here we go......

Found some info on who is making the panels now. Seems like a professional bloke. I wanted to find him in case I need replacements.

http://www.totalkitcar.com/2014/07/17/new-home-for-agms-hayneslocost-panels/

"All change at AGM Sportscars, with the company’s kit projects finding new homes. The very capable WLR is now under the control of Adrian Beale, the man who debuted a brand new Cobra replica at Stoneleigh this year.

Meanwhile, AGM’s Alan Whitehead is a gifted GRP laminator and also offered a range of panels to suit Locost and Haynes Roadster kits, gaining a great reputation for the quality of glassfibre.

That side of the business is now known as Al’s Locost Body Shop run by engineer, Ian Armitage, a close neighbour of AGM, located on the same industrial estate. The plan is to continue offering the panels, available either as a full package or as individual parts, but also to add extras to the pricelist, the sort of stuff that Locost and Haynes Roadster builders would find attractive.

Because of Ian’s engineering background and skill with metal, it’s no surprise to learn that a chassis package is under development as are wishbones. More information on this one soon.

Prices for GRP panel kits are very keen, with Locost bodykit at £620 and Haynes Roadster 10-piece ensemble at £750.

Don’t forget the place and the date you read this news item. First again…

A new website is under development but in the meantime you can find more information via the www.agmsportscars.co.uk or 07752 194 200 ENDS."

Oh here we go!
http://alsbodyshop.co.uk

[garyout]

Yea I agree with the black rims did you have any issues with bonnet clearing engine?

Gary

[CTWV50]

Yea I agree with the black rims did you have any issues with bonnet clearing engine?

Gary

Only issue I've had with both engines is the oil cap. It has a really thick rubber o-ring in it that I just remove and replace with something thinner. My engine is around 40-50mm lower than the chassis rails but so far not been an issue except for those really crappy speed bumps in carparks. My engine is quite far forward also due to the high up brake servo and cylinders.

[CTWV50]

OOOPS!!:eek:

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1531/25336741484_67ef83e320_b.jpg

Road got a bit bumpy!:D

[CTWV50]

In other news I got this years insurance renewed for the grand sum of £105! LOL!:D ;) :cool:

Down from £145

[CTWV50]

Keep forgetting to post this image I took last year.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1551/25340599273_62afc61ff9_b.jpg

[rpjg1975]

That's a bargain!!! They will be paying you if it keeps dropping like that!!

In other news I got this years insurance renewed for the grand sum of £105! LOL!:D ;) :cool:

Down from £145

[Ianr]

Which company are you with Chris? I think I'll give them a try

In other news I got this years insurance renewed for the grand sum of £105! LOL!:D ;) :cool:

Down from £145

[CTWV50]

Which company are you with Chris? I think I'll give them a try

Funnily enough, Adrian Flux rang me and strangely started putting me through to other companies to get a quote as I didn't have one and then would call me back after the quote. I really don't like Adrian Flux, just too pushy, anyway the first one didn't do my type of car so that call ended then AF rang me back and put me through to another company. This company quoted me £125 but I knew I could get it cheaper if I shopped around. So this guy knew AF had put me through so I said "I think AF are going to call me back after you've quoted and quote cheaper. I don't really want to pay more than £100 as I'm 45 hardly drive this car and it's kept in an alarmed highly secure garage with an immobiliser fitted, I've got no points and haven't been involved in any accidents, I think I'm a good bet. He went off to speak to his manager, as they do, came back with £105. I bit his hand off! :D

Company is called

Insurance Choice 01926 319 112

[SeriesLandy]

Ireally don't like Adrian Flux


Lol, sounds like me. They told me last year that I couldn't ring around. Then when I said I wanted to try a few other places he said "your wasting our time, don't bother ringing back next year"

Seems a good reason not to try them again.
£105 is bloody good tho so worth a try directly I think.

[Ianr]

Thanks Chris, I hadn't heard of them. I had an email from AF asking me to try them for a quote, I followed the link thinking they would quote on line but in the end it said we will ring with your quote. Nothing heard from them since and thats now over a month ago. I'll try your company :)

[CTWV50]

Update. Been out in the car every couple of weeks to a month. Full Throttle at all times, mainly to a local pub called The Scotch Piper where a load of people gather together every Monday night in all sorts of cars from American muscle to minis.

Wanting more laughs so due to the limited mileage I do I'm looking into some cheap mods for more power.

:LOL D :eek: :D (http://www.nitrous.info/index.htm)

https://www.facebook.com/classicalgaspump/

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8572/28251618930_24d5b57536_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

Finally got a new front number plate but need to mod it so the same fate does not befall it. :)

[twinturbo]

Update. Been out in the car every couple of weeks to a month. Full Throttle at all times, mainly to a local pub called The Scotch Piper where a load of people gather together every Monday night in all sorts of cars from American muscle to minis.

Wanting more laughs so due to the limited mileage I do I'm looking into some cheap mods for more power.

:LOL D :eek: :D (http://www.nitrous.info/index.htm)

https://www.facebook.com/classicalgaspump/

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8572/28251618930_24d5b57536_b.jpg

Thats an unusual looking Ambassador, the grill looks different.

[CTWV50]

Thats an unusual looking Ambassador, the grill looks different.

Yeah I think it was a rare model i'll ask my geek mate who had a big chat to him.

[CTWV50]

Hmmm, my car wouldn't start the other day then battery went flat. I must investigate. My insticnt is saying it'll be a loose wire or fuel pump issue. time to get the diagnostic led out again!:)