Chris's new build of an MX5 based car

[CTWV50]

OK I'm 40 years old and I'm bored! Bought the locost book 10 years ago and 2 years ago I bought the Haynes Roadster book. Always hated fords, sorry ford people, so was put off really, couldn't bare to buy a sierra donor, especially as people seem to think they are a classic these days!:confused: Also I was put off by the welding but I'm a big boy now so I reckon I can do it.:)

Currently in the process of cleaning out my tiny garage, getting rid of loads of junk, practicing welding and dreaming about the build, seriously!

I'm serious about doing this project, My last car project went way over budget (VW Corrado G60 2.0 litre 250bhp/235lbft) and when it was finished (read not a challenge anymore) I sold it! I was also skint which helped make the decision. I live 10 minutes from my own I.T. business so walk to work with my dog everyday and so this means I can build a roadster with the money I savve from not running a second car. My other car is a Volvo V50 R-Design 2.0D, lovely car (based on a ford :cough: ) but not too exciting.

So here I am and here is my Donor!

[minicountryman1961]

You do realize that Ford owns a major percentage of Mazda?

MX5 is a great donor, fits the concept of the Locost/Roadster/Lotus 7 perfectly. Good luck with your build!

OK I'm 40 years old and I'm bored! Bought the locost book 10 years ago and 2 years ago I bought the Haynes Roadster book. Always hated fords, sorry ford people, so was put off really, couldn't bare to buy a sierra donor, especially as people seem to think they are a classic these days!:confused: Also I was put off by the welding but I'm a big boy now so I reckon I can do it.:)

Currently in the process of cleaning out my tiny garage, getting rid of loads of junk, practicing welding and dreaming about the build, seriously!

I'm serious about doing this project, My last car project went way over budget (VW Corrado G60 2.0 litre 250bhp/235lbft) and when it was finished (read not a challenge anymore) I sold it! I was also skint which helped make the decision. I live 10 minutes from my own I.T. business so walk to work with my dog everyday and so this means I can build a roadster with the money I savve from not running a second car. My other car is a Volvo V50 R-Design 2.0D, lovely car (based on a ford :cough:) but not too exciting.

So here I am and here is my Donor!

http://gallery.me.com/christophertwatson/100060/Donor%20MX5/web.jpg?ver=13015906430001

[spud69]

All the best with the build CT, its a real shame to pull them apart that is a lovely looking donor but at the end of the day there are many thousands of them and its going to a better home....;)

All the Best....Andrew

[CTWV50]

It looks better than it is believe me, sills are about done!:)

[CTWV50]

You do realize that Ford owns a major percentage of Mazda?

MX5 is a great donor, fits the concept of the Locost/Roadster/Lotus 7 perfectly. Good luck with your build!

I do, I just refuse to pay good money for a Sierra! They should be free!:D

[deezee]

I do, I just refuse to pay good money for a Sierra! They should be free!:D

Your not buying a Sierra.... your investing in a Haynes Roadster :D

[mark]

Your not buying a Sierra.... your investing in a Haynes Roadster :D

Thats how i had to look at it when after 6months of no luck in finding a good donor i had to part with £350 for one :eek: :rolleyes: :D it was in supprisingly good nick though

If i wasnt building the roadster i wouldnt give you a tenner for a J reg sierra!

[twinturbo]

I have had a fair share of cars and have to say that the sierras have always been the best drivers cars out of all the cars I have owned.

I hated fords until I gog my first sapphy in 1994.

Had a Few VAG's and other FWD cars and find the battle of torque steer and axle tramp under acceleration to be a BIG turn off to the FWD idea. ( my daily is a Galaxy and it's sh...t off the line. )



TT

[CTWV50]

Yeah FWD VWs and audis, I've had a fair few, not great at getting off the line and not as reliable as people would have you think. Anyway back to the MX5, I can't believe they fitted an aluminium sump and a stainless steel exhaust manifold as standard, such a bonus, engine should be nice and lightweight, bye bye production car understeer!:D

I'm reading a book about the design/development of the MX5, weight was a massive deal, people were threatened if weight wasn't kept to a minimum. They even lightened the crank and flywheel compared to the 323 transverse engine it was based on allowing to rev to 7200rpm.

The Donor is a 1.6 1995 model but it isn't the later tweaked 90 bhp engine that was not available to buy till Nov 1995 and had a steel sump. Mines a May 1995 and has a B6 engine code. So if anyones looking to buy a 1995 mx5 check the engine code is the correct for the one your after and seeing as the emission test was tightened up for cars after August 1995 you may want to play safe with the earlier engine. The 90bhp engine code starts with BP. Had another nose under the engine bay today just before dark, the rad fan is only half the size of the radiator and looks like it will be suitable for the roadster if it can be made to attach to the polo radiator.

Signed up to mx5oc forum to get a seller thread going when I'm ready to break the car down.

Need to get the garage sorted first and get some welding practice in before building the build table. Took some measurement and if I keep the garage clear I should be able to keep the whole car in the garage when finished along with other essential garage belongings. I may need to sort a shed at some point though for the gardening tools. I digress...:rolleyes:

That is all goodnight.

[CTWV50]

If i wasnt building the roadster i wouldnt give you a tenner for a J reg sierra!

That made me smile!:D

[twinturbo]

Alloy sumps almost always weigh more than their pressed steel counterparts. the use much more material.

TT

[CTWV50]

Going to list some other details for my own reference as much as anything.

Engine dimensions 620 x 580 x 615
Bore Stroke 78.0 x 83.6
cc 1597
CR 9.4:1
Max Pwr @ 6500
Max Tqr @ 5500
IVO 5˚ BTDC
IVC 51˚ ABDC
EVO 53˚ BBDC
EVC 15˚ ATDC
Gearing 1st 3.136 2nd 1.888 3rd 1.330 4th 1.000 5th 0.814 R 3.758 FD 4.3

[CTWV50]

Two pages from the book about compactness and lightness......

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5310/5579524842_5c420e521f_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5579525068_5269cd82e3_b.jpg

[skov]

Great to see you've started a build thread, I'll be watching with interest!

You want to get signed up on the mx5nutz.com forum too, the OC forum is a bit of a graveyard nowadays...

[CTWV50]

Great to see you've started a build thread, I'll be watching with interest!

You want to get signed up on the mx5nutz.com forum too, the OC forum is a bit of a graveyard nowadays...

Will do thanks.

[CTWV50]

Main fuse arrived today! Got it started and warmed up on the drive, sounded great, alt. belt is very loose but took it for a spin on the neighbours farm track. It goes it stops and it made be smile, but it still has to die for my build!:D

Brakes were rubbish but it had been sat for two years, engine was fine other than the alt. belt, gearbox felt great, no whines or unusual noises so my mind is at ease!

[CTWV50]

OK I have rebuilt a new and improved workbench at the back of the garage with old fire-doors (my preferred method of building workbenches) vice is very handy and well lit, sealed the garage floor as the concrete is crappy and by 6pm on Sunday night I had started knocked up a new and improved shopping basket and walking stick attachment for my old dads mobility scooter which I finished at about 10:30pm, he was well impressed. My welding technique is improving but I now understand the importance of jigging and weld magnets, oh and big gas bottles! I bought a big hacksaw, new wire-brush and a round file today too. I want to paint the garage floor grey this week and get more practice in but on 25mm SHS.:) Oh and put up some halogens over the bench.

[CTWV50]

The last 24hrs have proved useful, discovered my hoard of retro gaming paraphernalia is worth a bob or two and will fund a good part of the build, it was cluttering up the garage! 2 birds, 1 stone, springs to mind. Just got to test and list the lot, which I'm not looking forward to.

This morning I went over to a steel fabrication company we do some IT work for and had a chat with owner and he's going to supply the steel and allow me to use some of their equipment for bending and cutting, he also gave me some great advice on cutting angles in steel using a mini-grinder, and using co2 rather than argon due to cost, argon only really necessary for stainless steel apparently. Got some 3mm 40mm SHS, 3mm plate and 5mm channel to mess around with, Might even have a go at the wishbones with their help. Very Happy!:D

[Bonzo]

Sounds like you are making some great progress towards the grand build start day :) :cool:

Ebay is certainly a great place to help top up the build pot.

Pleased to read that all is well with your donor, I know what a relief that must be :)

Eager to follow your progress :cool:

[CTWV50]

Cheers bonzo, determined to do this right, involve the kids and keep the financial cost impact on daily living to minimum. My other family pastime is horse riding and that does a good job of emptying the current account regularly!

[Bonzo]

Cheers bonzo, determined to do this right, involve the kids and keep the financial cost impact on daily living to minimum. My other family pastime is horse riding and that does a good job of emptying the current account regularly!

I can well imagine :)

That takes me back a bit, it's been a good few years since I was last on a horse .... Mind you, much the same as my motor cycle days, spent more time off em than on em :o :o :D

[CTWV50]

Nice to meet a fellow rider on here, I love riding horses the thrill at a gallop on the beach or jumping them cross country or even show jumping, it really does fill a void in my life. Motor bikes I have steered clear of because if I hadn't I doubt I'd be here to type this.:rolleyes:

[ozzy1]

horse.!mmm tasty!!

[Bonzo]

horse.!mmm tasty!!

What !!

Even more tasty than Roo :D :D

[ozzy1]

Roo just like beef just a bit stronger in flavour.:eek:

Apparently Australia the only country to eat the animal that is its national emblem!!!!!????????

[CTWV50]

The french will eat anything!

[HandyAndy]

Horse rider here too, had 2 of my own a few years ago, well 1 for me & 1 for the wife, hers was a good little , what I would call a "plodder" , a Welsh section "D", cracking "in Hand" show horse...

My own was a 16 hand Thoroughbred chestnut mare, & wow was she "flighty" :eek: a great show jumper, higher the better, she was great, used to turn her into the jump, she,d see it & her ears twitched as if to say "I see it, here we go" :eek: , i,d "give" her the reign & she,d jump it perfectly :cool: , tho I then would "take" the reign in mid flight, as otherwise we,d be off like a speed train once she,d landed :D .

I used to spend more money on horse shoes in a year than I,ve spent on shoes for myself in my lifetime LOL.

Tho, must agree, its a great feeling galloping flat out along a beach, its hard to describe, but , wow, took my breath away.

I also dabbled with motorbikes....used to race them for a team....ouch.

cheers
andy

[CTWV50]

Horse rider here too, had 2 of my own a few years ago, well 1 for me & 1 for the wife, hers was a good little , what I would call a "plodder" , a Welsh section "D", cracking "in Hand" show horse...

My own was a 16 hand Thoroughbred chestnut mare, & wow was she "flighty" :eek: a great show jumper, higher the better, she was great, used to turn her into the jump, she,d see it & her ears twitched as if to say "I see it, here we go" :eek: , i,d "give" her the reign & she,d jump it perfectly :cool: , tho I then would "take" the reign in mid flight, as otherwise we,d be off like a speed train once she,d landed.

I used to spend more money on horse shoes in a year than I,ve spent on shoes for myself in my lifetime

Tho, must agree, its a great feeling galloping flat out along a beach, its hard to describe, but , wow, took my breath away.

I also dabbled with motorbikes....used to race them for a team....ouch.

cheers
andy

Yes they aren't cheap and it's always nice to have a horse that enjoys their jumping, the one we have at the moment is inexperienced but a joy to jump and will hack out anywhere on his own. Such a good horse but expensive to run.

I know if i had ever got into bikes I'd of taken one too many risks as my confidence grew and would of ended up dead or in a wheel chair so I steer well clear.:eek:


Back to the build, I have sold a large portion of my retro gaming stuff in one sale and should have £500 cash burning a hole in my pocket by tomorrow morning. I have decided it will buy the steel for the chassis pay for a larger gas bottle and the build table and some much needed tools. So tempted to buy the chassis precut but doing a mazda (saturn design) build I have to wait for the drawings for the diff/tunnel sections.

[spud69]

Yes they aren't cheap and it's always nice to have a horse that enjoys their jumping, the one we have at the moment is inexperienced but a joy to jump and will hack out anywhere on his own. Such a good horse but expensive to run.

I know if i had ever got into bikes I'd of taken one too many risks as my confidence grew and would of ended up dead or in a wheel chair so I steer well clear.:eek:


Back to the build, I have sold a large portion of my retro gaming stuff in one sale and should have £500 cash burning a hole in my pocket by tomorrow morning. I have decided it will buy the steel for the chassis pay for a larger gas bottle and the build table and some much needed tools. So tempted to buy the chassis precut but doing a mazda (saturn design) build I have to wait for the drawings for the diff/tunnel sections.

Nearly Ready Chris,

Chassis will be rolling today with engine in and mounted, will also put up some new pics. I've spent a fair bit of time cadding it up this week but have a bit of a headache getting upto speed with google sketchup. Nearly there though. Will have the flat pack chassis kits ready soon as well as everything else.

Regards....Andrew

[skov]

95% of Saturn's MX5 chassis is identical to the book.
I started with one of Handy's standard flat pack kits, and have only had to change/replace a few parts for the MX5 version.
I'm sure if you talk to Handy nicely, he'll come up with a plan to get you started - he's been a great help for me :cool:
It'll save you countless hours starting with a pre-cut kit - well worth the small premium!

[CTWV50]

Great news Andrew, are your flat packs seamless tube or ERW? Don't want to sound dramatic but I'm putting my sons life in this car and I want to do the best by him. If bike frames are made with seamless surely a car frame should be made with seamless, or does the mount of steel used in conjunction with triangulation resolve this. Sorry just a bit worried about frame strength. Some one at the local suppliers said it would be a good idea to tig weld it for strength while someone else has suggested purging the tubes with inert gas to improve the internal weld strength. I'm sure some of the above is unnecessary but just need some reassurance really as to the details. The saying "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing!" springs to mind.

HELP!:o

Matt, I am so tempted to I really am. Can't imagine my son being to keen to help cut steel by hand/grinder.

[CTWV50]

OK so I gather seamless is pretty much unavailable after speaking to a few companies so I guess ERW is the only and a safe option. I guess the book meant "seamless" as in, you can't distinguish the seam externally? :shruggs:

[spud69]

Hi Chris,

Just seen your post, had visitors for last 2 hours - comes with the sun i suppose.....:)

The car is designed around ERW box section and as you say the triangulation gives it its strength. What HandyAndy does is to cut and put together the chassis packs in 2mm walled box, unless otherwise asked, which gives the frame a lot more strength and stiffness for not a great deal of extra weight.

Andrew

[CTWV50]

Thanks for the reply Andrew. I have decided that taking a chassis kit from HandyAndy would be my best option, it's a great price he's selling at considering how expensive steel is and the cost of equipment and time to cut it.

I have built my build table after flat planing many bent bits of scant and discovering quite how out of level my garage floor is.:rolleyes: So after many hours being quite particular I now have a perfectly flat and painted build table.

I started marking out but then stopped as I decided it would be easier to do when the steel has arrived although I did manage to get BR5, 6, 11, and 12 marked out and after checking diagonally I was maybe 0.6 mm out iirc! Which I thought was quite good.

I have spent most of the weekend either asleep or in the garage, that build table started to look very comfortable and inviting.:) Oh also this weekend I managed to knock the passenger side wing mirror off of my donor by letting the build table fall on it!:D Oooops!

[HandyAndy]

I have decided that taking a chassis kit from HandyAndy would be my best option, it's a great price he's selling at considering how expensive steel is and the cost of equipment and time to cut it.

I have built my build table after flat planing many bent bits of scant and discovering quite how out of level my garage floor is.:rolleyes: So after many hours being quite particular I now have a perfectly flat and painted build table.

I started marking out but then stopped as I decided it would be easier to do when the steel has arrived although I did manage to get BR5, 6, 11, and 12 marked out and after checking diagonally I was maybe 0.6 mm out iirc! Which I thought was quiet good.

I have spent most of the weekend either asleep or in the garage, that build table started to look very comfortable and inviting. Oh also this weekend I managed to knock the passenger side wing mirror off of my donor by letting the build table fall on it! Oooops!

Hi Chris,

Cheers for your kind words, with the amount of steel that I purchase it helps to keep the costs down :cool:

Nice work on marking out your build table so well, 0.6mm is barely the thickness of a fine tipped marker pen ;) , the time taken at the early stages will really benefit the build later on.

I,ll reply to your PM :)

cheers
andy

[CTWV50]

Nice work on marking out your build table so well, 0.6mm is barely the thickness of a fine tipped marker pen ;)

Ahh that's why it wasn't spot on, too fat a line.:D I'm joking!

These tools helped, iphone apps for your haynes build!


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4113/5609899791_3b2ff09566.jpg


http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5026/5610478274_6319a5da84.jpg

[CTWV50]

Well I never! Never buy those disposable 60 liter (950cc @60bar) halfords bottles of weld gas they are such a rip off! I have only bought one and it ran out very quickly. After a little bit of brain power I have worked out that you get.....wait for it.....at a gas flow of 10 liters/min.... a total of..............6 whole minutes of weld time!!!! I couldn't believe it! No wonder you can just throw away the bottles! Jesus!

Just got myself a 2,420 litre bottle (10.5 liter@230bar) with a proper reg and some 2 mm walled box for practice. Should keep me busy with 4 hours of trigger time! :)

[CTWV50]

This weekend I've managed to mark out my entire table, all modesty blocked out and decided to involve the children aged 4 and 7 by jacking up the mx5 on axle stands and removing all the wheels for cleaning, obviously I ended up finishing the job and my eldest decided he wanted the wheels painted gold, not my first choice for a red car but hey-ho!:D

[CTWV50]

Today I finished the house re-pointing (a nasty boring job) and other odd outstanding jobs. Don't want anything slowing me down once my steel arrives!!:cool:

Oh and found a dead half eaten rat in the garage! Now it's all clean and nice I guess they thought they'd have a bloody party! Literally! B'stard things!:mad:

[CTWV50]

One successfully 450mm narrowed mx5 seat. Once I'm happy with the recline angle, I'll remove the adjuster and use it as a template to make a 3mm plate bracket instead. Bit baggy on the base but hey it was free!:D Oh and it weighs only 9.5kg without all the extra brackets and gubbins.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5061/5679218859_d6d3dec9f9.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61313147@N08/5679218859/)
DSC00002 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61313147@N08/5679218859/) by CTWV50 (http://www.flickr.com/people/61313147@N08/), on Flickr

[skov]

One successfully 450mm narrowed mx5 seat. Once I'm happy with the recline angle, I'll remove the adjuster and use it as a template to make a 3mm plate bracket instead. Bit baggy on the base but hey it was free!:D Oh and it weighs only 9.5kg without all the extra brackets and gubbins.


Nice one. I did consider doing that myself, but decided I couldn't be ar5ed :D

[CTWV50]

I had nothing better to do yesterday!:(

[Cyberbeej]

One successfully 450mm narrowed mx5 seat. Once I'm happy with the recline angle, I'll remove the adjuster and use it as a template to make a 3mm plate bracket instead. Bit baggy on the base but hey it was free!:D Oh and it weighs only 9.5kg without all the extra brackets and gubbins.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5061/5679218859_d6d3dec9f9.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61313147@N08/5679218859/)
DSC00002 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/61313147@N08/5679218859/) by CTWV50 (http://www.flickr.com/people/61313147@N08/), on Flickr

How did you narrow the seats? got any pics? i'm considering this route as every seat i try i dont find comfy, mothers mx5 seats are very comfy so considering buying some mx5 seats to modify.

[CTWV50]

Well once you have removed all the brackets and runners and separated the back from the base you need to peel back the seat cover removing lots of little retainers. Now the foam is exposed get hold of your mothers/wifes/girlfriends sharpest serrated knife from the kitchen and start cutting the foam bolsters to size. After that it's a case of getting the seat covers to fit again. I managed to get the misses to sew the back one so it fitted snuggly but for the base I just pulled it as tight as possible and re-fixed it to the base metal using the runners and drilling small holes to reuse some of the retainers in different locations. A good strong pair of needle nose pliers is a must. I'm not worried that it looks a little baggy around the edges of the base as no one will be able to see that once fitted to the car. I didn't take any images but will when I get round to the other seat one afternoon when I'm bored.

Hardest Part?!?

Getting the missus to do a bit of sewing! ;)

[ginger nutter]

I have narrowed some corsa sport seats just need to get around to making some new covers for them, was a lot easier than i thought it was going to be and they were free :)

[minicountryman1961]

Hardest Part?!?

Getting the missus to do a bit of sewing! ;)

Friend of mine narrowed his MX5 seats, then had a shop redo the seat covers. It cost him $500 for the upholstery.

You owe your wife something nice! A fancy dinner perhaps?

[CTWV50]

Might try this!!! Useful how too!

http://automotive-concepts.blogspot.com/2011/02/mx5-seat-defoaming-extreme.html

yes the wife deserves a treat, if she does the other one too mind!:D

[CTWV50]

Mostly been selling mx5 bits and raised enough to order by wishbones from spud69. As I have been stripping the car I have been untaping the loom and cutting out all the unnecessary wiring for things like interior lights, heater, wipers, stereo etc. I've been watching "Victory by Design" on Discovery for the inspiration for screenless two seater cars!

It's funny when you start stripping a car for a roadster and you just laugh at how much stuff you really don't need to get from A-B and have fun!

Also been looking at aftermarket EMS and turbos oh and wheels, but fortunately have managed to avoid spending any of the, money I don't have, on things I don't need.

So pretty dull all in all but chassis kit, plate kit and wishbones should be here in a couple of weeks!:D

[CTWV50]

So again today I started on the P/S of the engine bay stripping back the loom and removing the unnecessary and separating the lighting loom from the engine loom to make reuse simplified.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5265/5723145279_7b7c601d75.jpg
Battery behind the Drivers seat fuel pump connection in the bckgrd.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5108/5723144169_35eda33ea9.jpg

Rear lighting loom.

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5123/5723698214_55fff98945.jpg

Front Passenger Lighting Loom.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2587/5723697100_4eb61f042f.jpgSee simplified!

[CTWV50]

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5723140975_1e5230e5d2.jpg

Err Everything Else!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3030/5723139815_8028dc5bc5.jpg
Err engine diags connector, lighting and horn relays, lighting resistor pack er I think!

After a day stripping back I plugged it all back in and rechecked the engine still worked before finishing for the day. Should be able to keep the immobiliser if it caries on going this well. Next item on the list the under dash fuse-board!

[skov]

That's far too methodical :)
I just ripped all the wiring out and figured I'd worry about it at a later date.
I suspect your approach will pay dividends later whilst I'm up to my eyeballs in tangled cables and impossible to understand wiring diagrams!

[CTWV50]

I don't have anything else to do at the moment so I can take my time.Worst thing about the mx5 loom is that they changed them every year it seems. I've only just got hold of the mazda dealer wiring diagrams for the 94 year from a friend which are brilliant at showing everything very clearly. The mx5 looms really are a rats nest.

This link is good too!

http://www.madracki.com/miata/

I'm starting to enjoy working on the loom now it's in the garage on the build table and I can see what is what!:)

[skov]

The wife's out for the day and I can't get out to the garage so I've currently got my loom spread out on the living room floor, lol
Thought I've have a go at identifying all the connectors. Wish I'd labelled them all before removing it from the car now!!!
Try this link for diagrams:
http://neomiata.com/garage/index.php?sort=size&path=Wiring%20Diagrams/Wiring%20Diagrams%201990-1996/
They're not the easiest to follow, but there's individual diagrams for each year.

[CTWV50]

Well the first thing I'd do if I were you, speaking from experience, is check all the ecu pinout wires and colours match your wiring diagram as I went through a few before I found my M reg 95 car had a 95' year rear loom and a 94' engine, front and interior loom!:rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

RAT'S NEST!

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5106/5767824504_4781e73125.jpg

[shh120m]

now that is exactly the reason i went with a bike engine! that would probably cause me to have a nervous breakdown:)

[CTWV50]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2153/5791057357_5b58e9c7ce.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5307/5791056637_2b217049cd.jpg

YES!!! The engine still works! I only made one mistake! I put the ignition live for the Fuel Pump Relay to a dead terminal rather than the relay. Once I had then hooked up another car to the battery to jump atart it as it was flat, and tightened a bad ground hey presto my loom still works without all the other stuff, including the immobiliser. I will wait till it's test fitted to the engine in the roadster before doing anything else to it. Time to put it in a box and forget about it happy in the knowledge it worked before I put it in the box and took the engine out!

[spud69]

Wiring loom ain't too bad, a lot of that can come out - neater than the sierra. Got ours fired up earlier in the week and it sounds sweet. Just need the prop and it's having it's first test drive of the suspension around our "private" estate. Just going to modify / shorten the prop for now.

Andrew

[CTWV50]

So I've decided like many that if I tacked the whole frame together I'd end up with a badly distorted frame when it came to fully welding it, with my limited welding skills, experience, potential for the table sagging under the weight and build space, I've decided to get the basic bottom rail frame fully welded and work out the distortion in it before continuing any further, I've learnt a lot doing this and now have an appreciation of weld procedure and heat management.

One thing I have found is that if you do get distortion that needs sorting, a good method is grind back the weld on the high side of the frame put a small V groove over the old weld and reweld. The heat generated doing this pulls the frame back in to shape and I now how a frame sitting pretty much level with minimal distortion. I'm a bit of a perfectionist and struggle to leave things if they aren't right but I'm happy with it.

A few more welds and a bit of tidying up and I should be ready to continue!:)

[skov]

Great to see you've made a start on the welding :cool:
Need to see some pics!

[CTWV50]

Got a good 8 hrs in the garage, many of which were spent swearing at the welder, but progress was made!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3634/5840219137_0f237d095f.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2510/5840220199_574bd3a520.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5262/5846583522_8f51c74704.jpg

[CTWV50]

We took it of the table once the FF was in place and took it for a test drive round the front garden! :D


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3169/5846031403_4003928b78.jpg

[skov]

Nice start :cool:

Not sure about your donor though, you might find it a bit underpowered :p

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5029/5846585964_310caf98db.jpg

[CTWV50]

Nice start :cool:

Not sure about your donor though, you might find it a bit underpowered

Cheers skov, yes I may boost the power with an engine at some point, child labour although cheap is probably illegal! Got my liner changed but it hasn't made much difference which is good to know I suppose, just means I have no excuses for crappy welds!

Been spending most of my time measuring, "Just off out to the garage for a bit of a measure dear!" You really do spend 90% of the time measuring. Couldn't figure how I was going to get an accurate 17˚ rake to the SB1s so I got out my protractor and spent 20 minutes making a template out of 3mm steel plate, also I have found computer hard drive magnets are excellent for holding the steels in place whilst tack welding. Got SB2 in place too and before moving on I fully welded all 3 in place and dressed the welds I have yet to fit the second inner pair of SB1s.

Even though I fully welded the BR frame, welding in the uprights caused the back of the BR frame to lift by 3mm so I had to spend some time using weld heat on the underside to bring it back down again.

Still enjoying the process. Which is why i wanted to do this project, driving it will just be a bonus.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3276/5869102620_e55898b462.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3251/5869103016_ed106e5c61.jpg

[CTWV50]

Pretty much at book figure 4.9 chassis stage but fully welded and today just picked up a 5kg reel or welding wire for £13.99 from halfords (rrp £19.99) as it had no bar code. Bonus! :D Needing another bottle of gas soon.

So glad I fully welded the bottom frame early on, the build table has sagged quite significantly with this heat.

[CTWV50]

Yesterday I sat in the Chassis on the driveway, I positioned myself in the back corner of the chassis (no tunnel obviously) and well, my right arm will be outside the vehicle, Can't imagine doing 100mph and being able to touch the ground, seems wierd!! :eek:

This morning I started cutting out the seat runner mounts from the mazda, straight through the fuel and brake lines, doh! Thinking of using the mounts in the build with the mx runners, I've noticed that the mx-5 has very similar cabin dimensions (length wise) to the haynes!!

[vmax1974]

Looking good so far bud will be rolling b4 long keep up the good work

[CTWV50]

Looking good so far bud will be rolling b4 long keep up the good work

Cheers mate. Hope to have it rolling before the winter.:)

[CTWV50]

Got my VIN through the post today from the Preston DVLA office with plenty of information on kit car registration! Looks like this office might know what it's doing. My tranny tunnel is tacked in and seat back rails in place. Guess I better get on with the diff cage soon.

[CTWV50]

I have a wheel fitted hurrah!:D

[spud69]

I have a wheel fitted hurrah!:D Many thanks for your help Andrew!

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6063/6139623667_2c044c2520.jpg

That's good Chris and nice to see.....:)

AndyH

[CTWV50]

It's coming along slowly, I only get about 6 hrs a week at weekends in the garage, but I have spent ages measuring, checking and getting the rear diff cage suspension brackets etc in the right place.

This weekend I'll test fit the diff and finish up on the back end less the rear tub mounting as I think I've changed my mind and will go with a fibreglass tub.

Then do some more full welding and put it on it's wheels, then I'll do the steering supports and spray the whole frame with u-pol weldthrough zinc primer.

Then see if I can't get it steering on it's wheels.:)

I do spend most of my time trying to figure out how I will organise the garage space at each stage of the build! It's doing my head in!!:mad:

[CTWV50]

Some recent progress shots....


http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/6838424418_606aef9a02.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6984552035_8107869946.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6838428770_4453e84005.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7198/6838427996_ca2283044a.jpg

[K4KEV]

Whats the secret of your eternal youth Chris?:D :D

[CTWV50]

Red wine! :)

[rdodger]

Looks great!

About the engine mounts. I am going to use the original mounts as you are but am thinking about the angle they sit and the compression of the rubber mounts.

If you weld/bolt them up without the weight of the engine on them will the rubber mounts not be under lateral load instead of compression?

In the mx5 the engine on it's mounts drops into the subframe like a wedge.

I thought I would have to tack them in position then fit the spacer to make sure they compress.

Am I on the right track with this or a complete nutter?

[CTWV50]

Thanks Dodger, I understand what you're saying. The other mount will have a slot in it, like the mazda subframe, so the engine can settle into place, I measured the angles on the mazda subframe pass side at about 50˚ and the the drivers 60˚. Measuring the distance between the mounts on the mazda subframe should resolve any other worries about lateral loads.

[rdodger]

Thats what I planned.

Unfortunately for me my engine sat too high on the standard mounts so have made new ones to lower it 50mm.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y216/dodger147/edit.jpg

Not a great pic I'm afraid.

This of course means the measurements I took from the MX5 won't help as I didn't make them the same as the OE ones :(

[CTWV50]

I lowered my engine around 40mm and shifted it to the pass. side too. Finished the other mount today. Tomorrow I may put it on wheels and see where I'm at. :)

[skov]

Looking good Chris!
I'm liking the engine mounts :cool:

[CTWV50]

So the second engine mount is done, very pleased with it too.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7044/6848096240_a358d7e966.jpg

Got the front end on too....

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6848097480_51a6b2d934.jpg

went together really well, yet to add the rack and I got it off the table.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/6994221467_45495aac84.jpg

Forgot to take a picture before putting everything away but this will do for now.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7176/6848109824_d1a5a261eb.jpg

Hip Hip Horay!!!!

BUT!

I did hit a bit of a problem. I'm not sure how much of a pain it will be to fix but basically I could only fit the rear pass side hub to the wishbones by putting about 10˚ of camber into it. Seems the driveshaft (halfshaft) is pushing the the hub too far out. also noticed that when lifting the hub it was stopped from travelling up by the driveshaft which then bounced the other hub up so something is not right. Seems I may need to think about moving the diff slightly. Took loads of measurements to see where I went wrong but can't real account for this issue using measurements alone!

[skov]

Have you got the driveshafts on the correct sides?
I think one might be longer than the other.

[CTWV50]

I thought that but I couldn't get the driveshaft out of the passenger side hub so it has to be the correct one! It's weird! Hmm my diff has push fit driveshafts maybe there is some sort of difference about them that may require a slightly different mounting of the diff. I've scrutinised the frame, it's a few mm out here and there but not enough to cause this surely??

[Davidbolam]

Do your driveshafts sit exactly in a straight line. My driveshafts angle forwards very slightly.

[CTWV50]

Ok just been out and measured the driveshafts and the passenger-side is 15mm longer than the driver-side the diff is mounted centrally in the vehicle so this would cause the issue I'm seeing. Can someone explain to me why one driveshaft is longer than the other. The diff also mounted centrally in the mx5 subframe as well so why the different lengths?:confused:

[Davidbolam]

I think the output flange on the dif is longer on one side than the other.

[CTWV50]

Mine are the later push fit driveshafts. they don't have a flange. I'm confused! I think I'll sleep on it maybe tomorrow I'll be more intelligent.:rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

It worked! I'm now more intelligent. Went out to the garage first thing.....

Drivers side outer CV....

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7250/6996276787_bca9ec891b.jpg

Wishbone adjustment....

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6212/6850152480_31710081fc.jpg

Passenger side outer CV....

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7195/6850153578_e9f0ebaed4.jpg

Wishbone adjustment....

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6240/6850152902_5d12613c18.jpg

Seems the passenger side outer CV isn't fully home in the yoke for some reason making the driveshaft longer.

I will resolve tonight.

[CTWV50]

Do your driveshafts sit exactly in a straight line. My driveshafts angle forwards very slightly.

Sorry missed this, yes they angle forwards.

[Johno]

Hi Chris,
Thats strange one side being longer than the other... :confused:
My friend at work has the same diff with push in splines but we hadn't noticed they were different. I will have a look in the morning and see if we can mount his rear suspension and diff. If you do need new rear tops just let me know as I still have pipe left over.

Johno

[CTWV50]

Well there you go. Never seen that before! Actually something similar happened 20 years ago with my old Talbot Alpine but I can't even remember what, something to do with the dished washer, I digress...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7082/6997895561_33439b8f1b.jpg

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6218/6851771768_722cb1c903.jpg

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6050/6997897183_b1816ee519.jpg

A nice picture earlier today of my dog with the car in the background.

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6032/6851770034_2303abf8d3.jpg

Thanks for the reply John and the offer, nice to know those upper wishbones are available if I find the car is crabbing when it's finished. :-)

How much would they be out of curiosity?

[CTWV50]

Oh BTW the car now has a square even back end.:D

[Johno]

Hi Chris,
As a fellow MX5 builder just cost of material and one day I might need a favour...lol.:D
Glad to know you got it sorted...

Johno

[CTWV50]

That's very generous John. Hopefully I won't need them fingers crossed.

[CTWV50]

So here we have it out of the garage. Mate came round to help move the mx5 shell out the way. So we got out and took lots of pictures.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7128/6863185570_ba5e1f5a2c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7117/6863186228_4df5b7a801.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/6863186802_5f64ae86f8.jpg

Tomorrow is great weather here so I'm laying turf and a pathway.:mad:

Sunday I'm going to start on the floor I think. :-))

[Davidbolam]

that is looking fab. really enjoy looking at the pictures.

[CTWV50]

Glad you like them it was funny messing around.:D

[CTWV50]

I'm lowering the floor on my build, like the westfield mx-5 donor kit car, and have decided to use the side of the lowered floor to run the fuel and brake pipes, I know it they will be close to the road in this position but it makes life easier. I won't be using the car for speed bump surfing. :D Progress pics so far...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/7022210799_875d1681a5_b.jpg

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6044/7022212333_6cde5f13d8_b.jpg

http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6035/6876108982_3b2b37e8b6_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

More progress on the floor this weekend.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7209/6894020314_31002fba66_b.jpg

Mx-5 seating position is good but it will have to go in as two separate halves with the back attached directly to the tub back.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7126/6894021320_3511892127_b.jpg

Need to make some runners for the base to hold it at this angle.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7078/6894022320_8e38226cbf_b.jpg

From above

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7064/6894023332_9104f0e05d_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

And tonight I'm nosing ahead.:D Nose cone and wing seconds from Nathan at NTS arrived today. Cheers Nathan.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/7046319015_22e84e0d8f_b.jpg

[Johno]

Looks like your'e making some cracking progress there Chris.:cool:

It's always nice to see ppl doing their own thing and coming up with new ideas.:D
I guess you are planning to use the MX5 brake/clutch and go faster pedal assembly by the look of it. Looking forward to see how that pans out..

Well keep posting piccy's ....Johno

[CTWV50]

Thanks Johno those words will keep me motivated for another 3 months!:D With regard to the pedals it's really down to money but it would be cool for other people who come along to know it is possible to keep them albeit modified somewhat. If it don't pan out it's no big deal at this stage.

[CTWV50]

Currently suffering from "Paralysis by Analysis" since I made the seat runners and tacked them to the floor. All of a sudden there are loads of interesting things to think about and position. So ultimately I have managed to half do about 5 different things. Like seat back/headrest positioning (IVA), Prop cut and in place, handbrake cables and bracket hacked out of the donor and half positioned, belt mount positions thought about, bonnet options considered. I start one job and end up doing another. And seem to spend most of my time just thinking about stuff. I need to make a critical path!:) I guess this is the best bit when you stop using the book to build the car and it becomes your creation!

Oh I put the pedals back in yesterday and it seems I don't need to do anything with the throttle cable as it just refitted to the engine and worked fine! Bonus. Looks like I can get the handbrake where i want it too and clear the prop and as a bonus don't have to chop up the cables.

[alga]

Thinking about stuff, I can relate to that! But it seems that all that thinking is not time wasted, somehow implemented solutions materialise with time out of all that thinking. Same with tinkering with whatever takes your fancy on a given moment. If you keep doing that, the car will be finished eventually.

[CTWV50]

Thinking about stuff, I can relate to that! But it seems that all that thinking is not time wasted, somehow implemented solutions materialise with time out of all that thinking. Same with tinkering with whatever takes your fancy on a given moment. If you keep doing that, the car will be finished eventually.

Thanks Albert, I was starting to think I had hit a barrier but you're right, the simplest solutions do come with time and tinkering? :-))

[HandyAndy]

I can remember those moments too:confused:

Then there are times when you think to yourself "its finished"............but then find something else that needs doing :eek: :D

The "to do" list does eventually get smaller until the point where you think to yourself....I,ll just check this & that to make sure .

cheers
andy

[CTWV50]

Cheers Andy. :) Tonight I had a break from thinking and stripped down the two front brake calipers as the donors brakes were quite frankly non existent, and boy was I right too the pitting to the pistons is really quite bad I will need to replace the pistons. I know a place that will acid dip and plate the calipers and carriers for free and then I'll rebuild them. It'll be a lot cheaper than replacements. Not sure if I'm brave enough to do the rears they look a little more involved.

[Davidbolam]

If you look on ebay you can get mx5 reconditioned ones for about £44. I am sure i got £15 from mwd ltd. When you look at the cost of the kits to recon them yourself I figured it was best to get someone else to do it.

David

[CTWV50]

I definitely need one rear so I'll get that of ebay. Refurbing the fronts will cost £30 and I'll have nice clean carriers too. If I couldn't get the plating done for free then yes, ebay it would be for the lot. Hopefully looking at about £120 to get all the callipers sorted.:)

EDIT: Oh hang on looks like you're right, seal kit and pistons for the front is £45 plus del and you can get em on ebay for £53 delivered. Oh well some more disassembled metal to weigh in then!

[Davidbolam]

sell the old calipers on ebay!!

[CTWV50]

I'm ignoring my caliper dilemma for the mo!

Tonight I mounted the handbrake and plates in there final position. Just tacked in place for now but I love it in this position for impromptu reverse handbrake turns! I have practiced it loads in the garage.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7249/7068884477_9a75666fdd_b.jpg

Right up against the drivers-side (marked passenger side just to confuse) tunnel rail.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5324/6922805014_d11c1ba172_b.jpg

With the gear stick in reverse there's still plenty of clearance.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7128/6922807458_588593f024_b.jpg

Clears the the prop nicely too.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5072/7068889703_87b6230715_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

My Securon 4 point seatbelt harnesses and this bonnett vent turned up today. I'm making my own bonnett so this will be my bonnett buldge. It attaches with double sided license plate stuff. When it turned up it was scratched and badly finished so I negotiaited a 50% discount. Not bad for £15.:)

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5449/6924587738_97f699058e.jpg

[CTWV50]

At the weekend I cut the handbrake bracket from the donor and flipped it upside-down and tacked it in place.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5323/6944545160_dc21961a54_b.jpg

It's handy to use the donor bracket upside-down as it is angled nicely for the position of the handbrake.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7262/6944545936_4c6a3a07b3_b.jpg

Cable running in it's guide.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7219/7090617053_8e1c97803d_b.jpg

From above.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7242/7090617641_eb50b09be8_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

7/16 threaded nuts spot welded into a chassis tube.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7200/7090620315_99c9878958_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7243/6944551540_65e11198a0_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5466/7090622765_7b9014deb2_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5316/6944550222_2ab8cb6744_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

OK so once again I'm going off plan and mounting the seat upper anchor points on the rear suspension towers. Obviously I'll be making a modified rear tube to accommodate this change. This position was only possible as a by-product of lowering the floor 40mm and using modified MX-5 seat base and home made runners/brackets.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7074/6946894678_425dc29298_b.jpg

Any comments on IVA compliance strength wise. Obviously it's only tacked in at the moment. I was thinking maybe I should put in some bracing from the inner anchor points down to the upper-back of the diff cage.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6946895690_b81316aca2_b.jpg

Sits nicely over the shoulder without touching the headrest.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7056/7092967075_421d997d5a_b.jpg

Dodgey pictures taken by over excited 8 1/2 year old son at 9:45 at night.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5036/6946896876_07dfb1769e_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

Here are some better images of the seat runners made from 50x100x3mm RHS. Not sure if these open channels will need strengthening but it is 3mm steel bolted to a steel seat and a steel floor through 4mm plate so probably not.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7095/7092996085_6282968bb3_b.jpg

Zip ties hold the seat down in position after defoaming the base for a lower sitting position.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7231/6946926048_c236459ef7_b.jpg

Well that's the steering wheel positioned, and for my next trick...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7063/6946927166_b5feedaf3e_b.jpg

It's hanging from various parts of the garage by weld wire! The things you find yourself doing late at night!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7229/7092999381_b803b997c3_b.jpg

[HandyAndy]

Nice progress pics there :cool:

I might be wrong ( sorry if I am ) but from the photo your upper harness mounting points appear quite low in relation to your shoulders, maybe its just the angle of the photo but was just something that caught my eye .
The seat belt anchorage is quite in depth from the IVA manual, They use a small block placed on the seat base then work from a fixed measurement from that, might be worth double checking sections 19 & 31 from the IVA manual.

Again...just my opinion but unless you have very short arms:o then the steering wheel looks close to your body, have you tried that position with the scuttle fitted yet ?

keep the progress pics coming, its looking great :cool:

cheers
andy

[CTWV50]

Hi Andy, it's ok the anchor points are around 470mm above the distance piece I made special. :-) Yeah the SW location is work in progress. I do prefer a SW close to me but it maybe a little too close.

[CTWV50]

Got paranoid about the height of the seat belt upper mounts so did some checking.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7248/7093001305_6d1bcbee8a_b.jpg

Mine runs down from my shoulders at about 30 deg.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/6966245176_82df4a6b7b_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7243/7112322117_a9d81cf4a2_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7219/6966246364_e8ee8fc857_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7237/7112323841_9ca52c9e1d_b.jpg

Distance piece not touching bottom of rule just to be sure.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7087/6966245954_358a0ffa88_b.jpg

Rolled it out at the weekend with steering supports tacked in place. Managed to get the upper column to run between the clutch and brake pedals below that troublesome top rail.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8014/6966248048_db9561b4fa_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5467/6966248664_fc86000309_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7082/7112326547_fc1f23e5e3_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5349/6966250492_759dd1b428_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7247/6966254286_cc5756350b_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7110/6966256122_7075af883b_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

Last night I thought I'd have a go at modifying/completely remaking the exhaust. Well impressed with myself after an hour an half sweating.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7055/7112334093_6bbb0699cd_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7225/6966258122_1e2de786c7_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5320/7112335127_ef227ac9d0_b.jpg

To be continued tonight!!:)

[michael92]

nice progress mate :) look forward to seeing your exhaust after you have done :) I love chooobs :p

[CTWV50]

Will do Micheal, I like pipes too! I thought that section of the exhaust was stainless but it just seems to be really good quality steel and welded fine with the gas and wire I used for the rest of the car.

[CTWV50]

Other than momentarily setting myself on fire....

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8168/7005881266_4f6746e148_b.jpg

I've been saving up for suspension and a proper exhaust silencer....

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/7%22_Stainless_Steel_Silencer_SIL7

But in the meantime I welded up a temporary exhaust.....

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/6978689764_44f834555b_b.jpg

When I'd finished it I couldn't stop laughing every time I looked at it. I'll keep the first bit and bin the rest. lol

This weekend I mounted the radiator...

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5449/7005882404_5c120a8bde_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7239/7005883396_594dc1e216_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

MX5 rad fan fits perfectly to the mk2 polo radiator with slight modifications to it.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7048/7151973431_335418dae7_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5312/7151978799_32245cb27f_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5321/7005888720_9a28b60ce4_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5120/7151976417_e778381029_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7124/7005886718_c40295d75b_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7185/7005886076_aca79775bd_b.jpg

Nosecone brackets and homemade spring clips.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5455/7005900122_45ea926dd9_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7093/7005890898_32dc92c106_b.jpg

nose cone just slides on, it just needs drilling and some captive nuts for some round headed bolts coming up from underneath.

[ayjay]

Great---Ive just been trying to think how to locate the nose cone--thanks:D

[shh120m]

hi chris,

some good progress there, you might want to trim 25mm or so off each end of the tube youve used for the seatbelt anchorages so that it clears your rear tub.

[CTWV50]

Hi Nathan, not sure if I'm buying or making the rear tub yet. Don't suppose you could sell me a cheap scuttle to post over with that aeroscreen and mx5 track extensions you are doing for me?:)

[shh120m]

Ill stick an old black one in the post with other bits foc, its off my first build thats in bits and is probably going to stay in bits. Its got a patch a couple of inches wide on the right side that was dulled with the da when noel polished it in a hurry, just needs rubbing with some 1200 and then polishing again.

[Johno]

Hi Chris,
You don't like waisting anything do you...;)
You just keep coming up with new ideas and I think "why didn't I do that"...
Honestly mate top notch.

Keep up the good work....Johno:D

[CTWV50]

Ill stick an old black one in the post with other bits foc, its off my first build thats in bits and is probably going to stay in bits. Its got a patch a couple of inches wide on the right side that was dulled with the da when noel polished it in a hurry, just needs rubbing with some 1200 and then polishing again.

Cheers Nathan that's very generous indeed.:) You're a top bloke.:cool:

[CTWV50]

Hi Chris,
You don't like waisting anything do you...;)
You just keep coming up with new ideas and I think "why didn't I do that"...
Honestly mate top notch.

Keep up the good work....Johno:D

Haha, No I don't like wasting anything, how did you know! :D Always been a bit of a hoarder which makes it difficult to keep an empty garage. I have a little over the garage door attic space and I still have stuff up there from a Mk2 Golf I haven't owned one of them for 10 years.

Thanks for the compliment though, made my day. Now if I just had your superb fabrication skills I'd be a happy man.:cool:

[CTWV50]

Great---Ive just been trying to think how to locate the nose cone--thanks:D

Glad to be of help.:)

[CTWV50]

All the suspension bits arrived today...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/7199584126_b35271c1bf_b.jpg

Not as pretty as the protechs but I'm happy with them for the money.

Plenty of adjustment there and if the suspension is set with the wishbones level there's about an inch of body thread still available but if you lowered it that much there wouldn't be much shock movement available before the bump stop so you'd be firming up the damping to the max. Which as far as I can tell would give you very little suspension. Plus my arse and engine sump would be about 2 inches from the tarmac.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8021/7199585170_75b9421b10_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7073/7199588464_33a7f94e6a_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7238/7199587386_0a9c43ea11_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

The back shocks and springs went on so easy and I can adjust the damping from the drivers seat! Made me laugh!:D

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7199589374_61cb449125_b.jpg

Bit high atm.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7090/7199590228_e6a6705019_b.jpg

Looking a little more car like.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5159/7199591376_937513fee0_b.jpg

[Johno]

I bet you had a big grin on yer face when you put them bad boys on...:D

Cars really taking shape now Chris, so what's next?
I guess by the look of it you plan to mount your harness to the top of the seat rail is that what the extra box is for? I believe there is a certain measurement from the base of the seat to the mounting point for the top harness fixings. Also if you go that route are you planning to ommit the rear diagonal braces to the roll bar as they are no longer required.
Well by the looks of it you have a couple of extra hands to help out...LOL:)
or are they quality control?.....

Well Chris keep coming up with new Ideas and don't waste anything ...;)

Johno

[CTWV50]

I bet you had a big grin on yer face when you put them bad boys on...

Yes I did, whilst jumping up and down on the chassis like a crazy baffoon or is that babboon .

Cars really taking shape now Chris, so what's next?

Well your guess is as good as mine, I tend to just wonder out to the garage and randomly start working on something. Seems to work well, certainly keeps things interesting.

I guess by the look of it you plan to mount your harness to the top of the seat rail is that what the extra box is for? I believe there is a certain measurement from the base of the seat to the mounting point for the top harness fixings.

Got it covered, lowered floor and modified mx5 seats have allowed the lower mounting points. (see a few thread pages ago.)

Also if you go that route are you planning to ommit the rear diagonal braces to the roll bar as they are no longer required.

Well I'm going to put in an 'X' brace just to be sure I think. I don't mind going bald but I'd like to keep the skin.

Well by the looks of it you have a couple of extra hands to help out...LOL:) or are they quality control?.....

Mmmm I'm pretty sure this car would be finished if it weren't for the 'quality control department'. Eldest son spent the first year looking at me like I was mad and saying things like "Is this car actually going to work?"!! He was won over when the seat, steering and harness went in, finally. :rolleyes:

Well Chris keep coming up with new Ideas and don't waste anything ...;)


Johno you're going to love this next post!!:D

[CTWV50]

Ever wondered what to do with knackered caliper pistons and an office chair?

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5459/7240712104_bf84d9fd72_b.jpg

LOL!!!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7240710338_f50e7cbf74_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7076/7240708470_dcfcde4581_b.jpg

I think I'm enjoying myself too much with this reuse, reduce, recycle thing.

[CTWV50]

Horns and indicators mounted...


http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5155/7240705214_ea250256e2_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7085/7240706008_31de5971e9_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7089/7240706798_a0b13772b4_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7214/7240707614_4264da9ca1_b.jpg

Oh the indicators are from my dad's old mobility scooter! I just can't help myself. lol

[Johno]

Chris your'e a bad bad man...lol:D
Hope the scooter was SORNed..lol:)
Which vehicle are you using as the donor vehicle...:rolleyes:
Seriously good work there buddy looking forward to your next recycling project... I bet you got "The Good Life on DVD"...:D

Epic build (my son taught me that) Chris

Keep up the good work,

Johno

[CTWV50]

CHeers for commenting Johno. My dad doesn't indicate much, bit of a mobility scooter rebel!

See this....

http://www.is-us.co.uk/pictures/bicycle-trailer/index-bicycle-trailer-4620j.jpg

Well I turned it into this....

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7236/7380329788_ddf98f2e4a_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5320/7380331396_18910ac111_b.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5468/7380332988_70da14793e_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7227/7380335020_95762f0a3e_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8144/7380337132_47cfee122a_b.jpg

Got my clocks in position...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7380338580_03a734defb_b.jpg

And the cowl...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7085/7380342340_119ca14413_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

Finally put the last bits of the chassis on for the tank...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7215/7380339864_ff757e62d4_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7211/7380341130_9040789e7a_b.jpg

The back end will be removable by undoing 6 bolts, I wanted easy access to the rear for when I need to make setup changes or replace by diff mounts!! :eek:

Oh I've refurbed the brakes but no pictures. Forgot and they are tucked away now. Managed to get a big red refurb kit for the front brakes and new chromed pistons for £30 each. backs where £15 each no pistons needed. £90 all in, not bad.

[skov]

Nice work Chris :cool:
I'm loving all your creative little detours from the book. Keep em coming!

[CTWV50]

Cheers John. You'll have to update your build thread soon. Been keeping an eye on you on google images! :)

[skov]

Cheers John. You'll have to update your build thread soon. Been keeping an eye on you on google images! :)

I need to make some progress before I can update my thread!
My build's been a bit slow of late... :rolleyes:

[CTWV50]

I need to make some progress before I can update my thread!
My build's been a bit slow of late... :rolleyes:

Don't tell me.... New house, new baby and DIY??

[Johno]

Hi Chris,
That's a goo idea with the rear top tube:cool: I guess you intend to sheet the rear in ally and that will work out nice around the wheel arch area as it can all be in one piece.
Gonna pick your'e brains now, did you lower the floor to get over the top harness anchorage points to be within IVA measurements as I'm looking to have no rear stays on my rollbar and weld spacers on my top seat rail to gain height?
I see you're prop has been shortened, did you do this yourself and if so where? Also I guess you measured between the gear box ouput and diff flange and made the prop a bit shorter? by how much shorter do you make it?

Regarding you instrument cluster now...:D
I also intend to use the original Mazda panel but the only set back I have at the moment is the speedo cable.
Anybody using the mechanical speedo drive will have problems in the transmission tunnel with the radius being too tight from the gearbox. I have read Westfields only lasting a few miles before the cable breaking on their Mazda builds.
I believe there is a TOYOTA 90 degree adapter that will fit the Mazda gearbox to get over this but dammed if I can source the part...:mad:
What do you intend to do?

Really like what you are doing with the build Chris...

Johno

[CTWV50]

Hi Johno, glad you like it. Thought people would hate it. Just quickly though before I get to the computer tonight. Does the speedo cable have to go down the tunnel can't it come into the footwell and then go back out, through the floor in your case and under the car. Was messing around with the dash when I read your post. And thought I'd have a play with the speedo cable. Hadn't really give it much thought before, thought it would be the last thing to give me a problem.:)

Edit forgot to say a small panel could cover the offending cable!

[CTWV50]

Hi Chris,
That's a goo idea with the rear top tube:cool: I guess you intend to sheet the rear in ally and that will work out nice around the wheel arch area as it can all be in one piece.

Yeah I'll sheet it in ally but then integrate some chopped up rear arches made of fibreglass somehow.:confused:


Gonna pick your'e brains now, did you lower the floor to get over the top harness anchorage points to be within IVA measurements as I'm looking to have no rear stays on my rollbar and weld spacers on my top seat rail to gain height?

I lowered the floor so I felt like I was sitting "on it" and not "in it", with comfy seats I felt I was sat too high. The seat belt mounting was a bonus as was being able to run the steering column under that cross member and not over, using the original pedal box and the clocks fitting under the scuttle. It's worked out well and as the engine has to lowered 40mm it seemed a reasonable choice to lower the floor.


I see you're prop has been shortened, did you do this yourself and if so where? Also I guess you measured between the gear box ouput and diff flange and made the prop a bit shorter? by how much shorter do you make it?

You know that props not welded or anything I had some tube that fitted inside it so I used it to just mock it up had to cut it a few time to get it right. I'll tack it before removing it and taking it to the professional to be remade and balanced. I know a place local I've done work for in the past see if they can sort me out.
I don't know how much I removed but my engine is probably a little further forwards than yours to clear the standard pedal box.


Regarding you instrument cluster now...:D
I also intend to use the original Mazda panel but the only set back I have at the moment is the speedo cable.
Anybody using the mechanical speedo drive will have problems in the transmission tunnel with the radius being too tight from the gearbox. I have read Westfields only lasting a few miles before the cable breaking on their Mazda builds.
I believe there is a TOYOTA 90 degree adapter that will fit the Mazda gearbox to get over this but dammed if I can source the part...
What do you intend to do?

As I say I'll probably take it into the foot well and make a cover for it but if you can find that part it would be a better option. I know john (skov) has used a mk2 electrical speed sender but i think you'd have to use mk2 clocks and I'm not sure how complicated that would be. Ecu want to know what speed your going as well which the mk1 instrument cluster relays to the ecu.


Really like what you are doing with the build Chris...

Johno


Cheers Johno, I like yours too but it hurts my eyes to look at your thread.:cool:

[Johno]

Hi Chris,
Yeah sorry about my photo's, paint schemes a bit loud to say the least...:D
No reason why people shouldn't like your build as you've got some really good ideas there.

In hindsight I wish I spent a bit more time up front sorting stuff out instead of just ploughing in like I have... :o
It really pays to look at what others have done and have a choice of what you can do with the build.

Regarding the Westfield builds and their problem with the mechanical drive for the speedo I've found this...

Those of you who used a NA (Mk1) donor, will have found that the speedo cable makes a very sharp bend at the transmission. Every single car that I know of ended up with a broken cable because of this. The only solution is to make a hole in the body to feed the cable through or use the NB (Mk2) cluster with its electrical drive gear (it’s a direct swap against the mechanical drive gear).

However, there is a much easier solution. The mazda gearbox has a metric M22-1.5 thread as do old 80′s and 90′s Toyota’s. Most (all?) RWD Toyota’s used a 90° angled drive to prevent this problem. The part is a straight fit for the Mazda transmission!

The original Toyota P/N is 83770-30070 and it is meanwhile superceeded by P/N 83770-22100.


http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/MX5%20Build/angledrive2.jpg

http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa472/JohnoSS1/MX5%20Build/angledrive.jpg

Simon phoned up Toyota today and you can still get this part for £73. I know it's expensive but it's a lot cheaper than replacing the cable every 25 miles...LOL

Hope this helps..... Johno

[Davidbolam]

Chris,

How many fuel pumps are you planning to use on your car. Are you going to use on your car. Are you just using the one from insie the tank or will you add an extra one?

Thanks

David

[CTWV50]

Wow £73!!:eek: don't you just love dealers! I'll be taking mine into the foot well.:D Great info through Johno you should put that info in a new thread for easy finding by others in the future.

It's not your paint scheme Johno it's cos it's so clean!.:)

I'll be a little bit sad when my cars finished cos I'm enjoying building it so much so I'm taking my time on purpose and faffing about a lot. I've always wanted to build my own car so putting my own ideas in there is more important to me than building a recognisable Haynes Roadster.

Hi David, well I was going to run the standard fuel pump but I do have an in tank bosch pump from a Mercedes ML320 which is cable of providing enough fuel for a 3 litre engine. I was only going to use it when I decided to push for more bhp one way or another. Why do you think you need more than one fuel pump?

[CTWV50]

Just Ordered!

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/7%22_Stainless_Steel_Silencer_SIL7

I'm shaking and sweating after spending so much scraped together paypal tokens on that bad boy!!:( At least my car will be fairly quiet, and look good on the right hand side!:D

[K4KEV]

Just Ordered!

http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/product/7%22_Stainless_Steel_Silencer_SIL7

I'm shaking and sweating after spending so much scraped together paypal tokens on that bad boy!!:( At least my car will be fairly quiet, and look good on the right hand side!:D

OOOOOWWWCCCCCHHHHHHHHH:eek: :eek:
wowser ....bet that stung

[CTWV50]

OOOOOWWWCCCCCHHHHHHHHH:eek: :eek:
wowser ....bet that stung

Well yes it did. I really struggled to hit the "paynow" button! But it's such a crucial thing in my mind. I tried welding bits of exhaust together like the book says and quite frankly it looked awful and made me laugh every time I looked at it, AND, I've had noisy exhausts on cars before and it was just horrible to drive, you have to be 12 years old to enjoy that kind of din!

[ozzy1]

The original Toyota P/N is 83770-30070 and it is meanwhile superceeded by P/N 83770-22100.

There is a guy at my car club sells these for $25 each,i dont know if he has many left though but could find out.

[CTWV50]

There is a guy at my car club sells these for $25 each,i dont know if he has many left though but could find out.

Yes please!:)

[Davidbolam]

Please can you see if he has two :)

[chrisponter]

I'd be interested aswell if he has enough :)

[ozzy1]

I will give him a ring tomorrow and see how many he has left.

[Johno]

Hi Ozzy1,
I guess Toyota's are popular down your'e way. I haven't actually ordered this part yet but would be interested if he has any to part with... :)

Johno

[PorkChop]

I would be very interested in buying one as well Ozzy.

[chrisponter]

Just found a breakers which specialise in Toyotas, sent them an email and they will sell what they call a 'good condition second hand one' for £18 plus VAT, that includes delivery.

http://www.tcbparts.co.uk/

Not on the site as far as I can tell.

[ozzy1]

I have left him a message and asked how many he has.I have asked for 4 and just waiting for a reply.As soon as i know i will post the reply.

[ozzy1]

Ok got the info. These are second hand but very good condition only downside is he only has 1 left. I think Ctwv50 was first off the mark so first choice has to go to him if interested.

[CTWV50]

Ok got the info. These are second hand but very good condition only downside is he only has 1 left. I think Ctwv50 was first off the mark so first choice has to go to him if interested.

Is paypal ok? Let me know how much and who to and I'll paypal over assuming the postage isn't ridiculous.:) Thanks Ozzy!

[CTWV50]

So my enormous exhaust silencer arrived earlier this week. So I've spent most of this week's evenings messing around with sketchup trying to learn how to use it and figure out an exhaust. It's been a really useful exercise.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7139/7469968472_f80822f1da_b.jpg

Worked out I need only two bends of 90˚ and around 115˚ or 65˚ depending on how you look at it!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8006/7469965542_f5709fbc77_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8019/7469964632_8954d482af_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8163/7469967116_fd7363c11a_b.jpg

Exhaust seems well made too, and it bloody should be at the price!

[ozzy1]

Just one thing i would check is the end of the silencer relative to the rear wheelarch as the exhaust end is not a 90' it obviously extends further back.There was a measurement posted i think by HandyAndy with a measurement from the wheel centre to the outer of the wheelarch.

[skov]

Fook me, I know you said it was big... :eek: :D

[CTWV50]

Just one thing i would check is the end of the silencer relative to the rear wheelarch as the exhaust end is not a 90' it obviously extends further back.There was a measurement posted i think by HandyAndy with a measurement from the wheel centre to the outer of the wheelarch.

Yes I have measured it but may move it forward anyway for ease of passenger entry.

Fook me, I know you said it was big... :eek: :D

Haha I know but it was only £12 more than the 5" one. And who wouldn't pay £12 for an extra couple of inches, especially in girth!!!:D

[CTWV50]

It's a straight through pipe so completely unrestricted flow of gasses down a 2.25" bore pipe for my little 1.6 should give it a throaty rumble. lol

Today I got a few hours in the garage so I removed the collector lambda bung by making myself a 23mm spanner from a 13/16th of an inch spanner. Never met a 23mm nut before!

And then removed the heat shield to discover two shield mounting brackets had cracked during removal. We'll we all new that would happen. And then noticed some cracking in one of the tubes near the collector. So this was a good excuse to get the welder out and repair the crack, beef up the rest of the collector weld, weld the pipes together higher up to add strength and remove the rest of the shield brackets.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8143/7474954708_0a9060dde4_b.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7257/7474953282_7531eafe07_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8157/7474950048_f3008401b2_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

I remember reading something about this over a year ago so i decided to keep the heater matrix and use it as a radiator. Don't know how effective it will be but I suppose if this is a problem and we are all using a a smaller radiator than the standard car and binning the heater matrixes some sort of reroute will be required.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7246/7478001146_1397ef0627_b.jpg

[Johno]

Hi chris hows things?
Going to be doing my cooling system soon and as upto yet not really researched it. If the heater matrix is going to help would it be better near a cool airflow source?
So is there anything you can't find a use for...LOL:D

ps... Simon had the samething on his exhaust manifold (had black soot on the outside of the 4 into 1 branch) not a good thing but at least you found it.:eek:

Excellent job Chris........

Johno

[CTWV50]

Hi chris hows things?
Going to be doing my cooling system soon and as upto yet not really researched it. If the heater matrix is going to help would it be better near a cool airflow source?
So is there anything you can't find a use for...LOL

ps... Simon had the samething on his exhaust manifold (had black soot on the outside of the 4 into 1 branch) not a good thing but at least you found it.

Excellent job Chris........

Johno

Hi John,

Not really getting too many hours in the garage but a 90 degree silicone hose and two straight connectors turned up today so I'll be updating with images probably end of this week.

Yeah the matrix is not in the best location but it's the thought that counts! :D

I have been distract of late by my mountain bike, been spending a few quid on that and the wife's comfort mtb. Going on holiday soon to Wales and need the bikes up to scratch.:)

Yes the exhaust I think will be taking a bit more strain so a bit of extra welding can't hurt. Just think 18 months ago I'd have chucked it and bought a new one BUT NOW I can fix exhausts. :cool: I love welding it opens so many possibilities to a skin-flint like myself!:D

[CTWV50]

Been a while thought I better make a post, keep the momentum. Been busy upgrading my mountain bike and ended up building nearly a new one!:rolleyes:

And then upgrading/ fixing the rest of the families bikes for the summer now it's finally arrived!:o

Here's my Speedo drive adapter from Ozzy1 all the way from Oz! Thanks Steve.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8282/7589105192_105d8481b8_b.jpg

And here's some not great images of my airbox setup....

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8166/7522131386_5fc441e1e0_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8282/7522132600_545cbf8cb7_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8292/7522130134_a317c60b55_b.jpg

I've cut down and modified the original plastic pipe, keeping the expansion chamber and idle pipes

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8163/7522129002_8da0004c37_b.jpg

Heed to brace some of this stuff when the engine comes out.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7275/7522127912_4caf5119c1_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7123/7522126890_69fa964213_b.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8281/7522125582_a623957260_b.jpg

I did laugh out loud when the original airbox snorkel magically fitted, with a little modification, to get a good blast of cold air from higher up at the front of the radiator. Pure luck!

Need to get back out there and finish this off, been 2 weeks now with no progress.

[skov]

Nice one Chris.
I gave up trying to fit that bl00dy massive airbox in!

[CTWV50]

Nice one Chris.
I gave up trying to fit that bl00dy massive airbox in!

I nearly did as well, a proper little puzzle.:)

[Johno]

A wee bit of a tight fit there Chris..:eek:
I didn't even attempt to try and fit that lot as I thought it was not possible. Once again Chris you are the exception....:D
So doing away with a lot of the black plastic is good or bad for the engine? Like whats the "Dynamic chamber" for?

Is that speedo cable drive still from a Toyota, looks like you will still need to trim the PPF bracket to get it pointing in the right direction.

Good job once again,,,,Johno:)

[skov]

So doing away with a lot of the black plastic is good or bad for the engine? Like whats the "Dynamic chamber" for?


I can only imagine it's a bad thing! I can't help thinking the clever guys at Mazda knew what they were doing when they designed it.
and I've got a sneaking suspicion we'll find out the resonant chamber thingy was there to iron out a massive flat spot in the midrange!

[alga]

Or they might have done that to reduce intake noise.

[CTWV50]

Don't really know why it's there, was thinking of leaving it out but as I needed the plastic housing for the idle air I decided as there was space to put it back in. I was thinking it was there to stop the MAF housing plate from fluttering but that might be a load of bollox. :shrug:

The adapter from Ozzy1, (Steve) which has no part numbers should allow me to not have to modify the gearbox, but it will go up rather than down which is probably more useful due to ground clearance etc.

I'll post a pic later but flickr's down at the mo'.

[CTWV50]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8152/7649375168_432794ffd7_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

So came out of hibernation early yesterday afternoon. Cleared out the garage rolled the car out and finished the steering column. Managed to get a straight run from column to rack without any clearance issues.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8225/8491008401_0b4fd76a19.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8098/8491008003_0f1feb6ec5.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8101/8492109156_7896900ba3.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8514/8491007299_0f649e9460.jpg

[CTWV50]

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8492122050_12764540cc.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8238/8492120900_7a7258ce5e.jpg

[ayjay]

I am not sure a straight run from column to rack is a good thing. I think its a safety issue:confused:

[CTWV50]

I am not sure a straight run from column to rack is a good thing. I think its a safety issue:confused:

Yes I thought that, but as I understand it if your using a modern column and it has safety features like being collapsable then that's fine. Quite clearly you don't want a solid rod of steel pointing at your bollocks so I've used 1mm walled steel tube and left a gap inside the tube between the upper mx5 shaft and lower escort shaft so it will hopefully buckle under impact.

I hope the above sounds sensible unless someone know otherwise, please let me know.

If you don't have a saftey column then the SVA want to see an indirect linkage of 3 or more UJs I think.

[Dualist]

Quite clearly you don't want a solid rod of steel pointing at your bollocks so I've used 1mm walled steel tube and left a gap inside the tube between the upper mx5 shaft and lower escort shaft so it will hopefully buckle under impact.

I would still put another UJ in there if it was pointing at my nuts, 1mm tube still hurts especially if it's traveling in a straight line. Looking good though and glad to see you got back to work on it.

[Johno]

Hi Chris,
Good to see you're back at it:) :)
I look forward to seeing more photos soon.

[CTWV50]

Cheers guys. I'm pretty sure my plums are safe! :-)

[CTWV50]

I've been quite busy of late. check out my new flickr photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/93882345@N04/). I've decided to make some headway towards starting the engine so unfortunately this means I have to finish some of the jobs I've started. :D

So I've sorted the cooling system with mostly new pipes but still need to get a plug for the rads original coolant temp sensor hole. Other than that it's just a few jubilee clips and a metal hose support away from testing.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8235/8538405923_db7fc41803.jpg

Also made headway towards a usable tank. Managed to rotate the sender unit with a neat little triangular bracket made from some galvanised steel from the garage door. And bent the sender float wire so it sit neatly just above the fuel pump. But when this tank says empty it definitely is empty!! No guesswork involved, ok there will be about a litre in the sump but that's it! I've then cut the metal plates from the top of the mazda's fuel tank, cleaned them all up and used J B Weld to fix and seal them to the top of the tank. I have also used the mx5 breather system as it seemed silly not to, but I don't think I'll be using the carbon can as it's just more plumbing for no real gain other than EU emission regulations I think.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8538849455_8bb87f903b.jpg

Hope to get the tank attached to the car this weekend and also finish the cooling bits and bobs. Might have to start/finish that gearbox mount I've been putting off because I can't make up my mind what to do, Hmmm!:rolleyes:

[Johno]

I've been quite busy of late. check out my new flickr photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/93882345@N04/). I've decided to make some headway towards starting the engine so unfortunately this means I have to finish some of the jobs I've started. :D

So I've sorted the cooling system with mostly new pipes but still need to get a plug for the rads original coolant temp sensor hole. Other than that it's just a few jubilee clips and a metal hose support away from testing.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8235/8538405923_db7fc41803.jpg

Also made headway towards a usable tank. Managed to rotate the sender unit with a neat little triangular bracket made from some galvanised steel from the garage door. And bent the sender float wire so it sit neatly just above the fuel pump. But when this tank says empty it definitely is empty!! No guesswork involved, ok there will be about a litre in the sump but that's it! I've then cut the metal plates from the top of the mazda's fuel tank, cleaned them all up and used J B Weld to fix and seal them to the top of the tank. I have also used the mx5 breather system as it seemed silly not to, but I don't think I'll be using the carbon can as it's just more plumbing for no real gain other than EU emission regulations I think.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8538849455_8bb87f903b.jpg

Hope to get the tank attached to the car this weekend and also finish the cooling bits and bobs. Might have to start/finish that gearbox mount I've been putting off because I can't make up my mind what to do, Hmmm!:rolleyes:

Hi Chris looking good.

The MX5 breather, does it vent and allow air in when the tank is being emptied??
I was looking to use one of those £30 parts from CBS but if the MX5's works both ways I may use that as I still have my donor.

[CTWV50]

It must do I guess. :)

[CTWV50]

Bit more done! Made a plug for the rad out of an old brass mk2 golf mechanical injector insert, a 22mm copper pipe blank and plumbers lead solder with silicone sealant used to fit it.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8092/8559825956_e919640426.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8374/8559826370_99432a74e8.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8375/8559827526_6cb60a3dd4.jpg

[CTWV50]

Tank is fitted and plumbed in and filter location sorted.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8530/8558715379_1dd5a7aa05.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8389/8559823452_781f6fed00.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8518/8559825100_622e875d5f.jpg

[alga]

Bit more done! Made a plug for the rad out of an old brass mk2 golf mechanical injector insert, a 22mm copper pipe blank and plumbers lead solder with silicone sealant used to fit it.


I just got a Golf rad thermal switch which is supposed to go in that hole, it was just about £4 or so. As a bonus I got an extra thermal switch I can use :-)

[Johno]

Hi Chris..:)
I must say all your plumbing looks very neat and tidy there...:cool:

[CTWV50]

I just got a Golf rad thermal switch which is supposed to go in that hole, it was just about £4 or so. As a bonus I got an extra thermal switch I can use :-)

Couldn't find one over here for less than £13 so I made one.:)

Hi Chris..:)
I must say all your plumbing looks very neat and tidy there...:cool:

Cheers John you were my inspiration, thanks for all those pipe clips skov. :cool:

All plumbed in now.

Air system................check
Fuel system................check (when I get hold of 8x fuel clips)
Exhaust system................check (kind of, it's that comedy exhaust I made)
Cooling system................check

Even connected an engine earth last night.

Still got to come up with a gearbox mount and then it's wiring. I want to fit the battery in the back above the diff like the mx5. Can anyone tell me if the IVA manual mentions fuel tank proximity for the battery??

Edit: I can't find anything!

[skov]

thanks for all those pipe clips skov. :cool:


No worries Chris, I see you've made good use of them, all looking very neat :cool:

Just tried to reply to your PM, but your inbox is full :rolleyes:
The answer is yes though - fuel goes into the front of the fuel rail and comes out of the back where the regulator is.

[CTWV50]

No worries Chris, I see you've made good use of them, all looking very neat :cool:

Just tried to reply to your PM, but your inbox is full :rolleyes:
The answer is yes though - fuel goes into the front of the fuel rail and comes out of the back where the regulator is.

Cheers John.:D

[CTWV50]

Haha! Been working on the wiring!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmH8dBwU3C8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4ORH3Ee8fg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVDkHgjw3d0

All works, tappets settled down after it warmed up, fan kicked in after 10 minutes and sorted the fast idle, it was the carbon canister air supply!

Very pleased chuffed it works! Loom just needs shortening and everything positioning.

[thailoz]

Good job well done

That exhaust sounds really sporty :)

[skov]

Nice one Chris :D

[twinturbo]

Seems it's the time of year for engine firing....

Ran mine a couple of weeks back just to check it still did run.

Your all making me want to get stuck in a again. Think I will tidy up abit today

TT

[CTWV50]

Thanks people. Now I need to sit down and make a new, longer list! Shouldn't the lists be getting shorter?? :eek:

Exhaust is just a temporary item, does sound good though! Barks almost! :D

[K4KEV]

yep ...the sound of that exhaust is really nice and raspy Chris .....seems like we are all having first engine starts, keep the good work up mate;)

[CTWV50]

It does Kevin! :) Good job on yours too.

[CTWV50]

Well just come in from the garage after starting the job of chopping up the loom and soldering it all back together again. The chopping happen on Saturday I think or Friday and now the soldering of a much shorter loom with no joint connectors at all has finished, and f*** me it still starts, how surprised was I? I did weld a loose lighting wire to the chassis by accident at first which was a bit scary but yep started first time! Yet to do an led diagnostic on it yet but WOW. Must of spent 40+ hours in the garage over the last 4 days, thanks to the long weekend, lots of late nights and every spare hour out there with 2x 1kw heaters but worth it now. Couldn't sleep last night as I was having paranoid wiring dreams! And I have a cold!!:D :mad:

[CTWV50]

Loom just needs shortening and everything positioning.

JUST?? PFFFFT!!!!!!!!

[skov]

Well done Chris!

You did better than I did - I managed to swap two wires over when I shortened mine, and it took me chuffing ages to figure out why and get it running again!

[CTWV50]

Cheers John, I couldn't quiet believe it, but it gets better! Been out the garage this morning and put together an led kit using an old immobiliser and no fault codes!! Big grin on my face!! Had to do it 4x as I again couldn't quiet believe it!

[Stot]

Any chance of some photos showing fuse box location and where youre running your cables?

Cheers
Stot

[CTWV50]

Here you are stot.

Wire for rad and maf run down the engine with the other engine wires.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8397/8619304868_ff35046d4f_b.jpg

All engine wires come together at the back of the engine before a few of them go to the main engine earth point and the fuse/relay box.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/8618197879_5a8baa7b6e_b.jpg

The rest of the wires, of which there are a lot, go down the side of the gearbox before coming up behind the imaginary dash.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8108/8619305662_a100c521b9_b.jpg

They then go to the instrument cluster, ECU, Ignition module, condenser thingy, diagnostic port, fuel pump relay, ignition barrel and, for now, eval valve thingy. They then go off to the back of the car for the tank and battery although I may move the battery to the engine compartment if I can. The loose wires are for the lighting system and will get waterproof connectors when they arrive.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8618198683_0ac381e5f8_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

Keeping all the wires for the engine etc to the center of the car, for me, was the simplest and easiest solution, I've removed every single jointing connection and every wire joint is soldered and heatshrinked, works great and was very cheap to do but if I do get a fault I would't want to be the one to try and find the fault. Some of the locations may change a small amount but not much. All the wiring pipes are from the MX5 saving more pennies!:D

[Stot]

Keeping all the wires for the engine etc to the center of the car, for me, was the simplest and easiest solution, I've removed every single jointing connection and every wire joint is soldered and heatshrinked, works great and was very cheap to do but if I do get a fault I would't want to be the one to try and find the fault. Some of the locations may change a small amount but not much. All the wiring pipes are from the MX5 saving more pennies!:D

Great stuff thanks! :cool:

Cheers
Stot

[Johno]

Keeping all the wires for the engine etc to the center of the car, for me, was the simplest and easiest solution, I've removed every single jointing connection and every wire joint is soldered and heatshrinked, works great and was very cheap to do but if I do get a fault I would't want to be the one to try and find the fault. Some of the locations may change a small amount but not much. All the wiring pipes are from the MX5 saving more pennies!:D

Well done Chris...
It seems nearly everybody is working on something electrical just lately and accomplishing a major mile stone with their build.:)
Glad to hear you your car is running fine and I bet you are well chuffed....:D

[CTWV50]

Cheers Johno,

Been very busy lately. And it only bleedin' well moves under it's own power1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDTQ2vjzJ-s

Picked up a 90˚and 70˚ bend in 304 52mm stainless steel and a flange from a local exhaust maker. Cost £35, bargain.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8538/8630163033_7d064f4189_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8532/8631271864_0b763ba1f4_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8125/8631272392_cd05912157_c.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MKd2ajD2l0

[CTWV50]

Got sick of trying to fit the mx5 seats and really lost interest in them so saved up for two of these, as modelled by my 5 year old. I fit in nice and snug, just! Sit very low now with my lowered floor which I like a lot might even ned to trim down the areo screen!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8248/8637395652_bbfd6f7eb6_c.jpg

[CTWV50]

OK I bought ford escort track rod ends for my steering and they never seemed to sit snug. I ignored this issue for over a year as the car wasn't moving around much and though once tightened they would be fine. I was wrong. They also seemed to be pinching over squashing the joint boot due to the angle of the mx5 steering arm. People have used mx5 track rod ends (TRE) and I think Nathan has done something with another trackrod end fitted from the top rather than the bottom. But after some measuring I realised the taper was correct for the escort TRE it was just that the hole was too deep making the hole too big at the bottom. The depth of the hole was 20mm, the length of the taper on the escort TRE was around 14-15mm. So I set about modifying the track rod end masking exactly the area that needed removing and giving it a light dust of spray paint so it was very obvious.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8538/8637396016_09d3aa069a_c.jpg

This has worked extremely well and you can see from the image that Mazda seemed to have left more casting than is necessary for some reason. If anyone is reading this and thinks I'm an expert I certainly am not. I'm taking a calculated risk if you think this solution may be for you then be aware you're doing it at your own risk. There are probably better solutions but I'm happy and confident with this one. I've yet to do the other side, I'll take more pictures to show better detail.

[CTWV50]

After browsing around in halfords I spotted a dinky little battery that seemed a good option for my build to get the battery in the engine bay rather than the boot but it was £70. After some research I found this. (H)181x(W)127x(L)187

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8532/8636289747_1da635fef5_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8522/8637396810_2c79a9b237_c.jpg

It's tiny and only 200amps CCA but it starts the car fine which is all I really need. It was £43 delivered from www.justcarbatteries.com

http://www.justcarbatteries.co.uk/index.php/gs-car-batteries/gs-traditional-range-car-batteries/gs-traditional-896-car-battery.html

[CTWV50]

OK I bought ford escort track rod ends for my steering and they never seemed to sit snug. I ignored this issue for over a year as the car wasn't moving around much and though once tightened they would be fine. I was wrong. They also seemed to be pinching over squashing the joint boot due to the angle of the mx5 steering arm. People have used mx5 track rod ends (TRE) and I think Nathan has done something with another trackrod end fitted from the top rather than the bottom. But after some measuring I realised the taper was correct for the escort TRE it was just that the hole was too deep making the hole too big at the bottom. The depth of the hole was 20mm, the length of the taper on the escort TRE was around 14-15mm. So I set about modifying the track rod end masking exactly the area that needed removing and giving it a light dust of spray paint so it was very obvious.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8538/8637396016_09d3aa069a_c.jpg

This has worked extremely well and you can see from the image that Mazda seemed to have left more casting than is necessary for some reason. If anyone is reading this and thinks I'm an expert I certainly am not. I'm taking a calculated risk if you think this solution may be for you then be aware you're doing it at your own risk. There are probably better solutions but I'm happy and confident with this one. I've yet to do the other side, I'll take more pictures to show better detail.

Actually while I was typing this I had a thought! :( Would the ball joint have any movement left in it at full suspension droop? The answer? NO! Using ford escort track rod ends is a VERY BAD IDEA! I bent my steering rack extensions testing this theory! A bloody lucky escape I think!:rolleyes:

[mark]

It's hard to tell by a photo but your exhaust silencer looks at least an inch if not more below the chassis, my bell housing is an inch below as per book and regularly gets fettled by speed bumps!

I have to drive over 3 whopping speed bumps to get down my road and as the back and front wheels are either side of the hump my silencer is mm away.

Maybe worth moving it up a touch if its not too much trouble to save it getting scuffed up.

[Davidbolam]

Well done. The exhaust looks really nice. Does it sound any louder in real life? I am hoping mine will frighten the odd granny at bus stops lol.

I am going to change over my track rod ends to mx5 ones and buy the extension from phil at talon or gilham said he would add them to his shop as well.

Keep posting the pictures and videos its motivating me!

David

[Johno]

Hi all,
I didn't realise some people were using a different steering track rod end to that of the MX5, is this because of the extensions you already bought?

One problem you now might encounter is the steering arm fouling the lower wishbone on full lock if using the Saturn design wishbones.
Skov and myself have both had the same problem regarding this.
I remember Nathan saying he had no problem regarding this and perhaps he used non Mazda parts as well.
Just a thought.

[PorkChop]

Hi all,
I didn't realise some people were using a different steering track rod end to that of the MX5, is this because of the extensions you already bought?

One problem you now might encounter is the steering arm fouling the lower wishbone on full lock if using the Saturn design wishbones.
Skov and myself have both had the same problem regarding this.
I remember Nathan saying he had no problem regarding this and perhaps he used non Mazda parts as well.
Just a thought.

Nathan used Ford TREs but tapered the MX5 upright to take the TREs from the top (not the bottom as Mazda OEM).

I reckon mark 2 MX5 uprights will solve at least part of the fouling issue with the SSC design since the TRE fitting is 7mm higher than the mark 1 upright. This is how Keith Tanner has done it after trying to get the mark 1 upright to work. Or Phil's front wishbone design would also allow you to use the mark 1 uprights.

[CTWV50]

Spud made me the bottom wishbones and sold me all the steering gear before everyone realised it didn't work! I thought this was just a minor clearance issue not a new wishbone or major failure issue! Little bit annoyed that I was sold stuff that just doesn't work, it's not as though it was hard to figure out that it wouldn't work. :mad:

Put me on a bit of a downer but I think I'll just order some mx5 rod ends and speak to phil about extensions.

Exhaust looks low but it's not supported properly yet.

Thanks David, I've not done anything on my car for about 8 months but something made me get in the garage about 6 weeks ago and I've been at it ever since. Made some good progress but might take a bit of a breather now and just tackle some little jobs before stripping it down to finish off the chassis and paint it. Glad the progress has spurred you on with your build.:D

[CTWV50]

Does it sound any louder in real life? I am hoping mine will frighten the odd granny at bus stops lol.

Yes the exhaust is a quiet burble on idle but sounds much throatier when giving it some. iPhone made it sound really tame and farty somehow!:)

[PorkChop]

Spud made me the bottom wishbones and sold me all the steering gear before everyone realised it didn't work! I thought this was just a minor clearance issue not a new wishbone or major failure issue! Little bit annoyed that I was sold stuff that just doesn't work, it's not as though it was hard to figure out that it wouldn't work. :mad:


From what I've seen from the photos that Johno has taken of the problem, it is at a fair amount of lock (almost full) and at full droop.

[Davidbolam]

Spud made me the bottom wishbones and sold me all the steering gear before everyone realised it didn't work! I thought this was just a minor clearance issue not a new wishbone or major failure issue! Little bit annoyed that I was sold stuff that just doesn't work, it's not as though it was hard to figure out that it wouldn't work. :mad:

Put me on a bit of a downer but I think I'll just order some mx5 rod ends and speak to phil about extensions.

Exhaust looks low but it's not supported properly yet.

Thanks David, I've not done anything on my car for about 8 months but something made me get in the garage about 6 weeks ago and I've been at it ever since. Made some good progress but might take a bit of a breather now and just tackle some little jobs before stripping it down to finish off the chassis and paint it. Glad the progress has spurred you on with your build.:D

If you look at skov's build and mine we have both used limiters in the rack. The only issue with clearance is if you use lots of lock.

If you use limiters ( B&q) then it should be ok with mx5 ends.

[CTWV50]

From what I've seen from the photos that Johno has taken of the problem, it is at a fair amount of lock (almost full) and at full droop.

Ok thanks for that. I'm sure it will be fine, doesn't look like there's any simple solution to the front hub issue. But less steering lock seems a good compromise.

[PorkChop]

Ok thanks for that. I'm sure it will be fine, doesn't look like there's any simple solution to the front hub issue. But less steering lock seems a good compromise.

It might be worth fitting the headlights and the front cycle wings and see if the rack needs limiting anyway for this reason. You may kill 2 birds with 1 stone, so to speak.

[Johno]

From what I've seen from the photos that Johno has taken of the problem, it is at a fair amount of lock (almost full) and at full droop.

That's correct Dave,:)
At full lock with full droop on the suspension the rack extension just fouls the wishbone. I did consider skimming down the extension to get the clearance.
In the end I opted for a redesigned wishbone to get over the problem (had some tube spare).:eek:

[CTWV50]

So just to update, handbrake cable mounts, brake hose mounts front and rear, all seat belt mounts, lowered passenger floor, exhaust mount, battery located and cable terminals, headlight mounts and sump-guard mounts all done! Running out of things to weld on to the chassis!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8386/8668974211_e4d951d5a6_b.jpg

I've used mx3 rear hoses on the front and standard mx5 rears on the rear. Bit of extra work but they were only £11 each and £16 for the right rear which includes a t-splitter. Bargain!:)

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8540/8668968781_1fe8518d96_b.jpg

[CTWV50]

Oh gearbox mount finally done at last!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8119/8670060568_971a89746f_b.jpg


Just a section of 100x50mm box shaped slightly to allow easy access to the nuts and bolts with holes drilled in the right place and studs welded in again for easy locating. the actual mount is from a mini a'la skov!

Darth Vader approves!

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8544/8670064352_4638b7e1b3_b.jpg

exhaust mount

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8108/8670062692_c63b95e040_b.jpg

[skov]

Someone's been busy :D
Looking good Chris. I'm liking the colour of your nose cone, is it staying that colour?

[CTWV50]

It is a nice colour but wings, scuttle and aero thing are all black so it'll look a bit odd. Not sure what I'm going to do to be honest, in fact this morning I was thinking matt black with two white stripes! I can manage that myself with spray cans and some thick masking tape! :D

Ideally I want it to be a deep red with white stripes. How acheivable that is I don't know! Like this.....

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/14107808834_7082cc9e8f_n.jpg

Is yours going to be black John?

[skov]

Yeah, it might look a bit daft if everything else is a different colour :)
That red and white scheme does look nice, might have to think about stealing that idea :D

I can't make my mind up what colour to go for, so for now I'm just going to rattle can the bonnet black to match the rest of the bodywork.
I'll worry about giving it a proper paint job and making it look nice at a later date, maybe over the winter.

[CTWV50]

Yeah, it might look a bit daft if everything else is a different colour :)
That red and white scheme does look nice, might have to think about stealing that idea :D


Hey gerroff!! It's mine!:D

[CTWV50]

MX5 rack extensions from Phil at talonmotorsport turned up today and I have to say the look excellently made. Thanks Phil. Got my Prop off for retubing and balancing at a local firm (£60) and just waiting on my rollbar to arrive hopefully this week after finally finding a firm to make it out of CDS without charging an arm and a leg, £85 delivered! :D

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8115/8694523679_ec7033fa5d_b.jpg


Hopefully when I put the supports in it will look like this...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8253/8695646860_9c0beab83a_b.jpg

Trying to save up for some Team Dynamics 1.2 race pro wheels in 13" x 7" but it's not easy when ebay is the only funding source atm.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/8694526631_aa3ba01cb9.jpg

[CTWV50]

Wheels Ordered! Phew!:cool: Paying for CDS rollbar supports and cross members in the morning.:) Money well spent!

[CTWV50]

Regarding the wheels I'd did some research and measuring and I've ordered 7'' wide 13" wheels with 205 60 rear and 185 60 front ET15 all round. I thought about spacers and did try some cheap ones but I really didn't have much confidence in them. Front might cause more bump steer but we shall see.

[Talonmotorsport]

Hope this is not the case as I believe the 13" wheels give the best handling for a 7 type car.
I know most ppl go for the 15" option as the tyre choice is more popular...

I don't think wheel and tyre size has any thing to do with tyre choice with most builds as you need 15" rims on Sierra builds to clear the bolt heads on the lower mounts of the fabricated uprights. You can use 14" or even 13" rims if you get creative with the mounting plates and brake sizes but then it makes every thing more complicated.

[CTWV50]

MX-5 1.6 brakes and balljoints can clear 13" wheels as I have read on mx5 car forums once the heatshield is removed but I measured and checked for haynes roadster use also. 1.8 brakes need modification to clear, I have read.

[robo]

Its great news that 13`s fit Chris, all the decent track day slicks come in 13`s:cool:

Bob.

[Davidbolam]

Its great news that 13`s fit Chris, all the decent track day slicks come in 13`s:cool:

Bob.

I may choose to go down the 13 route eventually!

Good news

David

[CTWV50]

Before the end of June I should have them on the car. :D I'll do the rack stops at that point, but then I have to take it all to bits to finish the chassis and pedal box and paint the bleeding thing. Not looking forward to that job at all. :(